Master thread for Panasonic plasma not turning on - Page 75 - AVS | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #2221 of 2243 Old 02-26-2015, 02:35 PM
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Guys, I'm frustrated. Apparently I need a new SC board in my Panasonic 50ST30. It's going to cost a total of $320 to get fixed...not as bad as I thought but still not cheap. Since it seems to be a common problem, is there a chance of getting it replaced for free? I already paid the $99 diags fee (that goes toward the repair).
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post #2222 of 2243 Old 02-26-2015, 03:09 PM
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Originally Posted by linkgx1 View Post
Guys, I'm frustrated. Apparently I need a new SC board in my Panasonic 50ST30. It's going to cost a total of $320 to get fixed...not as bad as I thought but still not cheap. Since it seems to be a common problem, is there a chance of getting it replaced for free? I already paid the $99 diags fee (that goes toward the repair).
Pity you did not seek advice first on this. You'd have to approach panasonic but from what i've read from previous experience in the US it's not worth the hassle. I've read of someone having to pay for diag, panasonic pay the repair labour but you pay for the part and after all that the reapair cost was still about what you say.

If you are confident in taking the back off the Tv, remove the Sc board yourself, send it to moduslinkpts for repair and install yourself

http://www.moduslinkptstvboards.com/txnsc1phuu/

there are repair kits $30 and I have done the same board for a S30 and all I had to replace was 4 transistors for about $6 but sometimes it can be more than this that needs replacing so modus is the safest option and you'll get out of it for a bit over $100. unless you have some soldering experience and the tools that's what I'd do. there may be some people offering repairs on ebay also a bit cheaper but modus seem to get good reports on the other forum I'm on

if you'd posted this first I probably could have diag the fault as SC for free and it is the most common fault with that generation of pansonic plasmas.

The Tv is probably more than 3 years old so I would not expect must free assistance from panasonic.

did they test the buffer boards for shorts and confirmed hey were ok as part of the diag?
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post #2223 of 2243 Old 02-26-2015, 08:33 PM
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Originally Posted by TW2005 View Post
Pity you did not seek advice first on this. You'd have to approach panasonic but from what i've read from previous experience in the US it's not worth the hassle. I've read of someone having to pay for diag, panasonic pay the repair labour but you pay for the part and after all that the reapair cost was still about what you say.

If you are confident in taking the back off the Tv, remove the Sc board yourself, send it to moduslinkpts for repair and install yourself

http://www.moduslinkptstvboards.com/txnsc1phuu/

there are repair kits $30 and I have done the same board for a S30 and all I had to replace was 4 transistors for about $6 but sometimes it can be more than this that needs replacing so modus is the safest option and you'll get out of it for a bit over $100. unless you have some soldering experience and the tools that's what I'd do. there may be some people offering repairs on ebay also a bit cheaper but modus seem to get good reports on the other forum I'm on

if you'd posted this first I probably could have diag the fault as SC for free and it is the most common fault with that generation of pansonic plasmas.

The Tv is probably more than 3 years old so I would not expect must free assistance from panasonic.

did they test the buffer boards for shorts and confirmed hey were ok as part of the diag?
Thank you. It's fine. If I had known Panny's had this issue, I probably would have skipped it. However, this made me apperciate my TV that much more. Almost no TV (I was considering buying a new one) compares. So $320 vs a $1200+ one is good for me. I just look at it on the bright side. I only paid $700 for the TV and got a free blu ray player with it. So in total $1000 is still below the market value. I was going to buy a New 3DSXL with that money anyways so it's not too much sweat here.
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post #2224 of 2243 Old 03-02-2015, 05:46 PM
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TC-P42X3 No Power, No Flashing Lights....

Hi.

First time posting here, and need some help with my P42X3.

It would not turn on a week or so ago. It makes clicking noises, but no flashing red LED on the front panel. No lights on the panel at all. The clicking noise is coming from what I think are two relays on the power board. The sound when power is plugged in is one click, followed by a short pause and then 3 fast clicks.

The only light is a small red light on the A board where the back panel indicates "digital audio out". At the first click, the red light comes on. Following the three rapid clicks, it goes off. Then cycles that way, on and off, with the clicking pattern.

Based on reading about bad power boards on these models, I ordered a replacement power board. The symptoms are the same after installing the new power board. I have not tested either of the power boards.

Any help on locating the problem and solution would be much appreciated.

Thanks!
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post #2225 of 2243 Old 03-02-2015, 11:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by unclecurt View Post
Hi.

