The Official Pioneer 9G Kuro Settings/Issues Thread - Page 372 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #11131 of 11155 Old 07-05-2017, 06:18 AM
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Originally Posted by saprano View Post
I think it's because of the QC that got worse after 2008. Whatever kuros are left in the factory probably are not even well built like they're suppose to be, sadly.
You're probably right quality-control probably went out the window when they knew they were going to stop making plasma TVs. I think I got every bad one that was in that warehouse
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post #11132 of 11155 Old 07-05-2017, 01:57 PM
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You're probably right quality-control probably went out the window when they knew they were going to stop making plasma TVs. I think I got every bad one that was in that warehouse
It's not just the Kuros. My Samsung PN64F8500 is Kapoot too - power supply probably. Brightness diminished a lot, just like my Pro-151 and the thing shuts off after a 30 mins use with the dreaded red blinking light. The half-life figures that were being suggested for late model plasmas (around 100k hours if I'm not mistaken?) were obviously overstated. Judging from the examples I've seen, plasma sets tend to diminish in brightness performance after 15k hours and some less than that.
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post #11133 of 11155 Old 07-06-2017, 05:07 AM
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Originally Posted by OShag View Post
It's not just the Kuros. My Samsung PN64F8500 is Kapoot too - power supply probably. Brightness diminished a lot, just like my Pro-151 and the thing shuts off after a 30 mins use with the dreaded red blinking light. The half-life figures that were being suggested for late model plasmas (around 100k hours if I'm not mistaken?) were obviously overstated. Judging from the examples I've seen, plasma sets tend to diminish in brightness performance after 15k hours and some less than that.
I remember a long time ago when high definition TVs first came out. There's was a home theater store not too far for me and I kept asking the guy question after question and he gave me a very true statement he said if you're looking for the perfect TV it doesn't exist they all have their flaws and also electronic products breakdown some people are just lucky and their products last them 10 years with no issues I wasn't one of them. It doesn't mean that I think any less of pioneer because every time a TV had to be replaced they replaced it you just had to give them a little bit of a nudge and they replace the TV so. i purchase a usedx151 a with about 8000 hours on it and it works fine I'll use it until it quits or sell it one of the other
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post #11134 of 11155 Old 07-06-2017, 06:56 AM
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... and also electronic products breakdown some people are just lucky and their products last them 10 years with no issues I wasn't one of them.
I was very lucky with my 6020, bought it in 2010 and I have over 20k hours on it easy and it still looks fantastic to my eyes. I keep looking at OLEDs but their issues always end up scaring me off.
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post #11135 of 11155 Old 07-06-2017, 09:42 AM
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I was very lucky with my 6020, bought it in 2010 and I have over 20k hours on it easy and it still looks fantastic to my eyes. I keep looking at OLEDs but their issues always end up scaring me off.
i have a 150fd that i got used with 9000 hours on it now it has close to 20000 hours and it still has a great picture
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post #11136 of 11155 Old 07-11-2017, 08:58 PM
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Originally Posted by rcapprotti View Post
There's was a home theater store not too far for me and I kept asking the guy question after question and he gave me a very true statement he said if you're looking for the perfect TV it doesn't exist they all have their flaws and also electronic products breakdown some people are just lucky and their products last them 10 years with no issues I wasn't one of them. It doesn't mean that I think any less of pioneer because every time a TV had to be replaced they replaced it you just had to give them a little bit of a nudge and they replace the TV so. i purchase a usedx151 a with about 8000 hours on it and it works fine I'll use it until it quits or sell it one of the other
If there's ever a "perfect TV", for me it's the 50 inch Elite 111FD, even to this day.

In the service menu I maxed out the ABL setting and the panel has yet to shut off with blinking red and blue lights.

I would go as far as saying 111FD is The Reference for a plasma because it can display ABL-free bright whites and still retain deep blacks.

Last edited by 34-hfx-83; 07-11-2017 at 09:02 PM.
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post #11137 of 11155 Old 07-12-2017, 07:08 AM
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Originally Posted by 34-hfx-83 View Post
If there's ever a "perfect TV", for me it's the 50 inch Elite 111FD, even to this day.

In the service menu I maxed out the ABL setting and the panel has yet to shut off with blinking red and blue lights.

I would go as far as saying 111FD is The Reference for a plasma because it can display ABL-free bright whites and still retain deep blacks.

Better than the 101-FD??

bob
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post #11138 of 11155 Old 07-12-2017, 07:30 AM
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Originally Posted by spongebob View Post
Better than the 101-FD??

bob
Nope!

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post #11139 of 11155 Old 07-12-2017, 08:09 AM
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Nope!
Thought so!



(proud 101 owner)
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post #11140 of 11155 Old 07-12-2017, 09:59 PM
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I own 101FD too. 101FD be tuned to make idle black near oled, but cannot complete eliminate ABL.

