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post #2251 of 2269 Old 04-26-2015, 05:34 PM
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Ok so I've had my panasonic p46st30 for a while now--number of years maybe 3-4)--and it was working fine up till now. I've been combing and reading through the thread but apparently not many people had the same problem as mine and the ones that did their questions never got responded so I was wondering if anybody would be kind of enough to help me?

My tv now won't turn on at all--the display when turned on makes the usual 1 click noise when you first turn it on and then displays a black screen and stays there--with the red LED on the front bottom screen displaying power staying at a constant rate with no blinking. Whereas after this happens the remote doesn't work or respond to the tv, and also the buttons on the tv do not work at all--all buttons including the menu--yet the power on the tv is on. So I'm not sure if this is the A board or not?

Would somebody be kind enough to help me with this?

Thanks.
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post #2252 of 2269 Old 04-27-2015, 01:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Swuell View Post
Ok so I've had my panasonic p46st30 for a while now--number of years maybe 3-4)--and it was working fine up till now. I've been combing and reading through the thread but apparently not many people had the same problem as mine and the ones that did their questions never got responded so I was wondering if anybody would be kind of enough to help me?

My tv now won't turn on at all--the display when turned on makes the usual 1 click noise when you first turn it on and then displays a black screen and stays there--with the red LED on the front bottom screen displaying power staying at a constant rate with no blinking. Whereas after this happens the remote doesn't work or respond to the tv, and also the buttons on the tv do not work at all--all buttons including the menu--yet the power on the tv is on. So I'm not sure if this is the A board or not?

Would somebody be kind enough to help me with this?

Thanks.
Sounds like it could be in locked mode, shorted Sc board would be high on the suspect list which can produce locked solid LED, no codes.

"Shutdown but No Blink code - Power LED stays on (Check for Shorted Vsus* / Vda** / P15V)."

"Red Solid LED (No Blink): LSI error. This condition is triggered when the power supply SOS-detect-signal is triggered during the startup process."


"These conditions can cause the TV to shutdown while the power LED stays on (Solid red)
New
1.
Over current condition detected by the power supply during start-up process.
􀂉
Shorted Vsus.
􀂉
Shorted Vda.
􀂉
Shorted P15V.
2.
Wrong diagnostic by the A board"


Also recommended to replace the SC mounting bolts with preferred bolts with flat washers and spring washers like they use to be as these new ones are not suited and work loose, create poor earths and arcing. you may find some loose on this board an the SS board on the other side.

you may find some more info on Badcaps.net Affects this whole series (2011) Sc board short is very common

ModuslinkPTS do rebuilds and Sd/SU boards need to be checked for shorts as well.
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post #2253 of 2269 Old 05-03-2015, 01:33 AM
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TX-P42S30B - 6 blinks

Hi,

I have a TX-P42S30B with 6 blinks.

I've found the ShopJimmy YouTube video for diagnosing the offending board BUT it's naturally for the US model.

My question is: do you think I can follow the diagnostic advice for my UK model?
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post #2254 of 2269 Old 05-03-2015, 08:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeFloutier View Post
Hi,

I have a TX-P42S30B with 6 blinks.

I've found the ShopJimmy YouTube video for diagnosing the offending board BUT it's naturally for the US model.

My question is: do you think I can follow the diagnostic advice for my UK model?
yes, 6 blinks i'd be thinking SN board
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post #2255 of 2269 Old 05-04-2015, 12:50 PM
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Hi guys.

I have the 7 blinks problem on my ST30, i suspect it can be a problem with the A board because when the error happened the hdmi cable was folded on the conector. I think it might short the A board.

How can I check the A board? SAT ask me 300$ for that...
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post #2256 of 2269 Old 05-04-2015, 06:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by websmr View Post
Hi guys.

I have the 7 blinks problem on my ST30, i suspect it can be a problem with the A board because when the error happened the hdmi cable was folded on the conector. I think it might short the A board.

