The Official Pioneer 9G Elite KURO Owner's Discussion Thread - Page 607 - AVS Forum
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post #18181 of 30690 Old 06-10-2009, 10:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by heatwave3 View Post

You should have various display modes in your Control Panel (assuming this is a MS Operating system on your desktop). Try opening Control Panel>Display>Settings. You should be able to adjust your Display settings from here depending on the chipset in your Desktop.

You can also go into the Advanced button from the settings screen and also adjust the Monitor settings.

Let us know if any settings in Display are helpful.

Dude, are you HIGH? I can NOT get into Windows to do any control panel stuff. I do not get passed Windows XP screen, when it gets to Login page screen (and when resolution changes), the TV says "TV does not support this singal".

Pioneer Elite Kuro 111FD, Elite BDP-05FD, Elite 72TXV, B&W 805/XTC/M1.
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post #18182 of 30690 Old 06-10-2009, 10:38 PM
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I have a 151 and when it has no input and the screen is black, the black screen is VERY uneven. The pattern is consistent. I don't notice it at all if there is a picture playing but I'm sure if the baseline is uneven, then so is the picture. I don't want this to be something that either worsens or becomes more notceable in dark/certain scenes.

Is there anything I can do? Should I worry with this?

Thanks
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post #18183 of 30690 Old 06-10-2009, 10:47 PM
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Originally Posted by alexb76 View Post

Dude, are you HIGH? I can NOT get into Windows to do any control panel stuff. I do not get passed Windows XP screen, when it gets to Login page screen (and when resolution changes), the TV says "TV does not support this singal".

Don't you have a regular computer monitor you could use?
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post #18184 of 30690 Old 06-10-2009, 10:49 PM
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Originally Posted by ckelly33 View Post

I have a 151 and when it has no input and the screen is black, the black screen is VERY uneven. The pattern is consistent. I don't notice it at all if there is a picture playing but I'm sure if the baseline is uneven, then so is the picture. I don't want this to be something that either worsens or becomes more notceable in dark/certain scenes.

Is there anything I can do? Should I worry with this?

Thanks

Others who have had that blotchiness found that it diminished over time.
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post #18185 of 30690 Old 06-10-2009, 10:55 PM
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Originally Posted by progprog View Post

Others who have had that blotchiness found that it diminished over time.

Thanks.
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post #18186 of 30690 Old 06-11-2009, 03:05 AM
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I've heard that there are some pretty good deals avail for Kuros. Does anyone have any advice on where?
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post #18187 of 30690 Old 06-11-2009, 03:06 AM
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Sorry, I'm a newbie...

How long can I expect to see blotchiness?
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post #18188 of 30690 Old 06-11-2009, 04:16 AM
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Originally Posted by alexb76 View Post

I know it doesn't matter if laptop or PC for the Elite, however as I dont have another screen I cannot change default resolution setting to see what works or doesn't.

As soon as the PC starts up, start pressing the F8 function key. This should bring window's boot menu. In there, select "Safe mode". This will make Windows start in 640x480, and with most drivers disabled.

Once in there, You should be able to select a new "basic" resolution, let's say 1024x768. You then restart your PC as normal, and it should startup normally, but now in 1024x768. You can then proceed to try the higher resolutions. If a resolution does not work, just wait, and after the 15 seconds delay, it should go back to its previous resolution.

Dan.
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post #18189 of 30690 Old 06-11-2009, 04:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AIA_SMALZ_11 View Post

Hey guys,

Hopefully someone has ran into this problem before and know how to fix it. I have had my HTPC hooked for the longest time using a DVI-VGA cable going into my 50" 111 FD. Using the PC input everything is displayed prefect at 720p and filled the entire screen.

Just upgraded my graphics card to a ATI 2400 AGP 512MB. (i have an older computer) Using the same connection everything works fine. I purchased an DVI-HDMI Adapter and a 8ft HDMI cable. Using this cable going into HDMI inpute on my plasma I cannot get the image to fill the entire screen like it did before.

I am able to get a screen and adjust from all the different resolution options all the way up to 1920x1080. However i am unable to get it to fill the screen. Can anybody help me out with this? Or am i just going to have to stay with the DVI-VGA way at 720p. Thanks

SMALZ

I don't know the ATI 2400 and I have a 141, so I don't know your equipment that much, but since you have no other responses yet, here are a few things to check:

- Have you tried the "PC" video mode on the 111 FD?
- There should be advanced settings in ATI's control panel. Some of them can reduce the overscan protection. Ideally, the card should output the image with no overscan and you should set the 111 in PC mode or Dot by Dot mode.