111FD can go ABL-free @ ABL-255 while 101FD only maxes out @ 210 before panel turns off, and that's contrast set default in PURE mode.
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post #11141 of 11155 Old 07-14-2017, 03:45 PM
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I found a KRP-500M on craigslist.

I was about to buy until I discovered that INPUT-6 HDMI is skipped when I press the input button on the remote.
I also tried to connect a device to INPUT 6 HDMI, but there's no output. Only INPUT 5 HDMI is operational.

Is there a fix for this, like simple remote ctrl commands, or INPUT 6 HDMI is busted for reals?
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post #11142 of 11155 Old 07-16-2017, 02:18 PM
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Bump tor answers
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post #11143 of 11155 Old 07-16-2017, 09:01 PM
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Originally Posted by 34-hfx-83 View Post
Bump tor answers
I would not take a chance.

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post #11144 of 11155 Old 07-17-2017, 05:16 AM
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You can do with one HDMI input and connect it to a AVR. The risk might be worth it when the TV is cheap...
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post #11145 of 11155 Old 07-18-2017, 04:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 34-hfx-83 View Post
I found a KRP-500M on craigslist.

I was about to buy until I discovered that INPUT-6 HDMI is skipped when I press the input button on the remote.
I also tried to connect a device to INPUT 6 HDMI, but there's no output. Only INPUT 5 HDMI is operational.

Is there a fix for this, like simple remote ctrl commands, or INPUT 6 HDMI is busted for reals?
i believe the command is ins06 but you would have to confirm with the service manual.

if the price is right, it's really not a big deal.

JVC DLA-RS4810
Pioneer Kuro KRP-500M
Pioneer Kuro PRO-141FD
Pioneer Kuro PRO-151FD
Pioneer Kuro PRO-111FD
Pioneer Kuro PDP-5020
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post #11146 of 11155 Old 07-18-2017, 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by 8mile13 View Post
You can do with one HDMI input and connect it to a AVR. The risk might be worth it when the TV is cheap...
If he takes anyway, he will have to worry about the last HDMI port going out.

Do the Elites have a way of disabling the port in the settings?
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post #11147 of 11155 Old 07-18-2017, 04:41 PM
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If he takes anyway, he will have to worry about the last HDMI port going out.

Do the Elites have a way of disabling the port in the settings?
The KRP 500M does have 2 HDMI inputs so one worries anyway. It has a input setup but you cannot disable any port.
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post #11148 of 11155 Old 07-19-2017, 10:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 34-hfx-83 View Post
I found a KRP-500M on craigslist.

I was about to buy until I discovered that INPUT-6 HDMI is skipped when I press the input button on the remote.
I also tried to connect a device to INPUT 6 HDMI, but there's no output. Only INPUT 5 HDMI is operational.

Is there a fix for this, like simple remote ctrl commands, or INPUT 6 HDMI is busted for reals?
When you cycle through the inputs, you are saying that it just bypasses input 6?
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post #11149 of 11155 Old 07-21-2017, 07:50 AM
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Originally Posted by avsform1 View Post
When you cycle through the inputs, you are saying that it just bypasses input 6?
Yes
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post #11150 of 11155 Old 07-21-2017, 08:56 AM
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There are two ways to get there.
1 ''user menu (tools)'' ''input change''
2 press ''input'' ''6'' . What should happen is a short display ''INPUT 6'' than ''no input signal'', which is when there is no signal of a HDMI connected device.

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post #11151 of 11155 Old 07-24-2017, 02:45 PM
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I have Pioneer PRO-151FD, 60" TV purchased in 2009 still going pretty strong, does anyone know if the USB port on this set is powered? I want to connect Roku Express stick and provide power from the TV.
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post #11152 of 11155 Old 08-20-2017, 05:14 PM
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What's a good price for a PRO-151 these days?

bob
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post #11153 of 11155 Old 08-21-2017, 04:45 PM
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what's a good price for a pro-151 these days?

Bob
$550
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post #11154 of 11155 Old 08-21-2017, 08:57 PM
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$550
Thanks, 14000 hours?

bob
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post #11155 of 11155 Old 09-02-2017, 08:04 AM
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Originally Posted by 34-hfx-83 View Post
If there's ever a "perfect TV", for me it's the 50 inch Elite 111FD, even to this day.

In the service menu I maxed out the ABL setting and the panel has yet to shut off with blinking red and blue lights.

I would go as far as saying 111FD is The Reference for a plasma because it can display ABL-free bright whites and still retain deep blacks.
Hello 34-hfx-83,

Could you please explain ABL and ABL-free bright whites for the 111 and how it impacts viewing? What does it improve?

To benefit from this do you have to enter the service menu or can it be achieved via ISF Day/Night calibration modes by a certified professional like D-Nice etc?

Thanks so much
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