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post #2161 of 2179 Old 12-01-2014, 05:20 PM
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Originally Posted by TW2005 View Post
ModuslinkPTS do board level repair

You will have to check your version sticker. http://www.moduslinkptstvboards.com/...pa5335&x=0&y=0

Think about the new screw set for both the SC and SS boards as it's known they work loose and poor earthing then causes arcing and blows the board. I'd inspect both the chassis mount points for burning and the board pads, ensure they are clean for good contact.

Good Idea to check SD/SU boards for shorts. Do you know for sure SC board is shorted?

http://www.shopjimmy.com/panasonic-x...-screw-kit.htm
Thanks for the reply. I am not positive that the SC board is shorted. I will check for shorts and take a look at the chassis mount points and board pads. I see it costs about $200 for the board repair kit, plus the time and effort it takes to send it in. I would also be running of the risk of messing something up. Any insight into how successful the repair kits are for amateurs? It makes me a little nervous.
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post #2162 of 2179 Old 12-02-2014, 01:10 AM
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Originally Posted by DaveyK View Post
Thanks for the reply. I am not positive that the SC board is shorted. I will check for shorts and take a look at the chassis mount points and board pads. I see it costs about $200 for the board repair kit, plus the time and effort it takes to send it in. I would also be running of the risk of messing something up. Any insight into how successful the repair kits are for amateurs? It makes me a little nervous.
$200 for repair kit? where are you looking? Modus repair/return is less than that
probably not a beginner job, you'd need good soldering skills and experience. Sending in for repair would be the easiest option and cheaper
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post #2163 of 2179 Old 12-04-2014, 07:23 PM
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I have a 2009 Panasonic TC-P65S1.

I put it out to pasture about 9 months ago out of frustration, and finally got the gumption to try and figure out what was wrong with it again tonight. I've been researching for the past few hours.

Previously, the TV would shut down and the LED would blink 8 times. This would occur after the TV was on and displaying an image for between 5 mins and 2 hours. Tonight I thought that I would try to duplicate the problem so that I would have more information before posting, so I removed the rear panel to have a quick look around and then plugged it in and fired it up. Now I am getting an immediate shut down and the LED is blinking 9 times.

I guess that I may have disturbed something while removing the rear panel. The only other possible issues that are immediately obvious to me is that the three large 220v, 1200uf caps on the power supply board appear to be slightly swollen on top. This is the first time that I have removed the rear panel.

Does anyone have any possible suggestions? Do you think that the three bulging (failing) caps could be causing both of my error codes?

Thanks
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post #2164 of 2179 Old 12-07-2014, 05:15 PM
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Originally Posted by TW2005 View Post
L6FAYYYH0094 , FAN UNIT(80MM-T25), for a TC-P50VT20, should be the same for a VT25

looks like on backorder.
Thank you! I found one new on eBay.

Problem is intermittent. For now looks like it might be a loose connector but will order fan anyway. This has been a tough one to diagnose.
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post #2165 of 2179 Unread 12-22-2014, 11:31 AM
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St60

1 year and 5 month old 60 inch ST60 has 7 blinking lights of death. Panasonic doesn't seem to be willing to cover any of the costs. Local repair company said I'd probably have to change all 3 boards (he hasn't taken a look yet) when I spoke with him over the phone. Said it would cost about $400-$500. I've read that many of you have had luck with moduslinkptstvboards.com. Is this a repair a novice can handle if I sent my boards in to moduslinkptstvboards.com to be repaired? Also, will this fix the issue for more than 1 year and 5 months?
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post #2166 of 2179 Unread 12-22-2014, 11:33 AM
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My 42PH9UK won't turn on anymore (no flashing light). If I unplug the power cable for a few hours then it'll turn on for a few seconds then off. I noticed that there's static noise coming from T410 on the TNPA3911 board. Anyone have this issues in the past and able to fixed it? Thanks.
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post #2167 of 2179 Unread 12-22-2014, 11:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grandehdtv View Post
1 year and 5 month old 60 inch ST60 has 7 blinking lights of death. Panasonic doesn't seem to be willing to cover any of the costs. Local repair company said I'd probably have to change all 3 boards (he hasn't taken a look yet) when I spoke with him over the phone. Said it would cost about $400-$500. I've read that many of you have had luck with moduslinkptstvboards.com. Is this a repair a novice can handle if I sent my boards in to moduslinkptstvboards.com to be repaired? Also, will this fix the issue for more than 1 year and 5 months?
step one would be to determine which boards. you can get all 3 from shopjimmy for about $150, could be available elsewhere cheaper and we're talking used/ salvaged from damaged in transit new TVs.

