The Official Pioneer 9G Elite KURO Owner's Discussion Thread - Page 319 - AVS Forum
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Old 01-01-2009, 01:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by James W. Johnson View Post

Its pretty close to where it should be , a tad bright yes.
Problem is turning the baffle tube tends to aim the light so turning it
unevens the light.
I'll figure something out, when I get it right I'll shoot another pic
and post it up.


(oh, btw the wall is more a cream color, it is not even close to pure white, so that helps)

I dont have pics of this but what I did for a friend was this

I took an old LCD that was broken and inside of it there is a piece of white plastic that defuses the light - I took this and cut it into shape and used it to defuse the light, this worked great and it also dimed the light somewhat

or get something else to defuse the light

I want the retro skin back please
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Old 01-01-2009, 01:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by corpfan1 View Post

I don't have my speakers on - there is NO BUZZING.

This is pretty much a RANDOM occurrence much like the Twilight Zone.

Yeah, I don't know how to explain IF2's experience, but I really don't think the speakers have anything at all to do with the panel buzz. I've heard it with and without.
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Old 01-01-2009, 02:57 AM
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My 111FD arrived and I am breaking it in using the thumbdrive images. However, I only get (a) Standard and (b) User, modes in the PC input. According to D-Nice's settings, I have to use the Sports mode. Currently I am using the Standard mode.

Please let me know how I may use the slideshow with the flashdrive and use D-Nice's settings (sport mode etc) for the break-in period.
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Old 01-01-2009, 03:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rara View Post

My 111FD arrived and I am breaking it in using the thumbdrive images. However, I only get (a) Standard and (b) User, modes in the PC input. According to D-Nice's settings, I have to use the Sports mode. Currently I am using the Standard mode.

Please let me know how I may use the slideshow with the flashdrive and use D-Nice's settings (sport mode etc) for the break-in period.

No need to worry....Standard mode is okay. Is there a reason you have it on PC?
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Old 01-01-2009, 05:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by colgra01 View Post

Another question for my technically savvy bretheren:

Do any of you have a preference for a surge protector? I have a basic one that everything is plugged into now, but the other day in my local a/v store, I saw ones priced up to $85! Do any of you guys see any value in getting something like that? I believe it was a Philips. I am all for protecting by investment, but also not being stupid.
Thx boys.

I have Tripplite products, and have been pleased with them. I bought one for my sister-in-law recently for around $40, and it plugs directly into the wall (no cord), has 6 outlets, and will filter a coax line and a phone line also. They make cheaper ones than this, though those don't offer the same degree of protection. They make better/larger ones as well, but those may cost more than you want to spend.

I think having a good surge protector is important especially if you live in a major urban area. Power fluctuates and can be unstable and dirty (RFI or EMI); filtering the incoming power can prolong the life of the circuits in your equipment and, some say, may even provide a subtle improvement in performance. What you get depends on how elaborate your system is.
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Old 01-01-2009, 06:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glum View Post

i don't find it odd. i found in testing that pure cinema advance in every instance introduces judder and artifacts that did not exist when pure cinema was set to off. i found it odd and thought there was something wrong with my bd player or my 151...i recently found this article which validates all of my findings http://www.projectorcentral.com/judder_24p.htmi send 1080p60 and turn off pure cinema. this gives me the best possible image.

Thanks for the reference to the article, glum. It's a good (and comforting)one. I've got to say that I absolutely love my 111FD. It's like night (111FD) and day (LN46A750 LCD) compared to my older (and 'sold-er') LCD. But I was disappointed because I expected ALL the judder to completely disappear with the 111FD. Silly. So I think you're right. A lot of 'it' has to do with expectation rather than reality!

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Old 01-01-2009, 06:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by James W. Johnson View Post

That mask is more for aiming the light, am I wrong ?

I do not believe it is too bright at all,its a not too bright 6500K bulb.


I suppose I should pop in my 'digital video essentials' dvd and check
that out.

I think the mask is for adjusting the LEVEL of light, so it's correct for the level of lighting in the room. I had to go back and forth a couple of times, though, because when I would adjust the mask for correct ambient light without the diffuser on, it would change slightly with the diffuser.

So, in effect, with the diffuser in place you really can't aim the light per se. That's why I think the mask is for adjusting the light level.

Absolutely the only way to check the correct light level is to use a calibration disk or some other pattern that has an ambient light level screen.

