The Official Pioneer 9G Elite KURO Owner's Discussion Thread - Page 374 - AVS Forum
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post #11191 of 30718 Old 01-27-2009, 02:12 PM
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Originally Posted by progprog View Post

No problem. So what have you decided to do (if anything) about that loose bezel?


I spoke to the dealer and they offered to swap it out straight away, which is the kind of customer service you should expect. Very unlikely there are any issues, but certainly better to eliminate the doubt. Thanks.
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post #11192 of 30718 Old 01-27-2009, 02:13 PM
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Originally Posted by James W. Johnson View Post

there is no way in hell I would ever have mine recalibrated.

That's certainly your choice but why "no way in hell"? Don't worry "your not gonna pay a lot for this muffler". Re-Cals are usually much cheaper than the initial calibration.

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I am sure D-Nice is happy too

I hope your not implying D-Nice was just trying or "happy" to make a buck off of me becuase I can tell you right now, he could of charged ALOT more OR as much as other pro calibraters do, for the time and work he put into my re-cal. He's truly a rare breed in that department and is more concerned with giving you more than what you actually pay for.
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post #11193 of 30718 Old 01-27-2009, 02:25 PM
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I must be going crazy. I bought an Elite 1540 ( 7 G ) on March 15 2007. TV wowed me. Afew months ago I bought an Elite 110 for my bedroom ( 8G ) It looked so good I sold my 1540 for a big loss and as of today own an Elite 151. I hope I won't find the 10G's so compelling I gotta have 1 of those. Breaking in as of 10:00 AM today and so far my 8G tweaked Elite 110 looks better than this new one. I feel pretty sure after breakin and calibration the 151 will look better, but right now my 110 looks better.
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post #11194 of 30718 Old 01-27-2009, 02:31 PM
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Originally Posted by AKFlyfish View Post

I must be going crazy. I bought an Elite 1540 ( 7 G ) on March 15 2007. TV wowed me. Afew months ago I bought an Elite 110 for my bedroom ( 8G ) It looked so good I sold my 1540 for a big loss and as of today own an Elite 151. I hope I won't find the 10G's so compelling I gotta have 1 of those. Breaking in as of 10:00 AM today and so far my 8G tweaked Elite 110 looks better than this new one. I feel pretty sure after breakin and calibration the 151 will look better, but right now my 110 looks better.

If you're using those torch-mode break-in settings, pretty much anything will look better! I don't think break-in, per se, improves the PQ, but simply hours on the set "mellow" it a bit, and yes, it does improve somewhat over time. AV Mode and settings make a huge difference as well, as I'm sure you're aware from your previous Kuro experience.
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post #11195 of 30718 Old 01-27-2009, 02:34 PM
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Hey folks,

I have an 46" XBR8 that has a bad case of cloudiness when Game Mode is enabled. I was in the process of exchanging it for a new one when I noticed another store had the 50" Kuro Elite PRO-111FD on sale for only $150 more then I paid for my XBR8 - a heck of a deal that puts the Kuro Elite within consieration when before it was just too expensive. This has made me reconsider exchanging my defective XBR8 for a new one and simpkly returning it for the Pioneer. I have a couple questions though:

1) I would use the TV for gaming on my Xbox 360. It wouldn't be it's primary purpose, that would be for HDTV viewing, and movies (Blu-Ray,HD-DVD, DVD). But I do game, primarily rythym games, like Rock Band/Guitar Hero, but also Arcade games, FPS'es, etc.. Longest I've ever gone in one sitting was ~2.5 hours. Usually it's 1-1.5 hours at a time. Pioneer's manual says to be aware of image retention issues. Any idea how much of a concern that is? Should this set even be in consideration if gaming will be one of it's uses sine they tend to have items like maps or health meters that can be static on the screen for the duration of the gaming session.

2) My wife and I watch very little 4:3 content, but most Blu-Ray/HD-DVD movies have the black bars on the top and bottom of the screen. Would I need to zoom in to have it go full screen to allow for equal use of the phosphors or it a minor concern with the latest screens? The manual says to try and avoid large amounts of 4:3 viewing and I would assume that would apply to movie's with the letterboxing on the top and bottom too, right?

