Master thread for Panasonic plasma not turning on - Page 77 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #2281 of 2288 Old 06-10-2015, 10:33 PM
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I have a Panasonic TC-P50S2. Initially I get the 10 blink code. I found a site that was some help but it's not telling me exactly what to replace. Here's what I did so far with just the SS board disconnected the code changes to 7 blinks. Then with the connection to the sc sd Su boards disconnected I get a 6 blink code. Also with the SS sd sc Su disconnected I get a 6 blink code. I would like to know what parts to order? Or what other way to test to find the issue. There's way too many pages to sort thru hopefully I can get some info
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post #2282 of 2288 Old 06-25-2015, 06:22 AM
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For the last several weeks I have been troubleshooting a (2009) Panny TC-P50G15 model. I was pretty sure the A-board was taken out by a spike (Sever thunder storm) over coax took out the version ONT, the TV and all the HDMI port connected devices on the TV. (Anyone want a Roku or Xbox brand desktop heater)

The failing A-board allows the TV to power up with no SOS, and you get to the dimming light dark grey screen with the SC and SS green leds lit. No service mode menus coming up. P board was clearly fine, with solid and correct Vsus voltages as specified by the spec sticker (199v) and good fuses. Nothing else in the general service manual was much help.

I then came across the 2009_pdp_troubleshooting_handbook_ttg090507cp-rev091117.pdf on this forum which I downloaded at badcaps.

and I got a used A-board from Ebay cheap ($104), however I suspect it was only salvaged and not verified working as the seller later said that it came from a TV with a shorted SC board. At least with this A board I was get an SOS, and received the 10 blink code.

After following the handbook, which had me checking for low or incorrect resistances at the SU and SC boards. These checked out. Slightly different, but only about 1-3%, not to mention I already know they seem to work with the old A board. I checked for a shorted SC or SS board. Also a little pointless, but they were good regardless. I then followed the slightly more difficult tests for the other dc voltages 15 and the 3.3v signal. All good here, and finally the last step A-board vs K-board. The test here seems a little bogus, but a after shorting the correct pin to floating ground, the TV did not power up, at least I think so, given that without the connected to the display connected no sure. All this led back to the A board, which I just replaced, albeit a used board from a broken TV.

I was able to return the used A-board provided it was sent within 2-weeks. I just got refunded.

So I need some expert advice on how to proceed.

1. Are there any of tests that could be performed that were no mentioned in this handbook. Have red many other post, my symptoms is similar to the locked mode on 2010 and 2011 models. Since I had to send the partially function A-board back not sure if much can be done.

2. Assuming my original A-board is salvageable, shall I send it to moduslink? This repair is sunk cost and expensive ($196), if the SC board is mysteriously bad too another ~$150... anything else? If I take this route the TV might take a little of my soul.

I have a new (2014 LED model) Samsung UN55H7150### on delivery and maybe I'll never look back.
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post #2283 of 2288 Old 07-01-2015, 08:33 AM
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My 2 year old took a Maglite to my UT50, screen's cracked, my wife says it won't power on at all, like it doesn't even make a noise when you turn it on. Could this be just a power surge and it just needs to be unplugged and plugged back in?

I'm at work all day so can't try it.
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post #2284 of 2288 Old 07-01-2015, 01:23 PM
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If the screen is cracked, that's usually pretty bad. Most likely need a new panel or a new TV.
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post #2285 of 2288 Old 07-01-2015, 02:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lowe View Post
If the screen is cracked, that's usually pretty bad. Most likely need a new panel or a new TV.
That's what I was afraid of - guess I'll look into replacing the panel, cause I'd hate to buy an LCD.

I got home - it's blinking 7 times, and the crack looks internal.

Last edited by VarmintCong; 07-01-2015 at 03:33 PM.
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post #2286 of 2288 Old 07-01-2015, 07:12 PM
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7 blinks is often times repairable. If you're handy with a multimeter and you can get a manual, you might be able to diagnose it. If you can get that far, a company like moduslinkpts can probably fix the problem parts.
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post #2287 of 2288 Old 07-02-2015, 04:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lowe View Post
7 blinks is often times repairable. If you're handy with a multimeter and you can get a manual, you might be able to diagnose it. If you can get that far, a company like moduslinkpts can probably fix the problem parts.
I'm definitely not handy with a multimeter - I guess I could take it somewhere but the nasty cracked screen doesn't look good cause the cracks are under the glass, i.e. I can't feel it, only see it.
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post #2288 of 2288 Old Today, 04:34 PM
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Viera TH-P42UT30A unresponsive with solid green LED

Hi everyone,
I've got a Panasonic Viera TH-P42UT30A plasma that has suddenly become unresponsive. When powered on, the display stays blank, and the status LED just remains a constantly on green. (The status is supposed to start red, then turn green when the TV is woken from standby mode, and flash when commands from the remote are received.) It doesn't respond to remote control commands (and I've checked that the remote is sending an IR signal), and doesn't respond to any of the buttons on the TV either. Just a continuously on green LED and no picture. No red LED error codes.

I'm happy to pull it apart, test for bad caps, unexpected shorts, etc, but does anyone have any advice as to where I should start looking?

Thanks!
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