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post #4921 of 5273 Old 06-01-2010, 12:29 PM
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Does anyone have any expert opinions regarding the kuro, about what the home thermostat should be left at during the daytime while at work (the kuro stays home everyday while I work)? I often leave mine at 81 degrees and then kick it down to 76 when I get home! Is this ok do you think? I never fire it up out of standby unless it is around 78 degrees or so (comfortable level) and I have a ceiling fan firing down on the kuro during operation. I hope this isn't too stupid of a question- just curious about what others do for their stay at home kuros!

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post #4922 of 5273 Old 06-01-2010, 01:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Parrish View Post

Does anyone have any expert opinions regarding the kuro, about what the home thermostat should be left at during the daytime while at work (the kuro stays home everyday while I work)? I often leave mine at 81 degrees and then kick it down to 76 when I get home! Is this ok do you think? I never fire it up out of standby unless it is around 78 degrees or so (comfortable level) and I have a ceiling fan firing down on the kuro during operation. I hope this isn't too stupid of a question- just curious about what others do for their stay at home kuros!

I am no expert but 81 to 76 temperture range I feel confident is more that safe. I don't know what the extreme range would be.

Barry
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post #4923 of 5273 Old 06-01-2010, 01:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Parrish View Post

Does anyone have any expert opinions regarding the kuro, about what the home thermostat should be left at during the daytime while at work (the kuro stays home everyday while I work)? I often leave mine at 81 degrees and then kick it down to 76 when I get home! Is this ok do you think? I never fire it up out of standby unless it is around 78 degrees or so (comfortable level) and I have a ceiling fan firing down on the kuro during operation. I hope this isn't too stupid of a question- just curious about what others do for their stay at home kuros!

Your room temps are within the spec'ed operational levels listed by Pioneer.
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post #4924 of 5273 Old 06-01-2010, 01:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Parrish View Post

... I hope this isn't too stupid of a question- just curious about what others do for their stay at home kuros!

I don't do anything and I don't have AC. Besides the text on (or about) page 83 --
Quote:


Operating Environment
Operating environment temperature and humidity: +0 oC to +40 oC (+32 oF to +104 oF); less than 85 %RH (cooling vents not blocked)

-- I expect the cooling fans to come on if the unit is getting hot.
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post #4925 of 5273 Old 06-01-2010, 08:35 PM - Thread Starter
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I use a Rotel RLC 1040 (APC). Personally I think they are good to have for central grounding, voltage regulation (mine fluctuates), surge protection and the personal interest I get from the various monitoring modes i.e. total power, voltage in/out etc.
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post #4926 of 5273 Old 06-05-2010, 05:26 PM
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what are the (4) bolt sizes that connects the monitor to the stand.


found my stand , but lost the hardware (4 bolts)


what size bolts. and what type . they should be metric.


thanks
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post #4927 of 5273 Old 06-05-2010, 05:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by heckler 08 View Post

what are the (4) bolt sizes that connects the monitor to the stand.

M6 x 20mm. It's in the TS-01 manual.
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post #4928 of 5273 Old 07-19-2010, 10:58 PM
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I want to use the IR OUT feature to connect to a Xantech amplified connecting block (791-44), but not exactly what type cable to connect between the two.

Does anyone know?

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post #4929 of 5273 Old 07-20-2010, 09:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mak99 View Post

I want to use the IR OUT feature to connect to a Xantech amplified connecting block (791-44)

See page 1 of the Xantech 282M documend and page 28 of the Pioneer Elite Custom Integrator Manual for wiring information. 3-wire to 2-wire converters are available but I don't think there are standard wiring conventions. It looks like a 3.5mm mono or stereo cable should work but it might also set your house on fire.
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post #4930 of 5273 Old 07-20-2010, 02:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bodosom View Post

See page 1 of the Xantech 282M documend and page 28 of the Pioneer Elite Custom Integrator Manual for wiring information. 3-wire to 2-wire converters are available but I don't think there are standard wiring conventions. It looks like a 3.5mm mono or stereo cable should work but it might also set your house on fire.

Well, that's comforting!

OK, maybe I wasn't clear enough? I want to use the IR OUT port on the Pioneer to send all IR signals into the Xantech's IR RCVR input. I would then run the typical 282M (non-blink) or 283M (blink) emitters from the Xantech to the individual components. I obviously would not need to stick an emitter to the Pioneer itself.

