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post #2491 of 2514 Old 11-25-2016, 06:57 PM
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New P board ($50 on eBay) fixed it! Thanks to everyone who's posted troubleshooting tips on this forum!
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post #2492 of 2514 Old 12-01-2016, 08:24 AM
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Hello,

I've read through a large chunk of posts in this thread but I don't think the symptoms I have match the majority of issues.. let's see if anyone has an idea of where I should go.

Model: TC-42GT25, purchased in 2010

Symptoms:
- No display nor sound from any input source. The panel seems to receive power as there is a dull black/gray hue to the screen (noticeably different from when the panel is off completely)
- Red LED is solid
- No changes after panel is left on for a long time (stays on, no LED changes, etc)
- Remote commands not displayed (I believe they are being received, meaning if I can get the panel to come on completely, i've noticed the input changed based on what i was pressing on the remote)
- Issue is intermittent - if I play with the remote enough, I can get a normal display and use the panel indefinitely, unless I turn it off
- Green LEDs on the side boards (SC boards?) are solid
- No noticeable damage to any circuit boards (burn marks, etc..)

Given that this is intermittent, I don't want to replace any hardware in hopes it will resolve the issue. I am not opposed to doing that in general, but I also don't mind taking it to a service center. I do have a cheap multimeter, but I am no electronics guru and don't really know how to use it properly. It was a gift.

Anyhow - I'm really looking to see if this is something I can resolve on my own or if it should be addressed by a certified technician. My gut says this needs some in-depth troubleshooting, but perhaps someone else has had this issue and can let me know what they had to do.

Thanks!
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post #2493 of 2514 Old 12-05-2016, 03:04 AM
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Unhappy Tc-p46c2

Hello,

I have an Panasonic TC-P46C2 (May 2010) and it’s doesn’t turn on anymore.

I can hear click when trying to turn it on but screen still black and red light start to blinking after click every 2-3 seconds non-stop…

Please help!
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post #2494 of 2514 Old 12-16-2016, 04:07 PM
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Help Needed

TC-P55GT30

Watching, then out of the blue, screen goes black, small pop, ozone, smoke.
Took back off and found arced burn on P board. Replaced the board, but still nothing. No power, no LED.

Any ideas. I'm wondering should I try the "sub" board next? PTS Electronics offers a complete board option, not sure if it will fix.
Great TV, hate to lose it.

Any ideas?
Thanks!
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post #2495 of 2514 Old 12-17-2016, 04:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tvnovus View Post
Help Needed

TC-P55GT30

Watching, then out of the blue, screen goes black, small pop, ozone, smoke.
Took back off and found arced burn on P board. Replaced the board, but still nothing. No power, no LED.

Any ideas. I'm wondering should I try the "sub" board next? PTS Electronics offers a complete board option, not sure if it will fix.
Great TV, hate to lose it.

Any ideas?
Thanks!
Instead of just throwing boards at it, start a thread over at this place.
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=31
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post #2496 of 2514 Old 12-18-2016, 03:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Test Ickles View Post
Instead of just throwing boards at it, start a thread over at this place.
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=31
Thanks for the link, I'll check it out.

I agree, I don't want to buy all the boards without knowing what's wrong.

Thanks again for the point.
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post #2497 of 2514 Old 12-21-2016, 10:22 AM
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Hi, I've been trying to get my Panasonic TH50PX60U working again, its got the classic 10 blink as you would expect. I actually already made a thread over at badcaps but figured I would post here too, more advice the better.

I'd post pictures or a link to my badcaps thread but I don't have enough posts. If you feel adventurous I've got a thread titled "Panasonic TH50PX60U 10 blinks does not power on" under the same username in the "Troubleshooying TVs and Video Sources" section.

Anyways, basically my tv went dead few years ago, started off by just shutting off randomly. When I plug it in I hear two quick clicks, a very slight pause and then another click. The red led repeatedly blinks 10 times, no fans come on. I tried the freeze test on MC301 and MC201 and it didn't help.

Anything obvious stand out to you guys? Any advice on what to test with a multimeter or what boards to try unplugging would be very helpful.

Thanks
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post #2498 of 2514 Old 01-02-2017, 10:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SubEffect View Post
Hello,

I've read through a large chunk of posts in this thread but I don't think the symptoms I have match the majority of issues.. let's see if anyone has an idea of where I should go.