If you want to get out of this cheap, you'll have to do the work. swapping a SC board, pretty easy, the SD/SU boards. will be tricky and will need some finesse.

Also check out the mounting screws for the SC board,

How long? That's a how long is a piece of string question.

My 2010 did a SC board at 14 months(2500hrs) it's now added over 7000hrs and 2.5 years

If you want to take the back off and do some isolation tests I can tell you but for the SD ? SU boards unless you have a good multimeter and know how to use it you may struggle. they're only $30 each anyway
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post #2168 of 2179 Unread 12-22-2014, 12:01 PM
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St60

Quote:
Originally Posted by TW2005 View Post
step one would be to determine which boards. you can get all 3 from shopjimmy for about $150, could be available elsewhere cheaper and we're talking used/ salvaged from damaged in transit new TVs.

If you want to get out of this cheap, you'll have to do the work. swapping a SC board, pretty easy, the SD/SU boards. will be tricky and will need some finesse.

Also check out the mounting screws for the SC board,

How long? That's a how long is a piece of string question.

My 2010 did a SC board at 14 months(2500hrs) it's now added over 7000hrs and 2.5 years

If you want to take the back off and do some isolation tests I can tell you but for the SD ? SU boards unless you have a good multimeter and know how to use it you may struggle. they're only $30 each anyway

Thanks for the info TW2005. I'm up for trying to swap out all the boards if I can find them.

Does this look like what I need?
SC Board
http://www.shopjimmy.com/panasonic-t...u-sc-board.htm
SU Board
http://www.shopjimmy.com/panasonic-t...u-su-board.htm
SD Board
http://www.shopjimmy.com/panasonic-t...u-sd-board.htm
Screw set (how many screw sets do I need?)
http://www.shopjimmy.com/panasonic-x...-screw-kit.htm


Also, do I need an SS board? I saw a chart someplace that said 7 blinking lights may indicate an issue with SU, SD and SS boards.
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post #2169 of 2179 Unread 12-22-2014, 12:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grandehdtv View Post
Thanks for the info TW2005. I'm up for trying to swap out all the boards if I can find them.

Does this look like what I need?
SC Board
http://www.shopjimmy.com/panasonic-t...u-sc-board.htm
SU Board
http://www.shopjimmy.com/panasonic-t...u-su-board.htm
SD Board
http://www.shopjimmy.com/panasonic-t...u-sd-board.htm
Screw set (how many screw sets do I need?)
http://www.shopjimmy.com/panasonic-x...-screw-kit.htm


Also, do I need an SS board? I saw a chart someplace that said 7 blinking lights may indicate an issue with SU, SD and SS boards.
That should be correct but can't be sure these suffer from loose or incorrect screws(just a hunce) but I know 2011/12 models are and they changed what they had used to screw with no washer or spring washer.

I would take the back off, from the rear the SC is on the left, you have the SJ images to go by. on the Buffer boards(SD/SU) remove disconnect the 3 connectors that come from the SC(squeeze side tabs and gently wiggle out, can be in firm), then remove the 4 bolts that attach these to the SC board. they mount on large gnd plates, then locate on the SC , SC50, 2 pin white connector. Those pins need to be shorted together.

then turn the TV on and if it turns on with no blinks you have bad SD/SU boards(one or both)

If it still blinks then maybe just go with all 3 boards
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post #2170 of 2179 Unread 12-22-2014, 12:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TW2005 View Post
step one would be to determine which boards. you can get all 3 from shopjimmy for about $150, could be available elsewhere cheaper and we're talking used/ salvaged from damaged in transit new TVs.

