The Official Pioneer 9G non-Elite KURO Owner's Discussion Thread - Page 487 - AVS Forum
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post #14581 of 15007 Old 05-24-2012, 12:32 PM
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Hey guys, what's the difference in performance in choosing the "elite" patch from Turbe or getting the "elite" replacement board? Should I just get one or the other, or both? I have a 600-M Thanks
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post #14582 of 15007 Old 05-24-2012, 01:04 PM
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The 600m has the elite board already installed , the patch will open up the isf calibration modes ,HTH

Mark
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post #14583 of 15007 Old 05-24-2012, 10:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bud B View Post

Hi all,
This may be a strange question but here goes..
It concerns the Speaker Bar that hangs below my Pioneer PDP-5020FD Kuro.
I just purchased a Pioneer Elite VSX 52 A/V Receiver and I am using the 5020's speaker bar as the Center speaker, which really sounds Great as a Center Channel Speaker!
In fact today you see Speaker Bars for sale everywhere, the Speaker Bar on the 5020 Sounds as Great as it Looks..Pioneer was really ahead of the game with this concept!

I initially decided to wire the Speaker Bar in "Series" thinking that the Speaker bar is 2 separate Speaker Config's at 6 to 8 ohms each.
I could not find it's actual spec's in my 5020 OP Manual, only that the 5020's amp is rated at 6 Ohms.

In parallel two 8 Ohm speakers would drop my Ohms Load to 4 Ohms and my Elite VSX 52 receiver wants either a minimum of 6 or 8 Ohm speaker loads and is happy up to 16 Ohm Loads.
So if the Speaker Bar was say two 8 Ohm Loads then a "Series" wiring configuration would give me 16 Ohms.
Wiring would be Positive from E52 to Positive on one set of speaker posts and Negative from E52 to Negative on the other Speaker connection then a short wire connects the remaining two connectors from each speaker which is Positive to Negative. A simple Series Wiring Configuration as seen below.
Attachment 217638

However when I did this, I got absolutely no Audio from the Sound Bar (Checked my Wiring and it was correct) and only after changing the wiring to "Parallel"
(Positive to Positive and Negative to Negative) did the Sound Bar come to life and that is how it is still Wired today...

My question is "Why No Audio in Series?"

Is there some kind of Crossover between the two inputs that did not like my "Series" setup?

Granted I do not think that my Receiver will blow up from a probable 4 Ohm Speaker load for the Center Channel and my receiver will never get anywhere near Peak / Clip Levels!
I live in an Apartment Building..I would get Bangs on my Wall from my wonderful Neighbor long before that! LOL!
Just curios.
I have set my expected Speaker Load on my Elite VSX 52 to 6 Ohms to get at least within 2 Ohms of Load.

Does anyone know what the specs for the Sound Bar is?

Thanks,
Bud B

PS. My New Pioneer Elite VSX 52 Sounds Great and is a Good Match for my Pio Kuro - A Nice Setup!
I still Love my Kuro and it's Video looks as Great Today, as the Day I bought it!

Has anyone answered his questions yet? In considering using my speaker bar as a center or the "presence speakers" with my Yamaha RX-A710.

Kuro owner from Cleveland Plasma.

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post #14584 of 15007 Old 05-25-2012, 06:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by qwknuf6 View Post

The 600m has the elite board already installed , the patch will open up the isf calibration modes ,HTH

Mark

Thanks
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post #14585 of 15007 Old 05-30-2012, 08:56 AM
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Searched the thread a bit and didn't find an absolute answer to this question:

What happens when you send a PAL/50hz signal to a 6020?

I have a few concert vids that are only avail on PAL (angry!) and I'm considering either a player that either converts to 60hz or outputs 50hz.

What do I have to worry about? The color space is different too, isn't it?

James

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post #14586 of 15007 Old 05-31-2012, 03:35 AM
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Sending 50hz PAL video should work just fine.

larry

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post #14587 of 15007 Old 06-01-2012, 06:00 AM
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^ Sweet jesus. You're my hero. There are so many concert blu rays from the UK only available in 50hz that I really thought I'd have to buy a BD player that would convert 50 to 60hz.