Model: TC-42GT25, purchased in 2010

Symptoms:
- No display nor sound from any input source. The panel seems to receive power as there is a dull black/gray hue to the screen (noticeably different from when the panel is off completely)
- Red LED is solid
- No changes after panel is left on for a long time (stays on, no LED changes, etc)
- Remote commands not displayed (I believe they are being received, meaning if I can get the panel to come on completely, i've noticed the input changed based on what i was pressing on the remote)
- Issue is intermittent - if I play with the remote enough, I can get a normal display and use the panel indefinitely, unless I turn it off
- Green LEDs on the side boards (SC boards?) are solid
- No noticeable damage to any circuit boards (burn marks, etc..)

Given that this is intermittent, I don't want to replace any hardware in hopes it will resolve the issue. I am not opposed to doing that in general, but I also don't mind taking it to a service center. I do have a cheap multimeter, but I am no electronics guru and don't really know how to use it properly. It was a gift.

Anyhow - I'm really looking to see if this is something I can resolve on my own or if it should be addressed by a certified technician. My gut says this needs some in-depth troubleshooting, but perhaps someone else has had this issue and can let me know what they had to do.

Thanks!
I'm having very similar issues as subeffect here.

I've been looking through precious threads and can't seem to find anyone with the same issue(except 1 other guy that commented the the blinking light thread and no one responded). When I power the TV on, the red light comes on and stays lit(no blinking) and the backlight also comes on. But that's it. Nothing can be seen or heard, no menu, no input selected, nada, just the backlight. When I open the back of the TV up, I have 1 green LED on the SS board, 1 green LED on the SC board, and the 'digital audio out' on the A board has a red light in it, but no other lights. Fans come on, I hear the relays clicking. When I disconnect the A5, A6, and A7 connectors on the A board, I get a solid white screen. I'm assuming this is either the A board or the main power board, but unsure which route to try first. I picked the TV up from a woman whose house I painted and she just wanted it gone. Any help in direction would be appreciated.

Also, it looks like what appears to be a bulb on the sub power board is present but not lit up like the leds and is defintely larger.. is this supposed to light up? I can attach pictures if anyone needs to see them.
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post #2499 of 2514 Old 01-02-2017, 10:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JDMorrison314 View Post
I'm having very similar issues as subeffect here.

I've been looking through precious threads and can't seem to find anyone with the same issue(except 1 other guy that commented the the blinking light thread and no one responded). When I power the TV on, the red light comes on and stays lit(no blinking) and the backlight also comes on. But that's it. Nothing can be seen or heard, no menu, no input selected, nada, just the backlight. When I open the back of the TV up, I have 1 green LED on the SS board, 1 green LED on the SC board, and the 'digital audio out' on the A board has a red light in it, but no other lights. Fans come on, I hear the relays clicking. When I disconnect the A5, A6, and A7 connectors on the A board, I get a solid white screen. I'm assuming this is either the A board or the main power board, but unsure which route to try first. I picked the TV up from a woman whose house I painted and she just wanted it gone. Any help in direction would be appreciated.

Also, it looks like what appears to be a bulb on the sub power board is present but not lit up like the leds and is defintely larger.. is this supposed to light up? I can attach pictures if anyone needs to see them.
oh, and my model is TH-46PZ85U
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post #2500 of 2514 Old 01-11-2017, 11:27 AM
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New to Panasonic plasmas

Picked up a used P55VT30 last month off of CL. Other than a minor scratch on the mask, it's clean and working OK; it's been in service since 2011. I've read through much of this great thread, and am asking if it should be considered mandatory preventative to replace all the existing board screws with the old-style, so as to avoid arching issues. I see that shopjimmy sells packs of 18; how many screws will I need to buy to refit all of the boards?
Thank you for any advice.

Last edited by azideam; 01-11-2017 at 01:17 PM. Reason: secondary question added
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post #2501 of 2514 Old 01-11-2017, 05:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by azideam View Post
Picked up a used P55VT30 last month off of CL. Other than a minor scratch on the mask, it's clean and working OK; it's been in service since 2011. I've read through much of this great thread, and am asking if it should be considered mandatory preventative to replace all the existing board screws with the old-style, so as to avoid arching issues. I see that shopjimmy sells packs of 18; how many screws will I need to buy to refit all of the boards?
Thank you for any advice.
I would just take the back off and see if they've come loose. If so apply some of the blue locktight.
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post #2502 of 2514 Old 01-20-2017, 08:59 PM
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ST50 Plasma

My lovely 5 year old plasma is starting to fail.

