The Official Pioneer 9G Elite KURO Owner's Discussion Thread - Page 913 - AVS Forum
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post #27361 of 30525 Old 02-28-2012, 07:12 PM
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Originally Posted by bodosom View Post

It's not that hard to do a bit of research about these things.

OK, I get it. I'll stop bugging you guys.
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post #27362 of 30525 Old 02-28-2012, 07:19 PM
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Originally Posted by vega509 View Post


is the Harmony 300i the same remote?

The BB where I bought the 300 had both the 300 and 300i on the same rack. Darned if I could see a difference in the finish through the clear packaging. To be on the safe side I got the non-i version.

After I got the code for my 151, I copied it to my Harmony One and then programmed the 300 to use with my 2 channel audio rig to control my preamp and digital player.
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post #27363 of 30525 Old 02-28-2012, 07:25 PM
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Originally Posted by AudioVideoPhilia View Post


OK, I get it. I'll stop bugging you guys.

Aint buggin me dude. If they don't wanna answer they should just ignore ya
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post #27364 of 30525 Old 02-29-2012, 04:56 PM
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Originally Posted by AudioVideoPhilia View Post

Quick recap on 36bit colour. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

1) Deep Colour always causes cliping.

2) Regarding image accuracy 36bit colour is not desirable.

3) RGB 16-235 is not 36bits

4) Not seeing 36bit in the top-right corner of my set is a good thing.

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Originally Posted by bodosom View Post

3 is correct in the most common sense, the rest are wrong. It's not that hard to do a bit of research about these things.

So if I'm wrong on points 1, 2 and 4 then I conclude there's nothing inherently bad about Deep Colour.

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Originally Posted by D-Nice View Post

There are multiple ways your display will show 36bit. Deep Color is one way. 4:4:4 color via HDMI 1.3 is another. However, the best signal type to send your display is RGB 16-235 with Deep Color Off. Anything beyond that is not ideal.

This suggests that Deep Colour is overkill. My guess would be the Kuro's processing has to convert whatever signal it receives to 24bit RGB. Making it able to accept 36bit colour but not actualy display it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Nice View Post

Think upcoverting DVD players or frame interpolation. Basically making up stuff that never existed in the source.

This suggests DNice dismisses any form of upsampling of the source material. Wether or not the Kuros can process 36bit colour from the HDMI cable to the screen without cliping or converting it in any way.
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post #27365 of 30525 Old 02-29-2012, 05:18 PM
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Originally Posted by AudioVideoPhilia View Post


So if I'm wrong on points 1, 2 and 4 then I conclude there's nothing inherently bad about Deep Colour.

This suggests that Deep Colour is overkill. My guess would be the Kuro's processing has to convert whatever signal it receives to 24bit RGB. Making it able to accept 36bit colour but not actualy display it.

This suggests DNice dismisses any form of upsampling of the source material. Wether or not the Kuros can process 36bit colour from the HDMI cable to the screen without cliping or converting it in any way.

You are making this more complicated than it actually is. The best signal type to send any and all Kuros is RGB 16-235 and NO deep color. If you do not care about the absolute best signal to send your display, the sky is the limit and includes using Deep Color.
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post #27366 of 30525 Old 02-29-2012, 05:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Nice View Post

You are making this more complicated than it actually is. The best signal type to send any and all Kuros is RGB 16-235 and NO deep color. If you do not care about the absolute best signal to send your display, the sky is the limit and includes using Deep Color.

Been reading this post do I need to set rgb 16-235 on my bdp 05 and my 111 as well. my vsx-03 does not upscale video so shouldnt have to touch that?

Thanks d-nice

Ive got some stuff
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post #27367 of 30525 Old 02-29-2012, 05:49 PM
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Originally Posted by baron2 View Post


Been reading this post do I need to set rgb 16-235 on my bdp 05 and my 111 as well. my vsx-03 does not upscale video so shouldnt have to touch that?

Thanks d-nice

Only with the 05
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post #27368 of 30525 Old 02-29-2012, 05:53 PM
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Thanks for the info. On a side note sent an email to you about 3 weeks ago, are you coming to the Seattle are any time soon?

Ive got some stuff
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post #27369 of 30525 Old 02-29-2012, 05:55 PM
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Originally Posted by baron2 View Post

Thanks for the info. On a side note sent an email to you about 3 weeks ago, are you coming to the Seattle are any time soon?

Hmmm, never got that. Yep on the radar to be there in the next 45 days
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post #27370 of 30525 Old 02-29-2012, 06:01 PM
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sent to your audio.... email I had asked about pricing for calibration and thoughts on finding a 60 kuro
were should I email you then?

Thanks

Ive got some stuff
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post #27371 of 30525 Old 02-29-2012, 06:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by baron2 View Post

sent to your audio.... email I had asked about pricing for calibration and thoughts on finding a 60 kuro
were should I email you then?

Thanks

Check your PM.
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post #27372 of 30525 Old 02-29-2012, 08:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Nice View Post

You are making this more complicated than it actually is. The best signal type to send any and all Kuros is RGB 16-235 and NO deep color. If you do not care about the absolute best signal to send your display, the sky is the limit and includes using Deep Color.

Thanks for answering my posts. I value your opinion. But you might be missing my point. I'd like to understand why it should be this instead that. You say RGB 16-235 is best for Kuros. Fine. But is it because Kuros can't process 36bit colour properly or because to obtain 36bit colour from a Blu-Ray disc involves upsampling the source data and you consider this to be undesirable?
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post #27373 of 30525 Old 02-29-2012, 08:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AudioVideoPhilia View Post

I'd like to understand why it should be this instead that.