How can I check the A board? SAT ask me 300$ for that...
The service manual tells you how to test each board for specific problems. If you're good with a multimeter, it's probably not too hard to check. Was there any prior indication that something was wrong (loud buzzing, pink/purple IR and ghosting)? The SC, SD, SS, and SU board are a common problem on the 30 series and 7 blinks can indicate problems with them.
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post #2257 of 2269 Old 05-05-2015, 01:02 AM
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Originally Posted by websmr View Post
Hi guys.

I have the 7 blinks problem on my ST30, i suspect it can be a problem with the A board because when the error happened the hdmi cable was folded on the conector. I think it might short the A board.

How can I check the A board? SAT ask me 300$ for that...
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Originally Posted by lowe View Post
The service manual tells you how to test each board for specific problems. If you're good with a multimeter, it's probably not too hard to check. Was there any prior indication that something was wrong (loud buzzing, pink/purple IR and ghosting)? The SC, SD, SS, and SU board are a common problem on the 30 series and 7 blinks can indicate problems with them.
I'd be going down the Sc,SD,Su path first for a 7 blink. Not sure what you mean by cable folded on conector.

full model # would be handy for looking up the correct service manual. Sometimes it's possible to isolate all the boards to check if A board is triggering 7 blink but the other boards are more likely and 7 blink is common failure of this series as too loose mounting screws on the Sc and SS boards
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post #2258 of 2269 Old 05-05-2015, 08:38 AM
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Originally Posted by lowe View Post
Was there any prior indication that something was wrong (loud buzzing, pink/purple IR and ghosting)? The SC, SD, SS, and SU board are a common problem on the 30 series and 7 blinks can indicate problems with them.
Not even one problem until yesterday

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Not sure what you mean by cable folded on conector.
Sorry for that, english is not my native language, what i tried to say its the hdmi connector was broke inside of the TV

I let a image i found on the web similar to what happened, except the connector got stuck on the TV.
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post #2259 of 2269 Old 05-12-2015, 08:30 AM
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Has anyone had problems with their Moduslink repaired boards? I had my boards repaired in January. They worked fine until 2 weeks ago when I got the 7 blinking lights again. I've tried contacting Moduslink several times over the last 2 weeks hoping they might help me out but I can't get a response from them. I was hoping for more than 3 months out of the repaired boards.
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post #2260 of 2269 Old 05-14-2015, 07:37 AM
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No problems with my Modus repaired boards yet, it's been about 2 months *knocks on wood*. When you reinstalled the boards, did you make sure to either use the updated screw kit or loc-tite (blue / medium) the original screws back in? Getting ready to send them the A board from my 65" VT30, hoping all goes well.
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post #2261 of 2269 Old 05-15-2015, 10:34 PM
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Originally Posted by uwmad View Post
Has anyone had problems with their Moduslink repaired boards? I had my boards repaired in January. They worked fine until 2 weeks ago when I got the 7 blinking lights again. I've tried contacting Moduslink several times over the last 2 weeks hoping they might help me out but I can't get a response from them. I was hoping for more than 3 months out of the repaired boards.
keep in mind panasonic designed these boards, modus repair the fault present. It's unfortunate but I do my own and have a 2 repaired board still working after 5 months.

I assume you've sent a request /enquiry in writing via email?
.................................................. .................................................. ...........................................
PURCHASED / REPAIRED TV PARTS WARRANTY POLICY:


We offer a 6 month warranty policy for items purchased from or repaired by ModusLink PTS. If you wish to return your purchased part for credit, please see our return policy below.

PURCHASED / REPAIRED TV PARTS RETURN POLICY


You may return product purchased from this site within 30 days of the initial order date. We ask that all items be returned in original condition. A restocking fee of 20% will be assessed to all customer returns. Please remember that items returned outside the 30 day purchase window and customer repairs are not eligible for credit.

You should expect to receive your refund within four weeks of shipping your package, however, in many cases you will receive a refund quicker. This time period includes the transit time for us to receive your return, the time it takes us to process your return once we receive it, and the time it takes your bank to process our refund request.