My understanding is the PAL vs NTSC stuff (resolution and color space) isn't really an issue anymore with BDs, it's just the 50 vs 60 refresh, correct?

thanks again!

James

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post #14588 of 15007 Old 06-03-2012, 01:10 AM
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Hi everyone, I've had my 6020 in Japan feeding it 50HZ signal for years no issues. Still working strong, just some buzz but no other major repairs NONE. Looking to hard mount this heavy beast if we move into another place. Since we had the big earthquake I've been pretty spooked about getting it bolted down. Thanks for the post with mounts. I compare what's avail here in Japan. Nice to see this TV is still help in very high regard even after all these years. I've been considering upgrading to a larger screen but the reviews of 80" haven't been great. would be interested in the board upgrade to Elite if isn't a labor intensive task.
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post #14589 of 15007 Old 06-03-2012, 05:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by value View Post

Hi everyone, I've had my 6020 in Japan feeding it 50HZ signal for years no issues. Still working strong, just some buzz but no other major repairs NONE. Looking to hard mount this heavy beast if we move into another place. Since we had the big earthquake I've been pretty spooked about getting it bolted down. Thanks for the post with mounts. I compare what's avail here in Japan. Nice to see this TV is still help in very high regard even after all these years. I've been considering upgrading to a larger screen but the reviews of 80" haven't been great. would be interested in the board upgrade to Elite if isn't a labor intensive task.

If you are thinking of wall mounting your Kuro I would suggest using a Sanus VMPL3-B. I've used that mount with my 141 & 6020. As far as the board swap it is a pretty easy swap to do with common hand tools in about an 1 1/2 hours. If you are interested in a board I have 4 available for sale. If you are interested PM me for more info.
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post #14590 of 15007 Old 06-04-2012, 01:49 AM
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Thanks for the mount info. Does the board swap require any soldering or is a unplug and swap changeout?
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post #14591 of 15007 Old 06-04-2012, 11:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by value View Post

Thanks for the mount info. Does the board swap require any soldering or is a unplug and swap changeout?

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1226671
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post #14592 of 15007 Old 06-09-2012, 06:36 AM
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Well I hit a snag on my board swap plans, my remote right/left arrows don't work so I can'r adjust anything! Can you still by a new remote for a 6020 ?
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post #14593 of 15007 Old 06-09-2012, 07:07 AM
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http://remotes.com/ might help?
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post #14594 of 15007 Old 06-09-2012, 09:49 AM
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I'm looking for help with my Kuro 5020 and it's OTA digital tuner. I pick up a few channels with my antenna no problem, but I wanted to get rid of some channels that didn't come in very well. I went through and deleted all the channels in the channel management page figuring I could re-scan everything. Unfortunately now it wont re-scan the channels I used to get no matter what I do. It's deleted them forever! How do I reset this? I wanted to try a factory reset but couldn't figure out how. The only thing I could find was this: http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Home/Plasma/I+have+lost+the+TV+Guide+listings+on+my+plasma+TV.+How+do+I+get+them+back but I'm not sure what they mean by "Go to TV Guide" and I don't think it's addressing my exact problem. I was going to watch the hockey game tonight too frown.gif

EDIT: I updated the firmware and it let me rescan... phew!
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post #14595 of 15007 Old 06-09-2012, 11:54 AM
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Wow this is still a sticky.. Can't believe we're in 2012 and the Kuro still reigns supreme.. Best purchase ever! Even if I did do a lot of whining a few years ago biggrin.gif

Be a fan of displays, not companies or technologies!
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post #14596 of 15007 Old 06-10-2012, 08:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrick. View Post

Wow this is still a sticky.. Can't believe we're in 2012 and the Kuro still reigns supreme.. Best purchase ever! Even if I did do a lot of whining a few years ago biggrin.gif

It's a great set, and so far still the king, I was pleasantly surprised to read the following paragraph in a review this week from http://reviews.cnet.com/flat-panel-tvs/panasonic-tc-p65vt50/4505-6482_7-35118305.html
Quote:
The only TVs that can compete with the Panasonic VT50 are the Sharp Elite and, yes, that hoary veteran the Pioneer Kuro (circa 2008). Ignoring size differences (the Kuro maxed out at 60 inches) and the fact that you can't get one anymore, I actually would still rather watch the Kuro than this Panasonic -- but it's very close.
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post #14597 of 15007 Old 06-10-2012, 12:53 PM
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Anyone know where I can buy a table top stand for my 5020, in Canada? I bought the tv without a stand, and now I sorely need one.

