The Official Pioneer 9G non-Elite KURO Owner's Discussion Thread - Page 436 - AVS Forum
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post #13051 of 15006 Old 02-21-2010, 10:26 PM
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I'm trying do perform the 72hz calibration described on hippotechsolutions and the changes I make only affect the PC off.

At this point I have a white screen which the guide says I should. It isn't specific on what to do next, just enter same RGB values from PC off. I assume I am supposed to go into the SM just like I did when I made changes for PC off(Ex: press mute-->panel factory-->Panel -2 adj) Any adjustment I make has no affect on Movie mode PC:advance. It is changing movie PC off. Am I missing a step somewhere?
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post #13052 of 15006 Old 02-21-2010, 10:36 PM
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Hi,

First, to verify: while using v0.08 and pressing Save, after you turned the Display off and back on with the Master Power Switch on the back right bottom, did you get the Home / Store Menu?

If not, you need to use v0.08 and repeat those instructions.

With v0.10, you don't use the Owner's remote, you simply set the RGB High / Low sliders (press the small SEND button next to each) to the same values you used with v0.08... then use SAVE

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post #13053 of 15006 Old 02-21-2010, 10:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbe View Post

Hi,

First, to verify: while using v0.08 and pressing Save, after you turned the Display off and back on with the Master Power Switch on the back right bottom, did you get the Home / Store Menu?

If not, you need to use v0.08 and repeat those instructions.

With v0.10, you don't use the Owner's remote, you simply set the RGB High / Low sliders (press the small SEND button next to each) to the same values you used with v0.08... then use SAVE

oh, that makes sense. I am using v0.10, I will give it a try. Thank you.
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post #13054 of 15006 Old 02-22-2010, 08:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Hef View Post

With that brightness of Movie mode, do you watch in a darkened room?

I definitely prefer movie mode on my 5020 at night when watching movies. All the talk that movie mode being dull really isn't true. I went to watch a movie (Edge of Darkness) today at a theater for the first time since I got my 5020 last August. I paid close attention to the color, contrast, etc. Low and behold, it was the same "dull" color as movie mode. Sky was not bright blue, grass was not vivid green, and flesh tones so called "washed out" just like they are suppose to be. Now I know my tv was properly calibrated in movie mode and all other modes are just cartoonish. Kind of refreshing to know what I'm seeing on my Pioneer is exactly as the director intended and not what I want it to look like. Big difference.

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post #13055 of 15006 Old 02-22-2010, 08:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wxman View Post

I definitely prefer movie mode on my 5020 at night when watching movies. All the talk that movie mode being dull really isn't true. I went to watch a movie (Edge of Darkness) today at a theater for the first time since I got my 5020 last August. I paid close attention to the color, contrast, etc. Low and behold, it was the same "dull" color as movie mode. Sky was not bright blue, grass was not vivid green, and flesh tones so called "washed out" just like they are suppose to be. Now I know my tv was properly calibrated in movie mode and all other modes are just cartoonish. Kind of refreshing to know what I'm seeing on my Pioneer is exactly as the director intended and not what I want it to look like. Big difference.

Great post!


bob
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post #13056 of 15006 Old 02-23-2010, 09:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wxman View Post

I definitely prefer movie mode on my 5020 at night when watching movies. All the talk that movie mode being dull really isn't true. I went to watch a movie (Edge of Darkness) today at a theater for the first time since I got my 5020 last August. I paid close attention to the color, contrast, etc. Low and behold, it was the same "dull" color as movie mode.

Sky was not bright blue, grass was not vivid green, and flesh tones so called "washed out" just like they are suppose to be. Now I know my tv was properly calibrated in movie mode and all other modes are just cartoonish. Kind of refreshing to know what I'm seeing on my Pioneer is exactly as the director intended and not what I want it to look like. Big difference.

So true. Movie mode is da bomb for accuracy, esp. when calibrated.