There is a youtube link but I can't link it video = GUc-91Vcdbk

It will keep looping, if I disconnect the main power for say 10-15 mins, then I can power the TV on fine.
Can last for around 10-15 minutes, and will keep restarting itself but will remain on fine.

My guess it's the power supply TNPA5567 (mine is version AF) but keen to find out would majority of the power boards be 90-240V? (as these TVs are sold worldwide). Given I'm in New Zealand trying to source a replacement TNPA5567 AF power supply board might be a bit troublesome.

No specific error blinking leds or red lights at all. Just the green power on led will flick very fast so unable to do the proper count for the error code.

Anyone else dealt with this issue and was it simply a replacement power board?

Regards,
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post #2503 of 2514 Old 02-15-2017, 01:08 PM
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Small Update..

Quote:
Originally Posted by SubEffect View Post
Hello,

I've read through a large chunk of posts in this thread but I don't think the symptoms I have match the majority of issues.. let's see if anyone has an idea of where I should go.

Model: TC-42GT25, purchased in 2010

Symptoms:
- No display nor sound from any input source. The panel seems to receive power as there is a dull black/gray hue to the screen (noticeably different from when the panel is off completely)
- Red LED is solid
- No changes after panel is left on for a long time (stays on, no LED changes, etc)
- Remote commands not displayed (I believe they are being received, meaning if I can get the panel to come on completely, i've noticed the input changed based on what i was pressing on the remote)
- Issue is intermittent - if I play with the remote enough, I can get a normal display and use the panel indefinitely, unless I turn it off
- Green LEDs on the side boards (SC boards?) are solid
- No noticeable damage to any circuit boards (burn marks, etc..)

Given that this is intermittent, I don't want to replace any hardware in hopes it will resolve the issue. I am not opposed to doing that in general, but I also don't mind taking it to a service center. I do have a cheap multimeter, but I am no electronics guru and don't really know how to use it properly. It was a gift.

Anyhow - I'm really looking to see if this is something I can resolve on my own or if it should be addressed by a certified technician. My gut says this needs some in-depth troubleshooting, but perhaps someone else has had this issue and can let me know what they had to do.

Thanks!
I finally got my set into a repair shop since it degraded to the point that I could no longer toggle it off/on to get an source to pop through. The guy basically came to the conclusion that the board with the inputs was bad (I believe this is the "Main" board).

I now have a dilemma - I'm not ready to replace this set yet (waiting on the 2016 OLEDs to go on sale ~ $1,500 for a 55" and I'm there). The cost of the board + labor will be between $300-350. I do eventually want a third TV for the basement (this set was to go there when I picked up an OLED). I believe I have found the same part on Ebay for $99 and i've thought about replacing it myself. I'm no electronics wiz, but I've built my own PCs and worked on laptops (admittedly, it's good that I don't do it for a living, I'm no surgeon).

Anyhow - aside from the obvious issues with not putting things back where they belong - any scary reasons why I shouldn't attempt this myself? It may be obvious.. the TV is dead as it is. Worst case I guess I throw away $100 or so. I'm basically concerned I'll be chasing the wrong part or something else is wrong..

Any advice there? I looked for "cheap" LCDs, but I really don't think that is a good use of money either. Right now I'm down a TV in the main room, which stinks..

Thanks
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post #2504 of 2514 Old 02-18-2017, 07:00 AM
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Ten Blinks: Question about power source

I don't know that folks read this thread much anymore, which is understandable. I've had a new development in my quest to fix my failing 42" 2010 model. The guy at the repair shop I took it to for an estimate offered to sell me a refurb'd 2008 50" model (TH-P50Z80U I believe). I decided to take him up on the deal and he gave me a 6 month warranty on the set. I got it home, turned it on and it was beautiful - very nice condition, nice picture, and the size increase was amazing. Played a few games for about an hour and turned it off. I turned it on this morning and - 10 blinks of death. It worked fine in the store, worked fine 2 days ago and it sat since Thursday night until this morning.

I returned it today and asked for my money back. Of course, when it was hooked up in the store, it came up without issues.

So, here's my question:

- Knowing the 10 blink code is specific a voltage/power issue - is it possible that the power source could be the issue and not the TV itself?