If you want to get out of this cheap, you'll have to do the work. swapping a SC board, pretty easy, the SD/SU boards. will be tricky and will need some finesse.

Also check out the mounting screws for the SC board,

How long? That's a how long is a piece of string question.

My 2010 did a SC board at 14 months(2500hrs) it's now added over 7000hrs and 2.5 years

If you want to take the back off and do some isolation tests I can tell you but for the SD ? SU boards unless you have a good multimeter and know how to use it you may struggle. they're only $30 each anyway
Quote:
Originally Posted by TW2005 View Post
That should be correct but can't be sure these suffer from loose or incorrect screws(just a hunce) but I know 2011/12 models are and they changed what they had used to screw with no washer or spring washer.

I would take the back off, from the rear the SC is on the left, you have the SJ images to go by. on the Buffer boards(SD/SU) remove disconnect the 3 connectors that come from the SC(squeeze side tabs and gently wiggle out, can be in firm), then remove the 4 bolts that attach these to the SC board. they mount on large gnd plates, then locate on the SC , SC50, 2 pin white connector. Those pins need to be shorted together.

then turn the TV on and if it turns on with no blinks you have bad SD/SU boards(one or both)

If it still blinks then maybe just go with all 3 boards
I'll give it a shot. Thanks again!
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post #2171 of 2179 Unread 12-22-2014, 12:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TW2005 View Post
That should be correct but can't be sure these suffer from loose or incorrect screws(just a hunce) but I know 2011/12 models are and they changed what they had used to screw with no washer or spring washer.

I would take the back off, from the rear the SC is on the left, you have the SJ images to go by. on the Buffer boards(SD/SU) remove disconnect the 3 connectors that come from the SC(squeeze side tabs and gently wiggle out, can be in firm), then remove the 4 bolts that attach these to the SC board. they mount on large gnd plates, then locate on the SC , SC50, 2 pin white connector. Those pins need to be shorted together.

then turn the TV on and if it turns on with no blinks you have bad SD/SU boards(one or both)

If it still blinks then maybe just go with all 3 boards
just found this note in a tech guide.

Note: Make sure there’re
not loose screws on the
SN/SC, SU, and SD boards.

may be worth you downloading and have a read , especially slide 77 on

Note this covers a range of models and there are discrete differences in the flowcharts.

http://elektrotanya.com/panasonic_tc.../download.html
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post #2172 of 2179 Unread 12-22-2014, 05:56 PM
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By the way: does anybody know what that tiny capacitor actually *does* on the MC-201 board? Is it just a filter? And why does the set work when it is removed?? Has it failed internally in a 'flow-through' state, allowing current through when it's not supposed to???
I've been running without capacitors for 7 months:

Good read about it here:

blog.bronislavrobenek.com/post/47303789528/panasonic-plasma-red-blinks-of-death-repair
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post #2173 of 2179 Unread Yesterday, 08:25 AM
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Our trusty excellent picture Panny GT30 finally gave out a few days ago showing the "7 Blinking Red Lights of Death". I did a lot of searching and reading and even to the point of biting the bullet and checking on replacement boards though ShopJimmy. Unfortunately every board for the Pannasonic GT30 series was Sold Out with no word on when stock is coming. I said screw this for now and the wife gave the green light to get another set. I've settled on a Sony Projector and screen from Screen Innovations. I'll hold on to the set for now and may check again down the road. The set really did provide a heck-of-a-picture.


