The Official Pioneer 9G Kuro Settings/Issues Thread - Page 25 - AVS Forum
Forum Jump: 
 1Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #721 of 10820 Old 08-30-2008, 10:47 AM
Newbie
 
maskdes's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 5
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by NormalGuyMike View Post

I think you're right. The living room of my condo is a corner room with huge windows (from the floor to the ceiling) on two of its walls.

I have a lot of light in my tv room,too. One patio door and a 8'x5' window.
I am looking for a good black out roller shade. Could someone please tell/
point me to the thread of this topic, or if you know a good brand. Preferably with automation. Thanks.
maskdes is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #722 of 10820 Old 08-30-2008, 12:10 PM
Advanced Member
 
aliaskary77's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 586
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9 Post(s)
Liked: 50
mode 1 is light sensor only. mode 2 is light AND color sensor.

if you are using D-Nice's d65 settings in pure, dont use any sensor...OFF.
He may post the ISF settings later for ISF-AUTO, which may make better use of the sensor.

note: the post above is my opinion. as such, when reading any recommendations from me, please do you research and seek out other recommendations and make up your own mind on your next course of action. i mean, most reasonable adults should know that, but it seems this should be stated anyways.
aliaskary77 is offline  
post #723 of 10820 Old 08-30-2008, 12:21 PM
Member
 
Newenglander's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 123
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by aliaskary77 View Post

mode 1 is light sensor only. mode 2 is light AND color sensor.

if you are using D-Nice's d65 settings in pure, dont use any sensor...OFF.
He may post the ISF settings later for ISF-AUTO, which may make better use of the sensor.

I thought the color and light sensor only work with Optimum mode. Am I wrong??

I am using D-Nice's settings.

I also tried the settings for Performance mode from the link you had posted with your recommened changes. I have noticed that in Pure Mode, some movies do look a little washed out. An example of this is Zodic. Part of the problem at least for me is that I have been watching HD with a Panny for years and am used to a little different PQ.

I really liked your recommendations.
Newenglander is offline  
post #724 of 10820 Old 08-30-2008, 12:28 PM
AVS Special Member
 
progprog's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: The Other Washington
Posts: 9,342
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by botcher View Post

Does anyone have a code for the RC64 remote that will work functions on the PDP-6020 other than the volume/mute and channel up/down buttons?

I tried all of the codes on the HR20 OSD and also the RC64 pdf manual, but none of them will worl anything other than the volume and channel control. I'd like to be able to get into the menus or other functions, just like the RC64 will do on my Sony sets.

Quote:
Originally Posted by pauker01 View Post

I have the same issue. I didn't see any replies the original post.

Is it a learning remote? If so, try learning the commands. If not, I'd recommend trying codes for all the Kuro models made in the last couple years. All their code sets are pretty similar, and one of the older ones might be more complete.
progprog is offline  
post #725 of 10820 Old 08-30-2008, 12:29 PM
AVS Special Member
 
progprog's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: The Other Washington
Posts: 9,342
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by Newenglander View Post

I thought the color and light sensor only works Optimum mode. I am wrong??

I am using D-Nice's settings.

That's what I thought too. Hopefully, we can get some clarification.
progprog is offline  
post #726 of 10820 Old 08-30-2008, 12:31 PM
AVS Special Member
 
coltsfreak18's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,423
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by progprog View Post

That's what I thought too. Hopefully, we can get some clarification.

I know D-Nice uses the color/light sensor in ISF auto, so at night he gets a much dimmer image (for the eyes ), and the last time I remember is when he said he'd be trying it out with pure mode. I think it does work with other modes.

What is dead can never die. Long live my 151!
coltsfreak18 is offline  
post #727 of 10820 Old 08-30-2008, 12:35 PM
AVS Special Member
 
progprog's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: The Other Washington
Posts: 9,342
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by hingis_fan View Post

Hi guys, just wondering if D or turbo have posted an SM guide yet and some settings? Any info or ETA for this kind of thing?

Thanks!

Quote:
Originally Posted by htwaits View Post

Not yet.

