Master thread for Panasonic plasma not turning on - Page 85 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #2521 of 2547 Old 04-04-2017, 06:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Richard Berg View Post
Thin ribbon cables: open the friction tab (part of the board), ribbon will slide out freely w/o force

Thick copper wires crimped into plastic connectors: squeeze the tabs on each side (part of the connector), give it a good tug while rocking side to side
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Originally Posted by TW2005 View Post
just pull out but probably wedged in well. try rocking slightly or a small flat screwdriver may helpp lever it up slightly to get it started, just try a little either end. If pulling the cables, take it easy with the finer ones. Then if it's the same board and modules that fail as the PZ80, try the desoldering tip I just made but take photos of the board so you know how it all goes in case you have a desoldering accident
Thank you both. Combined use of fingernails in the sides, grabbing from the top and bottom, and cinching the wires from the sides - and rocking gently until one of those worked - worked on all four or five of these things.


TW2005 - is that your wife?
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post #2522 of 2547 Old 04-04-2017, 07:50 PM
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Thank you both. Combined use of fingernails in the sides, grabbing from the top and bottom, and cinching the wires from the sides - and rocking gently until one of those worked - worked on all four or five of these things.


TW2005 - is that your wife?
All's Well / Not Well -


So - in removing the 6 screws that hold the P-Board on (I took the support off with the board) one of the screws fell behind the panel with many of the inputs and outputs. I'm not so worried about the screw itself, but do I need to worry about causing a short or some other electrical issue back there?


Ugh.
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post #2523 of 2547 Old 04-05-2017, 09:46 AM
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My Panasonic ST60 shuts off after a few minutes after power on and I get the 6 blink code I unplug re-plug Everything works fine then after about a minute it happens again powers off 6 blink code This was happening once in awhile but now its happening more often

Also I don't hear the Tick! noise when powering the TV ON/OFF like I hear on my other plasma just powers ON/OFF silently like LED/LCD TV's

Last edited by ace54; 04-05-2017 at 06:49 PM.
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post #2524 of 2547 Old 04-07-2017, 06:48 PM
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http://www.brainchamber.com/2016/03/...v-blink-codes/

Panasonic TV Blink Codes for All Panasonic Models
Panasonic Plasma TVs have a built in circuit for fault diagnostics. If a fault occurs on one of the internal circuits, the firmware in the TV will detect it and output an error in the form of a blinking LED lite. The exact error is represented by the number of blinks in each series of blinks. By using this fault error code, you can diagnose the problem with the TV without even opening it. First, be sure you are counting the blinks correctly – it is very important to correctly diagnosing the problem. To do that, turn the TV OFF, and then back on and count the number of times the LED blinks. Repeat the process to confirm, and then look up the error code on the table below. This will very quickly diagnose the problem and tell you what board needs to be replaced or repaired.

1blink STV 5v sense DG Board
2blinks 15v SOS D Board
3blinks 3.3v SOS D Board
4blinks Power SOS P Board
5blinks 5v SOS D Board
6blinks Driver SOS 1 SU / SD / SC Boards (SC energy recovery circuit)
7blinks Driver SOS 2 SU / SD / SS Boards (SC floating voltage area)
8blinks Driver SOS 3 SS Board (SS energy recovery circuit)
9blinks Panel Config. SOS
10blinks Sub 5v SOS / Main 3v SOS DG Board DTV 9v SOS / Tuner Power SOS
11blinks Fan SOS PB Board
12blinks Sound SOS H Board
13blinks Communication error DG Board with IC8001 (Pesks Lite 2)
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post #2525 of 2547 Old 04-09-2017, 09:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ace54 View Post
http://www.brainchamber.com/2016/03/...v-blink-codes/

Panasonic TV Blink Codes for All Panasonic Models
Panasonic Plasma TVs have a built in circuit for fault diagnostics. If a fault occurs on one of the internal circuits, the firmware in the TV will detect it and output an error in the form of a blinking LED lite. The exact error is represented by the number of blinks in each series of blinks. By using this fault error code, you can diagnose the problem with the TV without even opening it. First, be sure you are counting the blinks correctly – it is very important to correctly diagnosing the problem. To do that, turn the TV OFF, and then back on and count the number of times the LED blinks. Repeat the process to confirm, and then look up the error code on the table below. This will very quickly diagnose the problem and tell you what board needs to be replaced or repaired.