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Old 01-01-2009, 07:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gerianne View Post

Thought you would like to see an alternate mounting. I had to mount my Ideal-Lume high on the display since I have a shelf right behind the TV and I needed to get rid of the shadow that I had when I mounted the light lower. I got a couple of sturdy springs and unwound them and fastened them using the screws in the top of the display. Seems to work well!

this is the same way I mounted my backlight but a little lower, about one third of the way down. I too used the screws on the back with some sturdy but pliable wiring to secure it.
Mike
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Old 01-01-2009, 08:39 AM
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I have 2 questions about the 111FD speakers:

Can somebody tell me the model #?

Could I mount these on a (non-elite) 5020?

Thanks!
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Old 01-01-2009, 08:47 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by James W. Johnson View Post

Could you post some links to a few good ones and does Circuit City
or Best Buy sell any good ones ? I have an older Monster
HTS2000 but I think I should get a better one based on what
you just said.

My Monster.....
http://www.dealtime.com/xPF-Monster-...HTS2000-109307

Try APC AV H10 or H15 they come in both Black and Silver. Amazon has H10 for 286 but B&H Photo in NYC has it for 199 + shipping, and B&H has H15 for $299 + shipping but it is too much for home theater. APC H10 and H15 provides surge protection, isolated banks for noise filtration and AUTOMATIC VOLTAGE REGULATION.

APC AV H10: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc...ter_Power.html

APC AV H15: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc...ter_Power.html

Both APCs I linked are in Black casing but as I mentioned they are also available in Silver... I got APC H10 because I need Automatic Voltage Regulation but if you live in new construction or newer house then you might not need voltage regulation, consider cheaper Tripp-Lite solutions, they provide decent surge protection and isolated banks


http://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-HT8...824721&sr=1-59 - for $125

Another Tripp-Lite for $106 from Amazon - http://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-HTP...0825127&sr=1-1

Another Tripp-Lite fro $80 from Amazon - http://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-HT1...0825127&sr=1-3
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Old 01-01-2009, 09:39 AM
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Originally Posted by jdmi View Post

The purecinema feature is a continuing source of confusion. Experts have said that the panel goes into 72hz mode automatically when a 1080p24 signal is detected. I can confirm this 100%. It's been said that sometimes the signal may not be detected if purecinema is OFF so it's recommended to leave it on advanced. I'm pretty sure it cannot detect a 3:2 cadence, convert it to 3:3, and switch to 72hz mode. I'd be happy if it did, but I've never seen it and haven't heard anyone explicitly state that this happens.

Hi JDMI:
Thanks for the reply. Here is the part of Tom Norton's review in Home Theater that had me wondering about what advanced does. It clearly is in opposition to what has been said in other reviews...



The Pro Adjust submenu offers a wide assortment of specialized controls. Some are useful, others, not so much. The PureCinema control automatically detects film-based sources and offers three options (plus Off):
• Standard (interlaced inputs only) converts the input, as necessary, to feed the panel 1080p at 60 frames per second (or hertz), complete with 3:2 pulldown for film-based sources.
• Smooth (for all sources except 1080p/60) reportedly produces “smoother and more vivid moving images.” As far as I could determine, though, it offered no real benefits.
• Advance (also for all sources except 1080p/60) converts film-based program material (as required) to 1080p at a display rate of 72 fps. First it eliminates 3:2 pulldown (if present) and then converts the 24-fps result to 72 fps by repeating (not interpolating) each frame three times.
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Old 01-01-2009, 10:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glum View Post

i don't find it odd. i found in testing that pure cinema advance in every instance introduces judder and artifacts that did not exist when pure cinema was set to off. i found it odd and thought there was something wrong with my bd player or my 151

the real problem is that we have come to expect (marketing hype?) that 24p and pure cinema advance will provide us with a judder-free experience. it won't.

i recently found this article which validates all of my findings http://www.projectorcentral.com/judder_24p.htm

i send 1080p60 and turn off pure cinema. this gives me the best possible image.

Interesting reference. I understand what he's saying, but to my eyes the picture is more solid and has more depth with 24p input as opposed to 60p. The difference isn't night and day, but I prefer 24p with my kuro.
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Old 01-01-2009, 10:22 AM
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Thanks for the quote. I think Mr. Norton is making an assumption. I've never noticed a difference with purecinema advanced vs. off whether I'm playing a BD or DVD. Maybe it has something to do with my BD player or my 151.
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Old 01-01-2009, 10:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by progprog View Post

It does display the resolution, but not the refresh rate. You have to switch to PC mode for that. It's kind of a PITA.