My understanding of this code is that it is a diagnostic failure of a voltage check. I made no changes to the outlet used (which is also used for various other electronics and I've never had an issue with any of them). I'm not willing to bring the set back home and fiddle with anything - In my mind it's defective or was poorly repaired. Moving a 2008 50" model around is no fun and I'm not a person that likes a hassle.. I'm mainly curious if the issue is "me" and not the two TVs i've had issues with. Once I get my 42" back I'm going to try hooking it up to some newer outlets in my house in case that is a possible issue.

thanks for any comments..
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post #2505 of 2514 Old 02-18-2017, 04:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SubEffect View Post
I don't know that folks read this thread much anymore, which is understandable. I've had a new development in my quest to fix my failing 42" 2010 model. The guy at the repair shop I took it to for an estimate offered to sell me a refurb'd 2008 50" model (TH-P50Z80U I believe). I decided to take him up on the deal and he gave me a 6 month warranty on the set. I got it home, turned it on and it was beautiful - very nice condition, nice picture, and the size increase was amazing. Played a few games for about an hour and turned it off. I turned it on this morning and - 10 blinks of death. It worked fine in the store, worked fine 2 days ago and it sat since Thursday night until this morning.

I returned it today and asked for my money back. Of course, when it was hooked up in the store, it came up without issues.

So, here's my question:

- Knowing the 10 blink code is specific a voltage/power issue - is it possible that the power source could be the issue and not the TV itself?

My understanding of this code is that it is a diagnostic failure of a voltage check. I made no changes to the outlet used (which is also used for various other electronics and I've never had an issue with any of them). I'm not willing to bring the set back home and fiddle with anything - In my mind it's defective or was poorly repaired. Moving a 2008 50" model around is no fun and I'm not a person that likes a hassle.. I'm mainly curious if the issue is "me" and not the two TVs i've had issues with. Once I get my 42" back I'm going to try hooking it up to some newer outlets in my house in case that is a possible issue.

thanks for any comments..
I repaired a 50PZ85u with 10 blinks. Just replaced the P-board. The plasma he sold you is a 2008. Get your money back and look for something used at least 2011 or later. Also I don't think even $100 is worth fixing your 42 now that you've had a 50 but I bet putting a working A-board in the GT25 will fix it.
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post #2506 of 2514 Old 02-19-2017, 09:16 PM
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Just an update for those with the 10-blink problem where removing the VERY TINY capacitor on either MC201 or MC301 fixes the problem: I'm at the 2 years and 4 months point now with NO capacitor and the set is still running fine. I DID buy the replacement capacitor, but never installed it because I just didn't think I could solder it in place without bridging the two connections. It is REALLY tiny!

So far, just removed the ONE capacitor (on MC201, I think it was). Haven't touched MC301, but I'm expecting to have to do that at some point...
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post #2507 of 2514 Old 02-20-2017, 04:38 PM
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Originally Posted by MajorSkeptic View Post
Just an update for those with the 10-blink problem where removing the VERY TINY capacitor on either MC201 or MC301 fixes the problem: I'm at the 2 years and 4 months point now with NO capacitor and the set is still running fine. I DID buy the replacement capacitor, but never installed it because I just didn't think I could solder it in place without bridging the two connections. It is REALLY tiny!

So far, just removed the ONE capacitor (on MC201, I think it was). Haven't touched MC301, but I'm expecting to have to do that at some point...
Wow that's crazy! Just pull one Cap and it's been working great all that time.
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post #2508 of 2514 Old 02-24-2017, 03:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Test Ickles View Post
I repaired a 50PZ85u with 10 blinks. Just replaced the P-board. The plasma he sold you is a 2008. Get your money back and look for something used at least 2011 or later. Also I don't think even $100 is worth fixing your 42 now that you've had a 50 but I bet putting a working A-board in the GT25 will fix it.
Thanks for the comments. Although the 2008 50" was nice (I actually have the 42" 2008 version, but it's 720p) I did return it because I didn't feel it was a solid "investment" given that I no longer trusted the guy's ability to repair plasmas.

As for the 42" - I'll start looking for used models. I've been sitting on going OLED for a while now, so honestly I'm at the point of just waiting for prices to drop back near $1,500 on that LG 55" B6 model, or try Amazon Warehouse deals to snag it instead of sinking more cash into used/repairing plasmas - although I was going to use the 42" in the basement so I would still like something decent - the timing on its demise was bad...
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post #2509 of 2514 Old 02-24-2017, 05:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SubEffect View Post
Thanks for the comments. Although the 2008 50" was nice (I actually have the 42" 2008 version, but it's 720p) I did return it because I didn't feel it was a solid "investment" given that I no longer trusted the guy's ability to repair plasmas.

