The Official Pioneer 9G non-Elite KURO Owner's Discussion Thread - Page 139 - AVS Forum
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post #4141 of 15006 Old 10-17-2008, 08:20 PM
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Hi,

I have a question regarding buzzing. I am wondering if my tv is within normal operating noise levels. I have a new 6020. I have setup the picture settings as recommended for the burn-in dvd. When the dvd plays the white pictures, I hear a buzzing noise that is audible from the front (4ft away). At 8 feet, the noise is noise is very hard to hear. As the pictures change to darker colors, the buzzing noise is reduced significantly.

Is my tv normal? Please provide any experience you have running the burn-in dvd and buzzing noise level in regards to the different colors.

Should I return?

Thanks,
Mike

Sorry for the cross posts.
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post #4142 of 15006 Old 10-17-2008, 08:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by video313 View Post

A question to 5020 owners.
My unit has zoom defect.
Please, check 1080p zoom on your 5020.
Do you have the same problem?

Left - 1080p 2.4:1 movie
Middle - Zoom as it should be
Right - Zoom on 5020 (distortion)
Thank you!
]

Yes, the 5020 doesn't have a linear zoom function as it should.

What is dead can never die. Long live my 151!
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post #4143 of 15006 Old 10-17-2008, 10:23 PM
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post #4144 of 15006 Old 10-17-2008, 10:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CETA1 View Post

Just talkin out loud here so bare with me. I have the 6020 since Thursday afternoon. I have another project going on at the same time so I have not been able to devote a lot of time since Thursday to my new set.

I seem to prefer optimum mode but I also seem to be playing with the different modes more than I am used to.

The blacks and detail is quite an improvement over my 5071 and I love the the 60 verses 50 screen.

I seem to be desiring just a slight amount more brightness or something. Can't quite put my finger on it. The depth of color, black and details are all there but I can't say I am 100% sold yet. I am trying to figure out what is slightly off here in my mind (maybe my mind is the issue).

I have watched Transformers, Speed Racer and parts of Sleeping Beauty and the night time and evening shots are all spot on to me but in daytime outdoor scenes there is something not quite right to me.

Watching NFL pregame on ESPN and the studio shots are ever so slightly muted. I am not talking I want LCD here but something seems off to me.

I will continue to play around a little more with the different modes as well as read the manual throughly.

Maybe I am more of an Elite guy where I can make further adjustments?

Once again, just trying to get my arms around my thoughts here. Any input is appreciated.

Rick


Please dont take this the wrong way but,
To be perfectly honest, When I read that you were buying the 6020 a week or two ago, the first thing that came to my mind was that you would be posting something exactly like this a few day/week after you got it.

From some of your past posts about your taste (the one from a week or two ago when you said that the 6020 was the dullest and worst display in the whole store was a big one.), I thought to myself that you were definitly a "dynamic" viewer.
What I mean by that is that you are attracted to a sets ability to display super bright and "poppy" images as opposed to being closest to the standard, having better overall contrast, more accurate color, deeper blacks, etc.
I really should have warned you because I saw this coming.
You already had a low opinion of the 6020's performance and was focusing alot on its lack of being as bright as an LCD before you bought it so I was kinda curious to why you would buy it anyway and should have mentioned that you would probably not be happy with it when you said you bought it.

As for the Elite, I would reccommend that you not go down that road if you are looking for a very bright and "poppy" set.

But still, I am a little surprised that being an owner a non-Kuro Pioneer plasma (5071) you were not blown away by the 6020. I was blown away by my 6020 and I had a 5080 before it.
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post #4145 of 15006 Old 10-18-2008, 08:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coltsfreak18 View Post

Yes, the 5020 doesn't have a linear zoom function as it should.

Thank you.
Sounds not optimistic.
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post #4146 of 15006 Old 10-18-2008, 09:21 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chadmak09 View Post

As for the Elite, I would reccommend that you not go down that road if you are looking for a very bright and "poppy" set.

But still, I am a little surprised that being an owner a non-Kuro Pioneer plasma (5071) you were not blown away by the 6020. I was blown away by my 6020 and I had a 5080 before it.

Hi Chad!

You have to trust me on this one. I prefer Plasma to LCD. The 6020 was a very good set. Like I said earlier the blacks and detail were the best I have ever witnessed on any display.

This set was "much" better in my house than at the store. I had moments of awe and a couple moments of ehhh with this set. It was real close to a keeper.

