The Official Pioneer 9G Elite KURO Owner's Discussion Thread - Page 1029 - AVS | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #30841 of 30854 Old 02-18-2015, 10:26 AM
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Seems overpriced, 500A are generally found around the 700-900€ mark in western Europe.
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post #30842 of 30854 Old 02-18-2015, 12:25 PM
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Originally Posted by First XBR View Post
Yeah, I was going to drive from riverside/corona to go pick it up. I am a very trustworthy person. If the person says there is nothing wrong with something why wouldn't I believe them. But man those are many thing's I wouldn't know how to check. Except to power it on & off. I have never owned a pioneer plasma.
Other than the scratches on the screen, its poor physical condition (owner didn't even dust it off / wipe it down before I got there) and the slight red tint, the set passed all the other tests. So it's just a matter of whether or not you can live with the scratches on the screen. You probably will have to buy a new remote, as it was badly beat up and had some sort of white paint splattered over it.

There's a good reason why it's been up on CL for months and nobody has bit on it despite its crazy low price.
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post #30843 of 30854 Old 02-18-2015, 12:30 PM
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Originally Posted by robusta View Post
Hi everyone,

@ makaveddie81: Thanks for your tips before purchasing a Kuro.

Would it be worth buying a KRP-500M (10200 hours according to seller) for 1100 euros or a KRP-500ABG (3200 hours) for 1300 euros?
I am hunting a pioneer plasma. I am also considering a 5090h for less than 500 euros.

Many thanks for your advices.

R
The price for the 500M is roughly $1200 so I don't think it's that bad of a deal IF the panel is in pristine condition and has no defects with regards to picture. Does it come with the stand and remote? Perhaps you can negotiate a lower price?

I slightly overpaid for my 101fd and 141fd but only because they were excellent panels (until I idiotically reset the 101fd). The sting of overpaying quickly wears off, especially considering how hard it is to find Kuros with no defects with regards to picture and physical condition.
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post #30844 of 30854 Old 02-18-2015, 03:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by makaveddie81 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by First XBR View Post
Yeah, I was going to drive from riverside/corona to go pick it up. I am a very trustworthy person. If the person says there is nothing wrong with something why wouldn't I believe them. But man those are many thing's I wouldn't know how to check. Except to power it on & off. I have never owned a pioneer plasma.
Other than the scratches on the screen, its poor physical condition (owner didn't even dust it off / wipe it down before I got there) and the slight red tint, the set passed all the other tests. So it's just a matter of whether or not you can live with the scratches on the screen. You probably will have to buy a new remote, as it was badly beat up and had some sort of white paint splattered over it.

There's a good reason why it's been up on CL for months and nobody has bit on it despite its crazy low price.

Do you think a 5080HD for $300 is a fair deal ? I am getting rid of my XBR960 so I need another display. My Sony 52W5100 doesn't cut it. I think I am going to save up some money & hope when the holidays get here a forum member decides to part ways with there Kuro.
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post #30845 of 30854 Old 02-18-2015, 05:26 PM
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Originally Posted by First XBR View Post
Do you think a 5080HD for $300 is a fair deal ? I am getting rid of my XBR960 so I need another display. My Sony 52W5100 doesn't cut it. I think I am going to save up some money & hope when the holidays get here a forum member decides to part ways with there Kuro.
Not sure what the 5080HD's US equivalent is, so can't say. Honestly, if the 500M is in tip top shape, get it. Otherwise, you're better off waiting for the holidays.
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post #30846 of 30854 Old 02-18-2015, 07:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by makaveddie81 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by First XBR View Post
Do you think a 5080HD for $300 is a fair deal ? I am getting rid of my XBR960 so I need another display. My Sony 52W5100 doesn't cut it. I think I am going to save up some money & hope when the holidays get here a forum member decides to part ways with there Kuro.
Not sure what the 5080HD's US equivalent is, so can't say. Honestly, if the 500M is in tip top shape, get it. Otherwise, you're better off waiting for the holidays.


Here is a review.
http://www.cnet.com/products/pioneer-kuro-pdp-5080-hd/
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post #30847 of 30854 Old 02-19-2015, 03:05 AM
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Thanks to both of you makaveddie81 and Inarbi,Yes the TV comes with the stand (and packaging), the remote control has not been used. The TV has been used in Eco mode with image orbiter enabled. Not used for console gaming.

I used to have a Panasonic ST50 series, will I really gain in terms of picture quality?

Thanks.

R
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post #30848 of 30854 Old 02-25-2015, 03:13 AM
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Originally Posted by makaveddie81 View Post
So it was the one in Oak Park?

I've checked out many Kuros - even driving 3.5 hours and walking away - and can suggest you do the following when inspecting a potential Kuro purchase:

Always inspect after the sun is down and have seller get room as dark as possible to easily spot red tint. Can't tell you how many times brought Kuros home and discovered red tint due to testing them with the seller during broad daylight.

Check for dead/stuck pixels using full field color slides (make sure you go through all the colors, since some stuck pixels only manifest themselves only on specific colors.)

Check for burn in/IR using full field color slides (again go through all primary and secondary colors).

Power the TV off and on (using power button on lower left corner of bezel) multiple times and ensure that it properly powers on (no blue LED flashes). Sets with faulty audio boards/resistor on audio board will fail to power on intermittently, prompting blue LED to flash. This does not apply to 101fd and 141fd.