If anyone has the serial command for accessing the SM, I'd really appreciate if you can PM it to me. I already have SM access via IR, but I use serial control of my 151 and would prefer to keep everything within one code set. D-Nice originally offered to send it to me, but then decided not to. As I said, I already have SM access, so I'm not asking for some big "insider secret," I just would prefer to use the alternate code.
progprog is offline  
post #728 of 10820 Old 08-30-2008, 12:38 PM
AVS Special Member
 
progprog's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: The Other Washington
Posts: 9,342
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by coltsfreak18 View Post

I know D-Nice uses the color/light sensor in ISF auto, so at night he gets a much dimmer image (for the eyes ), and the last time I remember is when he said he'd be trying it out with pure mode. I think it does work with other modes.

I should refine my comment: I thought it only worked in Optimum and ISF Auto, as that's what the "auto" was all about. Seems like if the sensors work in the other modes, and will modify settings on the fly due to ambient conditions, the settings in those other modes are kind of, well, not pointless, but less important.
progprog is offline  
post #729 of 10820 Old 08-30-2008, 01:04 PM
AVS Special Member
 
mt14942's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Pembroke Pines, Florida
Posts: 1,163
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Liked: 11
I have a question regarding the posted break-in settings. Does any body else worry that these break-in settings especially the contrast is rather high? It seems I have read a number of articles suggesting that during the first 200 hours you should keep the contrast level and other picture settings to 50% or less. The posted 50 setting for contrast and 20 for color far exceeds that. Can anybody out there comment on this as I have just started the break-in with the dvd with these settings and I don't want to fry this display.
Thanks,
Mike
mt14942 is offline  
post #730 of 10820 Old 08-30-2008, 01:14 PM
Advanced Member
 
aliaskary77's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 586
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9 Post(s)
Liked: 50
someone correct me if i am wrong.

light sensor is built into the panel. the sensor we attach is the color sensor.

with optimum, mode 1 and 2 is available, but you have no settings control at all.

with all other modes, you have mode 1 and 2 as an option also. If you want, try mode 1 with other settings. I think it will only effect peak light output and dim as the ambient light goes down, kind of like DNice explained about ISF Auto. I would avoid using mode 2 personally as you dont want to effect color. (although im sure using the color sensor in other modes will not allow it to change as much as it does in optimum)

note: the post above is my opinion. as such, when reading any recommendations from me, please do you research and seek out other recommendations and make up your own mind on your next course of action. i mean, most reasonable adults should know that, but it seems this should be stated anyways.
aliaskary77 is offline  
post #731 of 10820 Old 08-30-2008, 01:17 PM
Member
 
KooSoul's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 50
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
D-Nice:

will you post D75 and D55 settings for tv starting with HEPM?

thanks
KooSoul is offline  
post #732 of 10820 Old 08-30-2008, 01:33 PM
Advanced Member
 
aliaskary77's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 586
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9 Post(s)
Liked: 50
Quote:
Originally Posted by Newenglander View Post

I really liked your recommendations.

glad it helped. credit goes to ikeb. i bookmarked his post as he said its a work in progress.

this is my first flat panel ever. i am on of these that when comparing the displays in the store, loved the LCD image and thought plasmas looked too dim, especially pioneers. but reading everything, i know these displays are the best.

like others have posted, it does take some getting used to. d65 from ikeb in performance, which i use for normal tv which is during the day seems perfect. at nights, if i am watching movies with very little light, d65 from dnice took 2 days to get used to. i was watching beijing opening ceremony in hd with little light. i was playing back and forth with d65pure and d75sport. even my wife who thinks the images are too dim said ouch with i went to d75sport.

i still play between d65pure and d65performance with movies to compare. they can both look good, but i usually fall back to d65pure. d65performance settings by ikeb are a great alternative to those that want a little more pop or have a little more light.

main thing to remember. these are all great base settings to start with, especially for people like me that are new to being given this many options and learning what images should look like. by all means, tweak these furthar and find something you like if the base settings dont do it for you.

note: the post above is my opinion. as such, when reading any recommendations from me, please do you research and seek out other recommendations and make up your own mind on your next course of action. i mean, most reasonable adults should know that, but it seems this should be stated anyways.
aliaskary77 is offline  
post #733 of 10820 Old 08-30-2008, 02:04 PM
AVS Special Member
 
progprog's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: The Other Washington
Posts: 9,342
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by mt14942 View Post

