The Official Pioneer 9G Kuro Settings/Issues Thread - Page 332 - AVS Forum
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post #9931 of 10824 Old 09-23-2010, 01:17 PM
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Originally Posted by progprog View Post

Do you mean specific functions? I've used it with my 151, though I'm sure I didn't try all the available options.

You won't be able to unlock the ISFcc profiles, but you can do some basic commands via serial.
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post #9932 of 10824 Old 09-23-2010, 01:23 PM
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Originally Posted by wrinklefree View Post

You won't be able to unlock the ISFcc profiles, but you can do some basic commands via serial.

Ah, Okay. My ISF modes were already unlocked, so I wouldn't have noticed that. Thanks for the clarification.
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post #9933 of 10824 Old 09-23-2010, 01:32 PM
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However you can unlock the profiles and do it over a LAN for the 101FD. I did so last night and it worked fantastically.

I notice all the user settings have the 9 point gamma set at either 0 or -1. Is there a reason for this?
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post #9934 of 10824 Old 09-23-2010, 04:22 PM
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Originally Posted by xlc210 View Post

However you can unlock the profiles and do it over a LAN for the 101FD. I did so last night and it worked fantastically.

I notice all the user settings have the 9 point gamma set at either 0 or -1. Is there a reason for this?

Well, yes, but the question was specific to the 151.
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post #9935 of 10824 Old 09-23-2010, 04:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xlc210 View Post

I guess crippling is strong. Why not allow the full use of the TV's capabilities to everyone more easily?

ISF is a vendor group not a consumer group. Their interest is in driving sales and customer loyalty for boutiques. ISF branding requires that access to ISF settings be locked. How hard it is to circumvent that lock depends on how carefuly the manufacturer designs the product. I'm not sure how Turbe determined how to unlock the ISFccc modes but his price is negligible and Pioneer doesn't appear to be suing anyone so it's ultimately irrelevant.

Now why Pioneer opted to get ISF branding is certainly a mystery to me since I'm unaware of them using anywhere but in a few displays.

Now I think hacking a Kuro is replacing a control board in a non-Elite to enable ISF modes.
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post #9936 of 10824 Old 09-23-2010, 06:26 PM
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Originally Posted by bodosom View Post

Now I think hacking a Kuro is replacing a control board in a non-Elite to enable ISF modes.

....and wondering whether that makes it a plus-green 151?
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post #9937 of 10824 Old 09-25-2010, 01:20 PM
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Does anyone know how can I get in touch with D-nice i need a full calibrate on my pioneer KRP-600M.THANKS
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post #9938 of 10824 Old 09-25-2010, 01:38 PM
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Originally Posted by GP1890 View Post

Does anyone know how can I get in touch with D-nice i need a full calibrate on my pioneer KRP-600M.THANKS

I believe he currently recommends e-mail to audiovideofidelity@gmail.com.
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post #9939 of 10824 Old 09-25-2010, 01:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by progprog View Post

....and wondering whether that makes it a plus-green 151?

D-nice thinks my "upgraded" Elite board July 2008 plus green 6020 would now be the same as a plus green 151. Loving the look of Pure mode tweaked with D-nice suggested 151 settings.
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post #9940 of 10824 Old 10-04-2010, 06:08 PM
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I need help guys. I just moved (was close so me and a friend hand carried the tv after I carefully wrapped it) and now the tv is perfroming strange. No we didn't drop it, accidentally bang it etc. Other than the move and putting on on a wall mount with a preinstalled (ran through drywall) powercord, everything is the same.

Basically the blu ray input works fine as it did before, but other things seem to be sketchy. The the cpu (dvi I think its called) image now won't show up on screen. Also I can't switch between modes, ie. sports, user, pure, etc. Other settings like adjusting the screen is greyed out and it doesn't want to change inputs. Maybe the remote got bumped or something? Anyone have any ideas, or is there a reset I can do? It wasn't calibrated so I don't care if I lose the settings.

Thanks
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post #9941 of 10824 Old 10-05-2010, 08:27 AM
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Ok, it was an a input not correctly set, so now everything works but the computer. Any thoughts?
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post #9942 of 10824 Old 10-26-2010, 06:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by progprog View Post

Do you mean specific functions? I've used it with my 151, though I'm sure I didn't try all the available options.

Could you clarify how Kurocontrol can be used with the 151? I'm not sure how it can be use via serial.
Thanks.
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post #9943 of 10824 Old 11-08-2010, 03:47 PM
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I was watching a movie last night when my 111's picture freaked out on me. The whole screen turned corse shades of red/orange/yellow/green for a split second. It looked like thermal imaging of a scene with nothing cool in it. I tried to reproduce it right away with no success. Movie was displayed full screen 1080p24 1.78:1 in dot-by-dot mode with power saving and orbiter set to off.