If you need to return an item, simply login to your account, view the order using the "Completed Orders" link under the My Account menu and click the Return Item(s) button. We'll notify you via e-mail of your refund once we've received and processed the returned item.
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post #2262 of 2269 Old 05-29-2015, 09:22 PM
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Originally Posted by TW2005 View Post
Sounds like it could be in locked mode, shorted Sc board would be high on the suspect list which can produce locked solid LED, no codes.

"Shutdown but No Blink code - Power LED stays on (Check for Shorted Vsus* / Vda** / P15V)."

"Red Solid LED (No Blink): LSI error. This condition is triggered when the power supply SOS-detect-signal is triggered during the startup process."


"These conditions can cause the TV to shutdown while the power LED stays on (Solid red)
New
1.
Over current condition detected by the power supply during start-up process.
􀂉
Shorted Vsus.
􀂉
Shorted Vda.
􀂉
Shorted P15V.
2.
Wrong diagnostic by the A board"


Also recommended to replace the SC mounting bolts with preferred bolts with flat washers and spring washers like they use to be as these new ones are not suited and work loose, create poor earths and arcing. you may find some loose on this board an the SS board on the other side.

you may find some more info on Badcaps.net Affects this whole series (2011) Sc board short is very common

ModuslinkPTS do rebuilds and Sd/SU boards need to be checked for shorts as well.
Hello:

Thanks for your post and the trouble shooting flow chart. I have a Panasonic TC-P50G20 which goes into "Locked Mode Solid Red LED" when turned on. I followed the trouble shooting guide you provided and even with all the boards disconnected I still get the Solid LED which indicates the P board. I bought a used P board on ebay which was supposed to be "tested / working" but it behaves exactly the same. I did get it to turn on once (after tuning TV on and off several time by holding power button and waiting for reset) and TV was on for a couple hours and worked perfectly but once I turned it off it is back to "Locked Mode". I again went through the trouble shooting chart and even after disconnecting all the boards I still got a solid LED which indicates a bad P board. Is there anything else that can cause a Locked Mode solid LED with SC2, SC20, SS11 and P35 disconnected besides a bad P board?

Thanks!
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post #2263 of 2269 Old Yesterday, 02:24 PM
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Originally Posted by levimax View Post
Hello:

Thanks for your post and the trouble shooting flow chart. I have a Panasonic TC-P50G20 which goes into "Locked Mode Solid Red LED" when turned on. I followed the trouble shooting guide you provided and even with all the boards disconnected I still get the Solid LED which indicates the P board. I bought a used P board on ebay which was supposed to be "tested / working" but it behaves exactly the same. I did get it to turn on once (after tuning TV on and off several time by holding power button and waiting for reset) and TV was on for a couple hours and worked perfectly but once I turned it off it is back to "Locked Mode". I again went through the trouble shooting chart and even after disconnecting all the boards I still got a solid LED which indicates a bad P board. Is there anything else that can cause a Locked Mode solid LED with SC2, SC20, SS11 and P35 disconnected besides a bad P board?

Thanks!
that information applies to the 2011 models, not yours.

sounds like your TV maybe turning on but no image? Try it again , then look through the vent holes at the back or if you have the cover off better still. Look at the SC and SS boards and see if their small green LEDs are lit.

When you plug in the TV and switch the power on, is there a double relay click then a pause , then a third click?

Sounding like an A-board issue

With thiese removed SC2, SS11 and P35 plus also the3 white ribbons at the A board, if it is not turning on (there will beno image) then I'd say A-board.

P-boards are pretty reliable in these and you've tried 2 same result,
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post #2264 of 2269 Old Yesterday, 05:16 PM
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that information applies to the 2011 models, not yours.

sounds like your TV maybe turning on but no image? Try it again , then look through the vent holes at the back or if you have the cover off better still. Look at the SC and SS boards and see if their small green LEDs are lit.

When you plug in the TV and switch the power on, is there a double relay click then a pause , then a third click?

Sounding like an A-board issue

With thiese removed SC2, SS11 and P35 plus also the3 white ribbons at the A board, if it is not turning on (there will beno image) then I'd say A-board.

P-boards are pretty reliable in these and you've tried 2 same result,
Hello and thank you for your reply.