You are right. My entire system is rather new and I sometimes have brain lapses. I was thinking of my Receiver that displays this information. I just hit the status button on my Yamaha 3900 and it tells me both the resolution and the refresh rate of the source.
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Old 01-01-2009, 10:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragon Reborn View Post

I have 2 questions about the 111FD speakers:

Can somebody tell me the model #?

Could I mount these on a (non-elite) 5020?

Thanks!

Nevermind. I think I found out the model number, SMW2025.

But, has anybody ever tried mounting these on a 5020?
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Old 01-01-2009, 10:55 AM
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Happy new year!!

Got my 151 last night and hooked it up. I have a love/hate relationship with mine.

Couple of things. I do have the dreaded buzz. Mine is not the type you ahve to be 2-3 feet away from. I sit about 10 feet from the screen and I hear it easily, sounds like a refirgerator practically. Im not even exaggerating. I can get it to become inaudible ONLY if I put the power save mode on 2. BUt then the screen seems a little too dim. It is really annoying. I wish mine was only barely audible from the rear, then I could care less, but this is pretty annoying.

The PC input cannot handle the resolution from my computer and it looks like garbage. I know my LCD was in fact a huge computer monitor, but this resolution on the TV strethes everything- it is not clear at all. very fuzzy like an 80's monitor. ho hum.

Some side notes- It seems that unless you actually DISABLE the sensors, that even when not in optimum mode, the seem to be doing something to the picture. Have a look for yourself (i noticed this at night though) I turned it off. I also dont think i am a fan of color space 2, i think one looks alot better- Color space 2 looks washed outin comparison.

72hz mode. (advance) even though the manual states this is not available in 1080P, I swear the pic on bluray gets a little sharper with in on. I will leave it in advance mode....

Do I like the TV? for the most part I do. I understand that this tv needs to be broken in,
and that this is the videophile set to have, But dare I say that I wasnt truly head over heals when I turned this thing on.


The buzzing as I type this is pretty annoying. I know we all have different thrresholds for what is acceptable. And I really do not want to enter the new year with more AV psychotic issues lol, but this buzzing is a real bummer. I dont think ANYONE would come in and not notice. If you want to watch the TV, but with low/moderate sound, you notice it immediately, YOu need to have the whole HT going to not notice it.

I cant believe a product like this is sent out and engineers think that this is okay? within spec? World class TV with some major flaws. ARGH! Does the buzzing aleviate itself over time? Or will it get worse. I sure hope it is not the latter because that would just be horrendous.

I still like the TV, and the pic is still superior to my series 7, but it is definately "different"

Any help with this buzzing
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Old 01-01-2009, 11:03 AM
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^^ audiolover, I agree with you on that buzz issue and I don't think it will get better. When did you purchase your set? I would talk to the dealer and exchange it since this would annoy the hell out of me. I am one of the lucky ones that can only hear it from 3 feet in a quiet room.
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Old 01-01-2009, 11:28 AM
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Well, I bought my set from Roman. He has been an excellent guy to work with, but this seems to be the nature of the beast, and doing the whole exchange game and setup and tear down would be really bothersome, and It may not even fix thew problem :-( you win some and you lose some I guess. If I put the tv in mode 2, the noise eleviates, but damn the pic gets dim. I might just have to live with it. Roman feels that it might even get better with time.
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Old 01-01-2009, 12:08 PM
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Have you tried a power conditioner? They can often get rid of hums and buzzing.
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Old 01-01-2009, 12:14 PM
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Yes it is on a moster HTS 2500, I have even tried connecting it to another wall outlet. It really sounds like a refrigerator. I really find this messed up for the cost of this TV. I have pretty decent hearing, but I find it HARD to believe that even a person with poor hearing could not hear this. Power save 2 is not an option for me. The pic suffers too much. My set was built in august.
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Old 01-01-2009, 12:22 PM
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Happy new year fellas!

quick question:

when watching tv, do you guys ever notice a quick shift in picture , almost like an auto zoom in certain frames really quick??? is this from having it set to auto??
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Old 01-01-2009, 12:36 PM
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It sounds like you have a legitimately bad display. If you can get a replacement, I recommend doing so. I have a 141FD and its buzz is virtually inaudible unless I'm 18" from it, or closer.
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Old 01-01-2009, 12:50 PM
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PS3 via wireless internet fill the screen to 1080p....it looks real good. I have not tried to hook up a computer via hdmi, maybe it will be like the ps3.

