The Official Pioneer 9G Kuro Settings/Issues Thread - Page 369 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #11041 of 11070 Old 04-18-2016, 12:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by makaveddie81 View Post
Why do you want to change your panel rx, ry, gx, gy, bx, by??? Those are NOT affected by a pulse meter reset and, unless you have professional grade meter and software, you are better off not touching those.

Factory settings for the service menu RGB High from a non reset panel will not make a difference on your set since you already reset the pulse meter without writing down the actual RGB values. There are two sets of RGB values - configured and actual. The configured ones (which are the ones that we have access to) do NOT change after reset or as the panel ages. The ones that change over time are the actual values. After you reset the pulse meter, the configured values will remain the same, but the actual values will revert back to their initial value. What you should have done was write down the actual values before pulse meter reset and then adjust the configured values AFTER reset so that the actual values match their pre-reset values.

If anything, you just made your grayscale WORSE by plugging in the configured values from a non reset display. If you insist on tinkering with these without using a colorimeter, you need to lower red and raise blue since post reset displays will always be heavy on red.
Makaveddie81..thanks for your info, i was used krp500 settings for this values and i think that this is not correct..can you post if you can the correct values for lx5090 please? thanks in advance
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post #11042 of 11070 Old 04-18-2016, 02:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andy79 View Post
Question: if the "hard-wired" settings for Performance and Standard are identical, why are the reference settings different?

Quote:Originally Posted by Dahlsim

Repost from old thread:


Quote:Originally Posted by Dahlsim

This thread is definitely useful for these sets. There's actually quite a bit of "tweaking" possible for a set with reduced adjustments.

I'll take the liberty to add the other Non-Movie settings which D-Nice has posted for other 6020 A/V modes as his own reccomendations for starters. It should not deter others from adding their own customized settings however.

Underlying Settings for each of A/V Modes:


A/V Mode ---- DRE --- Black Level --- ACL --- Enhancer --- Gamma --- CTI

Dynamic------ High ------- On ------- On ------- 2 ---------- 2 ------ On
Performance-- Mid -------- On ------- On ------- 2 ---------- 2 ------ On
Movie-------- Off -------- On ------- Off ------- 2 ---------- 1 ------ On
Sports------- Mid -------- On ------- On ------- 2 ---------- 2 ------ On
Game-------- Off -------- Off ------- Off ------- 2 ---------- 2 ------ On
Standard----- Mid ------- On ------- On ------- 2 ---------- 2 ------ On

The NR features are on for every A/V mode. Optimum mode changes these settings depending on what the light/color sensor detects.

Also, there is no way in the SM to adjust these features.

Power Save Mode: Off

Standard mode settings

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...postcount=6311

Picture:
AV Selection: Standard
Contrast: 31
Brightness: +3
Color: -3 to -7 (you pick)
Tint: R4
Sharpness: -15

Pure Cinema

Film Mode: Advance
Text Optimization: Off



Power Save Mode: Off

************************************************** ********** *************
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...postcount=5496

Game mode has an 8K+ grayscale. Here are some "ok" settings with that mode:

Picture:
AV Selection: Game
Contrast: 30
Brightness: 0
Color: -4
Tint: R4
Sharpness: -15

Pure Cinema

Film Mode: Advance
Text Optimization: Off



Power Save Mode: Off

************************************************** ********** *************
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...a#post14144788

Picture:
AV Selection: Performance
Contrast: 30
Brightness: +4
Color: -4
Tint: R3
Sharpness: -15

Pure Cinema

Film Mode: Advance
Text Optimization: Off



Power Save Mode: Off
This settings works amazing on my lx5090...thanks d-nice for your work
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post #11043 of 11070 Old 04-18-2016, 03:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by booleano View Post
Makaveddie81..thanks for your info, i was used krp500 settings for this values and i think that this is not correct..can you post if you can the correct values for lx5090 please? thanks in advance

There are no "correct" values. Not only were the values specific to each panel, but the pulse meter reset that you performed on your set means that you would have to find settings from a display that was reset with around the same amount of usage hours as yours that has had those settings calibrated with professional equipment.

Not sure how much more clear I can put this but you need calibration equipment and software to be able to find the right values for your set.

Pioneer Kuro KRP-500M
Pioneer Kuro PRO-141FD
Pioneer Kuro PRO-111FD x 2
Pioneer Kuro PDP-5020 x 2

Last edited by makaveddie81; 04-18-2016 at 03:45 PM.
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post #11044 of 11070 Old 04-18-2016, 05:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by makaveddie81 View Post
There are no "correct" values. Not only were the values specific to each panel, but the pulse meter reset that you performed on your set means that you would have to find settings from a display that was reset with around the same amount of usage hours as yours that has had those settings calibrated with professional equipment.

Not sure how much more clear I can put this but you need calibration equipment and software to be able to find the right values for your set.
How about D-Nice or UMR?
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post #11045 of 11070 Old 04-19-2016, 07:26 AM
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Originally Posted by htwaits View Post
How about D-Nice or UMR?
Ok..which are the values for of panel rgb for lx5090?? is possible to post it please? thanks for all
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post #11046 of 11070 Old 04-19-2016, 03:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by booleano View Post
Ok..which are the values for of panel rgb for lx5090?? is possible to post it please? thanks for all
Sorry. I don't understand.