I checked with both P boards and they behave the same:

When I plug in TV and hear a "relay click" the IR audio input glows red.

When I push power button there is no relay sound, just red LED on front panel comes on, no picture, no green LED's on SC or SS boards, IR audio input glows red, no picture and no response power button or remote. If I hold power button down for 10 seconds I hear one relay click then when I release it another relay click and LED on front panel goes off.

When I disconnect SC2, SS11, P35, and 3 white ribbons on A board it behaves the same as above. So I guess it is A board then? Any other check before I buy one?

Thanks again for your help!
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post #2265 of 2269 Old Yesterday, 06:26 PM
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Originally Posted by levimax View Post
Hello:

Thanks for your post and the trouble shooting flow chart. I have a Panasonic TC-P50G20 which goes into "Locked Mode Solid Red LED" when turned on. I followed the trouble shooting guide you provided and even with all the boards disconnected I still get the Solid LED which indicates the P board. I bought a used P board on ebay which was supposed to be "tested / working" but it behaves exactly the same. I did get it to turn on once (after tuning TV on and off several time by holding power button and waiting for reset) and TV was on for a couple hours and worked perfectly but once I turned it off it is back to "Locked Mode". I again went through the trouble shooting chart and even after disconnecting all the boards I still got a solid LED which indicates a bad P board. Is there anything else that can cause a Locked Mode solid LED with SC2, SC20, SS11 and P35 disconnected besides a bad P board?

Thanks!
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Hello and thank you for your reply.

I checked with both P boards and they behave the same:

When I plug in TV and hear a "relay click" the IR audio input glows red.

When I push power button there is no relay sound, just red LED on front panel comes on, no picture, no green LED's on SC or SS boards, IR audio input glows red, no picture and no response power button or remote. If I hold power button down for 10 seconds I hear one relay click then when I release it another relay click and LED on front panel goes off.

When I disconnect SC2, SS11, P35, and 3 white ribbons on A board it behaves the same as above. So I guess it is A board then? Any other check before I buy one?

Thanks again for your help!

If it's doing exactly the same with just the P & A boards that would suggest A-board. If you have a multimeter able to read just over 200v dc you could have all those leads removed and back probe P2 or P11 and confirm no Vsus voltage as you try to turn it on with button or remote. Hope you did not reconnect the leads straight away or you can spike the boards. The voltage will still be there until it bleeds off. Most important is P35 as that feeds the bottom ribbons at the panel and if that gets a hit and spikes the ICs embedded on the ribbons, the panel will be toast.

If you plugged it in for the relay clicks(x2) and then immediately attempted turn on at front button or remote there will be no more clicks as the relays are already latched and the standby F15v is running, A-board is initialised for turn. I think if no cammand is received after 15-20 secs then a third click which is it de-energising and I think the optical audio out port will also be out.

I'd have to look into the training guide for any more tests. You could disconnect the IR board cable from the A and retry the front button but i don't expect that to do anything and you won't get any LED on the front either so you'd have to rely on other evidence to check if it's on or not. When looking for an A-board you need the same version/revison not just the board number
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post #2266 of 2269 Old Yesterday, 06:30 PM
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If it's doing exactly the same with just the P & A boards that would suggest A-board. If you have a multimeter able to read just over 200v dc you could have all those leads removed and back probe P2 or P11 and confirm no Vsus voltage as you try to turn it on with button or remote. Hope you did not reconnect the leads straight away or you can spike the boards. The voltage will still be there until it bleeds off. Most important is P35 as that feeds the bottom ribbons at the panel and if that gets a hit and spikes the ICs embedded on the ribbons, the panel will be toast.

If you plugged it in for the relay clicks(x2) and then immediately attempted turn on at front button or remote there will be no more clicks as the relays are already latched and the standby F15v is running, A-board is initialised for turn. I think if no cammand is received after 15-20 secs then a third click which is it de-energising and I think the optical audio out port will also be out.