So was it the tv or the blu-ray player? Power surge? Should I be worried? The set was bought less than 4 mounths ago.
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post #9944 of 10824 Old 11-27-2010, 09:00 PM
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My almost 2 year old 111fd has developed loud buzzing on & off,I assume from the power supply,its still under warranty barely, I know this has been a issue whats the fix?
Contact pioneer,how are they handling repairs.
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post #9945 of 10824 Old 11-28-2010, 11:47 PM
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http://www.thxvideotech.com/showthread.php?t=542

Reading the above link, I'm wondering if calibrating my 500M is worthy of a THX calibration, moreso than an ISF. Is it possible?


I also own a 5020, my father has a 4280. If anyone feels like offering idea's about ANY of these 3 Kuro's (should they be calibrated, THX or ISF), please contribute.

ALL 3 are exceptional displays, working perfectly currently using DNICE settings. ZERO problems, no buzz. I saw my sisters G15 for the first time this past wknd, a nice plasma as well - but in a dark room the difference in black levels is obvious. I've yet to see any other flat panel that comes close to my KRP. Thanks for any advice.

KURO owners: "we" are such a proud group
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post #9946 of 10824 Old 11-29-2010, 12:37 AM
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Originally Posted by tony9 View Post

[url]If anyone feels like offering idea's about ANY of these 3 Kuro's (should they be calibrated, THX or ISF), please contribute.

The professional calibrators that participate here at AVS will do the very best for your display. Check out the Kuro owner's reports using the link at the bottom of my post. Post number two has reports from flat panel owners. They all go beyond the short term training that you're referring to.
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post #9947 of 10824 Old 11-29-2010, 09:51 AM
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Originally Posted by tony9 View Post

I'm wondering if calibrating my 500M is worthy of a THX calibration, moreso than an ISF.

Correct calibration of a "monitor" like a 500M would typically be video only. The same standards for video calibration are used by THX and ISF. THX has idiosyncratic practices that go beyond the standards but I believe those are also followed by ISF. If you want your audio system set up per THX recommendations then a THX certified tech is helpful.

Getting a 9G Kuro properly calibrated requires some experience with 9G Kuros. That's more important than generic training. Turbe maintains a list of people that can use ControlCAL and that's your best resource. Some of those people have been to the ISF seminar, some of them have been to THX training and some may have been to neither.
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post #9948 of 10824 Old 12-01-2010, 07:10 AM
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I recently had my 111FD serviced, during which a circuit board was replaced. Immediately after, I noticed a new problem with tuning several channels. What happens is this: after switching to one of these channels, after about a minute the picture will freeze, then shortly thereafter the "Starting up. Please wait." message displays briefly, followed by a black screen that requires a power off to get out of.

I called the service company back and was told that this issue could not be related to the repair and that it was likely due to a weak signal. I have verified that I do have a strong signal, and I have three other tuners that have no problem with these channels. They are, by the way, Clear QAM channels coming directly from the Comcast cable, not through a set top box.

Does anyone have any idea of what is causing this problem? As it stands there is nothing that I can do because I am being told that it is not hardware related.
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post #9949 of 10824 Old 12-06-2010, 04:22 PM
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Hey all, I've had my Pioneer 500m for a little under a year now, and I love it!

But over the past year I've begun to notice more and more dead/stuck pixels.

Normally they don't bother me, as I can usually keep them out of my mind while watching TV, and they are somewhat hard to spot when I sit close. And they are impossible to spot when I sit at my normal seating distance.

I've heard pioneer won't do anything unless you have more than 15 or so dead pixels?

I think I probably have anywhere around the ball park of 5-11 dead/stuck pixels. I'm not sure how many are bad because I don't want to keep finding bad pixels, and some of them aren't completely dead because they work on some colors. So it's made it tough to get a firm number.

My question is, should I contact pioneer or the dealer that I purchased it from? Is there anything they could do....or better yet, is it even worth it?
I just figured if there was something that could be done in my case, I should do it soon before the warranty runs out.

It is kinda funny though, when I bought the TV, I bought a "Pixel Perfect" package so they would check to make sure there were no dead pixels on arrival, but in less then a year then my pixels have started failing. Kinda ironic.

Anyway, Thanks in Advance!
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post #9950 of 10824 Old 12-07-2010, 07:46 AM
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Besides the number (which I can't remember) of pixels it also matters where they are. A rectangle in the center of the screen is the main area. I think they might completely disregard bad pixels outside of that rectangle.
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post #9951 of 10824 Old 12-07-2010, 06:23 PM
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Originally Posted by wbrett View Post

Besides the number (which I can't remember) of pixels it also matters where they are. A rectangle in the center of the screen is the main area. I think they might completely disregard bad pixels outside of that rectangle.

Oh really? I think I might have one or two that are close to the center, but the rest are close the edges or somewhere in-between.

Out of all the dead or stuck pixels I've seen so far, the most noticeable one is at the bottom of the tv almost in line with the "I" in pioneer. About an inch or so from the frame. So I guess that would be a pixel they would disregard. Oh well.
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post #9952 of 10824 Old 12-13-2010, 11:11 AM
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Hey all,

I calibrated my PDP-5020 back in 2008 with D-nice's offsets. Everything looks great still to this day! I'm just curious if it's recommended to have my KURO calibrated once again since it's been a full 2-years without any further picture adjustments?