Also, is there a list of compatible stands that work with the 5020? I remember reading some posts here about somebody modifying a stand from another model (maybe the 101 or 500m) to work with their 5020.

Does anyone have one that they are not using or ever planning to use, that they could sell to me?
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post #14598 of 15007 Old 06-14-2012, 05:15 AM
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fixed it
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post #14599 of 15007 Old 06-14-2012, 01:40 PM
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I have this, too, but it is a vertical blotch starting at the top center of the screen. It's most noticeable when watching golf and they track a shot in the air. Otherwise I really have to be looking for it on a light screen and I don't notice it at all on anything dark. It would be nice to get rid of it but I'm not optimistic.
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post #14600 of 15007 Old 06-15-2012, 11:51 PM
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Will the speakers (SMW 2026A) from a 151 fit onto a 6020?
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post #14601 of 15007 Old 07-05-2012, 08:48 AM
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I've been a proud owner of a 5020 for the past several years, but I've recently run into an issue that's driving me nuts, and I'm hoping that one of you can offer some advice. I recently got a new Pioneer VSX-52 receiver that I'm now running all my components through (PS3, Cable Box, Wii, and HTPC). My old receiver did not support HDMI switching, so my video components were run directly to the TV, with separate audio cables run to the receiver. This allowed me to run my cable box and PS3 to video inputs that used the standard video setting, while the input for my HTPC was configured as a PC input on the TV.

The issue that I'm running into is that now that all of my video is running through the receiver, which is set to pass-through, I have to use the same input type for all of my components. If I select Video, my HTPC source is significantly over-scanned. So I'm not able to use the full 1920x1080 resolution. A bunch of the desktop, and any running application appears off screen, and I am forced to use a custom resolution to make the entire desktop visible. If I select PC, then I see the entire resolution of the HTPC, but I lose many of the settings that allow me to customize the other video sources (i.e. contrast, sharpness, PureCinema, etc.).

It seems like there should be a solution to this, but I haven't been able to find one. To me it seems like my only options are:
  1. Use the custom resolution, and lose out on pixels that I think should work.
  2. Run the HTPC video directly to the TV and run the audio to the receiver separately via optical cable.
  3. Run the HTPC video and audio to the TV and run the audio to the receiver via HDMI return audio (Not even sure if the PDP-5020 supports this).

None of these solutions seems ideal. #1 seems like it's a loss of quality, as the image is being scaled multiple times. #2 and #3 seem like they have a huge potential for de-syncing the audio with the video. Am I missing something? Any help/advice that could be offered would be much appreciated.

Thanks in advance.
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post #14602 of 15007 Old 07-05-2012, 10:13 AM
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CamelToad, I had similar HTPC video issues but I was able to solve them, mostly. Yet, you failed to identify if you run with an nVidia or ATI video card, and since my issues are nVidia, I may be able to help, and I may not be able to help.

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post #14603 of 15007 Old 07-05-2012, 01:35 PM
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jmmesch,

I'm running an old (at least by today's standards) NVidia card right now. I'm hoping to refresh in the near future with an Ivy Bridge setup, using the integrated HD4000 graphics, but any help that you could provide in the interim would be great.

If you think your suggestions are appropriate for this forum, please post them here in case others may find them useful. However, if they're specific to our situation, and not the PDP-5020 community as a whole, perhaps an offline, or PM discussion would be better.

Thanks!
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post #14604 of 15007 Old 07-05-2012, 03:36 PM
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Get rid of that old nVidia card and for $39.99 net after $15 rebate get a GT 520 2GB card. It needs no line power.