I'm suggesting the two most qualified calibrators that I know of with extensive Kuro experience. If you're interested in their work check post two of the link on owner's reports at the bottom of my post. Links to those comments are in order of manufacture, model, and the calibrator's AVS user name.

Good luck.
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post #11047 of 11070 Old 04-19-2016, 03:47 PM
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I second d-nice values .

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post #11048 of 11070 Old 04-19-2016, 04:52 PM
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Plugging in the values wont work because he reset his pulse meter, therefore he reset the aging algorithms for the service menu RGB values.

He needs to either calibrate his set or hire someone to do it.

Pioneer Kuro KRP-500M
Pioneer Kuro PRO-141FD
Pioneer Kuro PRO-111FD x 2
Pioneer Kuro PDP-5020 x 2
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post #11049 of 11070 Old 04-19-2016, 09:42 PM
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For accurate RGB numbers you will need to calibrate it yourself with a meter as you already have Controlcal or hire a pro to perform the calibration.

If you want a ballpark figure for RGB Settings on a reset Kuro my 500A has Blue + 50ish and Red -40ish so try:

Red High - 460
Green High - 500
Blue High - 550

These might be totally off on a 5090 but maybe worth trying, also remember to adjust the RGB's on each frequency:

60v
50v
75v
72v

If you want your white balance accurate you need to get it calibrated.
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post #11050 of 11070 Old 04-20-2016, 09:27 AM
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Originally Posted by buttonsw View Post
For accurate RGB numbers you will need to calibrate it yourself with a meter as you already have Controlcal or hire a pro to perform the calibration.

If you want a ballpark figure for RGB Settings on a reset Kuro my 500A has Blue + 50ish and Red -40ish so try:

Red High - 460
Green High - 500
Blue High - 550

These might be totally off on a 5090 but maybe worth trying, also remember to adjust the RGB's on each frequency:

60v
50v
75v
72v

If you want your white balance accurate you need to get it calibrated.
How can i calibrate my white balance buttonsw?? i see in sat tv very white levels.
I set r high to 504, g high to 508 and b high to 500 and is quite good for my lx 5090.
Sorry if i ask sometimes silly questions, i would like to learn...thanks for the help
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post #11051 of 11070 Old 05-03-2016, 01:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by htwaits View Post
Sorry. I don't understand.

I'm suggesting the two most qualified calibrators that I know of with extensive Kuro experience. If you're interested in their work check post two of the link on owner's reports at the bottom of my post. Links to those comments are in order of manufacture, model, and the calibrator's AVS user name.

Good luck.
I'm looking for d-nice work for lx5090 to try those settings in the list below of bottom of your post but i cant find any post to try..can you help me please? sorry for these silly question, i just learning
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post #11052 of 11070 Old 05-03-2016, 02:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by booleano View Post
I'm looking for d-nice work for lx5090 to try those settings in the list below of bottom of your post but i cant find any post to try..can you help me please? sorry for these silly question, i just learning
Only the comments of the owner after having a professional calibration are posted. D-Nice has posted settings for the Pioneer sets that he owns, but he never posted settings from any other Pioneer sets that I'm aware of.
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post #11053 of 11070 Old 05-04-2016, 09:29 AM
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standard mode

Quote:
Originally Posted by htwaits View Post
Only the comments of the owner after having a professional calibration are posted. D-Nice has posted settings for the Pioneer sets that he owns, but he never posted settings from any other Pioneer sets that I'm aware of.

I'm trying to use standard mode in my lx5090 to use it in sat tv. I was trying d-nice settings in isf day and night of 111fd but it's darker than standard mode...which are best settings for sat tv ? thanks in advance
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post #11054 of 11070 Old 05-04-2016, 11:24 AM
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Why not just pay for a professional calibration?

ISF Calibrator
Samsung PN64F8500
Pioneer Kuro Elite Pro-111FD
Pioneer Kuro BDP-320
Displays are like 100% cotton t-shirts. Always buy a size larger than you think you'll need, as they tend to shrink over time.
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post #11055 of 11070 Old 05-04-2016, 11:53 AM
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Bacause i live in Spain


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post #11056 of 11070 Old 05-04-2016, 01:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by booleano View Post
I'm trying to use standard mode in my lx5090 to use it in sat tv. I was trying d-nice settings in isf day and night of 111fd but it's darker than standard mode...which are best settings for sat tv ? thanks in advance
Sorry. I can't advise anyone on calibration methods. This is the 9G thread dedicated to owner calibrations where there may be some settings posted that might help. I can't think of anyplace else to look. Maybe one of the owner calibrators that have posted here can help.
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post #11057 of 11070 Old 05-04-2016, 08:55 PM
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Has anyone else gotten worsened buzzing after doing voltage adjustments? I wasn't too afraid of running my 5020 too hard bc I was getting a new oled but as soon as I did, my pioneer started buzzing like a hornet's nest.