As I posted, using the non-elite Kuro calibration guide by wrinklefree I went with OSM style calibration of over the SIF style.

I love the flexibility of the OSM style (occasional standard mode) which gives you several 'usable' picture settings to choose from. The downside though is that with that mode you can't effectively use Movie Mode for all material since it won't be calibrated for 60Hz material. The exception would be TV movies where movie mode with PC:Advanced can detect the 24hz original signal and still kick in at 72hz.

Using the SIF style (set and forget it) calibration you don't have think about whether you're using getting a 30/60hz signal or a 24/72hz signal and you can be sure you're on the most accurate setting for everything.

With OSM, you really use movie mode for just movie material. Although you could still use movie mode, it's temp will be low on 60hz material so you need to use your calibrated standard mode, or other a/v mode in most cases for TV and Games. Fortunately I've found that in addition to Standard and Performance, Game mode and even Optimum work well on TV shows once standard mode has brought the 60hz color temp way down and flattened out the grayscale.

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post #13057 of 15006 Old 02-23-2010, 10:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dahlsim View Post

So true. Movie mode is da bomb for accuracy, esp. when calibrated.

As I posted, using the non-elite Kuro calibration guide by wrinklefree I went with OSM style calibration of over the SIF style.

I love the flexibility of the OSM style (occasional standard mode) which gives you several 'usable' picture settings to choose from. The downside though is that with that mode you can't effectively use Movie Mode for all material since it won't be calibrated for 60Hz material. The exception would be TV movies where movie mode with PC:Advanced can detect the 24hz original signal and still kick in at 72hz.

Using the SIF style (set and forget it) calibration you don't have think about whether you're using getting a 30/60hz signal or a 24/72hz signal and you can be sure you're on the most accurate setting for everything.

With OSM, you really use movie mode for just movie material. Although you could still use movie mode, it's temp will be low on 60hz material so you need to use your calibrated standard mode, or other a/v mode in most cases for TV and Games. Fortunately I've found that in addition to Standard and Performance, Game mode and even Optimum work well on TV shows once standard mode has brought the 60hz color temp way down and flattened out the grayscale.

Dahlsim your comments yesterday about Game mode being a poor mans "Pure" got me thinking.

So I stayed up last night doing a fresh calibration in GAME (using the Video EQ). I flattened the gamma (2.25) and fixed all primary and secondary colors and what I ended up with is a quasi movie mode minus any additional processing (in theory). I did some A/B testing with real world content, and the calibrated Game mode looks amazing, as if a filter had been lifted. Blu-ray images are crisper with more detail. I'm not 100% sure if the additional detail from GAME is a result of edge enhancement ( sharpness at 0) or lack of NR as the manual is pretty unclear about what exactly is going on. Does anyone have any inside knowledge?

I used a few sharpness patterns and didn't see signs of ringing or artifacts. Need to do some more testing to find out for sure. I'll see about snapping a few closeup shots and posting them here.
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post #13058 of 15006 Old 02-23-2010, 10:43 AM
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What was your peak light output in the calibrated Game mode? Any chance you can post the charts?
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post #13059 of 15006 Old 02-23-2010, 11:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lunaticpuma View Post

What was your peak light output in the calibrated Game mode? Any chance you can post the charts?

I would but it looks exactly like the movie mode charts

The peak light output is at 32ftL with a contrast setting of 36. As a side note, I have since changed my tune when it comes to watching films. In the past I used 37ftL for both my day and night setting but after trying a much lower output of around 27ftL I'm sold. I find movies (in complete darkness) appear more film-like and less like punchy video. This is purely subjective of course, but try it as an experiment for an entire movie, as it takes a while for your eyes to adjust.