First time posting here, and need some help with my P42X3.

It would not turn on a week or so ago. It makes clicking noises, but no flashing red LED on the front panel. No lights on the panel at all. The clicking noise is coming from what I think are two relays on the power board. The sound when power is plugged in is one click, followed by a short pause and then 3 fast clicks.

The only light is a small red light on the A board where the back panel indicates "digital audio out". At the first click, the red light comes on. Following the three rapid clicks, it goes off. Then cycles that way, on and off, with the clicking pattern.

Based on reading about bad power boards on these models, I ordered a replacement power board. The symptoms are the same after installing the new power board. I have not tested either of the power boards.

Any help on locating the problem and solution would be much appreciated.

Thanks!
sounds like SN or SS board or both have shorted out. you would have to check for short cct at SN2 and SS11 , disconnect the power cables to those first then check resistance
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post #2226 of 2243 Old 03-03-2015, 06:23 AM
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Originally Posted by TW2005 View Post
sounds like SN or SS board or both have shorted out. you would have to check for short cct at SN2 and SS11 , disconnect the power cables to those first then check resistance
Thanks.

Would it be possible to advise how to do this check with a multi-meter. I work on wooden boats. TV's..... not so much.

Thanks.
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post #2227 of 2243 Old 03-05-2015, 01:34 PM
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hello everyone,

I got a TC-P50X1 back in '09 and it would constantly shut itself off after being on for a little bit and the periods it would remain on got shorter and shorter. Eventually it would not turn on at all. Anyone got an idea what may be wrong? thanks
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post #2228 of 2243 Old 03-07-2015, 05:37 AM
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Originally Posted by TW2005 View Post
sounds like SN or SS board or both have shorted out. you would have to check for short cct at SN2 and SS11 , disconnect the power cables to those first then check resistance
I pulled the power leads from both boards and checked for continuity at SN2 and SS11. I have continuity at SN2, but not at SS11. Is it correct that there's a short somewhere on the SN11 sustain board?

Thanks.
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post #2229 of 2243 Old 03-07-2015, 06:32 AM
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If you guysa 're looking for a service manual, go to elektrotanya and punch in your model number. Sometimes a different number will result in a diagnosis manual also
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post #2230 of 2243 Old 03-08-2015, 03:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by unclecurt View Post
I pulled the power leads from both boards and checked for continuity at SN2 and SS11. I have continuity at SN2, but not at SS11. Is it correct that there's a short somewhere on the SN11 sustain board?

Thanks.
If you have a constant continuity beep at SN2 ( you said sn11), set the meter to resistance and double check. if it's showing low ohms or close to zero then that's the shorted board
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post #2231 of 2243 Old 03-08-2015, 02:55 PM
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Originally Posted by TW2005 View Post
If you have a constant continuity beep at SN2 ( you said sn11), set the meter to resistance and double check. if it's showing low ohms or close to zero then that's the shorted board
I have continuity at SN2 and resistance of 730 Ohms. Does that constitute a problem on the board?

I could check SS11 again. There are 3 points of contact at SS11 (vs two at SN2). Not sure of which ones to use to check resistance for this board.
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post #2232 of 2243 Old 03-11-2015, 09:16 AM
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Hi all,

New here and very glad to have found dthese forum!!!!

Bought my Viera TX-P54ZE11 PANA in September 2009.

A few days ago I had the first ever 5x blinking red led error code, today its has even a 7 blinking red led error code.

Is my set totally borked?

TIA & Cheers
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post #2233 of 2243 Old 03-12-2015, 06:04 AM
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Hi All,

I purchased a 2011 Panasonic TC-P55GT30 in February of 2011. The set worked perfectly until yesterday where it was on for about 15 minutes and then randomly shut off. I changed power source (from surge protector to directly into the wall) after letting it sit for several minutes, and it would respond to the remote, but screen stays black, no picture, and it gives me the infamous "7 blinks of death". From research here and elsewhere, it is indicative of a SU/SD Board failure. It will respond to the power button but gives 7 red-indicators followed by 2 seconds and back to 7 red-indicators.

Despite what I read, I gave Panasonic a shot and talked through my issue over the phone after refusing to pay $9.99 for tech support, which is absurd. They refused to let me continue to work with supervisors etc, and simply said this isnt the first issue we've heard, but we cannot do anything due to being out of warranty. They simply offered a "loyalty discount" towards a new set which was even more enraging. I paid a good deal of money expecting to have this set for several years, only to find out it has lasted a few years before failing.