I have a question regarding the posted break-in settings. Does any body else worry that these break-in settings especially the contrast is rather high? It seems I have read a number of articles suggesting that during the first 200 hours you should keep the contrast level and other picture settings to 50% or less. The posted 50 setting for contrast and 20 for color far exceeds that. Can anybody out there comment on this as I have just started the break-in with the dvd with these settings and I don't want to fry this display.
Thanks,
Mike

This gets into the whole break-in vs. no break-in debate. Search the plasma threads and you'll find about two weeks worth of reading on it. My understanding of the break-in (as recommended here, not by Pioneer), is that you are trying to accelerate the the early "wear" on the set, to get it out of the way faster. You'll just have to read the variety of opinions on the topic and decide what you are comfortable with for your TV, and whether that includes the "fry mode" contrast settings.
progprog is offline  
post #734 of 10820 Old 08-30-2008, 02:42 PM
AVS Special Member
 
mt14942's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Pembroke Pines, Florida
Posts: 1,163
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by progprog View Post

This gets into the whole break-in vs. no break-in debate. Search the plasma threads and you'll find about two weeks worth of reading on it. My understanding of the break-in (as recommended here, not by Pioneer), is that you are trying to accelerate the the early "wear" on the set, to get it out of the way faster. You'll just have to read the variety of opinions on the topic and decide what you are comfortable with for your TV, and whether that includes the "fry mode" contrast settings.

Thanks, for chiming in. Even the person who sent me the dvd break-in disc recommended this: (" I suggest turning the contrast and brightness way down (about 15% to 20% of contrast and brightness bar) just in case your DVD player flips out (although I have not heard any cases of this in 2 years). Suggested run time is for 100-200 hours. I would suggest giving your tv a little break from time to time and don't forget you can also still watch tv during the break in period, just cary your viewing, stay away from black bars and high contrast static logos. Enjoy
Evangelos)

I will probably continue using the break-in dvd but set the contrast to 30 instead of 50 which is 50% and also lower color to 10 from 20 and set color temperature to medium as opposed to high. I will just increase the hours to 200 to compensate. I would like to still be able to take advantage of D'nice's settings. I am not sure if they would be approriate if I do this. Of course I will also be doing a fair amount of full screen viewing while doing this, trying to avoid those static channel logo's when ever possible.
Thanks,
Mike
mt14942 is offline  
post #735 of 10820 Old 08-30-2008, 03:24 PM
Member
 
general23cmp's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 152
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Guys,

I am using the thumb drive files on my new 151 (havent watched anything on it yet) using D-Nice's settings. It's been going almost non-stop since last Wednesday. I am using 15 seconds between images(30 seconds seems like a lot). However, there is about a 5 second delay between images of nothing (black). Should I tweak the 150 hour time, so that it is 150 hours of images, or do the provided settings take that blank delay into account? In other words if I run the thumb drive images for 150 hours at 15 second intervals, there is only about 112 hours of images displayed. The other part of the 150 hours is blank screen. If I want 150 hours of thumb images, then I would need about 200 hours of playing the thumb drive (150 hours of images in 15 second intervals and 50 hours of blank screen at 5 second intervals). If D-Nice's settings take this into account, then it doesn't matter. I just want to be sure on the 150 hours.

If someone uses more or less on the display time (30 seconds, for example), then that is an entirely different amount of time if you run it for 150 hours with the 5 second delay still persisting. In 150 hours of run time, the tv would see 128.5 hours of images.

This makes me believe that it is 150 hours of images. the blank screen shouldn't be counted. What is the consensus on this? D-Nice?

I just want to do what is best for optimum picture quality and accuracy of the settings, without having a calibrator coming out, of course.

Thanks.
general23cmp is offline  
post #736 of 10820 Old 08-30-2008, 03:51 PM
Newbie
 
Kuro60Elite2008's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 1
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
This Feb, 2008, acquired my 60" 150-FD (and also Elite Blu-ray player and P's receiver 94TSX)... and never knew there was any procedure(s) that should be done to the screen or otherwise. Purchase was from Ken Crane's TV stores.

