The Official Pioneer 9G Elite KURO Owner's Discussion Thread - Page 548 - AVS | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #16411 of 30898 Old 05-06-2009, 04:24 PM
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Thought I would post this here because it my mount question is going to be common to the KUROS.

I just received the Omnimount VFL (packaging is branded videobasics) wall mount for my 500M. However I am a bit worried now after seeing how much heat the back of the set puts off during the break in process. The mount holds the TV off the wall 3/4ths of an inch. I dont know if this is going to be enough for ventilation.

Is the TV any cooler during normal usage then it is during break in? Has anyone tried a mount that is this close to the wall? Has anyone tried this wall mount in particular? This is the one that comes free with a vanns purchase.
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post #16412 of 30898 Old 05-06-2009, 04:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by emmapeel159 View Post

Thought I would post this here because it my mount question is going to be common to the KUROS.

I just received the Omnimount VFL (packaging is branded videobasics) wall mount for my 500M. However I am a bit worried now after seeing how much heat the back of the set puts off during the break in process. The mount holds the TV off the wall 3/4ths of an inch. I dont know if this is going to be enough for ventilation.

Is the TV any cooler during normal usage then it is during break in? Has anyone tried a mount that is this close to the wall? Has anyone tried this wall mount in particular? This is the one that comes free with a vanns purchase.

Hmm, I'll be curious to hear if someone is using that mount. 3/4" seems like very little clearance for some of the cables.
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post #16413 of 30898 Old 05-06-2009, 04:30 PM
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Hello,

For those of you familiar with the 151, is the serial connection on the back panel of 151 male or female? I believe I read on here that I needed a DB9 F/F. Now if only I could find a USB adapter bundled with a DB9 F/F.

Thanks!

(I'm in the process of getting the cable and simply can't remember.)
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post #16414 of 30898 Old 05-06-2009, 04:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meloman View Post

Hello,

For those of you familiar with the 151, is the serial connection on the back panel of 151 male or female? I believe I read on here that I needed a DB9 F/F. Now if only I could find a USB adapter bundled with a DB9 F/F.

Thanks!

(I'm in the process of getting the cable and simply can't remember.)

The connector on the Kuro is male.
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post #16415 of 30898 Old 05-06-2009, 05:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hd_newbie View Post

Actually, that is a misconception for which I was also a victim. When I had my set professionally calibrated, Jeff Meier compared Reon (I have NR-906) to 111 and 111 was the hands-down winner.

I know it is counter-intuitive, but it is what it is. I stopped using 906 for upconversion after the calibration.

I'll defer to you & Jeff on this, since you guys actually did an A/B test. Thanks for sharing that. I know the -83 does a better job than the Pio. I can see that with my own eyes. I (wrongly, obviously) assumed the Reon would, too.

Good to know!!!

-steve
My HT Setup - updated 12/25/2012
"...and all the science, I don't understand. It's just my job, five days a week."
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post #16416 of 30898 Old 05-06-2009, 05:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stevec325 View Post

I'll defer to you & Jeff on this, since you guys actually did an A/B test. Thanks for sharing that. I know the -83 does a better job than the Pio. I can see that with my own eyes. I (wrongly, obviously) assumed the Reon would, too.

Good to know!!!

Actually, Steve, your 83 does it as well as anything I've put it up against! I think Oppo makes the best upscalers on the market.
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post #16417 of 30898 Old 05-06-2009, 05:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stevec325 View Post

I'll defer to you & Jeff on this, since you guys actually did an A/B test. Thanks for sharing that. I know the -83 does a better job than the Pio. I can see that with my own eyes. I (wrongly, obviously) assumed the Reon would, too.

Good to know!!!

the reon probably would perform better if oppo had implemented it instead of onkyo... judging from reading many posts about the quality (or lack thereof) of implementation onkyo did...

that's not a knock on the abt solution at all... i'm an edge user, and will (eventually, when it ships) be an 83 user as well...

- chris

 

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post #16418 of 30898 Old 05-06-2009, 05:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Boden View Post

I have the exact same setup. For me, I like to pass through from the 8300 and let the 111 do the work. I also found that 480p works better than 480i, so I deleted the 480i resolution in the 8300 setup.

i have the 8300 HDC.
it doesnt seem to have the pass through option.
am i missing something ?

Kuro has a great picture.
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post #16419 of 30898 Old 05-06-2009, 05:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by emmapeel159 View Post

Thought I would post this here because it my mount question is going to be common to the KUROS.