Is this toast, I have seen threads where costing could range from $400-800, I am looking to understand what my options are and if its worth attacking.

Thanks
- Dave
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post #2234 of 2243 Old 03-12-2015, 07:08 AM
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my panny went out as well, I used a vendor koshevo on flee bay
to repair my board was quick and painless.
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post #2235 of 2243 Old 03-14-2015, 07:54 AM
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Ok, so I replaced the power board and both sustain boards. STILL not working and doing the same thing as before the boards were replaced.

I have no blinking lights, just the same clicking noise which sounds like it's coming from the power board. I'm at a loss as to how to resolve the problem and would appreciate any guidance.

With 3 of the boards replaced now, I'm not sure what to do next, or if this TV can be repaired.
Frustrating....

Thanks.
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post #2236 of 2243 Old 03-14-2015, 11:36 AM
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After going through an online troubleshooting session at Answers.com, it seems the main board is the problem.
So now I'm looking for a replacement main board.

According to the troubleshooting session, the main board (A board) can go out due to power surges, lightning, etc. even if the fuses on the power board don't go out, which is the case here.
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post #2237 of 2243 Old 03-14-2015, 03:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ritrain86 View Post
Hi All,

I purchased a 2011 Panasonic TC-P55GT30 in February of 2011. The set worked perfectly until yesterday where it was on for about 15 minutes and then randomly shut off. I changed power source (from surge protector to directly into the wall) after letting it sit for several minutes, and it would respond to the remote, but screen stays black, no picture, and it gives me the infamous "7 blinks of death". From research here and elsewhere, it is indicative of a SU/SD Board failure. It will respond to the power button but gives 7 red-indicators followed by 2 seconds and back to 7 red-indicators.

Despite what I read, I gave Panasonic a shot and talked through my issue over the phone after refusing to pay $9.99 for tech support, which is absurd. They refused to let me continue to work with supervisors etc, and simply said this isnt the first issue we've heard, but we cannot do anything due to being out of warranty. They simply offered a "loyalty discount" towards a new set which was even more enraging. I paid a good deal of money expecting to have this set for several years, only to find out it has lasted a few years before failing.

Is this toast, I have seen threads where costing could range from $400-800, I am looking to understand what my options are and if its worth attacking.

Thanks
- Dave
join badcaps.net and post there. much easier to help on a single thread that relates to one persons problem than it is here.

If you're able to take the TV apart and know how to use a multimeter to check for shorts then you may be able to get out of this for $100 - 200. Going to depend on whether the SD/SU buffers are bad but I'd expect the SC board to part of the issue here and they can be repaired which is what most are doing now to keep there TVs going. Moduslinkpts for board repair
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post #2238 of 2243 Old 03-14-2015, 03:41 PM
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Sorry I've missed all this

Quote:
Originally Posted by unclecurt View Post
I have continuity at SN2 and resistance of 730 Ohms. Does that constitute a problem on the board?

I could check SS11 again. There are 3 points of contact at SS11 (vs two at SN2). Not sure of which ones to use to check resistance for this board.
I would have said that's too low but I'm assuming your meter is set correctly. normally 300k -2 megohms

Quote:
Originally Posted by unclecurt View Post
Ok, so I replaced the power board and both sustain boards. STILL not working and doing the same thing as before the boards were replaced.

I have no blinking lights, just the same clicking noise which sounds like it's coming from the power board. I'm at a loss as to how to resolve the problem and would appreciate any guidance.

With 3 of the boards replaced now, I'm not sure what to do next, or if this TV can be repaired.
Frustrating....

Thanks.
Always a chance of receiving faulty boards if you got these secondhand. Did you check the resistance at SN2 and compare to yours?

Quote:
Originally Posted by unclecurt View Post
After going through an online troubleshooting session at Answers.com, it seems the main board is the problem.
So now I'm looking for a replacement main board.

According to the troubleshooting session, the main board (A board) can go out due to power surges, lightning, etc. even if the fuses on the power board don't go out, which is the case here.
Ok, well I'm sorry my guideance did not help, I'm generally on the money but hard over the net to get it 100% all the time.

Now I don't know what process you went through @ Answers.com but I've used this in the past on the 2010 models, maybe it will work here.