Remember you're lucky to get 20ftL at your local movie theater, so technically turning your contrast down is closer to what the director and cinematographer intended.
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post #13060 of 15006 Old 02-23-2010, 11:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wrinklefree View Post

I would but it looks exactly like the movie mode charts

The peak light output is at 32ftL with a contrast setting of 36. As a side note, I have since changed my tune when it comes to watching films. In the past I used 37ftL for both my day and night setting but after trying a much lower output of around 27ftL I'm sold. I find movies (in complete darkness) appear more film-like and less like punchy video. This is purely subjective of course, but try it as an experiment for an entire movie as it takes a while for your eyes to adjust.

Remember you're lucky to get 20ftL at your local movie theater, so technically bumping your contrast down is closer to what the director and cinematographer intended.

Thanks for the info.

I was asking mostly because I'm considering picking up a 5020 off of a local Craig's List ad. I know from D-Nice's early review that the color temp was high for Game mode, but I think that was before the ControlCal patch. I was just thinking that a calibrated Game mode, could be a nice set and forget mode if the light output was enough for daytime viewing too.
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post #13061 of 15006 Old 02-23-2010, 11:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lunaticpuma View Post

I was just thinking that a calibrated Game mode, could be a nice set and forget mode if the light output was enough for daytime viewing too.

It may or may not matter to you but wrinklefree is using a high perfomance external color (and gamma) managment box ($1,200) to get that sterling image. I did something similar using Standard mode on my monitor.
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post #13062 of 15006 Old 02-23-2010, 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by bodosom View Post

It may or may not matter to you but wrinklefree is using a high perfomance external color (and gamma) managment box ($1,200) to get that sterling image. I did something similar using Standard mode on my monitor.

Forgot about that (though I did see his posts a few pages back a while ago). That explains things.
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post #13063 of 15006 Old 02-23-2010, 12:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wrinklefree View Post

Dahlsim your comments yesterday about Game mode being a poor mans "Pure" got me thinking.

So I stayed up last night doing a fresh calibration in GAME (using the Video EQ). I flattened the gamma (2.25) and fixed all primary and secondary colors and what I ended up with is a quasi movie mode minus any additional processing (in theory). I did some A/B testing with real world content, and the calibrated Game mode looks amazing, as if a filter had been lifted. Blu-ray images are crisper with more detail. I'm not 100% sure if the additional detail from GAME is a result of edge enhancement ( sharpness at 0) or lack of NR as the manual is pretty unclear about what exactly is going on. Does anyone have any inside knowledge?

I used a few sharpness patterns and didn't see signs of ringing or artifacts. Need to do some more testing to find out for sure. I'll see about snapping a few closeup shots and posting them here.

Sounds great man. I wish I could get my hands on one of those boxes.

BTW, when is the 12-Gen Panasonic calibration guide coming? I've been waiting on that so my friends and I can rent one of your analyzer tools sometime.

Thanks,
Tim
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post #13064 of 15006 Old 02-23-2010, 01:06 PM
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Originally Posted by timothydog76 View Post

I wish I could get my hands on one of those boxes.

Assuming you mean a VideoEq you can certainly order one. AVS has them on sale until the end of the month.
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post #13065 of 15006 Old 02-23-2010, 01:33 PM
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Assuming you mean a VideoEq you can certainly order one. AVS has them on sale until the end of the month.

Let me clarify. I wish I could spend the money on one. But I can't.
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post #13066 of 15006 Old 02-23-2010, 02:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wrinklefree View Post

Dahlsim your comments yesterday about Game mode being a poor mans "Pure" got me thinking.

So I stayed up last night doing a fresh calibration in GAME (using the Video EQ). I flattened the gamma (2.25) and fixed all primary and secondary colors and what I ended up with is a quasi movie mode minus any additional processing (in theory). I did some A/B testing with real world content, and the calibrated Game mode looks amazing, as if a filter had been lifted. Blu-ray images are crisper with more detail.

Nice job.

Other's have noted in the past that Game Mode looks really good other than it's high temp. Some preferred it even over movie mode if not for the color temp. Now that we can fix the color temp I find that game mode comes to life as a fully usable A/V mode.