Thanks.
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post #11196 of 30718 Old 01-27-2009, 02:41 PM
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Generally speaking, you want to avoid the bars and static images for the first couple hundred hours or so. Then, it's just a matter of mixing up content and maybe running the Video Pattern once in awhile. Lots of people game on these, and most of us watch letterboxed content. IR just isn't the issue with plasmas that it (apparently) once was.
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post #11197 of 30718 Old 01-27-2009, 02:43 PM
 
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Just use common sense and not abuse and thats it
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post #11198 of 30718 Old 01-27-2009, 03:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Jack in the Box View Post

Hey folks,

I have an 46" XBR8 that has a bad case of cloudiness when Game Mode is enabled. I was in the process of exchanging it for a new one when I noticed another store had the 50" Kuro Elite PRO-111FD on sale for only $150 more then I paid for my XBR8 - a heck of a deal that puts the Kuro Elite within consieration when before it was just too expensive. This has made me reconsider exchanging my defective XBR8 for a new one and simpkly returning it for the Pioneer. I have a couple questions though:

1) I would use the TV for gaming on my Xbox 360. It wouldn't be it's primary purpose, that would be for HDTV viewing, and movies (Blu-Ray,HD-DVD, DVD). But I do game, primarily rythym games, like Rock Band/Guitar Hero, but also Arcade games, FPS'es, etc.. Longest I've ever gone in one sitting was ~2.5 hours. Usually it's 1-1.5 hours at a time. Pioneer's manual says to be aware of image retention issues. Any idea how much of a concern that is? Should this set even be in consideration if gaming will be one of it's uses sine they tend to have items like maps or health meters that can be static on the screen for the duration of the gaming session.

2) My wife and I watch very little 4:3 content, but most Blu-Ray/HD-DVD movies have the black bars on the top and bottom of the screen. Would I need to zoom in to have it go full screen to allow for equal use of the phosphors or it a minor concern with the latest screens? The manual says to try and avoid large amounts of 4:3 viewing and I would assume that would apply to movie's with the letterboxing on the top and bottom too, right?

Thanks.


I have a "broken in" 111FD and use the ISF Night or Day settings for all my viewing. I have a PS3 and often play for a few hours at a time. There have been no problems with image retention on the 111. Before the 111, I had a 6 year old 503CMX and it used to show a small amount of IR after playing for a while, but it always went away after watching TV or movies.
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post #11199 of 30718 Old 01-27-2009, 03:10 PM
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Originally Posted by progprog View Post

If you're using those torch-mode break-in settings, pretty much anything will look better! I don't think break-in, per se, improves the PQ, but simply hours on the set "mellow" it a bit, and yes, it does improve somewhat over time. AV Mode and settings make a huge difference as well, as I'm sure you're aware from your previous Kuro experience.


Can I tweak this set now? Is there a breakin setting I should use? Can I schedule ISF now or wait until breakin is over? Sorry for the barrage of questions but I have been away from the forum for awhile. My 110 was a display model so I did not have to breakin before calibrating. Thanks for you help!
Jim
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post #11200 of 30718 Old 01-27-2009, 03:22 PM
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Originally Posted by AKFlyfish View Post

Can I tweak this set now? Is there a breakin setting I should use? Can I schedule ISF now or wait until breakin is over? Sorry for the barrage of questions but I have been away from the forum for awhile. My 110 was a display model so I did not have to breakin before calibrating. Thanks for you help!
Jim

The whole break-in thing is kind of controversial, but I think the notion that it's a good idea to wait 100-200 hours to calibrate is pretty widely accepted. (My own calibrator recommended at least 100...)

You can absolutely watch and tweak the set now, all you want. There are "break-in settings" (torch-mode ) that are only supposed to be used with the solid break-in images. Some use them, some don't.

As I've pointed out before, I've broken in Kuros each way- using the break-in "procedure," just watching regular content, and employing the hybrid method of mixing them up. I can honestly say I didn't see a bit of difference in how the TVs responded. The PQ mellows and evens out gradually over the first 100-200 hours, no matter what those hours consist of.
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post #11201 of 30718 Old 01-27-2009, 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by sk20 View Post

We buy stuff that lasts and only upgrade when there is a clear improvement. We had our last flat panel for five years, and bought a 141 to replace it, which was sooner than usual, but that's because we always regarded the previous display as temporary until true 1080ps came out at a not-insane price, and with 10" more diagonal.

Our next display will be a 70" OLED, in a decade or so.

We have tube power amps from 15 years ago. If you buy quality, it lasts.