I'd have to look into the training guide for any more tests. You could disconnect the IR board cable from the A and retry the front button but i don't expect that to do anything and you won't get any LED on the front either so you'd have to rely on other evidence to check if it's on or not. When looking for an A-board you need the same version/revison not just the board number
If you have a hair dryer, you could try warming the A-board up all over and see if that changes anything. heating and cooling boards can sometimes get it to work if only just to isolate it to that board.
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post #2267 of 2269 Old Yesterday, 07:37 PM
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If you have a hair dryer, you could try warming the A-board up all over and see if that changes anything. heating and cooling boards can sometimes get it to work if only just to isolate it to that board.
OK I tried warming up A board with hair dryer with no luck. Then using button on side of TV I tried turning it on and if "locked" held power button to reset then tried again. I went through this cycle 4 or 5 times and then the TV turned on and worked perfectly. I then turned it off with remote and it would not come back on. I then did the "push the power button on the TV/ if "locked" hold power button to reset right away/ then right away tried to turn on/repeat multiple times" and after awhile it turns on. Once the TV is on it stays on and works perfectly. Does that help narrow problem down? Good news is I didn't hurt anything plugging and unplugging P35
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post #2268 of 2269 Old Yesterday, 08:10 PM
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OK I tried warming up A board with hair dryer with no luck. Then using button on side of TV I tried turning it on and if "locked" held power button to reset then tried again. I went through this cycle 4 or 5 times and then the TV turned on and worked perfectly. I then turned it off with remote and it would not come back on. I then did the "push the power button on the TV/ if "locked" hold power button to reset right away/ then right away tried to turn on/repeat multiple times" and after awhile it turns on. Once the TV is on it stays on and works perfectly. Does that help narrow problem down? Good news is I didn't hurt anything plugging and unplugging P35
definitely A board i'd say. What's frustrating is it could be some really simple part like a bad cap whether it be electrolytic or ceramic. Or it could be something like a BGA chip with fractured solders.

Quick fix would be a replacement A-board.

I can't coach you much further with it. You could try posting on badcaps with all the things tried thus far but component level fault finding on the A board is rare and not much success but the series before this, 2009 S1 for example, I have read a recent post of a full recap of those small can type caps to get it going but they may had at least a 1 blink code, you have no blink code. You may not get a lot of responses as only a few of us tried component level.

difficulty for me is your TVs have only RED led which was why i need you to confirm with a solid LED it's not actually on. Ours is much easier, rapid green blinks at bootup, locked green = on, blinking red is error code, solid red is standby.

have not read much at all on the A boards failing in this one except the odd 1 blink and that too can be a shorted SC board which is the more prevalent fault with these.

not sure if you need a login to download.

http://badcaps.net/forum/attachment....6&d=1383456126
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[quote=TW2005;34633793]definitely A board i'd say. What's frustrating is it could be some really simple part like a bad cap whether it be electrolytic or ceramic. Or it could be something like a BGA chip with fractured solders.

Quick fix would be a replacement A-board.

I can't coach you much further with it. You could try posting on badcaps with all the things tried thus far but component level fault finding on the A board is rare and not much success but the series before this, 2009 S1 for example, I have read a recent post of a full recap of those small can type caps to get it going but they may had at least a 1 blink code, you have no blink code. You may not get a lot of responses as only a few of us tried component level.

difficulty for me is your TVs have only RED led which was why i need you to confirm with a solid LED it's not actually on. Ours is much easier, rapid green blinks at bootup, locked green = on, blinking red is error code, solid red is standby.

have not read much at all on the A boards failing in this one except the odd 1 blink and that too can be a shorted SC board which is the more prevalent fault with these.

not sure if you need a login to download.



I downloaded the manual you linked to and as you say it offers better information for "blink codes" rather than my case of "locked mode" solid LED.

The first thing I am going to try is taking the A board out a carefully cleaning it. I live very close to the ocean and we get a "salt / dust" mix in the air which get on everything. I have solved some "protection fault" errors with my audio equipment by just cleaning off all the "salt/dust" on the circuit boards. This error seems similar to me. In any case I will let you know how I finally resolve this.

Thank you again for your great help and advice.
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