FWIW, my (even) older PC does not support high resolutions on its DVI output, so I have it connected through VGA to the 141, and I'm quite happy with the picture, although I use a standalone blu-ray player for movie watching.

Dan.
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post #18190 of 30690 Old 06-11-2009, 04:35 AM
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Originally Posted by djoberg View Post

^^^^

Thanks guys for the quick responses! I actually DO plan on getting the software and activating the ISF modes someday, but I just found it hard to believe that the difference in modes would be that drastic.

I do believe in the testimony of many witnesses so I believe your united testimony that I would get more "pop" and "brightness" with the ISF modes. My dilemma right now though is: Do I want more brightness? I say this because my home theater room is almost pitch black (especially at night when I do 98% of my viewing), so I'm thinking of tbird8450's comment that he prefers Pure Mode when the lights are out.

My experience in a relatively dark room is that the difference between calibrated Pure and calibrated ISF Night is very minor. My set was calibrated by Eliab. The difference should be even less in a pitch black room so Pure might be good enough for your circumstances. I have to say that I am not as much of a fan of a lot of "pop" and brightness as are some others. I prefer a more film-like look. I find the calibrated ISF Day to be too bright to comfortably watch in my room and it makes everything look too much like a cartoon for my taste. Your tastes may be closer to mine.

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post #18191 of 30690 Old 06-11-2009, 05:09 AM
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Originally Posted by johnnyb05 View Post

what are you riding, iam game for a long trip

Tricked out 100th Anniversary Fatboy 106hp/111ft-lbs. Very fast and plenty comfortable for long tours.

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post #18192 of 30690 Old 06-11-2009, 05:11 AM
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Originally Posted by alexb76 View Post

Dude, are you HIGH? I can NOT get into Windows to do any control panel stuff. I do not get passed Windows XP screen, when it gets to Login page screen (and when resolution changes), the TV says "TV does not support this singal".

I figured you had some other type of computer monitor from which to access the control panel in your OS (other than the elite TV). Given your temperament while I was trying to help, I suggest you reach out to others.

OPPO BDP-83 EAP (second group)
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post #18193 of 30690 Old 06-11-2009, 07:56 AM
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Originally Posted by heatwave3 View Post

Tricked out 100th Anniversary Fatboy 106hp/111ft-lbs. Very fast and plenty comfortable for long tours.

very cool thats one sweet ride, if you want company let me know, i dont think i would have trouble keeping up with you. Full Ti exhaust, power commander, galfer rotors, sprocket change, good for 165hp hayabusa.
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post #18194 of 30690 Old 06-11-2009, 08:04 AM
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Originally Posted by johnnyb05 View Post

very cool thats one sweet ride, if you want company let me know, i dont think i would have trouble keeping up with you. Full Ti exhaust, power commander, galfer rotors, sprocket change, good for 165hp hayabusa.


Uhhh, I have to agree. I think the problem would be me keeping up with you Back to 9Gs....

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post #18195 of 30690 Old 06-11-2009, 08:20 AM
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i finally made throught with controlcal (whew) i did read many said its easy to use, yes if your computer savvy it is. i am not computer savvy so i had a hard time. i sat hear many hours staring at this laptop ( many times i look like curly pounding the top of my head) anyway its all good now lol. a question are there any differences between isf-day and isf-night. or are the just labels for different inputs? also with my march 2009 built 151 i had to do some weird stuff with that wonderful 9pt gamma controls. in isf-day mode with contrast set at 37, i get 44ftL using DVE on blu-ray. running greyscale at the low IRE windows i set gamma at -1 for 10% and 20%, then i had to go to -2 gamma for 30%-70%. then for 90% i did -2.-3 -4, i forgot what i did for 80% but its something like what i used for 90%. it took a long time to get good gamma curve and a good greyscale. iam still having small problem with my 10% greyscale for x and y, i cant get the DeltaE value lower then 8 or 9, i tried every possible combo with the CMS and never moving 1 or 2 clicks.
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post #18196 of 30690 Old 06-11-2009, 09:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JazzGuyy View Post

My experience in a relatively dark room is that the difference between calibrated Pure and calibrated ISF Night is very minor. My set was calibrated by Eliab. The difference should be even less in a pitch black room so Pure might be good enough for your circumstances. I have to say that I am not as much of a fan of a lot of "pop" and brightness as are some others. I prefer a more film-like look. I find the calibrated ISF Day to be too bright to comfortably watch in my room and it makes everything look too much like a cartoon for my taste. Your tastes may be closer to mine.