1blink STV 5v sense DG Board
2blinks 15v SOS D Board
3blinks 3.3v SOS D Board
4blinks Power SOS P Board
5blinks 5v SOS D Board
6blinks Driver SOS 1 SU / SD / SC Boards (SC energy recovery circuit)
7blinks Driver SOS 2 SU / SD / SS Boards (SC floating voltage area)
8blinks Driver SOS 3 SS Board (SS energy recovery circuit)
9blinks Panel Config. SOS
10blinks Sub 5v SOS / Main 3v SOS DG Board DTV 9v SOS / Tuner Power SOS
11blinks Fan SOS PB Board
12blinks Sound SOS H Board
13blinks Communication error DG Board with IC8001 (Pesks Lite 2)
I've fixed two Panny's with bad SC boards. In both cases I sent all three boards to Oleg. SU,SD and SC boards. He's an ebay repair man. Reason to send all three is because SU and SD buffers need to be tested. If one of those are bad too they can take out your repaired SC board. Not sure if Oleg works on ST60's but if not him there are other's that may fix that board. Other option would be to test the buffers yourself and if ok look for a used working SC board. Good luck.
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post #2526 of 2547 Old 04-09-2017, 10:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Test Ickles View Post
I've fixed two Panny's with bad SC boards. In both cases I sent all three boards to Oleg. SU,SD and SC boards. He's an ebay repair man. Reason to send all three is because SU and SD buffers need to be tested. If one of those are bad too they can take out your repaired SC board. Not sure if Oleg works on ST60's but if not him there are other's that may fix that board. Other option would be to test the buffers yourself and if ok look for a used working SC board. Good luck.

it's been working for the past three days since I left it unplugged overnight that's another problem it stops working at random times not often so even I send the boards to be checked chances are they will all pass tests I have to wait for it to completely fail

Most likely a capacitor somewhere getting weak any other part would either work or not
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post #2527 of 2547 Old 04-29-2017, 04:48 AM
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Hi all,

I tried searching the thread, but there were minimal answers. There was a thunderstorm over night, and now my p60u50 won't turn on at all. The cable box was damaged as well. Everything on the surge protector works, but the cable box and tv is dead. It probably went through the coaxial cable, then through to the hdmi to my tv. The standby light is solid red, and does not blink. If the standby light is on, that means the power supply is good right? I think others in this thread have replaced the A board with success. The power button is unresponsive and doesn't do anything. Remote does not work either. I could try doing that since I like the picture on the plasma so much. Is there any thing else I can do?

Thanks.
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post #2528 of 2547 Old 06-08-2017, 09:14 PM
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Hi all,

I tried searching the thread, but there were minimal answers. There was a thunderstorm over night, and now my p60u50 won't turn on at all. The cable box was damaged as well. Everything on the surge protector works, but the cable box and tv is dead. It probably went through the coaxial cable, then through to the hdmi to my tv. The standby light is solid red, and does not blink. If the standby light is on, that means the power supply is good right? I think others in this thread have replaced the A board with success. The power button is unresponsive and doesn't do anything. Remote does not work either. I could try doing that since I like the picture on the plasma so much. Is there any thing else I can do?

Thanks.


Even though I didn't have a storm involved, I have the SAME issue... NO BLINKS and set powers off after 10 seconds, here is my original post that I ended up mistakenly posting somewhere else and got barked at by the moderator. I hope someone on this thread can help us.



I have a TC-P55ST30. Has served me well for almost 6 years. Two months ago, it shut off by itself after about 2 minutes turn on time. It would not power on again unless the power cord was unhooked and then re-inserted. Even with this, it would only stay powered on for 20 seconds and then turn off. The power light remains on STEADY, no blinking, after shut off. I called PTS electronics in Indiana, the only reputable place for repairing plasma TV's that I have researched. Their techs said that the culprit was most probably the "A" board. I called in some help to dismount it, and then I took it apart and mailed in the board. After testing it, they found no problem, and are going to return it to me for their testing fee. Now they are stating that it could be my SC (SUS) board, possibly even my power board in the upper middle. Before doing anything drastic and mailing both the other boards in, they suggested that I try to post here to see if anyone could help either from experience or from a stepwise elimination approach. I don't want to junk this set just yet. I have the set already leaning against the wall. If I should wait for the A board to be returned, to do some basic diagnostics please inform. Thanks again.


JB
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post #2529 of 2547 Old 06-09-2017, 09:26 AM
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Originally Posted by jagalag View Post
Even though I didn't have a storm involved, I have the SAME issue... NO BLINKS and set powers off after 10 seconds, here is my original post that I ended up mistakenly posting somewhere else and got barked at by the moderator. I hope someone on this thread can help us.



