The Official Pioneer 9G non-Elite KURO Owner's Discussion Thread - Page 502 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #15031 of 15046 Old 05-01-2016, 07:27 AM
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Whew!! It took awhile to find that this thread still exist!!! Just found a 5020 at a pawn shop for about $400. No remote. I plan to bring my own remote and a blu-ray player. How do I check the hours (I never bothered to check mine since it wasn't going anywhere)? If it checks out ok, It will replace my current one (that will be the spare) till death.
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post #15032 of 15046 Old 05-02-2016, 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by aquastar View Post
Whew!! It took awhile to find that this thread still exist!!! Just found a 5020 at a pawn shop for about $400. No remote. I plan to bring my own remote and a blu-ray player. How do I check the hours (I never bothered to check mine since it wasn't going anywhere)? If it checks out ok, It will replace my current one (that will be the spare) till death.
You need a windows pc, usb to serial adapter, a serial cable and software. I developed software, called KuroKapture (link in my sig) which captures all service menu settings and statistics (including both hour meters, yes there are two of them) and dumps it in a text file. The first post in the KuroKapture thread has links to the required hardware.
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JVC DLA-RS4810
Pioneer Kuro KRP-500M
Pioneer Kuro PRO-141FD
Pioneer Kuro PRO-151FD
Pioneer Kuro PRO-111FD
Pioneer Kuro PDP-5020
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post #15033 of 15046 Old 05-03-2016, 05:59 AM
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Thank you, but alas I was too late as someone has beat me to it and locked it in their layaway. I will save your info for future reference. Again thank you very much.
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post #15034 of 15046 Old 05-27-2016, 07:09 PM
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So Ive had my 5020 since January of 09, and its made two trips across the pacific when I was stationed in korea. It made it unscathed, except after i got it back about a month ago, after its return trip, it buzzes like pretty loud now. Loud enough that it is super annoying during quiet sections of movies and always audible regardless.

The is pretty obviously coming from the power supply board, has anyone tried replacing the power supply board to fix the buzzing?

Pioneer PDP 5020 E-Lite modded-Emotiva ERM-1's-Epik Sentinel
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post #15035 of 15046 Old 05-27-2016, 09:39 PM
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So Ive had my 5020 since January of 09, and its made two trips across the pacific when I was stationed in korea. It made it unscathed, except after i got it back about a month ago, after its return trip, it buzzes like pretty loud now. Loud enough that it is super annoying during quiet sections of movies and always audible regardless.

The is pretty obviously coming from the power supply board, has anyone tried replacing the power supply board to fix the buzzing?
It shouldn't be hard if you've ever changed a card on a PC. It's easier than replacing a mother board. There are probably videos on line that could help you. Mainly it's removing a lot of screws and being careful with computer like connections and static electricity.

I've watched a main board being replaced, but someone who has done a power supply board may see your post and reply.
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post #15036 of 15046 Old 05-27-2016, 10:14 PM
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Originally Posted by htwaits View Post
It shouldn't be hard if you've ever changed a card on a PC. It's easier than replacing a mother board. There are probably videos on line that could help you. Mainly it's removing a lot of screws and being careful with computer like connections and static electricity.

I've watched a main board being replaced, but someone who has done a power supply board may see your post and reply.

Yeah, I'm not worried about swapping the board itself, i did the audio board replacement to get the elite calibration stuff, i was just wondering if anyone had done it and fixed buzzing.

man taking off all those screws is a pain though...specially since i had to do it twice, i jacked up the ribbon the first time >.>

Pioneer PDP 5020 E-Lite modded-Emotiva ERM-1's-Epik Sentinel
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post #15037 of 15046 Old 05-27-2016, 11:52 PM
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Originally Posted by SoupRknowva View Post
Yeah, I'm not worried about swapping the board itself, i did the audio board replacement to get the elite calibration stuff, i was just wondering if anyone had done it and fixed buzzing.

