The Official Pioneer 9G Elite KURO Owner's Discussion Thread - Page 893 - AVS Forum
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post #26761 of 30692 Old 11-25-2011, 10:01 PM
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Gene9P--thanks so much. I'm very thankful for the advice. While I have had it stored in a climate controlled storage unit, I will make certain I open the box and allow the 151 to sit there at least one, maybe two full days, before installing it and actually turning it on. Great advice. Is there any further adjustments or re-calibration required, or should it be just fine having been already broken in and calibrated before being boxed up and put away? Thanks again !!
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post #26762 of 30692 Old 11-25-2011, 10:27 PM
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Pro-111 FD over heating?

I have placed my pro-111fd in a cabinet that is 55" wide, 36" high, and 24" deep. Thus, clearance around the tv is 3.5" on the sides, 4.5" top, and 17" in the back. There is no cabinet door.

I have noticed twice so far that the TV has turned off by itself. I am wondering if the TV is overheating and it's protection circuitry is shutting it off. I would appreciate expert advice on how to determine if I need to add airflow/cooling around the TV and how to go about doing that.
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post #26763 of 30692 Old 11-26-2011, 12:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drewg350 View Post

Gene9P--thanks so much. I'm very thankful for the advice. While I have had it stored in a climate controlled storage unit, I will make certain I open the box and allow the 151 to sit there at least one, maybe two full days, before installing it and actually turning it on. Great advice. Is there any further adjustments or re-calibration required, or should it be just fine having been already broken in and calibrated before being boxed up and put away? Thanks again !!

Other than being sure there is no moisture before you go from full off to standby to full power, you should be good to go. The PQ should be the same as it was the day you boxed your display.
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post #26764 of 30692 Old 11-26-2011, 03:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlexA6404 View Post

Pro-111 FD over heating?

I have placed my pro-111fd in a cabinet that is 55" wide, 36" high, and 24" deep. Thus, clearance around the tv is 3.5" on the sides, 4.5" top, and 17" in the back. There is no cabinet door.

I have noticed twice so far that the TV has turned off by itself. I am wondering if the TV is overheating and it's protection circuitry is shutting it off. I would appreciate expert advice on how to determine if I need to add airflow/cooling around the TV and how to go about doing that.

I don't have my manual readily available at the moment but I believe you are supposed to have a lot more ventilation space, particularly above the set, than you have. Most flat panel TVs are not really meant to be enclosed.

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post #26765 of 30692 Old 11-26-2011, 06:11 AM
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AlexA6404, do you sometimes hear the TV's fan running?

You say you "noticed" twice that the tv turned off by itself. Was that while you were watching it, or was it left unattended?

There are a couple of features that can make the TV turn off without being given a direct command:
- 3 hours inactivity timer: If the TV does not receive a remote control command for three hours, it will turn off. It displays a warning at every minute in the last five minutes.
- Kuro Link (HDMI CEC): Turning off a connected component that has HDMI CEC (like an AVR) can make the TV turn off as well.

Dan.
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post #26766 of 30692 Old 11-26-2011, 07:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by htwaits View Post

Other than being sure there is no moisture before you go from full off to standby to full power, you should be good to go. The PQ should be the same as it was the day you boxed your display.

I believe so also...just don't do any factory resets
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post #26767 of 30692 Old 11-26-2011, 08:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by info_dan View Post

AlexA6404, do you sometimes hear the TV's fan running?

You say you "noticed" twice that the tv turned off by itself. Was that while you were watching it, or was it left unattended?

There are a couple of features that can make the TV turn off without being given a direct command:
- 3 hours inactivity timer: If the TV does not receive a remote control command for three hours, it will turn off. It displays a warning at every minute in the last five minutes.
- Kuro Link (HDMI CEC): Turning off a connected component that has HDMI CEC (like an AVR) can make the TV turn off as well.

Dan.

Thanks for the reply. The TV turned off while we were watching it. It may have been possible that there was no remote control command for 3 hours. I do not recall seeing warning messages. Also, connected components were not turned off at the time. I will double check HDMI settings, however.

