The Official Pioneer 9G non-Elite KURO Owner's Discussion Thread - Page 208 - AVS Forum
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post #6211 of 15008 Old 01-06-2009, 12:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff_DML View Post

no, that is a way to verify that you are getting 24fps

changing it to pc input...will it still output to my avr threw hdmi? will that affect quality of pic or sound?
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post #6212 of 15008 Old 01-06-2009, 12:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dahlsim View Post

Touche'

Now if only football games were shot and produced to same precise standards and assumptions as movies are...

Well, in the short time I've had my 5020, I've really started to notice the varying camera quality during football games. Whatever is used for close player and crowd shots can look fantastic... post-game interviews, the detail in the jerseys and faces is unbelievable. Main action is pretty good, though I notice some noise around the yard lines from time to time. And worse of all is the "skycam" which barely looks better than SD.

I started watching everything in the movie mode, and much like with my SD Wega, at first switch you notice a yellow tinge, but often come to find it very natural. Though some television programming seems to add even more reds and yellows, such that movie is just too warm and unnatural. And with the Kuro, some football games never stopped looking a bit hazy. So I tried out some settings posted here for the Game mode, and I am loving sports, as well as many typical television programs. There is some "neon" effect here and there, but overall, a very agreeable picture, with some pop, but not unnatural.
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post #6213 of 15008 Old 01-06-2009, 01:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fiddlyd View Post

...will it still output to my avr through hdmi? will that affect quality of pic or sound?

You aren't 'outputting' from the TV, but from the player to the AVR. He's just telling you how the TV will inform you of the signal coming to it.
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post #6214 of 15008 Old 01-06-2009, 01:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Hef View Post

You aren't 'outputting' from the TV, but from the player to the AVR. He's just telling you how the TV will inform you of the signal coming to it.

ok im lost...im not at home now so im just assuming....under what section in the 5020's menu should i change hdmi to pc in??? i was assuming output but i guess im worng.
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post #6215 of 15008 Old 01-06-2009, 02:32 PM
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Im new here and apologize if I'm not posting in the right place. I just wanna know peoples opinion on the PQ difference between the pro 111 and the pro 101 signature series monitor? thx
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post #6216 of 15008 Old 01-06-2009, 02:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fiddlyd View Post

ok im lost...im not at home now so im just assuming....under what section in the 5020's menu should i change hdmi to pc in??? i was assuming output but i guess im worng.

PC mode is found:
Setup>Options>HDMI input>Signal type=Video/PC

While in PC mode: press Display
Your 5020 will report what signal it receives from a 1080p device - 24Hz or 60Hz

****************************************
There is a big difference between "24Hz" and "24p".
24Hz is a technical detail.
24p is a video mode that allows to get smoother motion, i.e. better video product. It incorporates different technical details. 24Hz is one of them.

In PC mode you have 24Hz incoming signal but you lose 24p. Colors do not match Video>Movie mode either.

Video mode allows to get 24p but not in all "sub"modes.
Game and Sport are not 24p.
Movie mode is OK.
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post #6217 of 15008 Old 01-06-2009, 03:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mholtz2j View Post

Well, I have used the thumb drive, but I see a huge difference in the colors when running the dvd compared to the thumb drive. The thumb drive has almost identical colors (greens look the same, etc.) but the DVD seems to have lighter shades, darker shades, etc.

Just not sure why it's differnt?

While running the break-in images using the recommended sports mode I also noticed the thumb drive has almost identical colors:
- greens look the same
- reds look the same
- blues look the same

When I view the images on my PC the greens, reds ... blues are different.

Has anyone else noticed this with the thumbdrive images?

Should I run the break-in images from the DVD?
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post #6218 of 15008 Old 01-06-2009, 03:10 PM
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are there any forum sponsors that sell the 6020 and or 151 that will ship to IA and that offer 12-24 mo interest free financing

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post #6219 of 15008 Old 01-06-2009, 03:25 PM
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Hi Everybody,

Just got a new 5020 set up and seem to be having a couple issues with it. Currently I have it set up using the following inputs
input 1 s-video,
input 2 -component and
input 4 hdmi.

I also have my analog cable signal plugged in as well.