Also, I've misplaced my original picture settings. Will this completely hamper any further calibration, or will a professional calibrator be able to calibrate it without these?

Thanks in advance.
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post #9953 of 10824 Old 12-13-2010, 11:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bennisten View Post

Hey all,

I calibrated my PDP-5020 back in 2008 with D-nice's offsets. Everything looks great still to this day! I'm just curious if it's recommended to have my KURO calibrated once again since it's been a full 2-years without any further picture adjustments?

Also, I've misplaced my original picture settings. Will this completely hamper any further calibration, or will a professional calibrator be able to calibrate it without these?

Thanks in advance.

D-Nice's offsets will get you close, around 90% or so if you followed his break-in procedures. An actual calibration would have brought you to 100%. As the panel ages, you can get some drifting, and probably would benefit at this time with a full calibration.

No, the original settings are not required.

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post #9954 of 10824 Old 12-13-2010, 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by dsskid View Post

D-Nice's offsets will get you close, around 90% or so if you followed his break-in procedures. An actual calibration would have brought you to 100%. As the panel ages, you can get some drifting, and probably would benefit at this time with a full calibration.

No, the original settings are not required.

How many years of hours should you go between calibrations?
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post #9955 of 10824 Old 12-13-2010, 03:36 PM
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Originally Posted by oppopioneer View Post

How many years of hours should you go between calibrations?

I had a calibration tune-up performed on my 111FD about 15 months after the initial calibration and was surprised at how much it had drifted off the initial calibration. There was a noticeable improvement post tune-up.
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post #9956 of 10824 Old 12-15-2010, 07:06 PM
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Originally Posted by oppopioneer View Post

How many years of hours should you go between calibrations?

I've found that the settings on my Pro-111FD changed quite a bit 1500 - 2000 hours after the initial calibration (done at 250 hrs), which is the first time after the initial calibration I checked it. I've been checking it every 1000 hours or so (it has about 5500 hours on it) and it seems that only minor changes are needed now. It's due for another check, though!



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post #9957 of 10824 Old 12-16-2010, 08:07 PM
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Hey dsskid,

Thanks for your reply - I did follow d-nice's break-in period to a T! Honestly, there is nothing to this day that touches my Kuro. It's one of those TV's that still turns heads when people look at the PQ.

Don't get me wrong, it still has a few flaws to it - namely I find myself very susceptible to the "dirty screen effect" phenomenon. I'm suprised that it wasn't brought up as a bigger issue/complaint back in 2008/09.

Either way, love the Kuro, miss Pioneer, can't wait to see what the future has in store for plasma technology.
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post #9958 of 10824 Old 12-17-2010, 05:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bennisten View Post

Hey dsskid,

Thanks for your reply - I did follow d-nice's break-in period to a T! Honestly, there is nothing to this day that touches my Kuro. It's one of those TV's that still turns heads when people look at the PQ.

Don't get me wrong, it still has a few flaws to it - namely I find myself very susceptible to the "dirty screen effect" phenomenon. I'm suprised that it wasn't brought up as a bigger issue/complaint back in 2008/09.

Either way, love the Kuro, miss Pioneer, can't wait to see what the future has in store for plasma technology.

No display is absolutely perfect, but the Kuro is as close as they come.
Enjoy.

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post #9959 of 10824 Old 12-17-2010, 06:15 PM
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I had a 150FD that was replaced in April 2010 with a 151FD by Pioneer.

UMR was here today and calibrated the 151 FD with ISF day and night settings, and said we could leave it on day mode if the room had a bit of light as it normally does. He also re-did the calibration on our Yamaha RX-V3800 AVR as the last time he was here with the 150FD, it was definitely broken, and since repaired under warranty with a new main sound board.

Funny how installing new codecs last night blew apart the ability for my HTPC to play Blu Rays, so for the calibration we used the older Sony BD player.

Since he left, I have reinstalled Win 7, PowerDVD 10 Ultra II, and VLC Media Player and now it plays BDs again in full glory with native sound in 7.1. These photos are of from Waterworld but the camera just does not do it justice. All BD images make the 2D TV look as if it had a native 3D image.


Here's the world shown flooding:



This makes the boat seemingly float into the sky:



And, a final close up:

My favorite toy
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post #9960 of 10824 Old 12-17-2010, 07:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bennisten View Post
Hey dsskid,

Thanks for your reply - I did follow d-nice's break-in period to a T! Honestly, there is nothing to this day that touches my Kuro. It's one of those TV's that still turns heads when people look at the PQ.

Don't get me wrong, it still has a few flaws to it - namely I find myself very susceptible to the "dirty screen effect" phenomenon. I'm suprised that it wasn't brought up as a bigger issue/complaint back in 2008/09.
Could that be due to the circuit wiring that might cause "noise" instead of the tv? If you have too much connected to a circuit outlet that hurts the performance of the connected equipment and raises the sound floor.
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