Quote:


I'm not 100% sure if the additional detail from GAME is a result of edge enhancement ( sharpness at 0) or lack of NR as the manual is pretty unclear about what exactly is going on. Does anyone have any inside knowledge?

I used a few sharpness patterns and didn't see signs of ringing or artifacts. Need to do some more testing to find out for sure. I'll see about snapping a few closeup shots and posting them here.

Those snapshots would be cool. As for the reason for the difference in detail I think a look at the built in settings chart is helpful:

built-in settings.

A/V Mode ---- DRE --- Black Level --- ACL --- Enhancer --- Gamma --- CTI
Dynamic------ High ------- On ------- On ------- 2 ---------- 2 ------ On
Performance-- Mid -------- On ------- On ------- 2 ---------- 2 ------ On
Movie-------- Off -------- On ------- Off ------- 2 ---------- 1 ------ On
Sports------- Mid -------- On ------- On ------- 2 ---------- 2 ------ On
Game-------- Off -------- Off ------- Off ------- 2 ---------- 2 ------ On
Standard----- Mid ------- On ------- On ------- 2 ---------- 2 ------ On

As you can see Game Mode is closer to "Pure" than Movie Mode as far as turning off built-in image enhancing settings.

Game Mode also has a different Gamma which I always suspected was behind it's better shadow detail however since you've also adjusted the Gamma further I can only imagine what you might be seeing in it.

Have you tried using the VideoEQ with the HDMI-PC modes? I believe those modes are completely clean while also being equivalent to Enhancer = 1 for perfect pixel sharpness.

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post #13067 of 15006 Old 02-23-2010, 03:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lunaticpuma View Post

Forgot about that (though I did see his posts a few pages back a while ago). That explains things.

You can still calibrate both Movie Mode and Game Mode to similarly good results.

Again looking at this reference post:

Optimum 7500K but automatically changes
Dynamic 10000K
Performance 8600K with S-shaped gamma
Movie 6350K with a 2.3 gamma
Sports 10000K with S-shaped gamma
Game 8000K with a 2.2 gamma
Standard 8000K with S-shaped gamma

You can see how calibrating the grayscale for Standard Mode would produce a good color temp for Game Mode as well as performance mode. You can also see why even Optimum mode benefits.

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post #13068 of 15006 Old 02-23-2010, 03:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dahlsim View Post

Nice job.

Other's have noted in the past that Game Mode looks really good other than it's high temp. Some preferred it even over movie mode if not for the color temp. Now that we can fix the color temp I find that game mode comes to life as a fully usable A/V mode.



Those snapshots would be cool. As for the reason for the difference in detail I think a look at the built in settings chart is helpful:

built-in settings.

A/V Mode ---- DRE --- Black Level --- ACL --- Enhancer --- Gamma --- CTI
Dynamic------ High ------- On ------- On ------- 2 ---------- 2 ------ On
Performance-- Mid -------- On ------- On ------- 2 ---------- 2 ------ On
Movie-------- Off -------- On ------- Off ------- 2 ---------- 1 ------ On
Sports------- Mid -------- On ------- On ------- 2 ---------- 2 ------ On
Game-------- Off -------- Off ------- Off ------- 2 ---------- 2 ------ On
Standard----- Mid ------- On ------- On ------- 2 ---------- 2 ------ On

As you can see Game Mode is closer to "Pure" than Movie Mode as far as turning off built-in image enhancing settings.

Game Mode also has a different Gamma which I always suspected was behind it's better shadow detail however since you've also adjusted the Gamma further I can only imagine what you might be seeing in it.

Have you tried using the VideoEQ with the HDMI-PC modes? I believe those modes are completely clean while also being equivalent to Enhancer = 1 for perfect pixel sharpness.

Dahlsim,

Thats exactly the chart I was looking. Thanks a bunch!