I have a TC-P55ST30. Has served me well for almost 6 years. Two months ago, it shut off by itself after about 2 minutes turn on time. It would not power on again unless the power cord was unhooked and then re-inserted. Even with this, it would only stay powered on for 20 seconds and then turn off. The power light remains on STEADY, no blinking, after shut off. I called PTS electronics in Indiana, the only reputable place for repairing plasma TV's that I have researched. Their techs said that the culprit was most probably the "A" board. I called in some help to dismount it, and then I took it apart and mailed in the board. After testing it, they found no problem, and are going to return it to me for their testing fee. Now they are stating that it could be my SC (SUS) board, possibly even my power board in the upper middle. Before doing anything drastic and mailing both the other boards in, they suggested that I try to post here to see if anyone could help either from experience or from a stepwise elimination approach. I don't want to junk this set just yet. I have the set already leaning against the wall. If I should wait for the A board to be returned, to do some basic diagnostics please inform. Thanks again.


JB
Message this guy. If your good with a meter he can have you run a couple test to see if it's the SC board. SC boards are usually a seven blink code so I have my doubts on SC board. OLEG fixed two SC boards for me on a 65VT25 and a 50GT30.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/TNPA5351-TNP...AAAOSwv0tU6U1V
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post #2530 of 2547 Old 06-09-2017, 09:47 AM
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Actually it could be SC. See post #3 then see slide 41. SC or SS most common for a no blink code.
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=30502
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post #2531 of 2547 Old 08-08-2017, 11:27 AM
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7 blinking lights of death (ZT60)

(I also posted this in the ZT60 thread)

So, I'm about 30 minutes into a movie last night on Blu ray when bam........ TV screen goes black and I get the flashing 7 lights of death. I can't turn it on or off using normal methods, so I unplug the power cord and let it sit for about 30 minutes. I then unplugged the two HDMI inputs, plugged the power cord back in, and the TV came on with no image (inputs unplugged). I turned it off, plugged the two HDMIs back in, turned it back on, and there was my movie right where I paused the Blu ray. I finished watching the movie (about 2 hours), and then turned the set off.

Is this a random incident, or the beginning of the end ...........

John
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post #2532 of 2547 Old 08-29-2017, 03:22 PM
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No picture on TC-P50S30

Hi all,

I have a Panasonic TC-P50S30.

The TV will turn on, and stay on, but will not activate the screen at all.

The LED stays on solid, and does not blink. The troubleshooting guide tells me that indicates it is locked. I'm not sure how specific I can get regarding the cause of the issue, because it's locked, and thus, no "blink code".

I suspect the SC, or "Y-board" is at fault. I also see some browning / discoloration on this board, appearing to indicate an overheat in some areas. However, looking on eBay for replacement / repairs of these boards, I have noticed they tend to be discolored. So I am wondering if they all look this way, and this is a red herring..

I'll add some pictures of the board, although they are not very good shots. Suggestions / opinions are welcome.
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post #2533 of 2547 Old 08-29-2017, 06:34 PM
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Originally Posted by heysoos View Post
Hi all,

I have a Panasonic TC-P50S30.

The TV will turn on, and stay on, but will not activate the screen at all.

The LED stays on solid, and does not blink. The troubleshooting guide tells me that indicates it is locked. I'm not sure how specific I can get regarding the cause of the issue, because it's locked, and thus, no "blink code".

I suspect the SC, or "Y-board" is at fault. I also see some browning / discoloration on this board, appearing to indicate an overheat in some areas. However, looking on eBay for replacement / repairs of these boards, I have noticed they tend to be discolored. So I am wondering if they all look this way, and this is a red herring..