Now, what I would like to understand from a technical standpoint is that my 5071 has a bit more of a pop to it in standard and movie mode(I like standard for Football). Of course the blacks and other advancements do not compare to the 6020.

We keep saying "not bright enough" or more "pop". The 6020 is more than bright enough and so is the 5071. My question is in the glass. And this is a general question that I really don't know the answer to so forgive me here.
Is the glass always clear on all plasmas or do different mfg's use a different tint level on the glass? I wonder what if anything changed from the non-Kuro to Kuro line in regards to the glass? Once again, there is slightly more "pop" on the 5071 and once again I am not talking about blacks or the other really good improvements the 6020 has over the 5071. Is it possible the glass is slightly darker on the Kuro than the non-Kuro? The set is bright enough. I am sure of it. That's why I am asking about the glass.

So to answer your question I really have enjoyed my older 5071 and would ultimately like to stay with Plasma. I went with the 6020 because of my enjoyment with the 5071 and how could I go wrong with a set two generations newer, correct? It had everything to do with past experience with PDP and brand trust (Pioneer) and ignoring the store demo due to major windows all around.

I am just really curious about the glass question as maybe someone will know the answer because in my heart and I could totally be wrong here is it's not the brightness of the display but something different with the glass.

I really do want to stay with Plasma. I just want to see what CES brings us before making a decision now and I will have to readjust to the 50 again.

The 6020 has some very fine qualities and there were just a couple of areas that I felt were not quite right for me.

And by the way, the 6020 left and the 5071 went back into my living room and I could cry. I can't believe how small it looks now.

May I ask why you returned your 6020 and went with the Elite?

Thanks again.
-Rick
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post #4147 of 15006 Old 10-18-2008, 10:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CETA1 View Post

Hi Chad!

You have to trust me on this one. I prefer Plasma to LCD. The 6020 was a very good set. Like I said earlier the blacks and detail were the best I have ever witnessed on any display.

This set was "much" better in my house than at the store. I had moments of awe and a couple moments of ehhh with this set. It was real close to a keeper.

Now, what I would like to understand from a technical standpoint is that my 5071 has a bit more of a pop to it in standard and movie mode(I like standard for Football). Of course the blacks and other advancements do not compare to the 6020.

We keep saying "not bright enough" or more "pop". The 6020 is more than bright enough and so is the 5071. My question is in the glass. And this is a general question that I really don't know the answer to so forgive me here.
Is the glass always clear on all plasmas or do different mfg's use a different tint level on the glass? I wonder what if anything changed from the non-Kuro to Kuro line in regards to the glass? Once again, there is slightly more "pop" on the 5071 and once again I am not talking about blacks or the other really good improvements the 6020 has over the 5071. Is it possible the glass is slightly darker on the Kuro than the non-Kuro? The set is bright enough. I am sure of it. That's why I am asking about the glass.

So to answer your question I really have enjoyed my older 5071 and would ultimately like to stay with Plasma. I went with the 6020 because of my enjoyment with the 5071 and how could I go wrong with a set two generations newer, correct? It had everything to do with past experience with PDP and brand trust (Pioneer) and ignoring the store demo due to major windows all around.

I am just really curious about the glass question as maybe someone will know the answer because in my heart and I could totally be wrong here is it's not the brightness of the display but something different with the glass.

I really do want to stay with Plasma. I just want to see what CES brings us before making a decision now and I will have to readjust to the 50 again.

The 6020 has some very fine qualities and there were just a couple of areas that I felt were not quite right for me.

And by the way, the 6020 left and the 5071 went back into my living room and I could cry. I can't believe how small it looks now.

May I ask why you returned your 6020 and went with the Elite?

Thanks again.
-Rick

Again you are so right my friend. Before I thought about buying another pdp, I had the 5070 in my living room and the 4280 in my bed room. The only reason I got rid of the 5070 is because the 4280 looked better with its black levels and I like that. So, I decided how could I go wrong with a new 9th gen set in the living room since the 4280 was so good. Finally got a 6020, and to me my 5070 and 4280 had a little more pop to it. You are right it is not the brightness of the display because it is bright enough. It just lacks that little extra pop that I am getting with my 4280 and what I use to get with my 5070. I am having mine calibrated this Thursday and hope this helps.