Clearly, I'm way behind. Need to catch up, or at least recognize the common issues. Would love to know certain things:
1. Common, easy, newbie levels of stuff to do, or not do, re getting the equipment all working, working together well, and generally producing on the PR, performance optimization, and reviewers optimisms.
2. Best HDMI 1.3a hookups, things to do, optimize, etc.
3. How best to tie in the screen to my home computer network, wirelessly.
4. In what ways might the (new this summer) Pro-151FD be actually improved/better than my Pro-150FD of this last Feb.2008... other than the list price being $1000 less (wonder if there's a refund/rebate/etc.?)

Any inputs appreciated, when anyone has the time, etc. OR/and any good URL's to check out.

Meanwhile, will take same 'off-line' and just continue to observe the threads ongoing, w/o my interfering w same.

Thanks.
Kuro60Elite2008 is offline  
post #737 of 10820 Old 08-30-2008, 04:41 PM
AVS Special Member
 
progprog's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: The Other Washington
Posts: 9,342
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kuro60Elite2008 View Post

This Feb, 2008, acquired my 60" 150-FD (and also Elite Blu-ray player and P's receiver 94TSX)... and never knew there was any procedure(s) that should be done to the screen or otherwise. Purchase was from Ken Crane's TV stores.

Clearly, I'm way behind. Need to catch up, or at least recognize the common issues. Would love to know certain things:
1. Common, easy, newbie levels of stuff to do, or not do, re getting the equipment all working, working together well, and generally producing on the PR, performance optimization, and reviewers optimisms.
2. Best HDMI 1.3a hookups, things to do, optimize, etc.
3. How best to tie in the screen to my home computer network, wirelessly.
4. In what ways might the (new this summer) Pro-151FD be actually improved/better than my Pro-150FD of this last Feb.2008... other than the list price being $1000 less (wonder if there's a refund/rebate/etc.?)

Any inputs appreciated, when anyone has the time, etc. OR/and any good URL's to check out.

Meanwhile, will take same 'off-line' and just continue to observe the threads ongoing, w/o my interfering w same.

Thanks.

You might want to move that post over to the 9G Elite thread. Your questions are more general than the settings focus of this thread and you'd probably get more feedback over there.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1039269
progprog is offline  
post #738 of 10820 Old 08-30-2008, 05:09 PM
Senior Member
 
billybob0405's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Kimberling City, MO
Posts: 437
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by general23cmp View Post

Guys,

I am using the thumb drive files on my new 151 (havent watched anything on it yet) using D-Nice's settings. It's been going almost non-stop since last Wednesday. I am using 15 seconds between images(30 seconds seems like a lot). However, there is about a 5 second delay between images of nothing (black). Should I tweak the 150 hour time, so that it is 150 hours of images, or do the provided settings take that blank delay into account? In other words if I run the thumb drive images for 150 hours at 15 second intervals, there is only about 112 hours of images displayed. The other part of the 150 hours is blank screen. If I want 150 hours of thumb images, then I would need about 200 hours of playing the thumb drive (150 hours of images in 15 second intervals and 50 hours of blank screen at 5 second intervals). If D-Nice's settings take this into account, then it doesn't matter. I just want to be sure on the 150 hours.

If someone uses more or less on the display time (30 seconds, for example), then that is an entirely different amount of time if you run it for 150 hours with the 5 second delay still persisting. In 150 hours of run time, the tv would see 128.5 hours of images.

This makes me believe that it is 150 hours of images. the blank screen shouldn't be counted. What is the consensus on this? D-Nice?

I just want to do what is best for optimum picture quality and accuracy of the settings, without having a calibrator coming out, of course.

Thanks.

There's nothing magical about the 150 hr time frame. It's just a suggested approx goal. Some say 150-200 hrs, the post above yours, quoted evangelos as saying 100-200 hrs with different settings, and it's his break in disk. I wouldn't set the alarm for 3am if that's when the 150hr time hit.

D-Nice used his settings to break in his set. He did not pull these settings out of the air, he has the expertise, knowledge and contacts to validify his settings as probably the most efficient IMHO. To get the best results from his "after breakin settings", it seems logical that you would want to follow the same method as he used. Whether you miss the exact 150 hrs by a few hrs one way or the other is not going to screw the process up, I don't believe. If D-Nice disagrees, I'm sure he will set me straight.

