Originally Posted by video313
A question to 5020 owners.
My unit has zoom defect.
Please, check 1080p zoom on your 5020.
Do you have the same problem?
Left - 1080p 2.4:1 movie
Middle - Zoom as it should be
Right - Zoom on 5020 (distortion)
Heh. You're right, never really checked it but the zoom sucks.
Good thing it's a feature I'd never touch.
Originally Posted by smithdj86
Thanks for the good info.....I will be watching tv with the 6020 for the first time this weeked (just finished with the burn in...I am at about 110hrs is this sufficient?) I may opt to have a grayscale calibration as I do enjoy a "pop" maybe only because I have been watching a 42" samsung newer lcd that has corrupted my eye to true accuracy?. I have found with wine and music that the more you know about what your hearing and tasting, the more you understand it and enjoy it. I am a novice when it comes to plasmas, I am sure I will appreciate this tv and it will grow on me.
The adjustments on this set are fine for a lot of eyeball adjustments even without a full-scale calibration. You can bump up saturation easily with color and adjust for what might look like reddish or yellowish skins tones with a few clicks on tint etc.
If you're coming from an uncalibrated lcd you're probably used to brighter less accurate color. Enjoying more accurate settings really is an "acquired taste" and is particularly suited to watching movies. When you watch a movie in a theater do you see as much "pop" as a television show?
There is a reason manufacturers include higher temp A/V modes. The high level of enthusiasts and pros on this board tend to accept nothing less than strictly "accurate" reproduction however these other A/V modes are designed to offer some choices for different material and tastes.
If you watch the skin tones closely and look at the detail in dark areas of images though you'll generally see that movie is the most accurate mode by a pretty good margin. If you want brighter whites on some material
you can first go to "middle" temp Optimum or to Game mode which I've found also to be a safe bet when you find movie a little too flat for the material. Game seems to display dark detail a little better than Optimum and without edge enhancement. Check them both out for mid temp. Standard mode is also a choice here but it will also tend to add a little more artificial sharpness to the image than Game.
According to one pro reviewer
by simple eyeball comparison he found optimum mode color "very close" in his own head to head comparison with the picture of a calibrated 8th gen Elite model. This review was without any calibration of the Non-Elite.
Much to my chagrin as a card-carrying, “manual setup is best” videophile, Optimum mode produced an image that will please most users. In fact, the KURO PDP-6020FD’s subjective color in the Optimum mode came very close to the properly calibrated 60-inch Elite PRO-150FD (reviewed in HT’s May issue) which I parked beside it during my tests.
For an even brighter higher white
picture you can go to Sport, Performance or Dynamic
. The first 2 have the advantage of being easily adusted with picture controls while Dynamic is an auto, take it or leave it brightness mode.
One thing it seems most of these non movie-modes have in common is that they tend to use some degree of an s-shaped gamma curve to increase apparent contrast. This can give you pop and contrast effect esp. on brighter material but it sacrifices detail particularly in the dark areas
. Get a calibration disk or just pickup a few calibration pattern images and you can easily adjust some of that detail back in using a combination of the brightness and contrast controls.