** Official Pioneer 5020FD/6020FD Display Settings Thread** - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 472 Old 07-02-2008, 09:01 AM - Thread Starter
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Ok, I guess Since a decent amount of us have these units now. We can slowly try to find out which picture settings work the best. I will start by posting D-Nice's break in settings as well as his post break in settings:

BREAK IN

Picture:
AV Selection: Standard
Contrast: 50
Brightness: -2
Color: +15
Tint: 0
Sharpness: 0

Pure Cinema
Film Mode: Off
Text Optimization: Off

Screen Size: Full
Power Save Mode: Off
Orbiter: Mode 1

POST BREAK IN
Pioneer 5020FD/6020FD Reference Settings

Picture:
AV Selection: Movie
Contrast: 38
Brightness: -1
Color: -5
Tint: 0
Sharpness: -15

Pure Cinema

Film Mode: Advance
Text Optimization: Off

Power Save Mode: Off

Orbiter: Mode 1 (All screen size modes except Dot-by-Dot)
Mode 2 (Dot-by-Dot screen size mode ONLY)

I have used D-Nice's reference settings and I must say they are quite good. I might have tweaked the color up 1 or 2 notches to my liking. I was curious as to if anyone has played with the pure cinema modes to see how it affects the picture. I haven't had time yet myself to give it a shot to see differences. Also, I was wondering if anyone has been using other modes besides movie to see what works best for them. I also would love it if someone could post some good settings for regular cable viewing. I do not have HD Cable just regular analog so settings of that nature would help (looking for mostly sports settings)

Thanks in advance.
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post #2 of 472 Old 07-02-2008, 12:52 PM
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I started with D-Nice reference settings as well. I also bumped the color up a few notches (-2), just to give the picture a little more punch.

I sometimes use D-Nice's settings for GAME mode when watching sports and other HD broadcasts.
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post #3 of 472 Old 07-02-2008, 01:20 PM - Thread Starter
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For sure they are a great starting point. However I do not have any HD cable yet I hope more people find some really good settings and are willing to share them.
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post #4 of 472 Old 07-02-2008, 03:08 PM
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Will these settings work for the european models LX5090/LX6090 as well?
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post #5 of 472 Old 07-02-2008, 03:12 PM
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Can someone put the game settings on the first post. Also when watching with TV with Optimum, I have noticed you can change the pure cinema settings. Has anyone changed the Pure Cinema settings on Optimum to be similar to the Movie Pure Cinema settings?
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post #6 of 472 Old 07-02-2008, 06:34 PM - Thread Starter
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No I have not experimented with that. However, I also do not have any game settings that I have seen. I still use movie mode for my games. even though i have only played about 5 mintues of games since I got it. Still somewhat breaking it in. but if someone has game settings, post them, then I will add them to my first post. Thanks
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post #7 of 472 Old 07-02-2008, 06:55 PM
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You might wish to note that the Break In settings are to be used with the break in DVD, unless I am mistaken.
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post #8 of 472 Old 07-02-2008, 07:49 PM
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I would be interested in any gaming settings for the 360 or PS3...

I will be posting what I am using based on my preferences when my panel comes in next Wed.
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post #9 of 472 Old 07-02-2008, 08:34 PM
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This thread is definitely useful for these sets. There's actually quite a bit of "tweaking" possible for a set with reduced adjustments.

I'll take the liberty to add the other Non-Movie settings which D-Nice has posted for other 6020 A/V modes as his own reccomendations for starters. It should not deter others from adding their own customized settings however.

Underlying Settings for each of A/V Modes:

*See Here For Color Tempatures


A/V Mode ---- DRE --- Black Level --- ACL --- Enhancer --- Gamma --- CTI
Dynamic------ High ------- On ------- On ------- 2 ---------- 2 ------ On
Performance-- Mid -------- On ------- On ------- 2 ---------- 2 ------ On
Movie-------- Off -------- On ------- Off ------- 2 ---------- 1 ------ On
Sports------- Mid -------- On ------- On ------- 2 ---------- 2 ------ On
Game-------- Off -------- Off ------- Off ------- 2 ---------- 2 ------ On
Standard----- Mid ------- On ------- On ------- 2 ---------- 2 ------ On

The NR features are on for every A/V mode. Optimum mode changes these settings depending on what the light/color sensor detects.