Does anyone know if the Kuros (1111, specifically) have thermal protection shut down feature?

Also, if I want to measure temperature around the TV in the cabinet, what is the max safe operating temp and how do I measure it? Ie, do I connect a temp probe to the TV, a few inches above, etc ... ?
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post #26768 of 30692 Old 11-26-2011, 09:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlexA6404 View Post

Pro-111 FD over heating?

I have placed my pro-111fd in a cabinet that is 55" wide, 36" high, and 24" deep. Thus, clearance around the tv is 3.5" on the sides, 4.5" top, and 17" in the back. There is no cabinet door.

I have noticed twice so far that the TV has turned off by itself. I am wondering if the TV is overheating and it's protection circuitry is shutting it off. I would appreciate expert advice on how to determine if I need to add airflow/cooling around the TV and how to go about doing that.

There is a setting that turns the set off if it doesn't detect an input signal after so many minutes.

It is defeatable, though.

COMING SOONFinding the Ark of the Covenant by Brian Roberts, in the iBook Store on iTunes, a new investigation into the Hebrew’s Most Sacred Relic!
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post #26769 of 30692 Old 11-26-2011, 03:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlexA6404 View Post

Pro-111 FD over heating?

I have placed my pro-111fd in a cabinet that is 55" wide, 36" high, and 24" deep. Thus, clearance around the tv is 3.5" on the sides, 4.5" top, and 17" in the back. There is no cabinet door.

I have noticed twice so far that the TV has turned off by itself. I am wondering if the TV is overheating and it's protection circuitry is shutting it off. I would appreciate expert advice on how to determine if I need to add airflow/cooling around the TV and how to go about doing that.

According to the manual, you should have at least 19.68" above the set and at least 3.9870" behind (2.1.1, pg. 15).
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post #26770 of 30692 Old 11-26-2011, 11:12 PM
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I have an Elite Pro 151 and i just bought new bookshelf speakers that i am placing on the console with it that are blocking the IR port and interfering with my remote control. Is there any way, using the SR Control or IR jack on the back to feed this TV IR signals? I also just bought an elite vsx-52 receiver which has a Control In/Out on the back as well as IR out.

Any ideas?
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post #26771 of 30692 Old 11-27-2011, 02:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Expletive View Post

I have an Elite Pro 151 and i just bought new bookshelf speakers that i am placing on the console with it that are blocking the IR port and interfering with my remote control. Is there any way, using the SR Control or IR jack on the back to feed this TV IR signals? I also just bought an elite vsx-52 receiver which has a Control In/Out on the back as well as IR out.

Any ideas?

I have tried both and they both work quite well. Control can only be used with other Pioneer equipment. You will get mixed results with any IR repeater set up you try depending upon the repeater system and the source devices. They unfortunately all don't play together well. It will take some experimenting.
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post #26772 of 30692 Old 11-27-2011, 09:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Jano18 View Post

I have tried both and they both work quite well. Control can only be used with other Pioneer equipment. You will get mixed results with any IR repeater set up you try depending upon the repeater system and the source devices. They unfortunately all don't play together well. It will take some experimenting.

Seems the SR jack on the back of the elite plasma is an OUT jack, as pioneer is assuming that everyone would want to use the TVs IR sensor and not one from a receiver or BR player. Is it an out only jack or is it smart based on how its connected to the source component? HOw have you used this in the past?
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post #26773 of 30692 Old 11-27-2011, 10:00 AM
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not that you want to spend more money, but i have one of these and they work pretty good.

http://www.hot-link.com/pages/produc...tid=1&mrchid=2
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post #26774 of 30692 Old 11-27-2011, 10:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Expletive View Post


Seems the SR jack on the back of the elite plasma is an OUT jack, as pioneer is assuming that everyone would want to use the TVs IR sensor and not one from a receiver or BR player. Is it an out only jack or is it smart based on how its connected to the source component? HOw have you used this in the past?