The Xantech manual (here) indicates this is a 3.5mm mini stereo jack. The Pioneer Integrator manual is not clear to me. So I was hoping that another 141 owner was using their IR OUT successfully, and could pass along the cabling used in their setup.

In the infamous words of Pink Floyd - "Is there anybody out there..."

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post #4931 of 5273 Old 07-20-2010, 05:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mak99 View Post

OK, maybe I wasn't clear enough?

You were quite clear. I was still tired. My bad. The wiring is the same (modulo the +12V on sleeve) but it's not obvious if the block wants modulated or unmodulated input. IR receivers typically demodulate the input and deliver just the pulse train to the device. The Kuro sends modulated output. Xantech makes a demodulating three to two wire converter which might work if their distribution blocks reject modulated input. My AVR accepts (and generates) modulated output because they find that works the best in the field. I have no idea how common/uncommon that might be.

I'm going through this right now and definitive answers are hard to come by so I'm just experimenting. I hope I don't burn my house down.

Worse case you can plug an emitter into the Kuro and glue it to a receiver going to the block. No one will know.
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post #4932 of 5273 Old 07-20-2010, 07:06 PM
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I Writing to to share a bizarre experience about a black issue on my kuro 101.

Tonight, while watching tv I realized that the picture was terrible. The blacks were gray at the best and the overall picture was dead flat. To give you an idea of the black level my tv was showing today... in pure mode to see the blacks 'normal' I had to retouch the brightness to -15.

I was puzzled and alarmed in the same time. However, a simple power off/on made things going to normal. But, is this a warning to problems to come? Any idea what might have caused it and what to do to prevent unpleasant surprise?

As a side note, yesterday I changed the tv mode from isf-day to optimum just for curiosity and forgot it there until tonight. I wonder about that...

Regards,
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post #4933 of 5273 Old 07-20-2010, 08:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by orologio View Post

I Writing to to share a bizarre experience about a black issue on my kuro 101.

Tonight, while watching tv I realized that the picture was terrible. The blacks were gray at the best and the overall picture was dead flat. To give you an idea of the black level my tv was showing today... in pure mode to see the blacks 'normal' I had to retouch the brightness to -15.

I was puzzled and alarmed in the same time. However, a simple power off/on made things going to normal. But, is this a warning to problems to come? Any idea what might have caused it and what to do to prevent unpleasant surprise?

As a side note, yesterday I changed the tv mode from isf-day to optimum just for curiosity and forgot it there until tonight. I wonder about that...

Regards,

You should be ok. Just use your calibrated ISF Day/Night settings. Sometimes the source martial can cause what you are describing, as long as you switched back to your calibration (ISF) settings and all is well don't worry about it unless it keeps happening of course.


ss
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post #4934 of 5273 Old 07-21-2010, 12:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bodosom View Post

You were quite clear. I was still tired. My bad. The wiring is the same (modulo the +12V on sleeve) but it's not obvious if the block wants modulated or unmodulated input. IR receivers typically demodulate the input and deliver just the pulse train to the device. The Kuro sends modulated output. Xantech makes a demodulating three to two wire converter which might work if their distribution blocks reject modulated input. My AVR accepts (and generates) modulated output because they find that works the best in the field. I have no idea how common/uncommon that might be.

I'm going through this right now and definitive answers are hard to come by so I'm just experimenting. I hope I don't burn my house down.

Worse case you can plug an emitter into the Kuro and glue it to a receiver going to the block. No one will know.

Well, I was just hoping for a parts list of what to buy - cable type X, adapter plug Y. I can always use the Xantech's Dinky-Link receiver and bypass the Pio's built-in IR port altogether. I was just hoping to be able to use the Pio port to keep things as clean as possible...

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post #4935 of 5273 Old 07-21-2010, 01:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mak99 View Post

Well, I was just hoping for a parts list of what to buy - cable type X, adapter plug Y. I can always use the Xantech's Dinky-Link receiver and bypass the Pio's built-in IR port altogether. I was just hoping to be able to use the Pio port to keep things as clean as possible...

This quote from the Xantech 28EX manual says that their receivers output a modulated signal so a mono (or stereo) cable between the Kuro and block should work.