Kenny j - Nashville TN
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post #2174 of 2179 Unread Yesterday, 01:19 PM
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Originally Posted by DR.DTS View Post
Our trusty excellent picture Panny GT30 finally gave out a few days ago showing the "7 Blinking Red Lights of Death". I did a lot of searching and reading and even to the point of biting the bullet and checking on replacement boards though ShopJimmy. Unfortunately every board for the Pannasonic GT30 series was Sold Out with no word on when stock is coming. I said screw this for now and the wife gave the green light to get another set. I've settled on a Sony Projector and screen from Screen Innovations. I'll hold on to the set for now and may check again down the road. The set really did provide a heck-of-a-picture.


Kenny j - Nashville TN
Fault find it, determine if just the Sc board board or if SD/Su boards are also bad. SC board can be repaired at component level, replace the screw set for the boards with ones that have washers and spring washers.

If you take it apart, pay close attention for loose screws especially the SC board and evidence of poor earth / arcing at the grounding points.

Model of TV would have been handy
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post #2175 of 2179 Unread Yesterday, 06:49 PM
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I've been running without capacitors for 7 months:

Good read about it here:

blog.bronislavrobenek.com/post/47303789528/panasonic-plasma-red-blinks-of-death-repair
Thanks for that link. Mine has been running about 2.5 months now with the capacitor removed on MC201 (I think it was). I left the other MC301 board alone (for now). If it becomes a problem later, I'll remove it later.

Makes me a little leery, though, when they say this capacitor filters/blocks potentially harmful voltage. So a spike comes through and what - some other component blows up?

I bought the replacement cap, but once it was working again with the cap removed I decided to leave well enough alone. Besides, it didn't appear that I was going to be able to solder the new cap in there. WAY TOO TINY. I thought, for sure, I'd just end up bridging the two solder points (they're so close together).
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post #2176 of 2179 Unread Today, 06:34 AM
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I bought the replacement cap, but once it was working again with the cap removed I decided to leave well enough alone. Besides, it didn't appear that I was going to be able to solder the new cap in there. WAY TOO TINY. I thought, for sure, I'd just end up bridging the two solder points (they're so close together).
I was not entirely truthful I attempted the soldering - miserably failed on the first and actually succeeded on the second. I am very rusty but managed to do it with solder paste, cheap magnifier and ebay solder station. So I'm running with one capacitor... It was tricky and I wasn't keen to remove the sub boards... Can't remember which one I changed though...

Works though.. and I enjoy the picture quality....
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Panasonic Plasma ZT60 Turns Off and On After 2 Hours

Hi there, this place seems to be the definitive resource for Panasonic Plasma TV problems and I unfortunately have another to contribute to this long list. I hope it's maybe some crazy option that's secreted away in the menu, although I've looked pretty thoroughly.

Essentially, the problem is very simple. I haven't timed it to the minute, but the TV turns off about every 2 hours, and then turns itself back on. I don't have to hit the power button or anything, it just does it by itself, the turning back on part I mean.

My first google search yielded a FAQ on Panasonic's website that said to check in the Menu, Setup | Other Settings | Auto Standby and turn it off; but I don't have the option. My software version is 2.873 and it's supposedly the latest version. I have a funny feeling that when I updated recently, this is what did it. Any way to roll back a firmware upgrade on this set? Anyone have any ideas they'd be willing to share? Thanks in advance.
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post #2178 of 2179 Unread Today, 03:55 PM
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Also want to quickly mentioned that I thought maybe it was an electrical grounding issue, so I unplugged it from the wall and took one of my computer UPS' (Uninterruptible Power Supply), an APC SMT1500, and plugged it directly into that, and it still does it...
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post #2179 of 2179 Unread Today, 04:06 PM
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Also want to quickly mentioned that I thought maybe it was an electrical grounding issue, so I unplugged it from the wall and took one of my computer UPS' (Uninterruptible Power Supply), an APC SMT1500, and plugged it directly into that, and it still does it...
I'd be contacting panasonic if you think it's firmware related. This TV must be close to being in warranty but everything I've read of late is panasonic don't seem to care anymore. In my country they'd have to fix it being so young. If no joy may be time to start looking for a used / salvaged A board from another TV. I have read of something similar in another model and a new A board solved the issue.
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