I'll add some pictures of the board, although they are not very good shots. Suggestions / opinions are welcome.
Most common for a solid red is SC or SS. 2nd P board, 3rd A, Rarely panel. The brown on the board is normal. I'm getting this from an ST30 manual. Should be same for S30.
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post #2534 of 2547 Old 08-30-2017, 08:35 AM
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Most common for a solid red is SC or SS. 2nd P board, 3rd A, Rarely panel. The brown on the board is normal. I'm getting this from an ST30 manual. Should be same for S30.
Thank you for the response. Do you think it's worthwhile to purchase one of the diode / mosfet kits available, and replace the components? It's a $20 kit, vs. replacement board, being around $100. I'll be happy to test anything with my meter, if that will help diagnose it. I was leaning toward replacement, due to the way the board looks, but if you say it's normal, I may just get the kit. Did you look at the pictures? Some of the areas look pretty bad to me, but I'm an amateur..
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post #2535 of 2547 Old 08-30-2017, 04:47 PM
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Originally Posted by heysoos View Post
Thank you for the response. Do you think it's worthwhile to purchase one of the diode / mosfet kits available, and replace the components? It's a $20 kit, vs. replacement board, being around $100. I'll be happy to test anything with my meter, if that will help diagnose it. I was leaning toward replacement, due to the way the board looks, but if you say it's normal, I may just get the kit. Did you look at the pictures? Some of the areas look pretty bad to me, but I'm an amateur..
Here's a good thread with a similar problem and TV from the same year.
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=25925
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post #2536 of 2547 Old 08-30-2017, 05:13 PM
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Here's a good thread with a similar problem and TV from the same year.
Thanks again. Lots of good info in the thread. Much appreciated.
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post #2537 of 2547 Old 09-02-2017, 11:14 AM
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Thanks again. Lots of good info in the thread. Much appreciated.
Check for a short on SC2. Put your meter on beep and touch each pin on SC2 with one of the probes. If it beeps the board is shorted and needs repaired. I just got my SC board back from repair. Before repair SC2 was shorted, after it was not and TV is back up and running. Also check for a short on Q661. A short here will indicate problems with the buffer boards. In my case Q661 was not shorted so I just had the SC repaired.
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post #2538 of 2547 Old 09-03-2017, 12:11 PM
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65VT60 cut off last night. No lights at all.
Unplugged this morning for awhile. Plugged back in....nothing. No lights, no clicks. She's dead, Jim.
Power supply, maybe?
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post #2539 of 2547 Old 09-04-2017, 06:49 PM
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65VT60 cut off last night. No lights at all.
Unplugged this morning for awhile. Plugged back in....nothing. No lights, no clicks. She's dead, Jim.
Power supply, maybe?
I don't have a manual for that TV but either P or A board. P board on Ebay is cheap. Might be worth the roll of the dice. Hate to recommend the throw boards at it approach though.
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post #2540 of 2547 Old 10-05-2017, 04:32 PM
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Hi!

My 55VT60 have a problem - it boots up too long. 10-15 minutes. There is a logo on the screen after turn on, it hang for about 10 min, then slowly appear home page and a normal picture. After this, the TV is operating normally, except a delayed remote commands reaction 5-10 sec. I try factory reset, disconnect all cables and usb devices from it, completely disconnect the TV from mains for 6 hours. Latest firmware is installed. Built-in service diagnostic tool says no errors. No red blinks/SOS history in service menu, all settings are factory default. How to cure this bad situation? Probably A-board is defective, maybe a clock gen on the PEAKS 4 IC8000 slows down... This is really very frustrating...
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post #2541 of 2547 Old 10-05-2017, 06:30 PM
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Hi!

My 55VT60 have a problem - it boots up too long. 10-15 minutes. There is a logo on the screen after turn on, it hang for about 10 min, then slowly appear home page and a normal picture. After this, the TV is operating normally, except a delayed remote commands reaction 5-10 sec. I try factory reset, disconnect all cables and usb devices from it, completely disconnect the TV from mains for 6 hours. Latest firmware is installed. Built-in service diagnostic tool says no errors. No red blinks/SOS history in service menu, all settings are factory default. How to cure this bad situation? Probably A-board is defective, maybe a clock gen on the PEAKS 4 IC8000 slows down... This is really very frustrating...
The A board is the "brains". I would take a shot in the dark and replace that board. Let us know how much it costs for a used working board.
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post #2542 of 2547 Old 10-06-2017, 12:17 AM
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Used boards are $50-$70 on eBay, but is really hard to find. I have found two sets of boards from the TVs with broken screens and all the cases A-board was already sold out. Seems not only me have a problems with it.
The new one costs $400 - more, than top motherboard for desktop computer
I`ll try to repair it on components level first(have a service manual and enough skills), dump all eprom settings from it, that comes for my screen panel from the factory.
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post #2543 of 2547 Old 10-06-2017, 05:59 PM
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Used boards are $50-$70 on eBay, but is really hard to find. I have found two sets of boards from the TVs with broken screens and all the cases A-board was already sold out. Seems not only me have a problems with it.
The new one costs $400 - more, than top motherboard for desktop computer
I`ll try to repair it on components level first(have a service manual and enough skills), dump all eprom settings from it, that comes for my screen panel from the factory.
Let us know how it turns out. I have 65VT60.
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post #2544 of 2547 Old 10-08-2017, 03:37 PM
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For now I have a dump from main flash MT29F1G08ABAE. It reads normally, there is no instability or "FF" areas, seems the flash is in good working condition. This says, that the problem is in the main SOC - PEAKS Pro 4(MN2WS02351B). The serial number and power on hours are stored in an OTP area of main flash and cannot be reprogrammed. So, if I will find and replace my board with used one, I will loose my serial number and PON information. The first thing is non vicious, but the second can lead to some bad things - color and brightness variations because of incorrect aging of the panel. I can buy a new programmed flash from Panasonic, it have all firmware and blank OTP area, in which I can program my original serial an PON hours info. This flash costs $40.
The other parameters(timings, Vsus, color settings and other) for panel itself are in EPROM on GCX chip. This eprom can be easily resoldered on the new main, even if it comes from 50 or 65 inch TVs.
So, I need working A-board from any VT60 series TV or a PEAKS PRO 4 IC to restore my board. There is no other methods to bring my TV alive. So, I go to monitor the net for a board or IC needed.
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post #2545 of 2547 Old Yesterday, 05:02 AM
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TH-42PZ800U 10 Blinking Red Lights on Power UP