With all that said, I am still happy with the 6020 with out calibration because with certain material it does pop. However, if I can get the extra umph! out of it with calibration then that is what I will do. If this does not satisfy me, I will still be very happy with this set for a very long time to come. However, I do not love it as much as I loved my 5070 and 4280.
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post #4148 of 15006 Old 10-18-2008, 10:28 AM
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CETA1

Just an overall comment:

the5020, 6020 and 111fd & 151fd are great sets. However one thing Pioneer did not give us the ability of is bringing that 'POP' factor or extra brightness into our pictures when the occassion calls for it. Yes. there are times when i'm sure almost everyone would enjoy that in 'Standard' setting.Not even the 'POP" but to get that brightness.
Everyone views their Plasmas differently, content wise and room condition wise. BOTTOMLINE: it's all about eye appeal in some cases PIONEER may not be the way to go, even though it's the BEST HDTV on the market in many ways.
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post #4149 of 15006 Old 10-18-2008, 11:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bushman4 View Post

CETA1

Just an overall comment:

the5020, 6020 and 111fd & 151fd are great sets. However one thing Pioneer did not give us the ability of is bringing that 'POP' factor or extra brightness into our pictures when the occassion calls for it. Yes. there are times when i'm sure almost everyone would enjoy that in 'Standard' setting.Not even the 'POP" but to get that brightness.
Everyone views their Plasmas differently, content wise and room condition wise. BOTTOMLINE: it's all about eye appeal in some cases PIONEER may not be the way to go, even though it's the BEST HDTV on the market in many ways.

I found a lot more pop & whiter whites after professional calibration on the 6020!! But I know what you mean, before it was calibrated it just wasn't quite there (in movie mode). But now it is!!
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post #4150 of 15006 Old 10-18-2008, 11:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Qdog View Post

I read that Pioneer quit making their Kuro Elite panels and has Panasonic making them now. Does anyone know if this is true?
On a different note, I have a very bright room with a lot of windows. Does anyone think I should not be using the Kuro here and use an LCD instead?
Thanks for the help.

nes' year pana. will b making the glass to Pioneer's standards!
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post #4151 of 15006 Old 10-18-2008, 11:43 AM
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lately ive been watching hockey on my 6020 and ive been noticing this "dirty screen effect" when the action is going back and forth. does anyone else experience this, or do i just have super sensitive eyesight. ive seen this talked about other pioneer tv models but never on the 20 series or the elites. is this normal for a plasma set (poor whites)?
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post #4152 of 15006 Old 10-18-2008, 11:45 AM
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Do you think the 5020FD can pass the THX certification test. I was at my local tv store and he was trying to persuade me into getting the Panasonic 800u because of its THX certification. He went on later to say that the Elite PRO models could but the 5020 couldn't pass it. I was personally leaning towards the 5020 since the Pany cant even match it in black levels. Any opinions?
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post #4153 of 15006 Old 10-18-2008, 03:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by florida61 View Post

Do you think the 5020FD can pass the THX certification test. I was at my local tv store and he was trying to persuade me into getting the Panasonic 800u because of its THX certification. He went on later to say that the Elite PRO models could but the 5020 couldn't pass it. I was personally leaning towards the 5020 since the Pany cant even match it in black levels. Any opinions?

the 5020 probably needs a grayscale calibration to pass. reason why ppl are seeing dirty whites could be that the grayscale is pushing red.
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post #4154 of 15006 Old 10-18-2008, 03:08 PM
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I noticed some red push also, display the grey ramp bars and it does not look totally neutral grey, there is some colour in there. Also noticable if you watch a black & white movie. Knocking back R-values can get a more neutral grey ramp although I understand for the best results you need light meter. I think the sliders needs to be finer adjustment also perhaps in the SM the ISF calibrator has finer adjustments?

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post #4155 of 15006 Old 10-18-2008, 07:42 PM
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Quote:


Originally Posted by video313
A question to 5020 owners.
My unit has zoom defect.
Please, check 1080p zoom on your 5020.
Do you have the same problem?

Left - 1080p 2.4:1 movie
Middle - Zoom as it should be
Right - Zoom on 5020 (distortion)
Thank you!

Heh. You're right, never really checked it but the zoom sucks.
Good thing it's a feature I'd never touch.

Quote:
Originally Posted by smithdj86 View Post

Thanks for the good info.....I will be watching tv with the 6020 for the first time this weeked (just finished with the burn in...I am at about 110hrs is this sufficient?) I may opt to have a grayscale calibration as I do enjoy a "pop" maybe only because I have been watching a 42" samsung newer lcd that has corrupted my eye to true accuracy?. I have found with wine and music that the more you know about what your hearing and tasting, the more you understand it and enjoy it. I am a novice when it comes to plasmas, I am sure I will appreciate this tv and it will grow on me.