And in those ten years you won't be drooling at the mouth every time you read the posts about the newest Elite.I know I wouldn't be able to resist. How many Pioneer PRO-1110HD owners can come here and not whip out the plastic even though they forked over 15gs a mere 4 years ago.Geez, reality please, this ain't Fox News.And you can't compare this technology to your power amp. I still have POLKS I bought in 1986 which are better sounding than most speakers sold today.HDTVs is a totally different animal with major improvement coming with each new line.
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post #11202 of 30718 Old 01-27-2009, 03:32 PM
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Originally Posted by mf1111 View Post

And in those ten years you won't be drooling at the mouth every time you read the posts about the newest Elite.I know I wouldn't be able to resist. How many Pioneer PRO-1110HD owners can come here and not whip out the plastic even though they forked over 15gs a mere 4 years ago.Geez, reality please, this ain't Fox News.And you can't compare this technology to your power amp. I still have POLKS I bought in 1986 which are better sounding than most speakers sold today.HDTVs is a totally different animal with major improvement coming with each new line.

My PRO-1110HD still gets a lot of use because its at a different house than the kuros. In fact, it is my main TV (even though my PZ700U or Sony XBR3 or projector is better than it, I didn't feel like moving it. And it still looks gorgeous. I agree with you. You can't resist the kuro.

What is dead can never die. Long live my 151!
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post #11203 of 30718 Old 01-27-2009, 03:44 PM
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Originally Posted by progprog View Post

The whole break-in thing is kind of controversial, but I think the notion that it's a good idea to wait 100-200 hours to calibrate is pretty widely accepted. (My own calibrator recommended at least 100...)

You can absolutely watch and tweak the set now, all you want. There are "break-in settings" (torch-mode ) that are only supposed to be used with the solid break-in images. Some use them, some don't.

As I've pointed out before, I've broken in Kuros each way- using the break-in "procedure," just watching regular content, and employing the hybrid method of mixing them up. I can honestly say I didn't see a bit of difference in how the TVs responded. The PQ mellows and evens out gradually over the first 100-200 hours, no matter what those hours consist of.

Thanks a bunch for your quick response. Going to tweak away and after 100 hours or so ISF calibrate.
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post #11204 of 30718 Old 01-27-2009, 03:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AKFlyfish View Post

Can I tweak this set now? Is there a breakin setting I should use? Can I schedule ISF now or wait until breakin is over? Sorry for the barrage of questions but I have been away from the forum for awhile. My 110 was a display model so I did not have to breakin before calibrating. Thanks for you help!
Jim

Quote:
Originally Posted by AKFlyfish View Post

Thanks a bunch for your quick response. Going to tweak away and after 100 hours or so ISF calibrate.


Good decision, the answer really was very clear..

Break-in Report
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There is no question that these displays need breaking-in. Out of the box, the default settings rendered a grayscale that was too warm as well as green. During the 213-hour break-in process, the display became warmer and more green - not dramatically so, but enough to warrant putting in some hours before making an appointment for calibration. Plus, it's never a bad idea to wait a few weeks to ensure that you don't have a lemon anyway.


Quote:


As a side note, it appears that color space has become slightly more accurate over time despite making no adjustments to the Color Management system


Need to find a Professional Calibrator? Click Here to PM me with your Display & City

Calibrator List - Pioneer ISFccc Interface

Calibration Reports - Pioneer

 

ControlCAL™
Designed by Calibrators for Calibrators™

No need to fumble through the Display's Menu with its Remote Control™

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post #11205 of 30718 Old 01-27-2009, 04:45 PM
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Originally Posted by mf1111 View Post

And in those ten years you won't be drooling at the mouth every time you read the posts about the newest Elite.I know I wouldn't be able to resist..

I'm very patient!
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post #11206 of 30718 Old 01-27-2009, 04:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Jack in the Box View Post

2) My wife and I watch very little 4:3 content, but most Blu-Ray/HD-DVD movies have the black bars on the top and bottom of the screen. Would I need to zoom in to have it go full screen to allow for equal use of the phosphors or it a minor concern with the latest screens? The manual says to try and avoid large amounts of 4:3 viewing and I would assume that would apply to movie's with the letterboxing on the top and bottom too, right?.