Also, there is no way in the SM to adjust these features.

Power Save Mode: Off

Standard mode settings

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...postcount=6311

Picture:
AV Selection: Standard
Contrast: 31
Brightness: +3
Color: -3 to -7 (you pick)
Tint: R4
Sharpness: -15

Pure Cinema

Film Mode: Advance
Text Optimization: Off



Power Save Mode: Off

************************************************************ *************
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...postcount=5496

Game mode has an 8K+ grayscale. Here are some "ok" settings with that mode:

Picture:
AV Selection: Game
Contrast: 30
Brightness: 0
Color: -4
Tint: R4
Sharpness: -15

Pure Cinema

Film Mode: Advance
Text Optimization: Off



Power Save Mode: Off

************************************************************ *************
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...a#post14144788

Picture:
AV Selection: Performance
Contrast: 30
Brightness: +4
Color: -4
Tint: R3
Sharpness: -15

Pure Cinema

Film Mode: Advance
Text Optimization: Off



Power Save Mode: Off

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post #10 of 472 Old 07-02-2008, 10:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stradaONE8 View Post

I would be interested in any gaming settings for the 360 or PS3...

I will be posting what I am using based on my preferences when my panel comes in next Wed.

Movie mode is solid performer and likely most "accurate" for games as well as just about any other material, however depending on the types of game I'd suggest giving the other A/V modes a good look. They can provide some very nice vibrant visuals on certain materials, depending of course on your taste.

In addition to Movie mode I'd give the Optimum, Performance and Game modes a shot for example on various video games for vivid punch and brighter looks vs. Movie mode. You may even find a use for "Sport" or *gasp* "Dynamic" (then again maybe not). Games can vary a great deal in style and color usage so really have to consider the type of game you're playing. Not every game is even striving for a "realistic" look for instance.

For PS3 and 360 the video settings on the console are also critical to what PQ you get from the XX20

I use:

If Kuro is set for Video levels then 360 Reference Level set to STANDARD and PS3 set to "LIMITED" for RGB
-OR-
If Kuro is set to PC levels (because you suspect PC video levels from a game for instance) then 360 Reference Level set to EXPANDED and PS3 set to "FULL" for RGB

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post #11 of 472 Old 07-03-2008, 05:27 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks Dahlsim, I also just learned about the Limited setting on PS3 the other day as well. So Far, I have found that I like Standard mode the best for regular non HD cable viewing. Even though D-Nice states it is one of the worst video modes this tv has.
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post #12 of 472 Old 07-03-2008, 08:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The_Hun View Post

Thanks Dahlsim, I also just learned about the Limited setting on PS3 the other day as well.

Yes, the key issue with those settings is to understand it's an attempt to accomodate both (older) PC monitor style RGB color ranges and the newer Television "Video" ranges. The fact they use names like "limited" and "black-levels" sort of obscures the point of the settings IMHO.

Quote:


So Far, I have found that I like Standard mode the best for regular non HD cable viewing. Even though D-Nice states it is one of the worst video modes this tv has.

Nice's settings clearly have a solid technical basis, making them great reference points, but at the end of the day you have to use "your" eyes to watch the set, not D-nice's.

I also note though that not only based on the type of material but also on a disk by disk basis, channel by channel basis, even a show by show it can be worthwhile to check out other settings. The 1st few SD disks I used Sport A/V mode on had me thinking it was going to be utterly useless but then I stumbled on an SD disk where it worked pretty well.

Even on HD material you have to consider the type and style of material. For most film based movies I find movie mode simply unbeatable for blu-ray for instance but on the Dave Matthews concert BD I watched the other day I found that a few of brighter, punchier but less color "accurate" modes provided a nice looking picture.

Of course many will prefer to find that "perfect" setting and use it always on everything. Ironically the discrete Kuro A/V modes is said to be for "tweakers":

Quote:


To ensure that the TV is always at its best in varying lighting conditions, Pioneer has also included another technological twist: a self-adjusting lighting option it calls Optimum Mode. Rather than requiring viewers to play with settings and adjust their TVs for different viewing scenarios, the new Kuros will use a built-in light sensor to automatically optimize settings on the fly. Since Pioneer caters to enthusiasts who love to tweak and be in control, it has also left its old, manually adjustable settings intact: standard, movie, sports, performance and game.