1st problem is on on power up, I am unable to change inputs for almost a full minute. When I try, I get a "Starting up please wait". If it was left on an input with a good video signal, the picture is fine, I just can't change inputs.

2nd problem is that I cannot seem to access most of the home menu. Going to the home menu, the only valid option is Setup. Everything else is grayed out saying "Current status does not allow selection and adjustment". This is the same on all inputs. Even under setup, many sub menus are grayed out.

Also the Tools menu doesn't seem to be accessible. Nothing happens when I press the button the the remote.

The strange part is that this tv seems to be working fine otherwise. The picture in this set in phenomenal.

Has anybody seen anything like this? Please help! I'm either missing something really obvious here or I have a serious problem.

Thanks
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post #6220 of 15008 Old 01-06-2009, 03:42 PM
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Turn off hdmi control.
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post #6221 of 15008 Old 01-06-2009, 04:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by video313 View Post

Video mode allows to get 24p but not in all "sub"modes.
Game and Sport are not 24p.
Movie mode is OK.

I didn't realize that game mode did not support 24p... is this true?! I love the color on game mode too ugh. Is there anything that can be done about this?
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post #6222 of 15008 Old 01-06-2009, 04:48 PM
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I just helped a friend install a new 6020. He would like to use the speaker(s) provided with the 6020 for his center channel. His receiver only has one center channel output. How do you wire the L&R speaker terminals together to combine the two speakers into one. I know you are not supposed to wire two +/- leads from one terminal on the amplifier as it could damage the amplifier.

What is the proper way, if any, to do this?

Jack
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post #6223 of 15008 Old 01-06-2009, 05:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kanngca View Post

Turn off hdmi control.

I can't access HDMI control menu. It is grayed out.
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post #6224 of 15008 Old 01-06-2009, 05:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JackB View Post

I just helped a friend install a new 6020. He would like to use the speaker(s) provided with the 6020 for his center channel. His receiver only has one center channel output. How do you wire the L&R speaker terminals together to combine the two speakers into one. I know you are not supposed to wire two +/- leads from one terminal on the amplifier as it could damage the amplifier.

What is the proper way, if any, to do this?

Check the ohm rating on the receiver.

Just wire the the + terminals on the speaker together.
Then tie the - terminals on the speakers together.
Then wire the + from the receiver to the + of one speaker, the - from the receiver to the - of the speaker.

This puts the L+R speakers in parallel. I can't seem to find the ohmage of each speaker normally. I think it was 14 or 16. Your end result will be half that value.
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post #6225 of 15008 Old 01-06-2009, 05:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KNace View Post

I didn't realize that game mode did not support 24p... is this true?! I love the color on game mode too ugh. Is there anything that can be done about this?

He's lying. All modes support 24p playback.

What is dead can never die. Long live my 151!
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post #6226 of 15008 Old 01-06-2009, 06:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KNace View Post

I didn't realize that game mode did not support 24p... is this true?! I love the color on game mode too ugh. Is there anything that can be done about this?

I believe this TV is designed this way.
Theoretically it may be a BD device compatibility issue but very unlikely.
I will play with HDMI settings though.
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post #6227 of 15008 Old 01-06-2009, 06:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coltsfreak18 View Post

He's lying. All modes support 24p playback.

I was going to say... my eyes are pretty sensitive to the judder I thought I would have picked up on that.
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post #6228 of 15008 Old 01-06-2009, 07:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KNace View Post

I was going to say... my eyes are pretty sensitive to the judder I thought I would have picked up on that.

I've tried different HDMI settings - no change.
Still no 24p in Game and Sport modes.
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post #6229 of 15008 Old 01-06-2009, 07:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ddardani View Post

4436,

Congrats. My 6020 just arrived yesterday. You will not find anything in the manual about breaking in your plasma. It's mainly optional, and the people in this forum are more than willing to go the extra mile to maximize the PQ of their new purchases.

The break in itself is simply designed to work the plasma (gas) units slowly so that they ramp up to "reference" level properly and eventually fire evenly. Some folks do the same with a new car engine; some folks do the same when beginning a running regimen. The 150 hour period is the average time most forum users agree is about right (although some tout 170 hrs, or more). But again, it's optional. If you're not the type to care, or notice the subtle difference, then just enjoy your tv out of the box; tweak it and go.