My biggest worry about buying another plasma was retention of the letterbox and 4:3 bars, but the 141 (and I assume the 151) doesn't have that problem.
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post #11207 of 30718 Old 01-27-2009, 05:02 PM
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Originally Posted by sk20 View Post

My biggest worry about buying another plasma was retention of the letterbox and 4:3 bars, but the 141 (and I assume the 151) doesn't have that problem.

Mine too. I also worried about BI/IR problems when using the plasma as a PC display. I tried to always fill the entire screen on my 141 the first 100 hours (this is after the factory break-in time of 100 hours). I started allowing some amount black bars after that and then started allowing SD OAR (4:3) after 250 hours. I would run the screen wipe function occasionally after the non-full screen viewing during the first 250 hours but now I don't worry much about it. I'll still switch up my content so I don't watch more than a couple hours of SD OAR at a time.

I landed up using a dual monitor setup on my HTPC so my 23" WS LCD gets most of the PC work and the 141 mostly just sees full screen video from the PC. I haven't quite gotten the nerve to do much PC work on the 141 but this dual monitor setup works very well for that.

"Plasma TV ... so called because in order to afford one, you're going to have to sell your blood." -- Ed Helms, The Daily Show.
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post #11208 of 30718 Old 01-27-2009, 05:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by progprog View Post

If you're using those torch-mode break-in settings, pretty much anything will look better! I don't think break-in, per se, improves the PQ, but simply hours on the set "mellow" it a bit, and yes, it does improve somewhat over time. AV Mode and settings make a huge difference as well, as I'm sure you're aware from your previous Kuro experience.

I think most electronics benefit from some sort of break-in. With CD players the sound improves over time as the circuits, capacitors and such adjust. I noticed subtle improvements in my 111 as the hours piled up, most notably improvement in the blacks.
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post #11209 of 30718 Old 01-27-2009, 05:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sk20 View Post

My biggest worry about buying another plasma was retention of the letterbox and 4:3 bars, but the 141 (and I assume the 151) doesn't have that problem.

Nor my 6020 and I would assume the 5020 either..
I believe for the most part it is a small issue with some common sense used..
Sonny
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post #11210 of 30718 Old 01-27-2009, 05:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Jack in the Box View Post

Hey folks,

I have an 46" XBR8 that has a bad case of cloudiness when Game Mode is enabled. I was in the process of exchanging it for a new one when I noticed another store had the 50" Kuro Elite PRO-111FD on sale for only $150 more then I paid for my XBR8 - a heck of a deal that puts the Kuro Elite within consieration when before it was just too expensive. This has made me reconsider exchanging my defective XBR8 for a new one and simpkly returning it for the Pioneer. I have a couple questions though:

1) I would use the TV for gaming on my Xbox 360. It wouldn't be it's primary purpose, that would be for HDTV viewing, and movies (Blu-Ray,HD-DVD, DVD). But I do game, primarily rythym games, like Rock Band/Guitar Hero, but also Arcade games, FPS'es, etc.. Longest I've ever gone in one sitting was ~2.5 hours. Usually it's 1-1.5 hours at a time. Pioneer's manual says to be aware of image retention issues. Any idea how much of a concern that is? Should this set even be in consideration if gaming will be one of it's uses sine they tend to have items like maps or health meters that can be static on the screen for the duration of the gaming session.

2) My wife and I watch very little 4:3 content, but most Blu-Ray/HD-DVD movies have the black bars on the top and bottom of the screen. Would I need to zoom in to have it go full screen to allow for equal use of the phosphors or it a minor concern with the latest screens? The manual says to try and avoid large amounts of 4:3 viewing and I would assume that would apply to movie's with the letterboxing on the top and bottom too, right?

Thanks.

Starting on the second day after about 30 hours of breaking my tv in I started gaming and using it "normal" I never had one hint of IR on my set at all. I gamed for about 8 hours and some of the games had HUDs on them for a few hours at a time. At the end of the night I would put in the break in disc and check for any IR and there was nothing there. That was within the first 2 days of owning my 151. That was late November and I have never had any issue. As long as your orbiter is on I really think you have no need to worry. Sure it is probably smarter to go ahead and wait 150 hours before hand but it isn't like your tv will explode if you game on it before hand.