Bill

There are no answers, only choices.
billybob0405 is offline  
post #739 of 10820 Old 08-30-2008, 06:07 PM
Advanced Member
 
mr2828's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Franklin, TN
Posts: 877
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Newenglander View Post

I also tried the settings for Performance mode from the link you had posted with your recommened changes. I have noticed that in Pure Mode, some movies do look a little washed out. An example of this is Zodic. Part of the problem at least for me is that I have been watching HD with a Panny for years and am used to a little different PQ.

If you mean Zodiac, the Fincher movie - it was deliberately made to have somewhat muted colors. So it is supposed to look that way.

If you want "pop" and cartoony bright colors go watch a kiddie movie.
mr2828 is offline  
post #740 of 10820 Old 08-30-2008, 07:14 PM
Advanced Member
 
aliaskary77's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 586
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9 Post(s)
Liked: 50
Quote:
Originally Posted by mr2828 View Post

If you mean Zodiac, the Fincher movie - it was deliberately made to have somewhat muted colors. So it is supposed to look that way.

If you want "pop" and cartoony bright colors go watch a kiddie movie.

1st part, helpful and informative...good for people to know this stuff.

2nd part could really be done without. (this goes for other posters too. ive seen a few that have posted "watch it the way its supposed to be and appreciate it since its the only correct way, or sell the kuro and buy a vizio, you unappreciating noob." ok, maybe i went a little too far. )

note: the post above is my opinion. as such, when reading any recommendations from me, please do you research and seek out other recommendations and make up your own mind on your next course of action. i mean, most reasonable adults should know that, but it seems this should be stated anyways.
aliaskary77 is offline  
post #741 of 10820 Old 08-30-2008, 09:09 PM
Member
 
Newenglander's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 123
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by mr2828 View Post

If you mean Zodiac, the Fincher movie - it was deliberately made to have somewhat muted colors. So it is supposed to look that way.

If you want "pop" and cartoony bright colors go watch a kiddie movie.

I am not an idiot. I know the film was shot in a toned down mode to reflect the time period of the piece. Even in Optimum mode, the colors were still subdued, just not washed out.

I also find fillms where the director wanted a dark theme to be difficult to watch in Pure mode. Two examples are The Dark and AVP Requim. Again, in Optimum mode, the picture was a little brigher which made it easier for me to view.

For most viewing, Pure mode is definitely the way to go. Tonight I watched Unbreakable (BD version). This movie has so much natural high levels of contast that viewing it in Optimum mode would cause retinal damage.

But, it is nice to have different options to choose from to enhance viewing experience.
Newenglander is offline  
post #742 of 10820 Old 08-30-2008, 11:18 PM
AVS Special Member
 
ddgtr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: In A Government Yard In SacTown
Posts: 1,830
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by mt14942 View Post

I have a question regarding the posted break-in settings. Does any body else worry that these break-in settings especially the contrast is rather high? It seems I have read a number of articles suggesting that during the first 200 hours you should keep the contrast level and other picture settings to 50% or less. The posted 50 setting for contrast and 20 for color far exceeds that. Can anybody out there comment on this as I have just started the break-in with the dvd with these settings and I don't want to fry this display.
Thanks,
Mike

Is this something we should worry about?
ddgtr is offline  
post #743 of 10820 Old 08-31-2008, 06:10 AM
AVS Special Member
 
JazzGuyy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Oro Valley AZ
Posts: 2,669
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18 Post(s)
Liked: 78
Quote:
Originally Posted by ddgtr View Post

Is this something we should worry about?

As I understand it, the color and contrast are turned up when using the break-in disk to "overdrive" the panel and thus push the settling in process for the phosphors. It is only to be done where there are single uniform colors across the whole panel which are changing frequently because standard programs at these settings would have all kinds of colors and intensities scattered across the screen because this is essentially what normal content is. Normal programming shown with the break-in settings could probably lead to IR issues.

I used the break-in disk with the "overdrive" settings and saw no negative results. As long as you remember that these settings are only to be used with the break-in disk (or the thumbdrive equivalent) and never with normal programming, I don't think there would be any problems.

JazzGuyy is offline  
post #744 of 10820 Old 09-01-2008, 05:51 AM
AVS Special Member
 
Sam S's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 4,138
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18 Post(s)
Liked: 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sam S View Post

So would GetGray be the best option? If so, the software would not run automatically, correct?

Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Nice View Post

GetGray for SD content. AVS-HD 709 for HD content. The latter is free.

Bump for D-Nice.