The adjustments on this set are fine for a lot of eyeball adjustments even without a full-scale calibration. You can bump up saturation easily with color and adjust for what might look like reddish or yellowish skins tones with a few clicks on tint etc.

If you're coming from an uncalibrated lcd you're probably used to brighter less accurate color. Enjoying more accurate settings really is an "acquired taste" and is particularly suited to watching movies. When you watch a movie in a theater do you see as much "pop" as a television show?

There is a reason manufacturers include higher temp A/V modes. The high level of enthusiasts and pros on this board tend to accept nothing less than strictly "accurate" reproduction however these other A/V modes are designed to offer some choices for different material and tastes.

If you watch the skin tones closely and look at the detail in dark areas of images though you'll generally see that movie is the most accurate mode by a pretty good margin. If you want brighter whites on some material you can first go to "middle" temp Optimum or to Game mode which I've found also to be a safe bet when you find movie a little too flat for the material. Game seems to display dark detail a little better than Optimum and without edge enhancement. Check them both out for mid temp. Standard mode is also a choice here but it will also tend to add a little more artificial sharpness to the image than Game.

According to one pro reviewer by simple eyeball comparison he found optimum mode color "very close" in his own head to head comparison with the picture of a calibrated 8th gen Elite model. This review was without any calibration of the Non-Elite.
Quote:


Much to my chagrin as a card-carrying, “manual setup is best” videophile, Optimum mode produced an image that will please most users. In fact, the KURO PDP-6020FD’s subjective color in the Optimum mode came very close to the properly calibrated 60-inch Elite PRO-150FD (reviewed in HT’s May issue) which I parked beside it during my tests.

For an even brighter higher white picture you can go to Sport, Performance or Dynamic. The first 2 have the advantage of being easily adusted with picture controls while Dynamic is an auto, take it or leave it brightness mode.

One thing it seems most of these non movie-modes have in common is that they tend to use some degree of an s-shaped gamma curve to increase apparent contrast. This can give you pop and contrast effect esp. on brighter material but it sacrifices detail particularly in the dark areas. Get a calibration disk or just pickup a few calibration pattern images and you can easily adjust some of that detail back in using a combination of the brightness and contrast controls.

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post #4156 of 15006 Old 10-18-2008, 08:28 PM
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Originally Posted by jkcheng122 View Post

the 5020 probably needs a grayscale calibration to pass. reason why ppl are seeing dirty whites could be that the grayscale is pushing red.

I think the dirty whites are due to non-uniform application of the color filter or the AR coating. You can notice it on panning scenes with a solid block of lighter color. Not a deal-breaker, but annoying none the less. Lets hope they fix for the Pio-Sonic models next year.

9G KURO equipped.
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post #4157 of 15006 Old 10-18-2008, 08:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fahost View Post

Hi,

I have a question regarding buzzing. I am wondering if my tv is within normal operating noise levels. I have a new 6020. I have setup the picture settings as recommended for the burn-in dvd. When the dvd plays the white pictures, I hear a buzzing noise that is audible from the front (4ft away). At 8 feet, the noise is noise is very hard to hear. As the pictures change to darker colors, the buzzing noise is reduced significantly.

Is my tv normal? Please provide any experience you have running the burn-in dvd and buzzing noise level in regards to the different colors.

Should I return?

Thanks,
Mike

Sorry for the cross posts.

The buzzing is quite normal. If you look around this area of the forum there is a thread dedicated to Pioneer plasma buzzing. It doesn't bother most people. Only you can decide if it is annoying enough to return it. If you want my opinion, don't return, it's the best set out there excluding elites.

9G KURO equipped.
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post #4158 of 15006 Old 10-18-2008, 10:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PioBeer View Post

I think the dirty whites are due to non-uniform application of the color filter or the AR coating. You can notice it on panning scenes with a solid block of lighter color. Not a deal-breaker, but annoying none the less. Lets hope they fix for the Pio-Sonic models next year.

I have "streaking", on solid white scenes only, on my 5010 ...... more noticable also with pans. Interestingly, I can see where this would be described as "dirty whites" also. When I think of instances where my streaking showed up, the all white screen would appear "dirty" from the variation in the coating.......... same issue I believe, different way to describe it. I definitely feel it's the coating on the glass, unevenly applied. Let's hope the Panny glass eliminates this.