Yes, I have used both. Both the SR and IR jacks on your Kuro are out only. If you keep it simple just use the IR out into an IR repeater system, then out of the repeater to your sources. There are many out there you can find from $40 to $200 & up, check Amazon. You can use the IR out of your Kuro into your AVR, then use the IR out to your CBL/SAT box. Then you can use the SR out to your BD only if it is a Pioneer. If you have more components or don't have a Pioneer BD, you will need a repeater system of some sort. Hope this helps.

Edited to correct connection method, first one was redundant and I have not tried it.
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post #26775 of 30692 Old 11-27-2011, 10:41 AM
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Originally Posted by 1forsnow View Post

not that you want to spend more money, but i have one of these and they work pretty good.

http://www.hot-link.com/pages/produc...tid=1&mrchid=2

I have used the Hot Link Pro XL and it worked well. You can't integrate the IR out on the Kuro or the IR in/out on the AVR with this system. You would need a system with 3.5mm jacks to integrate these features. You need to mount the IR receiver from the Hot link behind the plasma as it will interfere with the signal. I used the bottom speaker mounting hole on the back with the supplied clamp.
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post #26776 of 30692 Old 11-27-2011, 01:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Expletive View Post

I have an Elite Pro 151 ... Is there any way, using the SR Control or IR jack on the back to feed this TV IR signals?

No. As noted both jacks are output. The (completely reasonable) assumption is that while you might hide your AVR your won't hide your television while watching it. The traditional solution is to use an IR "blaster" or stick-on emitter driven by the repeater port on an AVR. The superior but less common solution is to use the serial port.
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post #26777 of 30692 Old 11-27-2011, 05:38 PM
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Originally Posted by PooperScooper View Post

If you only have the Kuro connected, then the native res is no longer 1680x1050. Your video card should have no problem sending 1920x1080 to the Kuro. If things look too small, then use a larger font size.

I was pleasantly surprised with the new laptop I got which has a screen res of 1366x768. But when I connected my Kuro via the HDMI output on the laptop it figured out the display was 1920x1080 and sent it.

larry

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Originally Posted by returnofdjango View Post

OK, so you have two options under the AMD catalyst options: you can either do two displays (laptop display and KURO display), or you can have single display--Your keyboard on laptops is your input and your output is the KURO only...i.e. bypass of the monitor on your Laptop.

Either way, there is an option to output two different pictures at TWO different resolutions (you will see the laptop as 1680x1050 and the KURO at 1920x1080)

You have to play with it there, but there is a setting there (you can always google it for more detailed step by step way). I woudn't even use the PC input, you are losing pixels that way. Just use one of the HDMI inputs.

I use my laptop all the time to play movies in bedroom---works like a charm with a Radeon 5850 laptop card. If you can't make it work, google it...all the information is out there...make sure you have the latest drivers for your AMD Radeon card (catalyst 11.1 now?, i don't remember).

Also, if the font is too small you can increase the fonts to be 125% normal or 150% normal under the options menu for windows (assuming you do use windows).

On windows 7 --right click on deskstop, click on personalize, look for where it says "display" on bottom left (on my computer it's on bottom on left side), and then you will see the options where it says medium 125% and large 150%..play with them to see which one you like.

Alternatively, you can access the same menu from

Control panel->Appearance and Personalization->Display.

Hope this helps.

And this works 100%...i have done it many of times.. Also, because of overscan, you might want to change picture to Dot-by-Dot once you have the laptop hooked up...that way there won't be any Overscan.

Thanks, PooperScooper, returnofdjango.

I played around with the Catalyst Control Center. And tried searching Google. But no matter what I do, if I go to Graphics-->Desktop & Displays, and I hover over the TV display, it still says "1680x1080 @ 60 Hz, Duplicate".

So I can't get the Catalyst Control Center to output a different resolution to my TV, 1920 x 1080.

(BTW, I have a desktop, not a laptop).

I did find a simple workaround in my desire to watch streaming games at this enhanced resolution, on my TV, and also be able to browse the web (and be able to easily read the content on the web). I increase the font in FireFox to either 20 pt. or 24 pt.

If someone can continue to help me output a different resolution to my TV, great. Otherwise, I'm sure watching games at 1680x1050 is still good. And it's an improvement over my previous DVI-to-HDMI setup with my old PC's video card.