I'm sitting in my family room (home theater/office) right now and with the small shades drawn it is quite dark. At night it is almost pitch black. So perhaps I would have the same experience as you. I know that right now I am very satisfied with the "pop" and "brightness" for most programming, but with some material it does seem a bit dull.

I'll have to think on this while I'm gone on my trip. I may just end up having a pro calibration done and be done with it. I contacted Eliab and he doesn't tour in our "neck of the woods" anyone, so I wrote to his old partner (David Abrams) and he won't be coming through here for at least six months. There is a calibrator in Fargo, but he has only calibrated one Elite and thus I don't feel comfortable going with him. Decisions, decisions!

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post #18197 of 30690 Old 06-11-2009, 09:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by progprog View Post

Don't you have a regular computer monitor you could use?

Correct, that's the issue. I had a Sharp LCD I used as my monitor, after Kuro, the LCD is gone!

Pioneer Elite Kuro 111FD, Elite BDP-05FD, Elite 72TXV, B&W 805/XTC/M1.
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post #18198 of 30690 Old 06-11-2009, 09:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by heatwave3 View Post

I figured you had some other type of computer monitor from which to access the control panel in your OS (other than the elite TV). Given your temperament while I was trying to help, I suggest you reach out to others.

Sorry man, I am frustrated as I haven't been able to use my PC for a while and I thought I was clear. No extra monitor, will try to go into safe mode and see if I can set a new resolution.

Thanks

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post #18199 of 30690 Old 06-11-2009, 09:48 AM
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I had a calibration done on my 151 and I can attest to the fact that now it just looks better. I don't feel qualified to talk about gamma and crush and etc., etc., etc. All I can say is that the display looks more natural in color, more liquid in movement, more three-dimensional in view. Just better, period. Was it good before the calibration? Definitely. In fact, it was the best display I've ever seen. But it is, by my and my family's eyes, even better now.
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post #18200 of 30690 Old 06-11-2009, 10:00 AM
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Previous to the cal were you running ISF-Auto, Day/Night, Pure? I assume you were using D-Nice's settings.
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post #18201 of 30690 Old 06-11-2009, 10:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fluevog View Post

Sorry, I'm a newbie...

How long can I expect to see blotchiness?

I've had mine since around Valentine's Day and I see it still. I don't think it was there initially though. I remember seeing the blackness at first and realizing how hard it was to tell from 'OFF'. I have no idea beyond that....maybe someone else does?
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post #18202 of 30690 Old 06-11-2009, 10:04 AM
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Originally Posted by tvshopper View Post

I had a calibration done on my 151 and I can attest to the fact that now it just looks better. I don't feel qualified to talk about gamma and crush and etc., etc., etc. All I can say is that the display looks more natural in color, more liquid in movement, more three-dimensional in view. Just better, period. Was it good before the calibration? Definitely. In fact, it was the best display I've ever seen. But it is, by my and my family's eyes, even better now.

Which AV mode do you now find you like best? Are there different modes you prefer for different video signal sources? Did you have the ISF modes before your pro-calibration? Looking to learn more about what you like best about the picture after calibration vs what you liked before the calibration. Thx

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post #18203 of 30690 Old 06-11-2009, 11:02 AM
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Originally Posted by tvshopper View Post

I had a calibration done on my 151 and I can attest to the fact that now it just looks better. I don't feel qualified to talk about gamma and crush and etc., etc., etc. All I can say is that the display looks more natural in color, more liquid in movement, more three-dimensional in view. Just better, period. Was it good before the calibration? Definitely. In fact, it was the best display I've ever seen. But it is, by my and my family's eyes, even better now.

That's excellent! Thanks for the positive and to the point comment! I will eventually get mine pro-calibrated too! For now I'll get CC and tinker with that and get more familiar with my panel...

"Not Enough Hours In A Day"
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post #18204 of 30690 Old 06-11-2009, 12:15 PM
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Originally Posted by tonyptony View Post

Previous to the cal were you running ISF-Auto, Day/Night, Pure? I assume you were using D-Nice's settings.