The settings you mention are not laws that cannot be broken. The first batch, you can use either before, during, or after break in provided you are not using Evangelo's break in DVD/thumb slides. For that DVD/thumb slides, you crank up the settings to non watchable levels in order to maximize the DVD's primary color patterns. Thus, one should never watch regular content using the Evangelo's settings. But aside from that example, you are not forbidden from using other settings before, during, after your break in when breaking it in by normal viewing.

The second batch, as you read, is for when you have extra instruments (Control Cal) that help read your color setting outputs - RGB offsets. So, unless you are using those calibrating tools, skip it.

I, myself, plan on breaking in my 6020 by watching full screen content (HD HBO and HD Cinemax) using the first batch of settings (maybe turning down contrast and brightness a tad) for 150 hrs, and then readjusting the settings after 150 hrs by eye to my liking. I imagine they will be very close to the levels described in the first batch - with maybe very minor adjustments for my own tastes.

Good luck. If anyone has other insights, please feel free to share...

ddardani, congrats to you as well, and thanks for the reply/clarification. The process of wading through all this to sift out only information that might apply is painful, especially if you're a noob.

I initially configured the TV according to section 3.6.2 of the manual "Extending the Life of your Panel" (below), but have since selected Movie mode for the break-in period. While the colors are without a doubt more accurate in this mode, the quality is offset by the almost total lack of definition, making it difficult to watch. But for the purposes of breaking it in properly, that is what I will do. Needless to say, it won't remain this way for long. After the break-in period I'll try and attempt a happy medium between the two and see what happens.

Enjoy your 6020!

------------
This function provides short-cuts to your panel’s longer service life. Your flat panel TV includes the Screen
Protection option. Activating this option causes the panel to automatically select the several different features
that can prolong the life of your panel and help alleviate after-image ghosts or burn-in. To set this option, follow
the steps below.
1 ) Access the Option through the Setup.
2 ) Select Screen Protection from the Option menu.
A confirmation screen appears.
3 ) Select Yes from the submenu.
The following settings are automatically entered:
•Auto Size: Wide-Zoom
•Side Mask - Detection: Mode 1
•Orbiter (AV source): Mode 1
•Orbiter (PC source): Mode 1
•Energy Save: Mode 1
•AV Selection: OPTIMUM (when DYNAMIC is selected for AV Selection)
------------
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post #6230 of 15008 Old 01-06-2009, 07:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by video313 View Post

PC mode is found:
Setup>Options>HDMI input>Signal type=Video/PC

While in PC mode: press Display
Your 5020 will report what signal it receives from a 1080p device - 24Hz or 60Hz

****************************************
There is a big difference between "24Hz" and "24p".
24Hz is a technical detail.
24p is a video mode that allows to get smoother motion, i.e. better video product. It incorporates different technical details. 24Hz is one of them.

In PC mode you have 24Hz incoming signal but you lose 24p. Colors do not match Video>Movie mode either.

Video mode allows to get 24p but not in all "sub"modes.
Game and Sport are not 24p.
Movie mode is OK.


ok i see now...i put it on pc and i see now if its 60 or 24...but i see now that i lost my picture controls...i had it on movie mode with my settings but now it goes to standard or user controls...what should i use?? should i always leave it on pc input and enter my own user settings or whenever i want to see at what freq im at i have togo through the whole pc input setup again??


fidddly
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post #6231 of 15008 Old 01-06-2009, 08:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dahlsim View Post

I'm going to disagree at least partly with you there. For a number of reasons I'd never be able to substitute for PS3/360 with a PC.

To stay somewhat OT though graphically with a great display like this Kuro current gen Consoles on the best games generate beautiful graphics. There is no way display something like Gears of War, Ninja Gaiden, Little Big Planet, MotorStorm, various Sports Games, Dead Space, Bio Shock, Prince of Persia etc. etc. and reasonably not see beautiful graphics.

Of course a high-end/expensive out PC/graphic card will always produce the best state of the art graphics but I'd also argue that consoles represent a wider range of to notch game types while PC began to increasingly become FPS machines.