Thanks again for your help.
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post #26778 of 30692 Old 11-27-2011, 05:54 PM
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Perhaps if you set it to a single monitor with the tv being the one. That way it would not be a duplicate.
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post #26779 of 30692 Old 11-27-2011, 09:14 PM
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I have been noticing an issue on my 2008 Kuro 151FD. some times I see a magenta coloring/blob/cloud on the top right corner that fades quickly. it is about 1ft long from right bezel to center and usually the width of the letterbox. It usually happens when I go from letterbox(black bars) to a full screen picture when I change channels but only in the top right corner. It doesn't happen all the time but more likely to happen if the letterbox screen is up longer, but still not every time and it does fade to normal picture fairly quickly(maybe 2-3 seconds. Could this be hdmi cable issue or tv issue? Anyone heard of this?

My life is set at reference level.
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post #26780 of 30692 Old 11-27-2011, 09:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GobbityGotz View Post

I have been noticing an issue on my 2008 Kuro 151FD. some times I see a magenta coloring/blob/cloud on the top right corner that fades quickly. it is about 1ft long from right bezel to center and usually the width of the letterbox. It usually happens when I go from letterbox(black bars) to a full screen picture when I change channels but only in the top right corner. It doesn't happen all the time but more likely to happen if the letterbox screen is up longer, but still not every time and it does fade to normal picture fairly quickly(maybe 2-3 seconds. Could this be hdmi cable issue or tv issue? Anyone heard of this?

Have you been running the video pattern in options regularly? Doing so helps with artifacts.
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post #26781 of 30692 Old 11-28-2011, 10:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bodosom View Post

No. As noted both jacks are output. The (completely reasonable) assumption is that while you might hide your AVR your won't hide your television while watching it. The traditional solution is to use an IR "blaster" or stick-on emitter driven by the repeater port on an AVR. The superior but less common solution is to use the serial port.

So is the IR OUT on the receiver compatible with a typical IR emitter like this one:

http://www.amazon.com/Xantech-283D-I...2498798&sr=1-1

Or is it meant strictly for device to device wired connections? I'm not entirely clear if that out jack would require some sort of IR repeater/amplifier module or those are only necessary when you have multiple devices that need controlling.

I only need a way to get IR to the blocked sensor on the TV, all my other components are in plain view and can be controlled with the harmony.
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post #26782 of 30692 Old 11-28-2011, 10:10 AM
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Originally Posted by jmschnur View Post

Perhaps if you set it to a single monitor with the tv being the one. That way it would not be a duplicate.

Yup, that works! So after I do that, then I go back into properties and I can select "1080p" as the resolution for the TV. Ok, I will play around with it the next time I watch a movie or streaming game, and see how noticeable the difference is whether I disable the monitor or not.

Thanks again.
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post #26783 of 30692 Old 11-28-2011, 11:21 AM
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I haven't been in this thread in a while. Too busy enjoying my Kuro Elites
A friend of mine a little while back told me Sharp was making Elite again. I thought he was full of it. He usually comes online with some lie that I never believe. Just went through the last pages of this thread and saw the link to the new so-called Elite. I don't know what to think. Then when looking at the actual badging I was even more confused. The thing actually looks like an Elite.

I started reading the link at hometheater.com and pretty much came to the same conclusion the author did. Not time to run and put my Kuro's on ebay any time soon. Something feels kinda "cheap" though with Sharp "renting" the Elite badge and allure. Something feels cheap about Pioneer selling it out also. But money is money I guess.

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post #26784 of 30692 Old 11-28-2011, 12:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Expletive View Post

So is the IR OUT on the receiver compatible with a typical IR emitter like this one

I don't know. For a typical port there are two variables with two states, hence four combinations.

1) Drive voltage.
2) Carrier.

Devices designed to drive an emitter typically provide voltage for the LED. Some outputs are modulated with a carrier and some inputs won't accept modulated signals.

The Voltage is fixed by using the right connector or amplifier (which also provides drive voltage). Demodulation is fixed with a demodulator.