Pioneers also states that for the XX20 series, the idea behind the A/V modes was dependent on matching the video (and audio) settings to various types of source material, as also implied by the mode names.

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post #13 of 472 Old 07-03-2008, 08:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dahlsim View Post

Nice's settings clearly have a solid technical basis, making them great reference points, but at the end of the day you have to use "your" eyes to watch the set, not D-nice's.

So very much true
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post #14 of 472 Old 07-03-2008, 08:21 AM - Thread Starter
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I totally agree. However, I would like to set to be admired by all when I have guests but so far I am MORE then impressed with this unit. Still working on break in though. Quick question, is there anything specific I am going to notice once the break in is done? I mean this TV gives me literally 0 Image Retention at all. So I am wondering what will be improved. It will be hard to believe anything will..
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post #15 of 472 Old 07-03-2008, 07:48 PM - Thread Starter
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AWESOME NEWS! D-Nice has gained access to the Service Mode of the 6020/5020! Now if he can post here what we will need to do that as well as the good settings he finds that will be great!
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post #16 of 472 Old 07-04-2008, 12:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stradaONE8 View Post

I would be interested in any gaming settings for the 360 or PS3...

I will be posting what I am using based on my preferences when my panel comes in next Wed.

Pretty easy to get games looking great and with different looks on this panel.

Just check out settings posted above and try a few of the brighter A/V modes (Performance, Sport, Standard) out on some games for different looks. Game and Optimal modes are not particularly bright but can be good between the bright modes and Movie Mode.

Most settings appear to be handled properly using the "Auto" detection modes for both PS3 and 360. Resolution for instance is a no brainer and both consoles have an option to detect the highest resolution in the video settings which is 1080p.

360 has less settings but works great with minimal tweaking required. PS3 has a lot of settings broken down by categories but most are self explanatory such how you want scaling of standard dvd's or of legacy Playstation games to be handled etc. Most Video settings should be safely left at "Auto" or it's default. Let the consoles detect if not sure.

After all of the software updates on both consoles they work very well now for audio and video.

PS3 HDMI RGB color levels (called "Reference Levels" setting on 360) are a bit confusing. Fortunately the RGB settings the Kuro xx20 comes set to "Auto" for the HDMI input color.

You could go in and set the Panel to match the color range for either setting if you wanted to. It has "Video" and "PC" based video settings available to the user on HDMI input and even specific color ranges such as 16-235 which is "Limited" and 0-255 for "Full" so you could really map the Kuro to either color setting.

Unless hooking up a PC (via HDMI) in vast majority of cases I'd expect "Video" levels from the source so PS3 "Limited" should map directly for Blu-ray, Games, DVD etc. In the case of 360 it's Reference Level "Standard" for games, dvd, hd dvd etc.

If you are connecting a PC for gaming or other purposes then you go with with "PC" setting for video on the Kuro. For color Auto setting should still be best to detect the RGB range on the input although you could manually force the setting to a known color range based on your source and video card settings.

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post #17 of 472 Old 07-04-2008, 07:03 AM - Thread Starter
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Hopefully soon, D-Nice will start posting his full instructions on how to get in the SM of the 5020/6020 and share his calibration settings. And If he wants to PM me I have no problem putting it up in the #1 post of this thread.
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post #18 of 472 Old 07-09-2008, 12:32 PM
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What is the prevailing theory regarding breaking in a PDP-6020? It seems there are many conflicting views regarding the necessity of the break in period. Pioneer did not reference a break in period in their instruction manual for the PDP-6020 and some posters claim that Pioneer has deemed the break in period unecessary. I am guessing that this is a "better safe than sorry" proposition. Since I would rather be safe than sorry, how long do I have to break in the TV and do I have to use a break-in DVD?

Thanks for any help you can offer.
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post #19 of 472 Old 07-09-2008, 01:11 PM - Thread Starter
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They say break in should be from 100-150 hours, so far I have mainly watched TV and zoomed in Blu rays, prolly about 20 hours on break in DVD. honestly, this tv has 0 Image retention for me at all. its simply amazing, not exactly sure what the other benefits of breaking in the set might be however...
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post #20 of 472 Old 07-09-2008, 01:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikenaka View Post

What is the prevailing theory regarding breaking in a PDP-6020? It seems there are many conflicting views regarding the necessity of the break in period. Pioneer did not reference a break in period in their instruction manual for the PDP-6020 and some posters claim that Pioneer has deemed the break in period unecessary. I am guessing that this is a "better safe than sorry" proposition. Since I would rather be safe than sorry, how long do I have to break in the TV and do I have to use a break-in DVD?