I now have weekends where I may game for a 4 or 5 hour session and still no issues at all. It is a very fine set that you can treat just like any other tv. It doesn't need to be handled with baby care. Put your mind at ease and enjoy it if you get one. Also be sure to really check around because I got my 151 from a local B&M for only a small amount more than the original MSRP of the 46 inch XBR8. It was MUCH cheaper than the 55 inch XBR8.
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post #11211 of 30718 Old 01-27-2009, 05:17 PM
 
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Originally Posted by prepress View Post

I think most electronics benefit from some sort of break-in. With CD players the sound improves over time as the circuits, capacitors and such adjust. I noticed subtle improvements in my 111 as the hours piled up, most notably improvement in the blacks.

Well the way I see it is that it cant hurt from what I have seen
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post #11212 of 30718 Old 01-27-2009, 06:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AKFlyfish View Post

I must be going crazy. I bought an Elite 1540 ( 7 G ) on March 15 2007. TV wowed me. Afew months ago I bought an Elite 110 for my bedroom ( 8G ) It looked so good I sold my 1540 for a big loss and as of today own an Elite 151. I hope I won't find the 10G's so compelling I gotta have 1 of those. Breaking in as of 10:00 AM today and so far my 8G tweaked Elite 110 looks better than this new one. I feel pretty sure after breakin and calibration the 151 will look better, but right now my 110 looks better.

151 really gets much much better after the 150 hours. After 100 hours you wil start to see it for what it is.-very very good.

joel
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post #11213 of 30718 Old 01-27-2009, 07:07 PM
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Originally Posted by rangoh View Post

Thank you Roman for the great price quote you gave me for the 151,I have been sitting on the fence for a while,however after reading these forums with the loose bezel,cracked glass,buzzing and dead pixels I think I will wait for the new phannys and pio's come out,hopefully their quality control will have improved,Roman if you were close to me I certainly would not think twice before buying from you,please continue to keep us updated on pioneers and panasonics plans on the new sets coming out

Obviously, none of us can guarantee that you will receive a perfect panel, and I think anyone ordering something this expensive online is going to have some natural fear of damage during shipping, etc., I think that you are reading far too much into these isolated incidents. While my heart goes out to the guy with the cracked panel issue, he has posted a lot of times, and many people have responded, precisely because it is so out of the ordinary.
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post #11214 of 30718 Old 01-27-2009, 10:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack in the Box View Post

Hey folks,

I have an 46" XBR8 that has a bad case of cloudiness when Game Mode is enabled. I was in the process of exchanging it for a new one when I noticed another store had the 50" Kuro Elite PRO-111FD on sale for only $150 more then I paid for my XBR8 - a heck of a deal that puts the Kuro Elite within consieration when before it was just too expensive. This has made me reconsider exchanging my defective XBR8 for a new one and simpkly returning it for the Pioneer. I have a couple questions though:

1) I would use the TV for gaming on my Xbox 360. It wouldn't be it's primary purpose, that would be for HDTV viewing, and movies (Blu-Ray,HD-DVD, DVD). But I do game, primarily rythym games, like Rock Band/Guitar Hero, but also Arcade games, FPS'es, etc.. Longest I've ever gone in one sitting was ~2.5 hours. Usually it's 1-1.5 hours at a time. Pioneer's manual says to be aware of image retention issues. Any idea how much of a concern that is? Should this set even be in consideration if gaming will be one of it's uses sine they tend to have items like maps or health meters that can be static on the screen for the duration of the gaming session.

2) My wife and I watch very little 4:3 content, but most Blu-Ray/HD-DVD movies have the black bars on the top and bottom of the screen. Would I need to zoom in to have it go full screen to allow for equal use of the phosphors or it a minor concern with the latest screens? The manual says to try and avoid large amounts of 4:3 viewing and I would assume that would apply to movie's with the letterboxing on the top and bottom too, right?

Thanks.

You have nothing to worry about with gaming on this set. I would not game on it within the first 150 hours though. After that, knock yourself out.

I can almost guarantee you that no one watches more letterboxed BD's than I do, and I mean no one. Most of my tv viewing IS bluray, as I just can't stand the junk they pass of as HD with cable. To give you an idea, I typically start watching movies (or have them playing in the background as I work)around 8:00pm, and I don't go to be til very late (not much of a sleeper), I would say around 2-3am, and pretty much all of that viewing, again, is...BLURAY!

I do run the video pattern every night before I go to bed though, or watch a full screen movie.
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Originally Posted by ncfoster View Post

Obviously, none of us can guarantee that you will receive a perfect panel, and I think anyone ordering something this expensive online is going to have some natural fear of damage during shipping, etc., I think that you are reading far too much into these isolated incidents. While my heart goes out to the guy with the cracked panel issue, he has posted a lot of times, and many people have responded, precisely because it is so out of the ordinary.