The hum is worse sitting in the middle, 2 feet to 1 side and it lessens a lot. Mine was loud for 3 weeks, but I'd say it is 50% now. Also consider that if you have it in sport for breakin with thumbdrive it is way noisier than normal viewing. Meaning during breakin pictures it can be pretty loud.

I don't think a power conditioner can help for the noise. You tried without it and with it?

Once broke in...isf day is less buzz for me, but then again pure mode also got quieter. Mine was on the verge of a return for the first 3 weeks. The pixels after breakin are in the stable period of wear....It makes sense to me that when hew they are ultra bright and after the 200 hours they somehow just make less noise due to less brightness. (you have a month to return it...I'd give it a ton of "on time" during the next 3 weeks and see how it improves.)

You may like optimum with both sensors on...it is more lcd like to break in your new reference for what you like. When you hook up isf day with control cal after the breakin...you will really like the difference it makes. I'd call it 20% improvement, not in any 1 area, but a combined picture quality. Awsome depth.

The more I watch my set, the more I have liked it. So either my ideals are changing, or the set is getting better with age. AT least things are heading in the better direction.
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Old 01-01-2009, 12:50 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sk20 View Post

It sounds like you have a legitimately bad display.

Its hard to make that statement. But we will do our best to see what can be done and if something needs to be done as we always do
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Old 01-01-2009, 12:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by colgra01 View Post

Happy new year fellas!

quick question:

when watching tv, do you guys ever notice a quick shift in picture , almost like an auto zoom in certain frames really quick??? is this from having it set to auto??

You mostly will see this on commercials. It is because I believe the auto is set on wide zoom from the factory so yeah if you have it set in auto when switching channels or on some commercials you will see this.
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Old 01-01-2009, 01:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragon Reborn View Post

Nevermind. I think I found out the model number, SMW2025.

But, has anybody ever tried mounting these on a 5020?

Dragon, looking at the CAD drawings, the 5020 appears to have the same mounting holes as the 111. They both use 18Wx2 speakers and probably have identical audio circuitry, so I think it looks promising. Are you thinking about getting the side-mount speakers as an aesthetic preference?
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Old 01-01-2009, 01:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sk20 View Post

Have you tried a power conditioner? They can often get rid of hums and buzzing.

Not the panel buzz we're talking about here.
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Old 01-01-2009, 01:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by audiolover718 View Post

The buzzing as I type this is pretty annoying. I know we all have different thrresholds for what is acceptable. And I really do not want to enter the new year with more AV psychotic issues lol, but this buzzing is a real bummer. I dont think ANYONE would come in and not notice. If you want to watch the TV, but with low/moderate sound, you notice it immediately, YOu need to have the whole HT going to not notice it.

I cant believe a product like this is sent out and engineers think that this is okay? within spec? World class TV with some major flaws. ARGH! Does the buzzing aleviate itself over time? Or will it get worse. I sure hope it is not the latter because that would just be horrendous.

.......

Any help with this buzzing

Unfortunately, I don't think it gets better over time, and I know that there are some units that buzz louder than others. On the other hand, don't be too quick to dismiss Power Mode 2 as an option. If you play around with the settings (brightness, contrast, etc.), I think you can have excellent PQ in that mode. I've been using it for months on mine and we have no problem with buzz or PQ.
(And since it really does have the advantage of using a little less electricity, it also seems to lower the heat output of these panels, which can be "impressive," to say the least. )
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Old 01-01-2009, 01:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uni_panther View Post

You mostly will see this on commercials. It is because I believe the auto is set on wide zoom from the factory so yeah if you have it set in auto when switching channels or on some commercials you will see this.

cool, thx...that is what i figured and it is usually during commercials or channle changing....do you have any other recommended settings besides auto?
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Old 01-01-2009, 01:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gerianne View Post

I think the mask is for adjusting the LEVEL of light, so it's correct for the level of lighting in the room. I had to go back and forth a couple of times, though, because when I would adjust the mask for correct ambient light without the diffuser on, it would change slightly with the diffuser.

So, in effect, with the diffuser in place you really can't aim the light per se. That's why I think the mask is for adjusting the light level.

You're correct...the mask is for adjusting the light level. "Aiming" the light can be accomplished by angling the whole unit.
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