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post #4159 of 15006 Old 10-19-2008, 06:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Andy o View Post

I'd like to hear more about this. I'm gonna be connecting the TV to a PC via HDMI.

Something is going on with the TV in all modes that blurs text especially red. You can fix it by using PC mode which seems much clearer. PC mode has basic controls and doesn't seem to work with 24p sources. The color temperature is quite a bit on the cool side too.

When I get my PC back from the shop I'll take some pictures of the problem. If anyone wants to see the problem close up just go to any website with red text, AVS Forum works well. It's so bad you won't miss it.

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post #4160 of 15006 Old 10-19-2008, 06:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smolstre View Post

That's what I thought too!! When my 6020 was calibrated, it was done on movie mode and my settings turned out to be:
contrast +39
brightness -1
color +3
red tint +1
sharpness -15

done by David Abrams

I've seen this recommended on a few sites and a few others have had their TVs calibrated with + settings in the color. I think they do this because at -4 the blues aren't very saturated compared to red/geen. As a comprise they oversaturate Red/Green a bit more to get the blues a bit richer.

Of course this is only an educated guess, I'd be interested on the thoughts of a calibrator or a DIY'er about the color setting on these TVs.

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post #4161 of 15006 Old 10-19-2008, 06:54 AM
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Originally Posted by florida61 View Post

Do you think the 5020FD can pass the THX certification test. I was at my local tv store and he was trying to persuade me into getting the Panasonic 800u because of its THX certification. He went on later to say that the Elite PRO models could but the 5020 couldn't pass it. I was personally leaning towards the 5020 since the Pany cant even match it in black levels. Any opinions?

THX is really more marketing than anything else, however the salesman might actually be right. I don't think the 5020 would pass because of the color space of the 5020/6020, calibration or not. Still the colors will look pleasing just not as accurate as the Panasonic.

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post #4162 of 15006 Old 10-19-2008, 10:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fatbottom View Post

I noticed some red push also, display the grey ramp bars and it does not look totally neutral grey, there is some colour in there. Also noticable if you watch a black & white movie. Knocking back R-values can get a more neutral grey ramp although I understand for the best results you need light meter. I think the sliders needs to be finer adjustment also perhaps in the SM the ISF calibrator has finer adjustments?

What you are describing is not red push - it's simply too much red across the board. Red push is a color decoder problem - the color decoder controls how the display converts YCbCr or YPbPr to RGB. Kuro displays don't have red push.

The 9Gs I've measured run around 6150K with the warmest color temp setting selected and 7100-7200 with the next highest temp setting. So you have a choice of too much red/yellow or too much blue. Calibration will correct that.

Personally speaking, as a THX Certified video calibrator, I don't see anything about the Panasonic 800U that's better than the 9G Kuros which leads me to believe the 9G Kuros would have passed THX certification if they had been submitted. The 800U (THX Certified) Panasonic measures 5800K or a little lower for the warmest color temp setting and around 7100-7200K for the next highest setting. The 800Us primaries and secondaries are no better than the 9G Kuros out of the box.

The 9G Kuros have a MUCH FLATTER greyscale response than the 800Us - the 800Us have the red and blue going up and down as you move through the grayscale - green is usually fairly flat. The Kuros have all 3 colors almost perfectly flat - just a little divergence at 10% white. After calibration, the Kuros have about the flattest grayscale and lowest dE errors I've ever measured on anything. Far better than the 800U Panasonic before or after calibration.

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post #4163 of 15006 Old 10-19-2008, 10:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Patrick. View Post

THX is really more marketing than anything else, however the salesman might actually be right. I don't think the 5020 would pass because of the color space of the 5020/6020, calibration or not. Still the colors will look pleasing just not as accurate as the Panasonic.

THX is more than marketing - they do have standards for each certification program and the products do have to meet the standards before they will be passed. THX does not publish the standards because then anybody could produce products to meet the standards and claim the product will meet THX specs without ever submitting the products for certification. The standards established for the first year of a new program are (apparently) easier to comply with than the specs 2 or 3 or 5 years down the line when manufacturers get more familiar with the direction THX is heading with their standards/specs and design newer generations of products from the outset with intentions of meeting tougher THX specs/standards.

If you saw the THX testing lab and sat through the entire certification process for a single product, you'd realize THX is more than just marketing. Though if there were no marketing, there would be little or no value to the THX certification programs.