man taking off all those screws is a pain though...specially since i had to do it twice, i jacked up the ribbon the first time >.>
You've got the skills, but now you need a diagnosis. Have you searched this thread using "buzzing"? I just got 350 hits.
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post #15038 of 15046 Old 07-13-2016, 12:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gundam91 View Post
<div class="quote-container"><span>Quote:</span>
<div class="quote-block">Originally Posted by <strong>xphan99</strong> <a href="/forum/post/18037979"><img alt="View Post" class="inlineimg" src="/img/forum/go_quote.gif" style=""></a><br><br>
My 11 month old 6020 developed a strange problem. I use it mostly to watch OTA programs. When I channel surfing and going through channel 26.3 (KTSF-D3, SF Bay area) the digital tuner would freeze and show "Starting up. Please wait". Once in that state, turning on/off or power cycle won't recover. However, last time I waited a day it came back with channel 2.<br><br>
Contacted TV Unlimited for warranty repair. Did anyone ever have had this problem? A s/w bug? A TV killing station?</div>
</div>
<br>
I just figured out and fixed my Elite Pro-151FD with the same problem. I tried waiting it out for a day with everything unplugged (twice) and it didn't recover.<br><br>
So this is what I did today, and it fixed the issue:<br>
- Go to Pioneer's website and download the firmware upgrade. Read the instructions carefully a few times before you do anything.<br>
- Read the instructions again!<br>
- Stick a USB stick into your computer, remove everything on there, and reformat it.<br>
- Unzip the firmware upgarde file, and copy the folder "Update" to the USB drive.<br>
- Read the instructions again, and double check everything.<br>
- Follow the instructions (turn on the TV, unplug powercord, then stick USB into the TV, plug in the powercord, and turn on the TV.)<br><br><i><span style="color:#FF0000;">This is the tricky part</span></i><br>
- the TV will turn on, and you will see a bar of text telling you the TV is restarting. And it will restart a few times. The orange light will not turn on as per the instruction sheet. But don't panic.<br>
- Double check to see that there is a faint glow of red light around the USB connector. (That means the USB is working)<br>
- Leave the TV be, go grab a bite or something and come back in 30 minutes. You should see that the blue light and the red light will flash alternately. Double check to see that the red glow around the USB connector has been shut off. If not, leave the TV alone until the glow is gone.<br>
- Follow the instruction manual to unplug the powercord.<br>
- Remove the USB drive.<br>
- Turn on the TV. You should see a message that the firmware update was successful. The TV will restart again automatically. And the first thing is that the channel 26.3 will come back on.<br>
- Go to the set up menu and have the TV scan all the channels again.<br>
- Set your favorite channels.<br>
- You should be all set to go.<br><br>
FrankC
Thanks goodness someone ran into this issue, channel 26.3, as well. I thought a new TV was due.

Thanks for the post.
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post #15039 of 15046 Old 07-21-2016, 07:45 AM
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Originally Posted by makaveddie81 View Post
Even if you don't use the speakers, the audio board is still a likely culprit. Plus, unlocking the Elite features via the audio board mod will breathe new life into your set. The non Elite sets were crippled with regards to calibration and although the grey scale can be calibrated via the service menu, gamma and other features (including color space) are locked down.

Gamma on the non Elites is locked between 2.0 and 2.1, while the colors are way off since it's locked on color space 1. I can definitely tell the difference between my 5020's and Elite sets and its mainly because of gamma and colors.

I haven't used the guy's service yet but know of people who did and recommended others to do the same. Turn around time was around a week total.
Been meaning to come back to this thread and thank you.......