Yup things do happen but I know the real odds and they are good
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post #11216 of 30718 Old 01-28-2009, 01:28 AM
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Oh yeah, got my 151FD...just plugged it in and watched some BD. Wowser. It seems to be better than the store unit I was reviewing. SD sucks badly but I expected that. HD cable was not that great neither except for Nat Geographic HD.

The buzzing is there but I can't notice it when anything is playing through the speakers. There's a high pitch whine that never goes away but ,as the buzz, gets drowned out by audio.

Anyhoo, one thing that perplexes me is the green line on the right when using dot-by-dot for my HD cablebox (Motorola DCT3416). It's not there with BD. I tried searching but there was no definitive explanation nor solution. Anyone experience this?

Oh, the shiny bezel is a dust and cat hair magnet.

Cheers,
-H
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post #11217 of 30718 Old 01-28-2009, 03:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Hedge-Hog View Post

Oh yeah, got my 151FD...just plugged it in and watched some BD. Wowser. It seems to be better than the store unit I was reviewing. SD sucks badly but I expected that. HD cable was not that great neither except for Nat Geographic HD.

The buzzing is there but I can't notice it when anything is playing through the speakers. There's a high pitch whine that never goes away but ,as the buzz, gets drowned out by audio.

Anyhoo, one thing that perplexes me is the green line on the right when using dot-by-dot for my HD cablebox (Motorola DCT3416). It's not there with BD. I tried searching but there was no definitive explanation nor solution. Anyone experience this?

Oh, the shiny bezel is a dust and cat hair magnet.

Cheers,
-H

Congrats! Yes, it's a dust and cat hair magnet....a small price to pay.

The green line is a function of your cable signal. Many channels have this problem, more often an annoying couple of lines along the top. The only way to get rid of it is to use a screen size that adds a bit of overscan, like FULL.

The "high-pitched whine" doesn't sound normal, I'm afraid. You're saying it's always there, it's distinct from the panel buzz, and it's not coming from the speakers? I wouldn't be too quick to dismiss it because it's drowned out by audio.

The Dark Knight
....The Hulk...you'll never hear anything else with films like that. But try watching something like No Country for Old Men (which has virtually no music) or the first twenty minutes of There Will Be Blood (no music or dialog). Extraneous environmental noises, especially those coming from the TV itself, can seriously detract from what are supposed to be dead quiet parts of movies. And again, a high-pitched whine just doesn't sound typical or normal.
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post #11218 of 30718 Old 01-28-2009, 06:33 AM
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Finally got my 111FD up and running after breakin....wow, magnificent PQ!

got a couple of questions:

1) is there a way to access the picture "setup" menu without having to go to the home menu? The reason I ask is that the home menu puts it in PIP mode, and only after you select "Setup" does it go back to the movie!
In my older Elite 1130, when you press menu, the entire menu appears in transparent mode and it was much easier/nicer to navigate.

2) I watched a bluray at 1080p24, and I still saw some judder in PureCinema = ADVANCED. I tried it in OFF, and it was worse, but I'm wondering what the conclusion on this is. For some reason I thought the 72hz mode would eliminate almost all the judder. Any ideas?

3) anyone has the discrete codes for the 111FD to program a URC? I can't find them on the pioneer website. thanks.

thanks....will post pics soon
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post #11219 of 30718 Old 01-28-2009, 07:46 AM
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Originally Posted by ssabripo View Post

Finally got my 111FD up and running after breakin....wow, magnificent PQ!

got a couple of questions:


I watched a bluray at 1080p24, and I still saw some judder in PureCinema = ADVANCED. I tried it in OFF, and it was worse, but I'm wondering what the conclusion on this is. For some reason I thought the 72hz mode would eliminate almost all the judder. Any ideas?

I feel the same way. read this article to understand why.
http://www.projectorcentral.com/judder_24p.htm

If you're talkin, you ain't learnin.
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post #11220 of 30718 Old 01-28-2009, 08:38 AM
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Originally Posted by hifi59 View Post

I feel the same way. read this article to understand why.
http://www.projectorcentral.com/judder_24p.htm

great article! thank you very much..... and yes, unfortunately, I have to agree with the jist of it.
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