Quote:


DESCRIPTION
The 28EXT External Emitter Adapter is placed between a Xantech IR system and a list of approved electronic equipment that feature a rear panel IR input jack. These input jacks accept electrical IR commands without the carrier frequency, and are therefore not compatible with full range IR Receivers that output a carrier frequency along with the IR commands, such as all Xantech IR Receivers. The 28EXT interfaces and adapts a Xantech IR receiver to these rear panel IR inputs.

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post #4936 of 5273 Old 07-21-2010, 04:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bodosom View Post

This quote from the Xantech 28EX manual says that their receivers output a modulated signal so a mono (or stereo) cable between the Kuro and block should work.

OK, maybe we're not on the same page here. From what you are describing, are you assuming I'm trying to send a signal from the Xantech to the Pioneer? If so, that is incorrect.

Maybe I'm making the wrong assumption regarding the "IR REPEATER OUT" terminal on the 141. I'm assuming that this terminal is an output port, not an input port.

I assumed the Pioneer's built-in IR sensor takes an IR signal for any component (the 141 itself, along with Blu-ray, STB, HD DVD, etc), and outputs those signals via this IR REPEATER OUT port. I assumed you would connect this to an IR input port on the back of another piece of gear, or a Xantech-type connecting block for distribution to multiple components.

I know the Xantech receivers use a 3.5mm stereo mini-plug, per info on the Xantech website. If it's as simple as plugging this type of cable/connector from the 141 to the Xantech connecting block, that would be perfect for me. This would allow me in the future to locate my gear into an adjacent storage room, sending their IR signals into the 141, out the IR REPEATER port, run a cable into the storage room, into a Xantech connecting block, with a bunch of stick-on emitters going to all the components..

Sorry if you think I'm beating a dead horse, but I want to make sure we're both on the same page!

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post #4937 of 5273 Old 07-21-2010, 05:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mak99 View Post

OK, maybe we're not on the same page here. From what you are describing, are you assuming I'm trying to send a signal from the Xantech to the Pioneer?

No, I understand what you want to do.
Quote:


...
I assumed the Pioneer's built-in IR sensor takes an IR signal for any component (the 141 itself, along with Blu-ray, STB, HD DVD, etc), and outputs those signals via this IR REPEATER OUT port. I assumed you would connect this to an IR input port on the back of another piece of gear, or a Xantech-type connecting block for distribution to multiple components.

I've seen at least one report of success so presumably it works as described.

Quote:


If it's as simple as plugging this type of cable/connector from the 141 to the Xantech connecting block, that would be perfect for me.

That's what the documention implies (you have to read a couple of docs to find out the details). Xantech says their block IR INPUT is compatible with the Kuro IR OUTPUT (38k modulated signal with the same connector wiring). They put +12 on the sleeve to drive the receiver but Pioneer shows that as "isolated" so the only thing that should matter is the ground and the IR signal but you must use a 3-wire (TRS/stereo) cable.

However I haven't tested this so don't blame me if your house burns down.
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post #4938 of 5273 Old 07-22-2010, 07:52 AM
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Just wondering if anyone is living in the KW (Ontario, Canada) area who has what is needed to get into the ISF settings for my 60" Pioneer plasma?

It has been calibrated. I'm just curious to try some of the settings posted in this forum to see the difference.

Please contact me directly at waterloo.bob@gmail.com

Thanks
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post #4939 of 5273 Old 07-22-2010, 12:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bodosom View Post

No, I understand what you want to do.

I've seen at least one report of success so presumably it works as described.
...
However I haven't tested this so don't blame me if your house burns down.

Quit saying that!!

Thanks, glad that you understand what I want to accomplish. I'll try contacting Xantech and/or Pioneer directly and get their recommendations...

...and I'll let you know if I do burn down the dang house!

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post #4940 of 5273 Old 07-28-2010, 05:33 PM
 
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I've just finished installing a $150 HIS ATI 5750 connected to a 2580*1600 desktop display and a Pioneer 141 60" 1080p Plasma. The ATI drivers are stable and everything integrates seamlessly.
This card has a "Enable ITC* Processing" check-box which may help make the picture quality drop-dead gorgeous.