I went along with the repair and so far so good, (knock on wood) So happy that my Kuro has life again. I am in the basement now with my 55inch Panasonic ST60 (great TV in its own right) but every time I walk by the 50" Pioneer Kuro 5020FD while my wife is watching, the picture just pops out.....Can't beat a Plasma.
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Display#1: Pioneer Kuro Plasma PDP-5020FD (Living RM)
Display#2: Panasonic Plasma TC-P55ST60 (Rec-RM)
Receiver: Pioneer VSX-1326-k (Living RM) & Pioneer Elite SC-95 (Rec-RM)
Speakers: Bose 6 Series III (LivingRM) & Pioneer SP-FS52 (L&R) SP-C22 (Center) SP-BS22A (L&R Rear Atmos Ready)
Sources: Panasonic BDT360 -- Sony BDP-S350 -- PS3 & PS4 -- HTPC
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post #15040 of 15046 Old 08-04-2016, 07:14 AM
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5020 purchased new May 2010
converted to E-lite with AWW1353 board
ISF calibrated

With the bluray and or dvr connected to HDMI 6 the picture turns snowy, blanks out as well as loss of audio. Other times no picture is displayed and only the input id is shown.
This issue happens randomly and occurs upon first startup or while watching tv.
The issue usually corrects itself within five minutes without any intervention from me.

Does this issue warrant replacement of the main board?
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post #15041 of 15046 Old 03-04-2017, 05:59 PM
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I certainly hope some are still subscribed to this thread. After losing our home and everything else in the flood of 8-13-16 (ironically just after the last post on this thread), after ~7 months I'm only now getting around to seeing if my 5020 worked, I dreaded it. To my shock, (it was on the floor at the time) after getting 18" of water up it, it still looks flawless. However, there is no audio. I was able to find one external speaker that didn't get wet, and it works hooked up to the TV's external terminals (I was going to use those anyway) so apparently the audio circuitry is still ok. But I'm wondering about a couple of things please: I can't see in the manual where the TV's internal speakers are located, does anyone know? Are they at the top of the TV, or bottom? It's in such a position now that I can't totally get to it to try and find the internal speakers. Is there a setting somewhere that may have the internal speakers turned off? If so, and they are turned on, then I should turn them off since they don't work.

I only tried a Blu-Ray video on a USB drive. Since the PQ is still perfect, would there be any reason to suspect the HDMI input(s) for a cable box would no longer work? I have no way right now of getting a cable line and STB hooked up to it or else I would simply check.

Thanks.

God Bless,
-Clint
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post #15042 of 15046 Old 03-05-2017, 05:25 AM
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TL;DR: To the best of my knowledge, there is no "internal" speaker that produces audio for what you're watching on the screen; only the external soundbar that attaches to the TV.

I had no idea I was still subscribed to this thread, so that is neat. Anyhoo, the speakers on both the 5020 and 6020 are external and connect via the speaker-wire terminals on the back on the unit. The speakers can be removed by unscrewing the metal brackets mounting them to the TV and said brackets mount the speaker below the TV. Basically, it looks like a built-in/flush soundbar. If those are there then they are most likely toast after being submerged in water for an extended period of time. If they are not there, I don't personally know of any 'internal' speaker in addition to said sound bar.

If the terminals on the back work when you connect external speakers (which it sounds like they do) then you could potentionally/reasonably hook up something small to the TV. This would indicate it is not a HDMI issue (since you produced sound via the TV and external speaker) so that shouldn't be an issue. You can always use a receiver to produce sound just as you would in any normal theater or surround setup.
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post #15043 of 15046 Old 03-05-2017, 05:20 PM
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Thanks for the reply. Yeah, actually I found out from another reply (different thread) that it comes with the "sound bar", I had totally forgotten about that! It was never connected, and last night I found it outside partially vertical. I can't remember where it was when it flooded, but appears to have gotten wet, maybe 1/3 of it. I sterilized it, hooked it up, and incredibly, that also works! Not only does it work, but I'm actually blown away at the sound quality. HTH they got bass out of this skinny thing is amazing, there must be some PR's in it. I expected it to be cheap and tinny sounding, like a bad tweeter. It would seem Pioneer made a most robust TV in that Kuro line for both the TV and speakers to make it through a flood. Even if it powered up, and pseudo-worked, I was convinced there was no way the screen would still be perfect. Either the actual speaker drivers are poly, or they'll soon "fly apart" from the vibration, LoL.