Prior to the calibration I was primarly using Pure. Sometimes and for some content, I used Standard. No, I was not using DNice's settings. And, I broke my panel in by watching it. No slides or anything like that.
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post #18205 of 30690 Old 06-11-2009, 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by heatwave3 View Post

Which AV mode do you now find you like best? Are there different modes you prefer for different video signal sources? Did you have the ISF modes before your pro-calibration? Looking to learn more about what you like best about the picture after calibration vs what you liked before the calibration. Thx

Last night was the first night with the calibration. We primarly used isf Night. I don't see a huge difference with isf Day except the brightness but even that was not overwhelming. We did not watch any Blu Rays last night just DirecTV so I don't know if we'll use anything different for that source. Those two sources are through my receiver into the panel.

As for what I like more, I listed it. The panel just looks better, more rounded, more rich and liquid, more natural with the colors. We had Pure calibrated too and it too looks richer, more "on", if you will. It is hard to describe in terms other than what I am giving you here. It just looks better and I can't really quantify it. Make sense?
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post #18206 of 30690 Old 06-11-2009, 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by tvshopper View Post

Last night was the first night with the calibration. We primarly used isf Night. I don't see a huge difference with isf Day except the brightness but even that was not overwhelming. We did not watch any Blu Rays last night just DirecTV so I don't know if we'll use anything different for that source. Those two sources are through my receiver into the panel.

As for what I like more, I listed it. The panel just looks better, more rounded, more rich and liquid, more natural with the colors. We had Pure calibrated too and it too looks richer, more "on", if you will. It is hard to describe in terms other than what I am giving you here. It just looks better and I can't really quantify it. Make sense?


Yes, thanks ...that's a helpful description of the picture's improvement. Sounds like a great outcome in terms of improved picture quality.

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post #18207 of 30690 Old 06-11-2009, 12:39 PM
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Ugh. So Ive been running the color slides on my usb for the 150 hour break in period since sunday night. I had gone out of town for a little while and I called to ask a family member how the set was. They went and checked and from what they said I think the usb froze up. UGH! She said it wasnt cycling through the colors any more and the words USB Cruzer was on the screen. I'm not sure how long its been like this, probably for hours.. Its been just fine for 3 days or so. My question is, am i screwed or what? I wont be home until tonight and i've already asked her to turn the set off. When i get home should I continue going back through the slides until I get to 150 hours? At this point, I'm guessing there is about 90 hours on the set. Maybe up to 10 hours or more of that might be after it stopped, i just dont know. At least it wasnt like that for days, and at least the orbiter was on. Someone please tell me i didnt just screw myself haha. The thumb drive probly just over heated, blah!!! It did so well for several days too.
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post #18208 of 30690 Old 06-11-2009, 01:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Thompson25 View Post

Ugh. So Ive been running the color slides on my usb for the 150 hour break in period since sunday night. I had gone out of town for a little while and I called to ask a family member how the set was. They went and checked and from what they said I think the usb froze up. UGH! She said it wasnt cycling through the colors any more and the words USB Cruzer was on the screen. I'm not sure how long its been like this, probably for hours.. Its been just fine for 3 days or so. My question is, am i screwed or what? I wont be home until tonight and i've already asked her to turn the set off. When i get home should I continue going back through the slides until I get to 150 hours? At this point, I'm guessing there is about 90 hours on the set. Maybe up to 10 hours or more of that might be after it stopped, i just dont know. At least it wasnt like that for days, and at least the orbiter was on. Someone please tell me i didnt just screw myself haha. The thumb drive probly just over heated, blah!!! It did so well for several days too.

If you see any IR from the Cruzer logo, I'd recommend running the Video Pattern until that disappears. If you don't see IR, you could continue running the slides. Or......just watch the TV. Unless you're being a real stickler about following that procedure specifically to use D-Nice's exact settings, there's no need to run those slides for "x" number of hours, and those slides only. And as you've discovered, there are potential pitfalls.
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post #18209 of 30690 Old 06-11-2009, 01:40 PM
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Thanks man, I appreciate it. I'm sure its fine. I just freaked out since the tv is brand new and im not there. I wont make that mistake again
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post #18210 of 30690 Old 06-11-2009, 03:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thompson25 View Post

Ugh. So Ive been running the color slides on my usb for the 150 hour break in period since sunday night. I had gone out of town for a little while and I called to ask a family member how the set was. They went and checked and from what they said I think the usb froze up. UGH! She said it wasnt cycling through the colors any more and the words USB Cruzer was on the screen. I'm not sure how long its been like this, probably for hours.. Its been just fine for 3 days or so. My question is, am i screwed or what? .

I wouldn't worry about it. The Kuro's have a built in screen saver. Any static image that lasts for more than 3 minutes results in the display reducing the Average Brightness Level ( white level ) way down automatically to avoid burn-in.
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