Disconnect Sn2,SS11, P35, 3 white ribbons at the A board and turn the TV on and see if it turns on and stays on as if it was working correctly. You should be able to backprobe the power board for voltages, p2,P11 will have about 200v, p35 50-60 and thern there will be 5v ,15v lines but I would worry only checking P2 and p35 which will indicated the mainboard has turned the panel on.

Don't reconnect any of those power cables after you turn the TV off for at least 5mins due to residual voltage while the caps discharge or you can spike / damage boards or panel
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post #2239 of 2243 Old 03-14-2015, 03:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m4v3r1ckNL View Post
Hi all,

New here and very glad to have found dthese forum!!!!

Bought my Viera TX-P54ZE11 PANA in September 2009.

A few days ago I had the first ever 5x blinking red led error code, today its has even a 7 blinking red led error code.

Is my set totally borked?

TIA & Cheers
I think you may have the model wrong TX-P54ZE11 Or TX-P54Z11E?

5 blink then 7 blink sounds like this may be a SC board failure. The models below this definitely most common failure is the SC board and the design is usually similar. You'd have to check the sd/su boards as well for shorts. Won't be a terribly cheap fix as board repair of the Sc will be around $150. If the sd/su boards are ok then that's probably not tto bad for a large TV.

If you need to pay a tech to fault find it or do all the work, this will be expensive
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post #2240 of 2243 Old 03-15-2015, 11:06 AM
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Originally Posted by TW2005 View Post
Now I don't know what process you went through @ Answers.com but I've used this in the past on the 2010 models, maybe it will work here.

Disconnect Sn2,SS11, P35, 3 white ribbons at the A board and turn the TV on and see if it turns on and stays on as if it was working correctly. You should be able to backprobe the power board for voltages, p2,P11 will have about 200v, p35 50-60 and thern there will be 5v ,15v lines but I would worry only checking P2 and p35 which will indicated the mainboard has turned the panel on.

Don't reconnect any of those power cables after you turn the TV off for at least 5mins due to residual voltage while the caps discharge or you can spike / damage boards or panel
Thanks for your help.

The procedure you mention is what I did, with the exception of checking voltages. With the main board isolated from the sustain boards and the buffer board (i.e. the power board and main board only), I pressed the power button on the keypad and .... nothing. Still the same symptom of clicking noises from the power board, no lights, no screen.

Based on this and your procedure, it seems the main board is the culprit.
Planning to send the main board to ModusLink for repair.
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post #2241 of 2243 Unread 03-21-2015, 10:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TW2005 View Post
I think you may have the model wrong TX-P54ZE11 Or TX-P54Z11E?



5 blink then 7 blink sounds like this may be a SC board failure. The models below this definitely most common failure is the SC board and the design is usually similar. You'd have to check the sd/su boards as well for shorts. Won't be a terribly cheap fix as board repair of the Sc will be around $150. If the sd/su boards are ok then that's probably not tto bad for a large TV.



If you need to pay a tech to fault find it or do all the work, this will be expensive

Thanks for the help!

Will look out for the boards in EU, is there a place on the net you can recommend?

Cheers
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post #2242 of 2243 Unread Yesterday, 05:12 AM
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Just wanted to post an update with my Panasonic TH-46PZ850U plasma (built 2008, put into service April 2009):

Had the 10 blinking lights. Set would not come on. Did the "NorCal" YouTube test spraying refrigerant out of upside down can of compressed air on to MC301 then MC201. TV came up when MC201 was frozen.

So I removed the *very tiny* capacitor off the MC201 board in October 2014 and did not replace it.

The set is still running fine and it's been 5 months now. I *have* the replacement capacitor but don't think I can solder it in correctly due to the extremely tiny size (afraid I'll just end up bridging the two connection points)

I did *not* touch the capacitor on MC301 as the "freeze test" showed the problem to be on MC201. I'm sure at some point the set will fail again and MC301 will have to be removed but I'll cross that bridge when we get to it
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post #2243 of 2243 Unread Today, 06:55 AM
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I have a VT50 and am facing this issue.

1. A month ago I started having 2 vertical lines on the left side of my panel. It was usually blue but it went away after a week or two or when the tv "warmed?" Up enough.

2. Then I started having trouble starting the plasma. Switching it on will result in the power light green light blinking around 15? 16 times after the click sound and the power lights stays green but all I see is a black screen. I cannot pull up the menu etc. After a switching on and off the unit a few times, it would start up right.

These past two days I totaly cannot start it up. It does the blink thing and then the led light indicator stays green but I totaly have no display. It's out of warranty. Any ideas what's the issue and what I can do?
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