As for the 42" - I'll start looking for used models. I've been sitting on going OLED for a while now, so honestly I'm at the point of just waiting for prices to drop back near $1,500 on that LG 55" B6 model, or try Amazon Warehouse deals to snag it instead of sinking more cash into used/repairing plasmas - although I was going to use the 42" in the basement so I would still like something decent - the timing on its demise was bad...
Good plan. LG OLED is great.
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post #2510 of 2514 Old 03-19-2017, 10:26 AM
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Pulling the Wires from the P-Board

Quote:
Originally Posted by Test Ickles View Post
I repaired a 50PZ85u with 10 blinks. Just replaced the P-board. The plasma he sold you is a 2008. Get your money back and look for something used at least 2011 or later. Also I don't think even $100 is worth fixing your 42 now that you've had a 50 but I bet putting a working A-board in the GT25 will fix it.


Hello - I know nothing about electronics but want to give replacing the P-board a try (having it repaired, actually) to fix my TH-50PZ85U. My problem is removing the current board. How do you remove the wiring harnesses? Some have a piece that you press down on and they release, which are of course no problem. However there are several others that have no such release that I can tell. These types will contain say 4 to 8 wires in a straight line. There are little slots on either end in which I can my finger nails, but I can't seem to pull them out. I'm not pulling too hard for fear of breaking something.


We bought a 55" LG (mid level model - $700 at Costco) and were extremely disappointed. One of the reasons is the motion blur, and to get 120Hz native refresh on the newer TVs is expensive.


SO! We though we'd give this a try first.


Thanks!
Lee
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post #2511 of 2514 Old 03-19-2017, 12:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WiringHarness View Post
Hello - I know nothing about electronics but want to give replacing the P-board a try (having it repaired, actually) to fix my TH-50PZ85U. My problem is removing the current board. How do you remove the wiring harnesses? Some have a piece that you press down on and they release, which are of course no problem. However there are several others that have no such release that I can tell. These types will contain say 4 to 8 wires in a straight line. There are little slots on either end in which I can my finger nails, but I can't seem to pull them out. I'm not pulling too hard for fear of breaking something.


We bought a 55" LG (mid level model - $700 at Costco) and were extremely disappointed. One of the reasons is the motion blur, and to get 120Hz native refresh on the newer TVs is expensive.


SO! We though we'd give this a try first.


Thanks!
Lee
I tried this video and failed miserably. The small chip was just too small for my soldering skill so I ended up buying a working board on Ebay. The video doesn't show him taking it out unfortunately. It's been over a year since I fixed it but if I remember right I fretted a little bit too on how to unplug. I think I just pulled them off but be careful and study over it before you pull to hard.
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post #2512 of 2514 Old Today, 09:39 AM
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Thank you for your reply! I saw one video where the person pinched the wires themselves near the plastic harness. It was on a different model, however. I tried that but without applying too much pressure - it didn't seem right.
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post #2513 of 2514 Old Today, 09:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Richard Berg View Post
New P board ($50 on eBay) fixed it! Thanks to everyone who's posted troubleshooting tips on this forum!


Hello - I know nothing about electronics but want to give replacing the P-board a try (having it repaired, actually) to fix my TH-50PZ85U. My problem is removing the current board. How do you remove the wiring harnesses? Some have a piece that you press down on and they release, which are of course no problem. However there are several others that have no such release that I can tell. These types will contain say 4 to 8 wires in a straight line. There are little slots on either end in which I can my finger nails, but I can't seem to pull them out. I'm not pulling too hard for fear of breaking something.


We bought a 55" LG (mid level model - $700 at Costco) and were extremely disappointed. One of the reasons is the motion blur, and to get 120Hz native refresh on the newer TVs is expensive.


SO! We though we'd give this a try first.


Thanks!
Lee
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post #2514 of 2514 Old Today, 01:17 PM
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Pioneer Plasma Pro 1120HD Dead or Not???

I have read several threads about their plasma's taking a long time to turn on or for the picture to show up. Mine turns on, sound is fine, remote is fine. The issue is it takes about an hour for the picture to show. Pixel by pixel and then eventually the picture is fine. The TV is about 12 years old. Pay a lot for it at the time. Originally I was going to buy a new LCD but after more research I am thinking maybe I can fix this TV but I am not sure...thus my post here.

Can someone diagnose my problem?
Is is a power supply issue?
Capacitor issue? I haven't opened her up yet but I will once I determine if its worth it.
Z-sustain or Y-sustain?
Main board?

Here are two pictures. The black screen is when it first turns on. The second is after 30 mins. Another 30 min the picture is clear and fine.

I also have this as new thread in this forum but thought maybe it should be here.
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