But go into nVidia Control Panel, not Windows CP, and select Adjust desktop size and position. On my PCs, and all PC screens, Scaling is set to Aspect Ratio, and it is a default. On my HTPC that was changed to no scaling, and perform scaling scaling on, set that to Display first, If that's not much better, set that to GPU.

On my PC I have two screens, a 27" that is 1920 x 1080p @ 60HZ, and a 24" screen, that 1920 x 1200 @ 60Hz.

The only screen my HTPC has is the Pioneer Pro 151FD. If I set that to Aspect Ratio I see what you see. On No scaling and on Display, it's much closer, but not perfect.

This is because our PC screens are scaled 16 X 10 whereas the TV is 16 X 9.

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post #14605 of 15007 Old 07-24-2012, 09:42 PM
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Pro-111fd won't power on. Standby light is off and when i plug power cord in back there is a flashing red light in back of tv for a few seconds and then nothing. Is the Kuro dead or do I need a new power supply? Thanks.
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post #14606 of 15007 Old 07-25-2012, 08:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by levy07 View Post

Pro-111fd won't power on. Standby light is off and when i plug power cord in back there is a flashing red light in back of tv for a few seconds and then nothing. Is the Kuro dead or do I need a new power supply? Thanks.

Nevermind. I did some research and figured out I pressed a power button on bottom of tv by accident. Sure glad it was nothing serious cause the tv's I was looking at just don't compare.
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post #14607 of 15007 Old 07-25-2012, 12:47 PM
 
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^Which TVs were you looking at out of curiosity? The Panasonic VT50 comes the closest but still not quite there.
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post #14608 of 15007 Old 07-28-2012, 10:47 AM
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Originally Posted by vinnie97 View Post

^Which TVs were you looking at out of curiosity? The Panasonic VT50 comes the closest but still not quite there.

I am wondering this too. I have a 50' KURO that has been calibrated and I am wanting to get a 60'+ for the living room. I have been spoiled by the KURO and am wondering if there is anything out there that will even come close.
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post #14609 of 15007 Old 07-28-2012, 11:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caunyd View Post

Will the speakers (SMW 2026A) from a 151 fit onto a 6020?

Yes. I mounted the SMW 2026A speakers on my PDP-6020FD. The fit is nearly perfect. All of the hardware fits without any modification. I have also mounted the PRO-150FD speakers on a PDP-6010FD I own. Again, all the hardware fits without any modification.
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post #14610 of 15007 Old 10-19-2012, 09:55 AM
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Well I joined the Kuro game late, but ended up with a deal I couldn't refuse from Craigslist. I've been an owner of a 55" Panny ST30 for the last year, but immediately put that up for sale after getting the 6020FD; overall, it has met my expectations, and I have had very high ones, as I haven't had the opportunity to observe a Kuro under this setting (at home, with time). I have a couple of comments/questions.

1. Though the contrast/color is A LOT better, the sharpness from HD OTA signals that I receive through my Xbox 360 (via my computer's TV tuner) is not as sharp/crisp as it was with my Panasonic. I'm assuming this has to do with the modern video tech found in the ST30. I currently own a Denon 1712, which only does HDMI pass through. Do you think a receiver that uses tech to upgrade 720p/1080i images (specifically from OTA broadcasts) would perhaps "deal" with the problem? I'm thinking so, but I have never been clear on whether or not that upconverting would affect images from an Xbox, which is connected via HDMI, and says "1080p" on the television.

2. Is it me, or does the movie mode seem a little lacking? Tears didn't come to my eyes, while watching Planet Earth, until I switched over to Sport/Game modes. Would these be considered "torch modes"? The picture was on constant POP mode while watching the Avengers in Game mode. I've never experienced POP like this--I've only read about it. What a delight.

3. For the non-professionals out there who don't have an engineering degree, is "fiddling with" ControlCal worth the trouble?

4. Has anyone played with that Darbee device I've been reading about, lately? I wasn't even aware of its existence until this last week. I wonder if that might be worth looking into, or getting a receiver that can upconvert images be the ticket?
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