Use Kuro Kapture (link on my sig) to get a report of the set's current configuration/status. On the report, check for usage hours (making sure the hour meter was not reset), check for pulse meter counts (making sure pulse meter was not reset... there should be no more than two leading zeros on all pulse meters), ensure voltages are at default and previous owner did not tinker with them, and check the power down and shut down logs (these tell you if the panel shut off unexpectedly due to an underlying issue... they should all be 0).

If there is nothing wrong with the panel and the owner has nothing to hide, then the owner should have no reservations for you doing all this. From experience, I can tell you that most Kuros on the market have underlying issues. Sure there are exceptions, such as owners needing financial relief, upgrade to bigger size, etc. Also, you get what you pay for. If you see a deal that is too good to be true, then more than likely, it's too good to be true and the panel will have issues. You're better off paying a bit more for a fully working Kuro than saving a few hundred bucks and ending up with a lemon.
Hi makaveddie81,

I read the tips before purchasing a Kuro. I am still hunting. A potential 500M to view over the weekend.

About the full field color slides, where do I get it?
Is Kuro capture free?

Many thanks.

R
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post #30849 of 30854 Old 02-25-2015, 01:32 PM
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Any one with good settings for pro fd151 with DTV genie receiver?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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post #30850 of 30854 Old 02-25-2015, 11:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robusta View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by makaveddie81 View Post
So it was the one in Oak Park?

I've checked out many Kuros - even driving 3.5 hours and walking away - and can suggest you do the following when inspecting a potential Kuro purchase:

Always inspect after the sun is down and have seller get room as dark as possible to easily spot red tint. Can't tell you how many times brought Kuros home and discovered red tint due to testing them with the seller during broad daylight.

Check for dead/stuck pixels using full field color slides (make sure you go through all the colors, since some stuck pixels only manifest themselves only on specific colors.)

Check for burn in/IR using full field color slides (again go through all primary and secondary colors).

Power the TV off and on (using power button on lower left corner of bezel) multiple times and ensure that it properly powers on (no blue LED flashes). Sets with faulty audio boards/resistor on audio board will fail to power on intermittently, prompting blue LED to flash. This does not apply to 101fd and 141fd.

Use Kuro Kapture (link on my sig) to get a report of the set's current configuration/status. On the report, check for usage hours (making sure the hour meter was not reset), check for pulse meter counts (making sure pulse meter was not reset... there should be no more than two leading zeros on all pulse meters), ensure voltages are at default and previous owner did not tinker with them, and check the power down and shut down logs (these tell you if the panel shut off unexpectedly due to an underlying issue... they should all be 0).

If there is nothing wrong with the panel and the owner has nothing to hide, then the owner should have no reservations for you doing all this. From experience, I can tell you that most Kuros on the market have underlying issues. Sure there are exceptions, such as owners needing financial relief, upgrade to bigger size, etc. Also, you get what you pay for. If you see a deal that is too good to be true, then more than likely, it's too good to be true and the panel will have issues. You're better off paying a bit more for a fully working Kuro than saving a few hundred bucks and ending up with a lemon.
Hi makaveddie81,

I read the tips before purchasing a Kuro. I am still hunting. A potential 500M to view over the weekend.

About the full field color slides, where do I get it?
Is Kuro capture free?

Many thanks.

R
You can find the color slides on the AVSHD709 calibration disc (download linkn in first post):

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-di.../topics/948496

Or you can use the break in slides thay DNice recommends for breaking in a Kuro (download link in first post):

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/167-pl...1053444?page=1

Kuro Kapture was free at one point, but going through some tough times right now so made it a $25 proposition (took a lot of work to get that program done). The way I look at it is, a $25 investment will allow you to get a history (similar to a carfax) for an unlimited number of Kuros so you can make an informed purchase decision and not end up with a lemon. Check my sig for links to both my programs.
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post #30851 of 30854 Old 02-27-2015, 10:13 PM
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I've been using 111FD mainly as a external monitor for my laptop...
- 33% web surfing & word processing
- 33% gaming
- 33% anime, k-drama, j-dorama and FOX's new miniseries Empire (2015)

Can range HDMI range of 0-255 and using YPbPr 4-4-4 mode instead of RGB cause dead sub-pixels?
When I bought my Elite 111FD on craigslist I made sure it had no dead sub pixels.

Right now I have 1 dead green sub pixel and another green sub pixel that's nearly dead and yet comes back alive a few minutes later.

50 inch Panasonic Viera G20
46 inch Panasonic Viera G10
50 inch Pioneer Elite 111FD
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post #30852 of 30854 Old 03-01-2015, 01:18 AM
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No.
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post #30853 of 30854 Old 03-01-2015, 02:52 PM
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I guess I am SOL....??? any thoughts?

Beloved 151FD was working perfectly until I noticed this appear sometime today. TV was on for a couple hours and was fine when I turned it on.

IMO it appears to be a panel issue but Im no expert. Please tell me I'm wrong!

This is obviously occurring on the right lower corner with all inputs and seems to have a ghosting affect to the lest of the defect as you can see in picture 1. When TV is turned on from "off" a couple bright red pixels appear in this area of question then disappear.

Could this be a board issue? Should I start or would it be worth it looking for a parted out panel? or look for a new Samsung plasma now before they are non-existant?
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My life is set at reference level.

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post #30854 of 30854 Old Today, 04:16 PM
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Is $400 a fair price for a 5020fd with no stand ?
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