I haven't tried the PC mode yet, but I plan to eventually. Hopefully I can get some pics tonight.
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post #13069 of 15006 Old 02-23-2010, 06:39 PM
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Newbie here. For same price, which would you choose? Pioneer Kuro 6020 or Panny V10 65?
Thanks
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post #13070 of 15006 Old 02-24-2010, 05:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Activefun View Post

Newbie here. For same price, which would you choose? Pioneer Kuro 6020 or Panny V10 65?
Thanks

6020 hands down.
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post #13071 of 15006 Old 02-24-2010, 11:26 AM
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I had my 5020 calibrated back in December and we used the Occasional Standard Mode method. He used the same hardware as wrinklefrees guide, but with CalMan software. But I am having some issues.

First of all, Movie Mode (72) looks pretty darn good, but at times still too soft, especially for HD cable off my Tivo Series 3. Some Blu-Rays pop more than others. Some however, look really dull and soft in Movie Mode. I have the Pio 5ifd and have bumped up the Gamma one notch per wrinklefrees suggestion. This did help a lot in terms of sharpness/clarity/light. Certainly a liveable set-it and forget-it mode. I am using Advance PC mode when watching the Tivo to achieve the calibrated 72Hz mode.

Also, to my eye, Standard AV mode is almost unwatchable in a light (day) or dark (night) room. Too much flicker and some very strange shadow detail that almost seems to over-pronounce the shadows. The settings that my calibrator came up with for this mode are 39, +2, +13, 0 and -15. That all seems about right except for the +13 Color. Does this seem out of whack to anybody else? I ran the DVE disc through this mode and ended up with similar settings.

So, then I started reading what you guys were saying about Game mode and gave it a shot and liked it a lot. It seems to have just the right amount of pop without being over the top. I am assuming this is from an elevated Gamma? However, it seems to suffer a little more from red push and seems to put out a little less light than even the calibrated Movie Mode. Just to clarify, what you gentlemen are suggesting is that both Standard and Game mode have the same factory grayscale (8000) Therefore, having Standard AV mode calibrated to accurate grayscale (6500), Game mode should have also inherited the accurate (6500) grayscale, correct? I ran the DVE disc through this mode and ended up with settings of 39, 0, 0, R1, and -15. Does this jive with your settings for Game mode?

So my main question is, does it seem that my calibration and settings from my calibrator are correct for both modes (see attached calibration report)? If so, any suggestions on how to improve the PQ of the Standard and Game modes?

 

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post #13072 of 15006 Old 02-24-2010, 07:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpalcott View Post

I had my 5020 calibrated back in December and we used the “Occasional Standard Mode” method. He used the same hardware as wrinklefree’s guide, but with CalMan software. But I am having some issues.

First of all, Movie Mode (72) looks pretty darn good, but at times still too soft, especially for HD cable off my Tivo Series 3. Some Blu-Rays “pop” more than others. Some however, look really dull and soft in Movie Mode. I have the Pio 5ifd and have bumped up the Gamma one notch per wrinklefree’s suggestion. This did help a lot in terms of sharpness/clarity/light. Certainly a liveable set-it and forget-it mode. I am using Advance PC mode when watching the Tivo to achieve the calibrated 72Hz mode.

Also, to my eye, Standard AV mode is almost unwatchable in a light (day) or dark (night) room. Too much flicker and some very strange shadow detail that almost seems to over-pronounce the shadows. The settings that my calibrator came up with for this mode are 39, +2, +13, 0 and -15. That all seems about right except for the +13 Color. Does this seem out of whack to anybody else? I ran the DVE disc through this mode and ended up with similar settings.