10 blinking red lights on power up

Model: TH-42PZ800U

AC/DC Board thingy: ETX2MM702MF H
NPX702MF-1

This was my solution for 10 Blinking Red Lights after turn on.

MFG Date: May 2008

Obtained new May 2008, and average use 10 hours per day since new; no problems to date; until last week.

Environment: Heavy dust environment

The fix: Take the back cover off and clean out the dirt - many of the components on the board were not even visible for all the dirt.

Tools used for cleaning, both are important:

1) Portable Hoover Vacuum, with narrow crevice tool. This removed most of the dirt in all areas, including the fan blades, and the surfaces of all heat sinks, and all visible components.

2) Compressed air can: One large can as a minimum; I used the long very slender tubes to get behind components and reach places the vacuum would not go.

Pict 111: This is after the first cleaning. I actually clean it twice. Sorry no true before or true after pictures.

Pic 114: The two square components (transformers?), with the yellow tape bindings may or may not have thermal fuses under the tape on the back side of those transformers next to the circuit board. These are not visible, unless the transformers are removed and the yellow tape is remove. This is just one of many examples of using the compressed air can with the tube attached. The skinny tube will slide into and next to the yellow tape to the back of the circuit board and blow out the dust accumulated on the back side of those transformers.

Pic 123: The 6 silver heat sinks visible below the input connections were covered solid in dust, almost invisible for the dirt load. There are more of those behind the black speaker boxes.

Pic 125: The power switch below the left speakers box. The switch is black with a tiny white connecter; that entire area was covered in dust, and hid the switch from view. After removing 98% of the dust with the vacuum, the remaining dust was blown out by using the tube on each side of the black switch. It was a little bit amazing the amount of dirt that came out of the inside of that switch.

It does take a lot of time and patience to do this. Almost two hours on the fans alone. Overall, about 8 hours.

There are numerous possibilities for 10 blinking lights on power up-see document attached - whoops it will not let me upload this, must be a copyright? All stuff I am not going to spend the time or money to do.

In this case just a good cleaning appears to have done the trick. If it stops working again, that means there will be a new TV to replace it.

With basically 10 years use at 10 hours a day, I have made only two adjustments to the TV after the first month of original adjustment settings. About 2 years ago I went +1 to picture control and last month I went +1 on brightness control. This have been the best TV I have ever owned.

Can’t wait until Panasonic brings back something back to the market, that I will like.
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Last edited by HoustonPerson; Yesterday at 05:05 AM.
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post #2546 of 2547 Old Yesterday, 06:22 PM
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Wow first dusting fix I have seen! Let us know if it holds up.
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post #2547 of 2547 Old Yesterday, 07:21 PM
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For what it's worth I ordered a Sony 940E yesterday, moving the ZT60 to the bedroom. A 75" panel in the main room is gonna be nice. Anyway, I was explaining my situation to the BB employee in the Magnolia section of the store. This guy also does electronic repairs. He mirrored what I have read here as well concerning the thermal paste. He said because my unit always comes back on after a 20 to 30 minute unplug, he firmly believes I do not have a bad board, but that most likely the thermal paste behind the main SS board has dried out and cracked, interrupting the cooling of the heat sinks and causing the heat sensors to think the unit is overheating when it's really just a case of the designed cooling not fully taking place. He said he has seen that on a few ZT60's they repaired. Makes sense to me.
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