The Official Pioneer 9G Elite KURO Owner's Discussion Thread - Page 1062 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #31831 of 31851 Old 04-09-2017, 09:30 AM
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Don't reset a 60", they are not harder to recover, rather almost impossible
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post #31832 of 31851 Old 04-09-2017, 09:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Keno176 View Post
Hi, I’m hoping to get feedback as to what is going on with my PRO151FD: My PRO151FD is experiencing the 8 blinking lights issue with a twist. The twist is, the issue does NOT occur if the room temperature is below 63 degrees F. Meaning, if I lower the room temperature down in the room where the TV is, I am able to power on and off TV, as normal, with no blinking blue light issue. However, when the room temperature is warmer (~ 70 degrees F) and the set is turned on/off then, the issue with the blinking blue light is encountered.

I am aware that it has been previously determined that a bad IC Regulator is the root cause for this issue. But shouldn’t the issue be constant, without regard to the room temperature?

I am a newbie when it comes to electronics, and I’m baffled as to why temperature is a factor in this issue. I welcome your thoughts as to why this occurring and possible solutions (should I be looking at other electronic components, as well as the IC regulator) to resolve this issue.

Please let me know if you have any questions. Thanking you in advance for the help.
The IC Regulator is temp sensitive , my 151 would blink the 8 blue lights and I would have to let the panel cool down before it would power back up , now when the panel shuts down with 8 blinking lights , it will not power back on unless I freeze the IC regulator with a shot of compresed air from a can , if you hold the can upside down the air coming out is super cold , you can shoot the air in from the back of the panel . I leave the panel powered on all the time but with the picture off until I need to watch it , I am not wanting to replace the 151 for a year or two .there is a place that will replace the IC regulator for you if you send them the circuit board .

Mark
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post #31833 of 31851 Old 04-09-2017, 09:43 AM
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Originally Posted by lnarbi View Post
Don't reset a 60", they are not harder to recover, rather almost impossible
Thanks. Should I attempt to adjust the voltages for better blacks?
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post #31834 of 31851 Old 04-09-2017, 09:51 AM
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You could try to live with it, no tv is perfect.
I moved from latest plasmas to a samsung sp-a800b projector, blacks are nowhere near as good, but the overall picture result is better to the eye still.
Kuros are the best ootb even without being calibrated, VTs need much more work to perform the same. The kuro was the one with the same color accuracy as the samsung PJ (known to be one of the best), don't screw it
PS : keep brightness at 0 if you had it set to +1.
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post #31835 of 31851 Old 04-09-2017, 10:07 AM
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Originally Posted by lnarbi View Post
You could try to live with it, no tv is perfect.
I moved from latest plasmas to a samsung sp-a800b projector, blacks are nowhere near as good, but the overall picture result is better to the eye still.
Kuros are the best ootb even without being calibrated, VTs need much more work to perform the same. The kuro was the one with the same color accuracy as the samsung PJ (known to be one of the best), don't screw it
PS : keep brightness at 0 if you had it set to +1.
Alright. I'm just going to figure out the ISF mode unlock and calibrate it. Can I get controlcal going with just an Ethernet to a laptop or do I need the RS232 cable? I was able to check the hours with just an Ethernet.
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post #31836 of 31851 Old 04-09-2017, 10:09 AM
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Controlcal will be serial only
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post #31837 of 31851 Old 04-09-2017, 10:10 AM
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Controlcal will be serial only
Thanks
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post #31838 of 31851 Old 04-09-2017, 03:56 PM
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Originally Posted by qwknuf6 View Post
The IC Regulator is temp sensitive , my 151 would blink the 8 blue lights and I would have to let the panel cool down before it would power back up , now when the panel shuts down with 8 blinking lights , it will not power back on unless I freeze the IC regulator with a shot of compresed air from a can , if you hold the can upside down the air coming out is super cold , you can shoot the air in from the back of the panel . I leave the panel powered on all the time but with the picture off until I need to watch it , I am not wanting to replace the 151 for a year or two .there is a place that will replace the IC regulator for you if you send them the circuit board .