*Select—Enables ITC processing for HDMI displays that are capable of the feature. When movies are played in full-screen mode, the display’s processors can be used to ensure video quality

PowerDvd 10 Ultra MK II and the ATI combination looks better than the Oppo 83 as the computation horsepower isn't even in the same ballpark. Just thought you guys might want the best PQ (includes HDMI audio too) as you, no doubt, like to be spoiled.
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post #4941 of 5273 Old 07-29-2010, 09:44 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HiFiFun View Post

I've just finished installing a $150 HIS ATI 5750 connected to a 2580*1600 desktop display and a Pioneer 141 60" 1080p Plasma. The ATI drivers are stable and everything integrates seamlessly.
This card has a "Enable ITC* Processing" check-box which may help make the picture quality drop-dead gorgeous.

*Select—Enables ITC processing for HDMI displays that are capable of the feature. When movies are played in full-screen mode, the display’s processors can be used to ensure video quality

PowerDvd 10 Ultra MK II and the ATI combination looks better than the Oppo 83 as the computation horsepower isn't even in the same ballpark. Just thought you guys might want the best PQ (includes HDMI audio too) as you, no doubt, like to be spoiled.

interesting, but it doesnt make much sense to me. Are you saying a BD looks better playing this way than through your Oppo 83?
If so an you show a screen shot showing the difference? What have you narrowed down the difference to be and why?
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post #4942 of 5273 Old 08-16-2010, 02:35 PM
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Is there anyway I can get the volume displayed on the monitor?
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post #4943 of 5273 Old 08-16-2010, 07:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gorky View Post

Is there anyway I can get the volume displayed on the monitor?

Check in a thread that's dedicated to owner's of your receiver. Some receivers will display volume, but many do not.
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post #4944 of 5273 Old 08-16-2010, 09:05 PM
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Is there anyway I can get the volume displayed on the monitor?

If you turn on Kuro link on the receiver it should display the volume on the monitor.
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post #4945 of 5273 Old 08-16-2010, 09:13 PM
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Quote:
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interesting, but it doesnt make much sense to me. Are you saying a BD looks better playing this way than through your Oppo 83?
If so an you show a screen shot showing the difference? What have you narrowed down the difference to be and why?

I knew high-end video cards had software enhancements built in to optimize DVD quality, but I wasn't aware that they had dedicated hardware scalers to convert and upscale SD DVDs. The computation power of the GPU (or CPU) shouldn't be a factor in upscaling quality. Maybe "ITC Processing" is a fancy name for source direct.

For Blu Ray, there shouldn't be any difference unless ATI software/hardware is altering the digital 1080p source.
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post #4946 of 5273 Old 08-18-2010, 08:54 PM
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Does anyone know 100% for sure if the 151 or 6020 or any other table stands work with the 141? Ive read posts that say yes and no. Ive been unable to find anyone with a KRP-TS01 for sale.
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post #4947 of 5273 Old 08-18-2010, 09:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vampyre View Post

Does anyone know 100% for sure if the 151 or 6020 or any other table stands work with the 141? Ive read posts that say yes and no. Ive been unable to find anyone with a KRP-TS01 for sale.

I am using a krp-ts01 on my 6020 and fits perfectly so they should all be interchangeable. Note the 6020 stand will leave a gap as it is designed to be used with the bottom mounted speaker bar.

Edit: I am only refering to the 151 and 6020 stand. I don't know if any other one will work.
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post #4948 of 5273 Old 08-19-2010, 04:28 AM
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Vampyre,

Check ebay.

Samsung 64F8500, Panasonic 65VT50, Oppo 95, Tivo Roamio for OTA, Dish VIP722, Marantz AV8801 preamp, Rotel Amps, Atlantic Tech 8200 speakers, Seaton Submersive HP, Calman 5, Chromapure, Accupel DVG-5000, i1Display3pro, i1pro2, eecolor colorbox.
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post #4949 of 5273 Old 09-05-2010, 08:53 PM - Thread Starter
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while i was out today looking at some stuff for a second room I had a chance to look at the latest. Samsung, Runco, Sharp, etc etc, Still the 9G kuro pwned them...by a long shot. After 10 years seriously in this hobby I am amazed that the top of the line in any category has remained at the top for 2 years after its release. Sort of sad considering I would normally be looking for something better at this point. On the other hand from an investment point of view it feels good to have bought the best display available and have it be the best for this long.
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post #4950 of 5273 Old 09-06-2010, 06:40 AM
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I will he attending the shootout on 9/11. It will be interesting to see how my 141 compares to the new best of the best in plasma and LCD.
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