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post #4164 of 15006 Old 10-19-2008, 05:27 PM
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I have always enjoyed my 6020, but something about it just seemed a little off. The blacks are amazing and the picture is very nice, but it just seemed a little off. I tried to get adjusted to movie mode, thinking that maybe my previous viewing was the problem. Maybe I should have gotten the Elite?

Maybe I was the problem?

Well, after some calibration help from D-Nice (full calibration coming soon), I am completely in love with my 6020. Flesh tones finally look accurate (or close enough that it does not bother me.) The dim picture of the "stock" movie mode has been upgraded to a natural looking picture with much more pop. I had previously been substituting sharpness to enhance movie mode, but now I am able to back it almost all the way down. I am really happy with my 6020 now and I am glad I was able to save the money by not springing for the Elite.

If you find movie mode a little dim, I highly recommend getting your set calibrated, or at least purchase ControlCal and some inexpensive calibration equipment for yourself. The 6020 can produce the picture you want. Trust me, you are not the problem
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post #4165 of 15006 Old 10-19-2008, 06:30 PM
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'For an even brighter higher white picture you can go to Sport, Performance or Dynamic. The first 2 have the advantage of being easily adusted with picture controls while Dynamic is an auto, take it or leave it brightness mode.'


While your suggestion will improve the 'WHITES' don't expect it to bring itanywhere near BRIGHT
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post #4166 of 15006 Old 10-19-2008, 08:01 PM
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Quote:


'For an even brighter higher white picture you can go to Sport, Performance or Dynamic. The first 2 have the advantage of being easily adusted with picture controls while Dynamic is an auto, take it or leave it brightness mode.'


While your suggestion will improve the 'WHITES' don't expect it to bring itanywhere near BRIGHT

I posted "brighter and higher white". D-Nice posted earlier the numbers he measured for brightness in those modes.

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Actually they can achieve way above that. Performance mode, out of the box, pushes 63fL. On the Elites, the ISFccc modes are capable of 50fL+ of peak light output without clipping, discolorization, or loss of a linear grayscale or gamma.

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I think Sport is also capable of 58fL+ of peak light output. I'll have to check later today. Besides that, as you said, no other mode is capable of that high light output.

If you're wanting something brighter than that you should be looking to LCDs.

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post #4167 of 15006 Old 10-19-2008, 08:58 PM
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Originally Posted by dful4d View Post

i have always enjoyed my 6020, but something about it just seemed a little off. The blacks are amazing and the picture is very nice, but it just seemed a little off. I tried to get adjusted to movie mode, thinking that maybe my previous viewing was the problem. Maybe i should have gotten the elite?

Maybe i was the problem?

Well, after some calibration help from d-nice (full calibration coming soon), i am completely in love with my 6020. Flesh tones finally look accurate (or close enough that it does not bother me.) the dim picture of the "stock" movie mode has been upgraded to a natural looking picture with much more pop. I had previously been substituting sharpness to enhance movie mode, but now i am able to back it almost all the way down. I am really happy with my 6020 now and i am glad i was able to save the money by not springing for the elite.

If you find movie mode a little dim, i highly recommend getting your set calibrated, or at least purchase controlcal and some inexpensive calibration equipment for yourself. The 6020 can produce the picture you want. Trust me, you are not the problem

+1
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post #4168 of 15006 Old 10-20-2008, 06:54 AM
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yep. when set on advanced the jitter when watching Law & Order on TNT is unbearable.

i did flip between Off and Advance when the credits were scrolling on Matrix BD and noticed less judder on Advance.

it's rather odd that the motion issues happen while watching cable/sat, since it's not even supposed to engage for those situations.

I have to admit, I am finding the entire viewing experience disappointing. I blame my eyes more than the tv but not totally sure. yes, the picture looks great...until the camera moves....oh well, nothing I can do about it now. Anyone want a pioneer Kuro, still under warrenty for a great price? lol.....
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post #4169 of 15006 Old 10-20-2008, 06:57 AM
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Have a play with drive mode and pure cinema, you've probably got it to the wrong one. For example in the UK drive mode 1 on freeview and pure cinema to smooth results in lots of stutter

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post #4170 of 15006 Old 10-20-2008, 07:27 AM
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Have a play with drive mode and pure cinema, you've probably got it to the wrong one. For example in the UK drive mode 1 on freeview and pure cinema to smooth results in lots of stutter

Drive mode?? Honestly, do not know what that is. Must be something different from UK sets to North American sets???
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