Mark
Thanks, Mark for compressed air tip. I tried it and it worked. I plan on doing the swap out of the IC Regulator myself; however, I thought that there was an additional component (possible a resistor) that needed to be looked at with regards to temperature affecting the occurrence of the problem.
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post #31839 of 31851 Old 04-11-2017, 12:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Test Ickles View Post
Just picked up a KRP-600M with 19400 hours on it. I've got it sitting next to my 65VT60 and the VT60 has better black levels. While I haven't calibrated the KRP yet, I can tell the blacks are glowing a bit. It still looks good but right now the VT60 is beating it in PQ. Should I just reset it? I've read the 60's are harder than the 50's.
This is why I've started recommending the 65 inch Panny's to people looking for a 60 inch or bigger plasma. The 60 inch Kuros don't age well with regards to black level and red tint and they are nearly impossible to tweak / reset.

Pioneer Kuro KRP-500M
Pioneer Kuro PRO-141FD
Pioneer Kuro PRO-111FD x 2
Pioneer Kuro PDP-5020 x 2
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post #31840 of 31851 Old 04-11-2017, 07:15 PM
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Originally Posted by makaveddie81 View Post
This is why I've started recommending the 65 inch Panny's to people looking for a 60 inch or bigger plasma. The 60 inch Kuros don't age well with regards to black level and red tint and they are nearly impossible to tweak / reset.
Bummer. Guess I should have read more on it. What happens when you lower voltages like on the 50's? Just doesn't give the same kind of results?
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post #31841 of 31851 Old 04-12-2017, 06:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by makaveddie81 View Post
This is why I've started recommending the 65 inch Panny's to people looking for a 60 inch or bigger plasma. The 60 inch Kuros don't age well with regards to black level and red tint and they are nearly impossible to tweak / reset.
I bought a used 151 with a little over 8000 hours on it has a slight bit of red tint I have a service remote try to adjust the red tent out what with really with no avail. So I'll just live with it it's not that bad the problem with the Panasonic the VT and ZT-Model people are still asking good chunk of change for them I looked on eBay and there's about five of them on there and not one was under $2500. If you're to spend that much money you much will go OLED
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post #31842 of 31851 Old 04-12-2017, 12:16 PM
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Originally Posted by makaveddie81 View Post
The 60 inch Kuros don't age well with regards to black level and red tint and they are nearly impossible to tweak / reset.
My 60 inch pro-151 has over 24,000 hours and no red tint with strong black level. I have done my own calibrations from day one. I have been careful to keep the room under 75F in the summer.
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post #31843 of 31851 Old 04-12-2017, 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Test Ickles View Post
Bummer. Guess I should have read more on it. What happens when you lower voltages like on the 50's? Just doesn't give the same kind of results?
You'll definitely hit a point where the black level doesn't get lower, that is if your screen doesn't become littered with magenta sparkles / lag along the way.

Pioneer Kuro KRP-500M
Pioneer Kuro PRO-141FD
Pioneer Kuro PRO-111FD x 2
Pioneer Kuro PDP-5020 x 2
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post #31844 of 31851 Old 04-12-2017, 12:30 PM
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Originally Posted by rcapprotti View Post
I bought a used 151 with a little over 8000 hours on it has a slight bit of red tint I have a service remote try to adjust the red tent out what with really with no avail. So I'll just live with it it's not that bad the problem with the Panasonic the VT and ZT-Model people are still asking good chunk of change for them I looked on eBay and there's about five of them on there and not one was under $2500. If you're to spend that much money you much will go OLED
Of course the price of the Panny should be reasonable. I wouldn't pay close to $2500 for one.