I just received the Omnimount VFL (packaging is branded videobasics) wall mount for my 500M. However I am a bit worried now after seeing how much heat the back of the set puts off during the break in process. The mount holds the TV off the wall 3/4ths of an inch. I dont know if this is going to be enough for ventilation.

Is the TV any cooler during normal usage then it is during break in? Has anyone tried a mount that is this close to the wall? Has anyone tried this wall mount in particular? This is the one that comes free with a vanns purchase.

Well to answer my own question a bit I just looked on Pioneers site at the wall mount they recommend for the 500m the KRP-WM02 and according to the specs its got a depth of 7/8ths of an inch.

So if the official mount is 7/8ths of an inch then 3/4ths of an inch should not really be a problem.
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post #16420 of 30898 Old 05-06-2009, 05:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by enf1945 View Post

i have the 8300 HDC.
it doesnt seem to have the pass through option.
am i missing something ?

Kuro has a great picture.

I haven't looked at it in a long time. It might be called HDMI Auto or something similar. It means the same thing as pass through.
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post #16421 of 30898 Old 05-06-2009, 07:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by enf1945 View Post

i have the 8300 HDC.
it doesnt seem to have the pass through option.
am i missing something ?

Kuro has a great picture.

The 8300 HDC Getting Started Guide is here.

Please follow the instructions in the Owners Manual to enter the HDTV Easy Setup Wizard. Then click on all of the various resolutions' radio buttons in the setup Wizard when it asks you what resolutions you wish to use. Then, follow the instructions on page 6 to select "Pass Through". This will cause the 8300 to output everything in it's native resolution.

Hope this helps!
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post #16422 of 30898 Old 05-06-2009, 07:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meloman View Post

Hello,

For those of you familiar with the 151, is the serial connection on the back panel of 151 male or female? I believe I read on here that I needed a DB9 F/F. Now if only I could find a USB adapter bundled with a DB9 F/F.

Thanks!

(I'm in the process of getting the cable and simply can't remember.)

Turbe sells a bundle like the one you are requesting on the ControlCal site here.
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post #16423 of 30898 Old 05-06-2009, 07:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hd_newbie View Post

Actually, that is a misconception for which I was also a victim. When I had my set professionally calibrated, Jeff Meier compared Reon (I have NR-906) to 111 and 111 was the hands-down winner.

I know it is counter-intuitive, but it is what it is. I stopped using 906 for upconversion after the calibration.

That's interesting--I never would have thought that. I guess it goes to show you gotta just compare whatever chips you have in your system for yourself.

So far, on every source I've checked, the Anchor Bay chip in the Yamaha RX-Z7 (the ABT2010) is as good as the 151--to my eyes at least.
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post #16424 of 30898 Old 05-06-2009, 09:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mvp2005fan View Post

The 8300 HDC Getting Started Guide is here.

Please follow the instructions in the Owners Manual to enter the HDTV Easy Setup Wizard. Then click on all of the various resolutions' radio buttons in the setup Wizard when it asks you what resolutions you wish to use. Then, follow the instructions on page 6 to select "Pass Through". This will cause the 8300 to output everything in it's native resolution.

Hope this helps!

tried pressing info and guide like u said.
nothing happens.
seems the cable company has disabled this feature.
i can't select "auto" in the 'output resolution' settings.
i have Mystro software TWC
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post #16425 of 30898 Old 05-06-2009, 10:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by enf1945 View Post

tried pressing info and guide like u said.
nothing happens.
seems the cable company has disabled this feature.
i can't select "auto" in the 'output resolution' settings.
i have Mystro software TWC

Didn't D-Nice just mention a couple days ago that some providers enable/disable these features? Looks like your does.
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post #16426 of 30898 Old 05-06-2009, 11:10 PM
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I just took delivery on a Pro-111fd (very nice display indeed) and made sure I have the latest firmware (the 904 upgrade from the pioneer website).

I have yet to make direct keypad channel and subchannel tuning of QAM cable channels work. My 111-fd will scan and find them OK, but entering the channel/subchannel number directly with the dot key (say 7.1) does nothing whether or not I push the channel entry key.

I have tried both the ACTUAL channel number on the cable and the PSIP channel numbers ... no response to either. I CAN tune analog channels OK by typing in the channel number, but I want to tune digital channels and in digital mode nothing seems to happen.