I purchased the Chroma5 + CalMAN package. I have not purchased GetGray yet. Based on the software/colorimeter I will be using, is AVIA enough for SD content? I have used AVIA extensively in the past, just didn't know if there was something else on GetGray that I would be missing over my current AVIA disc.
Sam S is offline  
post #745 of 10820 Old 09-01-2008, 09:44 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Addicted Member
 
D-Nice's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Columbia, SC
Posts: 14,947
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 28 Post(s)
Liked: 214
Quote:
Originally Posted by mt14942 View Post

I have a question regarding the posted break-in settings. Does any body else worry that these break-in settings especially the contrast is rather high? It seems I have read a number of articles suggesting that during the first 200 hours you should keep the contrast level and other picture settings to 50% or less. The posted 50 setting for contrast and 20 for color far exceeds that. Can anybody out there comment on this as I have just started the break-in with the dvd with these settings and I don't want to fry this display.
Thanks,
Mike

The break-in settings are un-officially approved by Pioneer. It is not mandatory for you to break-in your TV. If you choose to break-in your TV, this is the most effective way to do it. Reducing the contrast and brightness prolongs the process.
D-Nice is offline  
post #746 of 10820 Old 09-01-2008, 09:47 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Addicted Member
 
D-Nice's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Columbia, SC
Posts: 14,947
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 28 Post(s)
Liked: 214
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sam S View Post

Bump for D-Nice.

I purchased the Chroma5 + CalMAN package. I have not purchased GetGray yet. Based on the software/colorimeter I will be using, is AVIA enough for SD content? I have used AVIA extensively in the past, just didn't know if there was something else on GetGray that I would be missing over my current AVIA disc.

Congrats on your purchase. I have not used Avia in ages as at this point, it's a relic. Get-Gray, IMO, is hands down the best calibration DVD for SD sources. The AVS-709 disc is the best for HD sources (unless you have a pattern generator).

Have fun calibrating your display and make sure you get ControlCAL to activate and calibrate ISF-Auto/Day/Night modes
D-Nice is offline  
post #747 of 10820 Old 09-01-2008, 09:48 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Addicted Member
 
D-Nice's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Columbia, SC
Posts: 14,947
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 28 Post(s)
Liked: 214
Quote:
Originally Posted by KooSoul View Post

D-Nice:

will you post D75 and D55 settings for tv starting with HEPM?

thanks

I doubt it.
D-Nice is offline  
post #748 of 10820 Old 09-01-2008, 09:50 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Addicted Member
 
D-Nice's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Columbia, SC
Posts: 14,947
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 28 Post(s)
Liked: 214
111FD/151FD Pure and Movie mode settings for non-HEPM serial number owners have been updated. These settings may look very radical compared to their predecessors, however they will perform better overall.

As always, enjoy
D-Nice is offline  
post #749 of 10820 Old 09-01-2008, 09:58 AM
AVS Special Member
 
mt14942's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Pembroke Pines, Florida
Posts: 1,163
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Nice View Post

The break-in settings are un-officially approved by Pioneer. It is not mandatory for you to break-in your TV. If you choose to break-in your TV, this is the most effective way to do it. Reducing the contrast and brightness prolongs the process.

Thank's D'Nice, this is my first plasma and I have much to learn. I, and I am sure many others, appreciate all the time and knowledge that you donate to this thread.
mt14942 is offline  
post #750 of 10820 Old 09-01-2008, 11:04 AM
AVS Special Member
 
Sam S's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 4,138
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18 Post(s)
Liked: 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Nice View Post

Congrats on your purchase. I have not used Avia in ages as at this point, it's a relic. Get-Gray, IMO, is hands down the best calibration DVD for SD sources. The AVS-709 disc is the best for HD sources (unless you have a pattern generator).

Have fun calibrating your display and make sure you get ControlCAL to activate and calibrate ISF-Auto/Day/Night modes

Thanks. I am going to take this slow. I don't have a Windows-based laptop today, so that will be another purchase, or I'll drag my desktop into the living room

I was planning on getting access to ControlCAL, I'd like to knock down the brightness a bit (over your recommended settings) for watching in a completely dark room.

See ya over at the ControlCAL forums
Sam S is offline  
Reply Plasma Flat Panel Displays

User Tag List

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off