It's coming from the back of the tv (obviously), the top center. Can anyone tell me if this is where the power supply is? Should I be worried about it failing soon? The buzzing isn't the normal kind which is mostly alleviated by using power save mode 2 but a whiny higher pitched one that's new, as far as I can tell.

Any help would be greatly appreciated
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post #11058 of 11070 Old 05-05-2016, 08:08 AM
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Try to decrease abl


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Bacause i live in Spain


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SPAIN
Antonio Nuñez at HomeFUTURA - Spain
David Valencia at DIGITAL LUXE - Spain

also:

https://imagingscience.com/dealers.php?search=Spain
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post #11060 of 11070 Old 05-05-2016, 09:55 AM
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So decreasing the abl control in the service menu will make the abl more aggressive, possibly reducing buzzing?

It was set at 98 by default. How much lower should I go?
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post #11061 of 11070 Old 05-05-2016, 10:56 AM
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So decreasing the abl control in the service menu will make the abl more aggressive, possibly reducing buzzing?

It was set at 98 by default. How much lower should I go?
Try drive mode 2 and set abl to 00 to see default value and off tv and on after
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post #11062 of 11070 Old 05-05-2016, 12:30 PM
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I don't know how to change drive mode in the 5020's service menu (unless it's rtsp or whatever that one right next to vol sus is which you're supposed to keep at 1-3), and setting abl to 0 didn't work.

It wouldn't count it as a relevant value and reverted to whatever I had it at. Instead I just set it really low (like 8) but it didn't seem to make any difference. Maybe a slight difference in higher light output modes (as long as I kept energy save off) but the buzzing/whining I'm getting is even in movie/game mode which have low light output (so low as to not be affected, on my tv, at all by power save in terms of brightness, even on full white)
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post #11063 of 11070 Old 05-06-2016, 10:24 PM
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Try xsus_b and ysus_b set to 125 or 124 to decrease buzzing. Look for 5020 default voltages and set it


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Im sorry for ask this question again but im a littie worried because not im not using fans on my lx5090 and before reset it fan 1 i remember in 173 D/a mode...can i enable it in integrator mode?? thanks to all people and sorry if its not the thread to ask it...
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post #11065 of 11070 Old 05-21-2016, 12:22 AM
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Good morning... is normal 58º degrees on Kuro lx5090?? is normal temp?? thank for the help
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post #11066 of 11070 Old 05-31-2016, 01:28 PM
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New 151FD calibrator

Greetings,
I own a 151FD panel (build month Dec 2008) with 10K hours on it ( I bought it new in 2009).
I had recently decided to ISF calibrate it.
I got controlcal and planned to use my i1pro rev d spectrophotometer.
I was able to get pure mode pretty close with HCFR (attached) before I started trying ISF modes.

I realized that I was going to have problems with low levels due to the noise and drift of the i1 pro.
So I ordered an i1display pro from Amazon. People seemed to say nice things about its sensitivity, speed, accuracy, repeatability.
Is that the best choice for a few hundred dollars?

I had a couple of other questions:
1. if the i1display has color filters that are matched to the human eye (CIE 1931 version) then why is it necessary to have a display specific CCSS color adjustment matrix to get the most accurate readings from the 151fd?
2. Why doesn't HCFR have an RGB levels display window that normalizes (divides) by the target RGB level rather than normalizing by the measured luminance. Such a display would be much more helpful for hitting RGB targets. (perhaps it does, and I have not yet found it )
Attached Files
File Type: zip 2016-05-22b Pure 509.zip (79.0 KB, 20 views)
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post #11067 of 11070 Old 07-15-2016, 09:26 AM
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To that person that wanted more vibrant whites. Change the color temperature to mid. There's your LCD whites. You'll get more light output too.

(sorry, i forget your name. You helped me with the color sensor thingy)

home theater addict
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post #11068 of 11070 Old 07-15-2016, 10:41 AM
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The whites on my set are just fine as long as the source is good. I only see the infamous "dirty Plasma Whites" on lower quality sources and I don't think that's the Kuro's fault really. I was watching that movie Everest the other day, not great but enjoyable I guess and there is a lot of white in that one and everything looks totally clean and white just like an LCD would.
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I have been running my Pro-141FD for a number of years as a monitor.

After some troubleshooting I have come to the conclusion that my source PC has stopped passing through the display. When I try to install my videocard driver and it tries to change the resolution to 1080p my monitor goes black. The strange part is it passes through the image to a standard monitor and also pass through the image if I change source from PC to Video on the Pro-141FD...

I have been running through the PC source for years which is strange.

Now that I am running through Video I was wondering if there are recommended settings for PC Gaming in Video mode on the Pro-141FD?
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post #11070 of 11070 Old Today, 05:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vader1 View Post
The whites on my set are just fine as long as the source is good. I only see the infamous "dirty Plasma Whites" on lower quality sources and I don't think that's the Kuro's fault really. I was watching that movie Everest the other day, not great but enjoyable I guess and there is a lot of white in that one and everything looks totally clean and white just like an LCD would.
Hey, me too, but in 3D. OT, but it's the kind of showcasing of the format (coupled with the right display) that shows the format is more than a gimmick.
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