Since you're driving an emitter if there's a problem it will probably be lack of drive voltage. It's easy to check. Plug one in and see if it blinks.
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post #26785 of 30692 Old 11-28-2011, 01:13 PM
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Originally Posted by totalownership View Post

I haven't been in this thread in a while. Too busy enjoying my Kuro Elites
A friend of mine a little while back told me Sharp was making Elite again. I thought he was full of it. He usually comes online with some lie that I never believe. Just went through the last pages of this thread and saw the link to the new so-called Elite. I don't know what to think. Then when looking at the actual badging I was even more confused. The thing actually looks like an Elite.

I started reading the link at hometheater.com and pretty much came to the same conclusion the author did. Not time to run and put my Kuro's on ebay any time soon. Something feels kinda "cheap" though with Sharp "renting" the Elite badge and allure. Something feels cheap about Pioneer selling it out also. But money is money I guess.

While I don't want to get too deep into the issue in this thread, the new sharp elites are great sets and well worth a look if you want to move up to 70". I did so (moving my 151 to my bedroom) and have been more than pleased with the new set.
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post #26786 of 30692 Old 11-28-2011, 01:22 PM
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On another note, I'll be posting my wall mount that I used for my 151 in the classifieds later this week. It's a peerless sa760pu with a the pioneer mounting kit. Great articulating arm that extends the set out from the wall by almost 28" for a more immersive experience (used to pull it out for movie viewing).

More info here: http://www.amazon.com/Peerless-SA760.../dp/B000VE4CMC

PM me for details if you are interested. Thanks.
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post #26787 of 30692 Old 11-28-2011, 01:25 PM
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Originally Posted by magillagorilla View Post

While I don't want to get too deep into the issue in this thread, the new sharp elites are great sets and well worth a look if you want to move up to 70". I did so (moving my 151 to my bedroom) and have been more than pleased with the new set.

That's not a bad idea. But I think moving sets around right now would be pushing it. I have an "old" Sony 32" LCD in the bedroom now, the 50" Kuro in the mancave and the 60" Kuro in the living room. While I can "get away with" putting a 70" in the living room I think the 60 in the man cave would be too much as would the 50 in the bedroom. I thought the 50 in the man cave was pushing it as it was but going 60 would have to be too much.

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post #26788 of 30692 Old 11-28-2011, 03:40 PM
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Originally Posted by magillagorilla View Post

While I don't want to get too deep into the issue in this thread, the new sharp elites are great sets and well worth a look if you want to move up to 70". I did so (moving my 151 to my bedroom) and have been more than pleased with the new set.

Let's just say I was a judge at the VE shootout...the ELITE is a great LCD tv...but not in the class of a KURO,nor did it best the plasmas by Samsung and Panasonic much to the dismay of a lot of people.I cannot recommend any 70 inch tv,but you might want to consider a simple projector like the Mitsubishi 3800 or the new 4000 models. 110 inches of hd for about 1,000 bucks with no off angle issues , over blinding glare, or even having to sit further back to see a clearer picture, projectors are great fun.
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post #26789 of 30692 Old 11-28-2011, 05:46 PM
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Originally Posted by dsskid View Post

Sharp Elite's Calibration Report.
Attachment 228692
Still not up to par with the Pioneer Kuros.

Oh i know. I was just making fun.

I don't understand the hype with the new elites. Its a good set yes but not worth the 6k and 8k asking price. As for comparing it to a kuro, the only thing i see thats a little better than the kuro is sharpness. Again, only a little bit. Even then i still like the celluloid look of the kuro. I love watching catalogue blurays titles like beetle juice and risky business on it.

Everything else i preferred my 151. Especially the blacks. The elites may measure lower than the regular 9G's but its still an LCD with only so many zones.

home theater addict
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post #26790 of 30692 Old 11-28-2011, 07:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gene9p View Post

Let's just say I was a judge at the VE shootout...the ELITE is a great LCD tv...but not in the class of a KURO

Having spent a week with these sets side by side, we will have to agree to disagree. Nothing wrong with that.
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