Thanks for any help you can offer.

It seems that most people will agree that while it probably is no longer necessary, it wouldn't hurt and may improve phosphor aging evenly when they are new. Better safe than sorry seems to be the consensus indeed.

I just took delivery of a 5020 yesterday and have already watched some regular TV and watched an entire movie with D-Nice's reference settings and some very minor tweaking to them to suit my tastes.
I also have tested out a few games on my Xbox360 for less than 20 minutes at a time on a custom AV setting in Game mode at night and Optimum during the day with no hint of IR whatsoever.

That being said, when I'm not actually using the TV, I am breaking it in just to be safe.
I couldn't get the break-in DVD to work, so I made my own break-in images (full RGB colors @ various luminance levels and a greyscale pattern) based on Evangelo's disc and put them on the USB key. I have it cycling on a 30 second slide show using the HMG on the break-in settings D-Nice posted. It's working very well and showed me that I have no stuck pixels and great uniformity.
If people want, I can further explain what images I'm using and the whole USB key and slide show to break it in if you cannot get the DVD to burn correctly or what not.

As for settings I like, I found a little less contrast and brightness was good during The Kingdom @ night with a slight bump in color from the reference settings.
As for gaming, I'm still tweaking...but will post as soon as I find something worthwhile thats not Optimum mode.
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post #21 of 472 Old 07-09-2008, 01:43 PM
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stradaONE8m

Thanks for the information! If it is not too much trouble, could you explain how I can create the break-in images to save to my USB drive?

Thanks.
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post #22 of 472 Old 07-09-2008, 02:44 PM
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No trouble at all.

I'll actually try to explain the reasoning why break-in is done and then the method. Finally I can just send whoever wants the images a small file through email or whatever if you want them.
I recreated a new set because although Evangelo has a set on his site, they came up as not exactly pure colors on my computer, so I did it myself to be certain.

Basically for the break-in you want the phosphors to age evenly. If you watch normal material the thought is that each pixel gets a different input and thus ages at a different rate. The actual practical impact of this variable aging is questionable, but the break in tries to age them all the same. To do that you run the same signal and signal level through them so they have all fired and aged the same.

But we have three phosphor colors for each pixel (R, G, and B), and thus they all must be activated evenly. Each pixel has a luminance value ranging from 0 (off) to 255 (full on).
If you have all RGB values @ 0 (R=0, B=0, G=0), you have pitch black, all @ 255 is pure white. Any other number in between for RG and B appear as grays of various luminance. Playing with these three values gives you all the colors your TV can display/photoshop can create.

So like Evangelo, I just created an image in photoshop of full HD resolution (1920x1080).
I filled one set with RGB all equal to 0, then 50, then 100, then 150, 200, and finally 255. Then I did that for each color so R from 0-255 in the same steps with G and B @ 0. Then same with G from 0-255, R and B @ 0, and finally B from 0-255, and R and G @ 0.

This gives you about 21 images depending on how many steps you want, one set of white to black and shades of gray in the middle. The rest are various levels of firing for each R G and B pixel.

You can make this yourself in less than 10 minutes with photoshop just picking the right color values. Or like I said, I can send them to you or you can get them from Evangelo's website.

Hope this helps. I'm sorry if it's not clear, I can try to answer any questions.
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post #23 of 472 Old 07-09-2008, 03:18 PM
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Accurate calibration takes some getting used to if you are used to oversaturated colors and an overly bright picture. It is something that is an aquired taste, but once you gain an appreciation for accuracy rather than cartoonish colors then there is no going back. I totally agree that at the end of the day you have to adjust a set to how you like it. But I would recommend watching a few Blu rays in a darkened environment and trying to appreciate the accuracy and lifelike picture. You will be able to see more details in every part of the picture, more of what the director intended.

And after that go back to vivid and see the difference. Switch between the calibrated picture and the vivid mode and watch details become obscured and things become more cartoonish. If you have a 1080p set and a blu ray, you might as well try and see all the detail hidden away there.