This brings another issue though, I can't find any of the sound bar mounting hardware. No brackets, and the screws are metric so that's going to be almost as hard to find as the proprietary brackets. I don't see any P/N's for them in the manual, does anyone know please? I have to use it because that one single mini-bookshelf speaker I found when I tested the audio is all I have left. All of my speakers were lost (and since I was in the business of speakers for a long time, that was A LOT of them). So I'm going to need to mount the speaker bar. Thanks. (BTW, the speaker bar is a SMW2023-A, I'm looking into mounting hardware now).

God Bless,
-Clint

Last edited by Clint S.; 03-05-2017 at 05:25 PM.
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post #15044 of 15046 Old 03-05-2017, 06:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Clint S. View Post
Thanks for the reply. Yeah, actually I found out from another reply (different thread) that it comes with the "sound bar", I had totally forgotten about that! It was never connected, and last night I found it outside partially vertical. I can't remember where it was when it flooded, but appears to have gotten wet, maybe 1/3 of it. I sterilized it, hooked it up, and incredibly, that also works! Not only does it work, but I'm actually blown away at the sound quality. HTH they got bass out of this skinny thing is amazing, there must be some PR's in it. I expected it to be cheap and tinny sounding, like a bad tweeter. It would seem Pioneer made a most robust TV in that Kuro line for both the TV and speakers to make it through a flood. Even if it powered up, and pseudo-worked, I was convinced there was no way the screen would still be perfect. Either the actual speaker drivers are poly, or they'll soon "fly apart" from the vibration, LoL.

This brings another issue though, I can't find any of the sound bar mounting hardware. No brackets, and the screws are metric so that's going to be almost as hard to find as the proprietary brackets. I don't see any P/N's for them in the manual, does anyone know please? I have to use it because that one single mini-bookshelf speaker I found when I tested the audio is all I have left. All of my speakers were lost (and since I was in the business of speakers for a long time, that was A LOT of them). So I'm going to need to mount the speaker bar. Thanks. (BTW, the speaker bar is a SMW2023-A, I'm looking into mounting hardware now).
The speaker bracket kit (side), you will need 2, is SXG1158.
The speaker bracket kit (center) is SXG1159.
The mounting screws are SBA1292, not sure if that is for one screw or all.
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post #15045 of 15046 Old 03-05-2017, 07:06 PM
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The speaker bracket kit (side), you will need 2, is SXG1158.
The speaker bracket kit (center) is SXG1159.
The mounting screws are SBA1292, not sure if that is for one screw or all.
Hey thanks a bunch for the info! Holy crap, ~$150+ for tiny brackets?!?!? Looks like I'll be either trying to make my own, or just do without brackets. But at least now I know the P/N's. They've got to be around here somewhere because I don't ever throw anything away that important. But then again, the "house gutters" could have gotten their overzealous hands on it because they DID throw away everything, even things that never got wet!

God Bless,
-Clint

Last edited by Clint S.; 03-05-2017 at 08:07 PM.
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post #15046 of 15046 Old 03-06-2017, 01:31 PM
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PDP-6010 here. After nearly 9 years of faithful, beautiful service, my beloved panel has failed me. My panel is wall-mounted and has a single HDMI cable connected. At the other end, my Denon processor which switches all A/V sources.

The symptoms of the panel failure are as follow:
  • Screen is black on primary HDMI source
  • TV does appear to "detect" an inbound signal, since switching inputs on the AVR causes the TV to react, displaying the inbound resolution, etc
  • Inbuilt menus on the TV all work/display as expected

This is different from the more seemingly common issues of the 8- or 12- blue blinks that others have reported. Any guidance you lot can offer on what I should do next? I'd really like to keep this TV alive a bit longer, while I wait for OLED panels to drop in price a bit further.
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