Strange, I just tried entry of the decimal point in analog mode... didn't work, then I switched to digital and the menu came up asking for the digital channel and subchannel. Slightly flakey firmware I guess... but does work for direct entry of channel (QAM carrier) and subchannel (PS number) now. No idea if this will continue or revert back to ignoring me...

In any case a very spectacular display, and probably much more so once I trot out my Eye One Pro, ancient Minolta CA-100+ and Calman and Controlical and tweak it a bit after it breaks in...

BTW the Pioneer website has docs on the RS-232 protocol used to control the set... seems somewhat similar to some I have met in broadcast gear. Appears one can do anything the remote control can via the RS-232 port.
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post #16427 of 30898 Old 05-06-2009, 11:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by emmapeel159 View Post

Thought I would post this here because it my mount question is going to be common to the KUROS.

I just received the Omnimount VFL (packaging is branded videobasics) wall mount for my 500M. However I am a bit worried now after seeing how much heat the back of the set puts off during the break in process. The mount holds the TV off the wall 3/4ths of an inch. I dont know if this is going to be enough for ventilation.
.

We have a 141FD with a super-low-profile mount from Pioneer (model KRP-WM01). It has 31/32" of clearance. We have never had a heat problem.

The 141s run at slightly lower wattage than the 151s, but not enough to matter in answering your question (I think).
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post #16428 of 30898 Old 05-07-2009, 12:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meloman View Post

Now if only I could find a USB adapter bundled with a DB9 F/F.

I have bundle

Need to find a Professional Calibrator? Click Here to PM me with your Display & City

Calibrator List - Pioneer ISFccc Interface

Calibration Reports - Pioneer

 

ControlCAL™
Designed by Calibrators for Calibrators™

No need to fumble through the Display's Menu with its Remote Control™

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post #16429 of 30898 Old 05-07-2009, 12:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by die View Post

BTW the Pioneer website has docs on the RS-232 protocol used to control the set... seems somewhat similar to some I have met in broadcast gear. Appears one can do anything the remote control can via the RS-232 port.

I believe anyone who uses serial control of their panel is familiar with the RS-232 protocol & documentation (since they kind of have to be ). The codeset is indeed very similar to the IR codeset, and can of course do everything the IR remote can, but it includes a few more discrete commands unique to that codeset.
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post #16430 of 30898 Old 05-07-2009, 12:54 AM
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Originally Posted by hd_newbie View Post

What would it matter? Your settings would not work on their environment anyway. It is likely posted D-Nice settings would be more accurate than somebody else's calibrated settings. Or not

It matters in a lot of ways. And yes, one of them is that a "copycat" calibration rarely works like people hope it will. They are hoping to get somethig that's worth $300-$500+ for free by begging/mooching of someone else who paid for a calibraion.
That's right, I called it a "copycat" calibration. Because in fact it's not really even a calbration, when all you are doing is copying settings from someone else profession calibration that they themselves did pay for. There are way too many variables in setups, rooms and equipment owned, for a "copycat" calbration, to even remotely mirror how the actual set that had the actual professional calbration done on it looks.
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post #16431 of 30898 Old 05-07-2009, 05:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Johnla View Post

It matters in a lot of ways. And yes, one of them is that a "copycat" calibration rarely works like people hope it will. They are hoping to get somethig that's worth $300-$500+ for free by begging/mooching of someone else who paid for a calibraion.
That's right, I called it a "copycat" calibration. Because in fact it's not really even a calbration, when all you are doing is copying settings from someone else profession calibration that they themselves did pay for. There are way too many variables in setups, rooms and equipment owned, for a "copycat" calbration, to even remotely mirror how the actual set that had the actual professional calbration done on it looks.

Do you consider D-Nice's settings to be "copycat" calibration settings? Since these settings are established against a calibrated reference panel that has been shown to establish 95% of Pro-calibration (according to D-nice the PQ is more than just hope), I don't really care what you call it...these settings with ControlCal result in an outstanding picture and significantly better than the out-of-the-box settings.

I don't recall begging or mooching for these settings as they are posted for all AVS members to view and use if they wish.

OPPO BDP-83 EAP (second group)
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post #16432 of 30898 Old 05-07-2009, 09:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stevec325 View Post

I'll defer to you & Jeff on this, since you guys actually did an A/B test. Thanks for sharing that. I know the -83 does a better job than the Pio. I can see that with my own eyes. I (wrongly, obviously) assumed the Reon would, too.

Good to know!!!