As far as bumping color a notch or two....I wholeheartedly agree sometimes as a preference and POP effect...I mean hey its a Tv that is meant to look appealing to your eyes...as long as the picture is still reasonably close to accurate.
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post #24 of 472 Old 07-09-2008, 09:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gamelover360 View Post


Accurate calibration takes some getting used to if you are used to oversaturated colors and an overly bright picture. It is something that is an aquired taste, but once you gain an appreciation for accuracy rather than cartoonish colors then there is no going back. I totally agree that at the end of the day you have to adjust a set to how you like it.

But I would recommend watching a few Blu rays in a darkened environment and trying to appreciate the accuracy and lifelike picture. You will be able to see more details in every part of the picture, more of what the director intended.

Acquired taste. Well said. I agree esp. on movie material. I've certainly acquired that taste morre in recent years.

Specifying blu-ray however is one thing but other source material is another. On some games for instance I find Movie Mode to be simply inferior to other A/V modes. On PS3 Gran Turismo HD Concept for instance Movie Mode is ok and brings a more real to life to look esp. to the replay mode but on the whole there's no way I can see it as superior to "Sport" or "Performance" or "Game" or even "Standard" (D-Nice's standard as posted earlier).

Even on some TV Show with "Video" rather than film material the Pop seems to be more a gain than the risk of a little black crush, especially when the material and lighting simply doesn't lend itself to losing detail.

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post #25 of 472 Old 07-09-2008, 09:56 PM
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Some more interesting Game and Movie mode settings from the Non-Elite owners thread:

Quote:
Originally Posted by chaos888 View Post

I'm actually not happy with the color temp. of either mode that I'm using - Movie and Game. I chose these because of their color temp., gamma and DRE that were closest to "reference"

Movie I find too warm and yellow sometimes - not really a fan of D65. Colors tend to all blend together - have the same tonal value.

Game gives nice contrast to the colors and I prefer the flesh tones in this mode better for all around viewing. Sometimes the whites are too blinding and colors are tiny bit too cool though.

I watch in Game for just about everything: TV - SD & HD, DVD, Blu-Ray, PS3, Xbox 360 (sometimes I'll go to Optimum but it produces a picture that's just a little too dark for my prefs). I watch with recessed lights in the 4 corners of the room set fairly dim.

My 6020FD All Around Settings

Picture:
AV Selection: Game
Contrast: 38
Brightness: 0
Color: +1
Tint: 5R
Sharpness: 0

Pure Cinema

Film Mode: Advance
Text Optimization: Off



Power Save Mode: Off

Orbiter: Mode 1 (All screen size modes except Dot-by-Dot)
Mode 2 (Dot-by-Dot screen size mode ONLY)

I could not find a sharpness setting that works for all sources.


My 6020FD Movie Settings

Picture:
AV Selection: Movie
Contrast: 38
Brightness: 0
Color: +2
Tint: 0
Sharpness: 0

Pure Cinema

Film Mode: Advance
Text Optimization: Off



Power Save Mode: Off

Orbiter: Mode 1 (All screen size modes except Dot-by-Dot)
Mode 2 (Dot-by-Dot screen size mode ONLY)

Sometimes I'll use Movie mode but it's rare for the reasons I described above. It does produce a great picture with good sources though.


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post #26 of 472 Old 07-09-2008, 10:08 PM
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stradaOne8,
Thanks for the detailed and well stated explanation regarding break in. If you don't mind, I would appreciate you e-mailing me the image file (mike_nakashima@yahoo.com). Thanks so much.
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post #27 of 472 Old 07-10-2008, 07:06 AM
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It's sent Mike, I included info in the email.
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post #28 of 472 Old 07-15-2008, 04:16 AM
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bump hows performance mode guys
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post #29 of 472 Old 07-15-2008, 05:24 AM
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Can someone explain what exactley is " SM " and will this change in settings make my 5020 look better.

I am using D nice 's setting after i did break in and it looks a tiny bit soft compared to my 4280. Thanks
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post #30 of 472 Old 07-15-2008, 05:42 AM - Thread Starter
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Service Menu, or Mode, D-Nice has found a way to access it to tweak colors shades etc. right now he is still working on it. Performance mode apparently is not good at all on the 5020/6020FD series tvs. So far i like optimum for regular analog cable veiwing, and movie mode for blu ray and tweaking d-nice's settings to my liking.
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