So, then I started reading what you guys were saying about Game mode and gave it a shot and liked it a lot. It seems to have just the right amount of “pop” without being over the top. I am assuming this is from an elevated Gamma? However, it seems to suffer a little more from red push and seems to put out a little less light than even the calibrated Movie Mode. Just to clarify, what you gentlemen are suggesting is that both Standard and Game mode have the same factory grayscale (8000) Therefore, having Standard AV mode calibrated to accurate grayscale (6500), Game mode should have also inherited the accurate (6500) grayscale, correct? I ran the DVE disc through this mode and ended up with settings of 39, 0, 0, R1, and -15. Does this jive with your settings for Game mode?

So my main question is, does it seem that my calibration and settings from my calibrator are correct for both modes (see attached calibration report)? If so, any suggestions on how to improve the PQ of the Standard and Game modes?

I had my 5020 calibrated professionally for movie mode, while BB did the free cal for standard mode. Your color seems way off in Standard mode. BB set the color for standard at +8 which was way too red. The guy I paid to calibrate looked at standard mode and lowered it by eye to zero after he calibrated movie mode. The color temp was 6500 in standard from the BB cal. Still looks too red for me to use. Lowering anymore washes out other colors. Game mode looks much better. I calibrated using S&M and initially came up with a color of +3 which was still a bit red. Lowered that to zero, and for tint set at G3. When using DVE or S&M for color and tint on a Pioneer, you will need to adjust color down a bit from where it says. Tint is a matter of choice, but for me a little push in the green helps make skin tone look more natural in game mode. Game mode for me looks brighter than movie mode. I have contrast at 39, brightness at 1, color 0, tint G3 and sharpness at -10.

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post #13073 of 15006 Old 02-24-2010, 09:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpalcott View Post

Also, to my eye, Standard AV mode is almost unwatchable in a light (day) or dark (night) room. Too much flicker and some very strange shadow detail that almost seems to over-pronounce the shadows. The settings that my calibrator came up with for this mode are 39, +2, +13, 0 and -15. That all seems about right except for the +13 Color. Does this seem out of whack to anybody else? I ran the DVE disc through this mode and ended up with similar settings.

I would agree that it seems like your color would be quite oversaturated. 37,3,0,0,-15 after my calibration. Of course every unit can be a little different but it's hard to see that you would need color saturation like that after a proper grayscale adjustment.

Edit: Looking at your charts I do see that the +13 color adjustment is specifically on your cable. Did the calibrator found a color issue coming out of your cable box?

Once nice thing I like about a pro calibration "by the numbers" is that you should have a reference point as what is accurate color. You should be able to use a pro calibrated mode on the same material to help you A/B adjust other modes, esp. for color adjustments.


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So, then I started reading what you guys were saying about Game mode and gave it a shot and liked it a lot. It seems to have just the right amount of “pop” without being over the top. I am assuming this is from an elevated Gamma? However, it seems to suffer a little more from red push and seems to put out a little less light than even the calibrated Movie Mode.

The Kuro doesn't really have an issue with 'red push' persay, which is a color decoding error. What you would generally have is an overstaturation in red. That you can adjust fairly well with basic picture controls bringing color down and perhaps a slight tint adjustment +G for red.

With the flat grayscale for standard mode I'm finding Standard, Game, Performance all adjust out pretty well on contrast, color and shadow detail with basic picture adjustments.

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Just to clarify, what you gentlemen are suggesting is that both Standard and Game mode have the same factory grayscale (8000) Therefore, having Standard AV mode calibrated to accurate grayscale (6500), Game mode should have also inherited the accurate (6500) grayscale, correct?

If you calibrated for standard mode the grayscale will be close for Game Mode, and Performance Mode too for that matter. This is because they share the same grayscale and happen to have their color temperatures preset in the same general range. The calibration however will be not be dead on for Game Mode however because the calibration was done using the built-in settings of Standard Mode.

If you want the calibration dead on for Game Mode then you could base your 60hz grayscale on Game Mode . Standard would still be solid but the grayscale would be best on Game Mode.