Because if you don't use RGB 16-235 you end up loosing chroma detail. Deep Color isn't going to magically give you the lost chorma information when using other signal types. If you any additional whys, you can purchase a disc that has chroma test patterns (like S&M) and see what happens for yourself.
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post #27374 of 30525 Old 03-01-2012, 06:46 AM
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My WDTV has settings for 1080p 50 or 60 hz and HDMI Deep color 8 or 12 bit.

What is best for a PRO-101?


bob
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post #27375 of 30525 Old 03-01-2012, 10:19 AM
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Originally Posted by D-Nice View Post

Hmmm, never got that. Yep on the radar to be there in the next 45 days

Please check your email/AVS PM - asked about availability during your Seattle tour...thanks!

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post #27376 of 30525 Old 03-01-2012, 10:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Nice View Post

Because if you don't use RGB 16-235 you end up loosing chroma detail. Deep Color isn't going to magically give you the lost chorma information when using other signal types. If you any additional whys, you can purchase a disc that has chroma test patterns (like S&M) and see what happens for yourself.

I usually leave mine on auto.

home theater addict
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post #27377 of 30525 Old 03-01-2012, 12:56 PM
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just loaded Controlcal and D-Nice's day/night ISF settings to my 111fd

very NICE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

will try to check hours later on

update:damn..I need to buy the add on also to check hours.........ugh!
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post #27378 of 30525 Old 03-02-2012, 01:44 PM
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dcpmark, how long should it take for the harmony 300 to sync? I pressed the sync now button but nothing is happening. The bar doesn't load.

home theater addict
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post #27379 of 30525 Old 03-02-2012, 03:37 PM
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dcpmark, how long should it take for the harmony 300 to sync? I pressed the sync now button but nothing is happening. The bar doesn't load.

Just a couple of minutes at most. PM sent.
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post #27380 of 30525 Old 03-02-2012, 05:59 PM
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I got it to work on another computer. But it wasn't working like before for awhile. Then i closed and re opened the browser, signed in and it no longer said "changes made" in the sync menu. Thats when it worked.

Is this normal? Did anyone make any changes?

home theater addict
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post #27381 of 30525 Old 03-02-2012, 06:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by saprano View Post

I got it to work on another computer. But it wasn't working like before for awhile. Then i closed and re opened the browser, signed in and it no longer said "changes made" in the sync menu. Thats when it worked.

Is this normal? Did anyone make any changes?

Happened that way or me.
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post #27382 of 30525 Old 03-02-2012, 06:27 PM
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Me, as well. But it works!

My favorite toy
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post #27383 of 30525 Old 03-03-2012, 12:27 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by saprano View Post

I got it to work on another computer. But it wasn't working like before for awhile. Then i closed and re opened the browser, signed in and it no longer said "changes made" in the sync menu. Thats when it worked.

Is this normal? Did anyone make any changes?

It's buggy and took me a few tries...in a way I wish they had kept the standalone software method in play (I don't remember any similar problems when using it years ago).
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post #27384 of 30525 Old 03-03-2012, 07:22 AM
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It's buggy and took me a few tries...in a way I wish they had kept the standalone software method in play (I don't remember any similar problems when using it years ago).

It took a second try for me too. Had to log out then back in, but the second time was a charm. Loaded in quickly. However never a problem programming it after that with use for my 2 channel audio rig. I find the standalone software that came with with my H1 for use in my A/V system more versatile.
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post #27385 of 30525 Old 03-03-2012, 12:54 PM
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6804 hours 48 minutes according ControlCal....a little over 3 years time

I guess I love watching this tv..even more so now with the Day/Night Isf settings
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post #27386 of 30525 Old 03-03-2012, 02:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Bob Fosse View Post

It took a second try for me too. Had to log out then back in, but the second time was a charm. Loaded in quickly. However never a problem programming it after that with use for my 2 channel audio rig. I find the standalone software that came with with my H1 for use in my A/V system more versatile.

Bob, I have an older Harmony unit than the 300 that uses yo stand alone software as well. How did you get the 300's command on to this software?

My favorite toy
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post #27387 of 30525 Old 03-03-2012, 02:46 PM
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Bob, I have an older Harmony unit than the 300 that uses yo stand alone software as well. How did you get the 300's command on to this software?

I'm not sure how you would do that as I don't use the stand alone software with the 300, but rather myharmony.com software with it. I use the older stand alone software with my Harmony One remote which I use to control my A/V system. After I got the "151 hours" command on the 300, I transferred it to my Harmony One and then used the newer myharmony.com software on the 300 to configure the commands which control my separate 2 channel audio system.
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post #27388 of 30525 Old 03-03-2012, 02:49 PM
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How do transfer the 300 command to Harmony One, put them nose to tail and start learn?

My favorite toy
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post #27389 of 30525 Old 03-03-2012, 02:51 PM
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Originally Posted by jmmesch View Post

How do transfer the 300 command to Harmony One, put them nose to tail and start learn?

The program on the net has-picture. It works well
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post #27390 of 30525 Old 03-03-2012, 03:08 PM
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Originally Posted by jmmesch View Post

How do transfer the 300 command to Harmony One, put them nose to tail and start learn?

On the stand alone software go to "customize buttons" and then "learn commands." The software will then instruct you to how to point your remotes head to tail with a pictorial. It is easy and works quite well. I have done it many times over the years.
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