Still it's been since looking very closely at PC gaming for me (or at least at home). I'd like to see what the best of current PC graphics can do by comparison on my 6020. I have a solid HTPC but not specifically geared toward gaming. What level of PC + graphics card is required to run games at the "PS3 eat your heart out" level you indicate? What game(s) do you think represent state of the art PC graphics best? (no time consuming RPG please)

Well most console games are on PC with the option for you to use any resolution you please with any controller you want with any effects (anti aliasing, anisotropic filtering). If you want one good example of a PC game that puts any console game to shame that isn't available on that side check out Crysis

Even older games like Half Life 2 cranked will make PS3/360 games look a bit crude. Far Cry 1/2 are also stunners. Then you've got games like Starcraft 2 and Diablo 3 which may fit your description of time consuming but I can't think of any other better way to spend my time

Almost *any* AAA console game is on PC and it looks better. You aren't limited to 720p either. Bioshock, Dead Space, GTA 1-4, all of the Need for Speed series, Halo and the list goes on.

If you want a good system to run games you can slap one together for under $700 easily, not a $399 console but you can do much more with a PC. Anyone using an 8800GT or greater ($150 cards) can enjoy PC games to it's fullest at higher settings than consoles.

Be a fan of displays, not companies or technologies!
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post #6232 of 15008 Old 01-06-2009, 08:55 PM
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Have to agree with Patrick here. PC > My PS3 if the game is available on both, least for me because mouse > controllers when playing FPS. Freakin hard to aim with the controller!
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post #6233 of 15008 Old 01-06-2009, 08:58 PM
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My PDP-5020FD showed up today. Waiting for it to warm up after it was delivered was killing me. Also the hidden power switch in the back scared me when the unit would not turn on at first.

So far I'm very happy.
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post #6234 of 15008 Old 01-06-2009, 10:17 PM
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anyone wonder why they put only 1 component but 3 composites on such a TV.

my 6020FD is coming on Thursday unless this storm messes up delivery
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post #6235 of 15008 Old 01-07-2009, 12:17 AM
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good question....maybe to keep production cost low? After all, they did price the 9Gs lower than the 8Gs. But I really wish they had atleast 2 component inputs. One is already being use by the wii, and I could've used another for my dvd recorder.
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post #6236 of 15008 Old 01-07-2009, 01:16 AM
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Quote:


check out Crysis

Ah, yes. That was said to be the Killer App for PC some time ago. Given the PC spec you state is already met by my HTPC I'll check it out and run to the 6020. Given that today's consoles are already running 2-3 years old even a medium modern PC today should have an edge...

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post #6237 of 15008 Old 01-07-2009, 04:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Dahlsim View Post

Ah, yes. That was said to be the Killer App for PC some time ago. Given the PC spec you state is already met by my HTPC I'll check it out and run to the 6020. Given that today's consoles are already running 2-3 years old even a medium modern PC today should have an edge...

One thing's for sure when the PS3 came out nothing could match it. PCs are always moving and changing meaning you can go back to old games and make them even look better. Since Sony lost so much money making the PS3 I don't think they are going to go in the same direction next time. Something tells me they'll "pull a Wii" and innovate instead.

Be a fan of displays, not companies or technologies!
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post #6238 of 15008 Old 01-07-2009, 05:09 AM
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Is there any special setting i should have my scientific atlantic 8300hd box set on to watch tv on my 5020?

Also regarding the poster who questioned images on the thumbdrive....i see the same thing. all the greens, reds and blues look the same on each slide??
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post #6239 of 15008 Old 01-07-2009, 05:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Duds72 View Post

Is there any special setting i should have my scientific atlantic 8300hd box set on to watch tv on my 5020?....

I believe that box allows "pass through" of the native signal resolution. The standard answer is to try the various settings and see which you feel is the best to the panel...pass through or setting it to 1080i.
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post #6240 of 15008 Old 01-07-2009, 05:50 AM
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will do, thanks!

the reason i ask is last night i saw some weird things during a hockey game and also on a fast pan on the science hd channel. i know hi def signals are compressed, so i was wondering if there was a way to send the singal to the tv differently so i wouldnt see that effects i saw last night.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Hef View Post

I believe that box allows "pass through" of the native signal resolution. The standard answer is to try the various settings and see which you feel is the best to the panel...pass through or setting it to 1080i.

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