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I ran the DVE disc through this mode and ended up with settings of 39, 0, 0, R1, and -15. Does this jive with your settings for Game mode?

Looks fine. I find a little room for preference on sharpness. I have sharpness at -9 on Game but that's without pulling my DVE disk.

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If so, any suggestions on how to improve the PQ of the Standard and Game modes?

With OSM mode don't expect to get the all the A/V modes looking the same. They can't due to the variation in built-in settings. The fun is that you can be closer to accurate on several modes and still have some flexibility in looks for different content and lighting.

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post #13074 of 15006 Old 02-25-2010, 11:56 PM
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So wrinklefree calibrated my set a few weeks ago and it has been splendid for the most part(thanks again). I would however love to calibrate it to an ideal 2.2 gamma and I found powerstrip works to do this since i play video off my PC. Just so I'm sure I'm doing it right, i want to make a very SLIGHT adjustment towards a darker looking image right(which in powerstrip is taking the gamma from 1.00 to 0.96)? Anybody else using powerstrip for this? I can also do it in my player with ffdshow but using powerstrip applies it to the entire image. Are there any good test patterns or something i can do this with the naked eye?

Edit: I just tried a bunch of tests and was quite surprised to find they all seemed to agree my gamma was around 1.7 which was quite odd to me since I remember Wrinklefree measuring it at 2.1. I'm finding myself sliding the gamma slider all the way to .75 to get it to 2.2. Am I missing something entirely when it comes to this? I will admit the image does seem to have much better impact this way but it's also considerably darker which makes me wonder if all is alright with my setup.
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post #13075 of 15006 Old 02-26-2010, 07:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xaque View Post

So wrinklefree calibrated my set a few weeks ago and it has been splendid for the most part(thanks again). I would however love to calibrate it to an ideal 2.2 gamma and I found powerstrip works to do this since i play video off my PC. Just so I'm sure I'm doing it right, i want to make a very SLIGHT adjustment towards a darker looking image right(which in powerstrip is taking the gamma from 1.00 to 0.96)? Anybody else using powerstrip for this? I can also do it in my player with ffdshow but using powerstrip applies it to the entire image. Are there any good test patterns or something i can do this with the naked eye?

Edit: I just tried a bunch of tests and was quite surprised to find they all seemed to agree my gamma was around 1.7 which was quite odd to me since I remember Wrinklefree measuring it at 2.1. I'm finding myself sliding the gamma slider all the way to .75 to get it to 2.2. Am I missing something entirely when it comes to this? I will admit the image does seem to have much better impact this way but it's also considerably darker which makes me wonder if all is alright with my setup.

PM sent.

A properly calibrated NE should measure a flat 2.1 gamma which yours did using the Oppo blu-ray player. I'ts possible your computer is sending the wrong RGB range which can cause a shift in overall brightness altering the gamma.

I'm curious to find out what kind of tests you were running.
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post #13076 of 15006 Old 02-26-2010, 01:10 PM
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Originally Posted by wrinklefree View Post

PM sent.

A properly calibrated NE should measure a flat 2.1 gamma which yours did using the Oppo blu-ray player. I'ts possible your computer is sending the wrong RGB range which can cause a shift in overall brightness altering the gamma.

I'm curious to find out what kind of tests you were running.

Got the PM and replied thanks so much. I was trying to say that I'm probably doing these eye tests wrong as I remember that it measured 2.1 gamma. Just to be super ultra clear to everybody here, do not hesitate for even a moment to get a calibration done by Wrinklefree if you're in the bay area. Great service and price. In the PM he just sent me he just offered to come over and play with tweaking my gamma setting on my PC free of charge with his light meter which is well above and beyond the call of duty if you ask me.
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post #13077 of 15006 Old 02-28-2010, 01:25 PM
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It's been awhile since I posted here but need to know some things concerning my 5020fd...