Well I don't blame you since I was making the same assumption until my calibration. To me it is counter-intuitive that Pioneer is better than Reon. I don't feel great about it either, especially considering Reon was a significant reason why I paid the premium for 906. I have small speakers and I didn't really need such a big receiver otherwise.

Another evidence that hype works!
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post #16433 of 30898 Old 05-07-2009, 09:50 AM
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Originally Posted by mnml View Post

I'm now headed for my third 111, after both the first two had multiple stuck pixels. I just want a proper one before they're all gone.

For what it's worth to those of you keeping track, both of mine were tagged March 2009.

update: the second one went back to normal but started buzzing. I only notice the buzzing from a couple inches away (while looking for pixels ) so I'm not going to bother risking it and won't be replacing this one...at least for now.
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post #16434 of 30898 Old 05-07-2009, 10:36 AM
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My computer's serial port is a female. So can I use a male to female cable to run ControlCAL to my Pioneer?

Everyone says you need a female to female cable so do I need a gender changer to make the female port on the computer a male?
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post #16435 of 30898 Old 05-07-2009, 10:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mnml View Post

update: the second one went back to normal but started buzzing. I only notice the buzzing from a couple inches away (while looking for pixels ) so I'm not going to bother risking it and won't be replacing this one...at least for now.

I assure you, if you can only hear it from a couple inches away, it's not a buzzer. You will never find a better panel; that one's virtually perfect!
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post #16436 of 30898 Old 05-07-2009, 11:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DJ88 View Post

My computer's serial port is a female. So can I use a male to female cable to run ControlCAL to my Pioneer?

Everyone says you need a female to female cable so do I need a gender changer to make the female port on the computer a male?

The cable description refers to the connectors on the cable itself. So you need one end to be female (to attach to the Kuro's male connector) and the other end to be male (to attach to your computer's female connector).

Therefore, you need either a M/F cable, or a gender-changer if your cable's M/M or F/F.
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post #16437 of 30898 Old 05-07-2009, 11:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by progprog View Post

The cable description refers to the connectors on the cable itself. So you need one end to be female (to attach to the Kuro's male connector) and the other end to be male (to attach to your computer's female connector).

Therefore, you need either a M/F cable, or a gender-changer if your cable's M/M or F/F.


Yeah, thats what I wanted to be sure of. If a cable with female on one end to to the TV and male on the other end to the computer would work because everyone says you need a cable with female on both ends.
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post #16438 of 30898 Old 05-07-2009, 11:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hd_newbie View Post

Well I don't blame you since I was making the same assumption until my calibration. To me it is counter-intuitive that Pioneer is better than Reon. I don't feel great about it either, especially considering Reon was a significant reason why I paid the premium for 906. I have small speakers and I didn't really need such a big receiver otherwise.

Another evidence that hype works!

Yep - and in this day and age, there are very few instances where you'd want your AVR to do anything other than passthrough.

-steve
My HT Setup - updated 12/25/2012
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post #16439 of 30898 Old 05-07-2009, 11:50 AM
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Thanks for the reply progprog

My digital connection is from the cable-box to the AVR. I guess I'll need to contact the cable company to see if other boxes will allow. Although, the cable box guide link you provided stated

"Some HDTV's do not contain circuitry to decode Dolby Digital formatted content. If you connect you DVR to an HDTV that cannot support Dolby Digital audio, the HDMI interface instructs the DVR to switch its audio outputs to 2-channel PCM audio (to be compatible with the HDTV). In this case, all digital audio outputs on the DVR are formatted as 2-channel PCM. As a result, you will not be able to receive Dolby Digital or DTS audio on your home theater system when connected to either the optical or coax (RCA) S/PDIF ports. You can avoid this by overriding the automatic configuration through the General Settings menu and switching the audio to Dolby Digital"

I believe I had STB through HDMI to Receiver to TV and had no problems except the receiver always had to be on, regardless if I was just wanted to watch TV. I will check out what you advised and see if that works. Thanks for your help!
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post #16440 of 30898 Old 05-07-2009, 12:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DJ88 View Post

My computer's serial port is a female. So can I use a male to female cable to run ControlCAL to my Pioneer?

Everyone says you need a female to female cable so do I need a gender changer to make the female port on the computer a male?

Are you sure it is a serial connection? Does have 9 pins? That would be pretty unusual. The standard is to have a male connector on PCs. If it is female then you can use a serial extension cable which is always male on one end and female on the the other. Another advantage is that extension cables are always straight thru which is what you need for your Kuro.

John S
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