If the 60 inch Kuro can be had for $500 or less, then I would of course go with the Kuro and just deal with the tint or try to reset it, adjust voltages post reset and let the 1000 hour aging work its magic. Better bang for your buck.

But, if a prospective buyer doesn't want to deal with voltage adjustment or pulse meter reset, then the obvious choice is the 65 inch Panny if reasonably priced.
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Pioneer Kuro KRP-500M
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post #31845 of 31851 Old 04-12-2017, 12:31 PM
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My 60 inch pro-151 has over 24,000 hours and no red tint with strong black level. I have done my own calibrations from day one. I have been careful to keep the room under 75F in the summer.
There's always exceptions to the rule, but I've seen enough red tinted sets to deem unaffected sets as outliers.

Pioneer Kuro KRP-500M
Pioneer Kuro PRO-141FD
Pioneer Kuro PRO-111FD x 2
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post #31846 of 31851 Old 04-13-2017, 10:15 PM
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Got Controlcal setup and did an ISF night calibration. Holding it's own with the VT60 alot better now but the VT60 is still winning. I can see the little bit of red tint it has.
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post #31847 of 31851 Old 04-15-2017, 09:08 PM
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Success! The KRP-600M I bought for $550 with 19400 hrs on it is now looking just as good as my 65VT60. I unlocked the the ISF night mode with ControlCal and calibrated it with my i1 display pro, HCFR and AVS709. Then I used Kuro Control to get into the service menu and turn down the voltages. I ended up turning YKNOFS1,S3,S4 down 25 clicks each. I need to calibrate again but the Kuro is really looking good!
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post #31848 of 31851 Old 04-17-2017, 02:06 PM
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Success! The KRP-600M I bought for $550 with 19400 hrs on it is now looking just as good as my 65VT60. I unlocked the the ISF night mode with ControlCal and calibrated it with my i1 display pro, HCFR and AVS709. Then I used Kuro Control to get into the service menu and turn down the voltages. I ended up turning YKNOFS1,S3,S4 down 25 clicks each. I need to calibrate again but the Kuro is really looking good!
Wow, I'm surprised that it was able to handle a 25 tick reduction without artifacts. What is the manufacture date of the set?

Pioneer Kuro KRP-500M
Pioneer Kuro PRO-141FD
Pioneer Kuro PRO-111FD x 2
Pioneer Kuro PDP-5020 x 2
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post #31849 of 31851 Old 04-17-2017, 07:04 PM
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Wow, I'm surprised that it was able to handle a 25 tick reduction without artifacts. What is the manufacture date of the set?
March 2009. I went 20 and that looked good so I pushed it to 25. I calibrated the Kuro after and had my VT60 sitting on the floor next to it and the pictures were basically identical. I looked hard for any artifacts constantly going back and forth between the two sets and I couldn't see any negatives. My i1 display pro was measuring 0% at .012 before but now it can't even register anything. It says .0000 but that's because it can't measure that low.
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post #31850 of 31851 Old Today, 04:56 PM
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I came across a CL listing for a 141FD with a busted main board for $40, two hours away from me. Seller didn't respond to my question about how many hours are on it or what code it was displaying, but claims the panel's still good. Sounds like they used it as their main TV. Would it be worth the drive to grab this thing and try to fix it? I was aiming to get a 600M or 151FD before this, but it might be an interesting project to bring a 141 back to life if the repair is relatively straightforward.
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post #31851 of 31851 Old Today, 05:30 PM
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I came across a CL listing for a 141FD with a busted main board for $40, two hours away from me. Seller didn't respond to my question about how many hours are on it or what code it was displaying, but claims the panel's still good. Sounds like they used it as their main TV. Would it be worth the drive to grab this thing and try to fix it? I was aiming to get a 600M or 151FD before this, but it might be an interesting project to bring a 141 back to life if the repair is relatively straightforward.
Yep and here's the board. 60 bucks for the whole thing. Steal of the century.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pioneer-14-P...kAAOSw2xRYipTU
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