I'm about to build a new gaming PC and am torn on whether to use one of the new 120hz lcd monitors such as the Samsung 2233RZ (this is true 120hz) or my 5020fd? I want the absolute best picture quality I can get, and would assume the 5020 would run circles around any consumer lcd monitor you can buy today.

With that being said, if I do elect to go with my 5020fd for all my gaming and movie needs via PC.. does someone have some recommended settings to use with pc mode? I am currently using D-Nice's offsets via control cal in movie mode and pure cinema standard. I guess I'll be using the PC mode now, which I hear gives a cleaner picture. This is great because I find lcds tend to give a cleaner, sharper image so that's fine. But how about lag and response time for gaming? Is it truely going to be worse than one of the newer 120hz monitors or not? Does PC mode run at 60hz or 72hz?

Before I pull my hair out maybe someone can chime in that uses their kuro for a pc monitor. Yes, I'll be using this daily for everything on PC. It would be ideal to get a 30" monitor but I don't want to spend any more money than I have to and I figure if the Kuro can work nicely well it's one less thing I have to worry about.
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post #13078 of 15006 Old 02-28-2010, 05:42 PM
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I have an odd problem with my 5020. The problem is the clock in the tv tuner. It consistently is running fast by 8 minutes. The only way I can get it to reset to the proper time is to go into system setup and switch to a different time zone, and then switch it back to correct time zone. The time resets and must sync with the time of the OTA channel I am watching. It will work for awhile and then I discover it's 8 minutes off again, thus the name of the show in the display will change 8 minutes prior to actual start time. It never is off by more than 8 minutes or less than 8 minutes. I'm not sure if it is one of the local stations broadcasting a code with an improper time or not. What I do know is something is triggering it to be 8 minutes too fast and the only way to "fix" it temporarily is to change time zones. I installed the firmware change last September. Honestly I don't know exactly how long this has been happening, but I know at least for the last few months, but once the clock becomes off by 8 minutes it never self corrects itself when going to a different station, and so all the stations will display the wrong show name 8 minutes too soon.

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post #13079 of 15006 Old 03-02-2010, 11:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PathofNeo View Post

It's been awhile since I posted here but need to know some things concerning my 5020fd...

I'm about to build a new gaming PC and am torn on whether to use one of the new 120hz lcd monitors such as the Samsung 2233RZ (this is true 120hz) or my 5020fd? I want the absolute best picture quality I can get, and would assume the 5020 would run circles around any consumer lcd monitor you can buy today.

With that being said, if I do elect to go with my 5020fd for all my gaming and movie needs via PC.. does someone have some recommended settings to use with pc mode? I am currently using D-Nice's offsets via control cal in movie mode and pure cinema standard. I guess I'll be using the PC mode now, which I hear gives a cleaner picture. This is great because I find lcds tend to give a cleaner, sharper image so that's fine. But how about lag and response time for gaming? Is it truely going to be worse than one of the newer 120hz monitors or not? Does PC mode run at 60hz or 72hz?

Before I pull my hair out maybe someone can chime in that uses their kuro for a pc monitor. Yes, I'll be using this daily for everything on PC. It would be ideal to get a 30" monitor but I don't want to spend any more money than I have to and I figure if the Kuro can work nicely well it's one less thing I have to worry about.

PC mode will run everything at 60hz. Check out this reference post.

This mode is a little sharper for fine level detail since the video modes on this display use the 'natural' enhancer mode of 2 which works great for video material but not quite as sharp for fine text.

As long as you set your source to output 1080p to avoid scaling and deinterlacing, you should get great response times for input lag since this mode doesn't do any of the video mode's signal processing 'enhancements'.

Very much like a 'dumb' CRT monitor which were best for gaming.

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post #13080 of 15006 Old 03-02-2010, 03:23 PM
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Wow, I love my 5020! Just celebrated our 1st Anniversary together!
Finally bought a new receiver (Pioneer Elite vsx-23txh) can't wait to get it hooked up!
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