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post #4981 of 5273 Old 10-20-2010, 08:31 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xrox View Post

How many of you 141 owner's keep the display in standby when not in use? Since my kids have become older the power on/off is being used 4-5 times per day . If I keep the display powered on 24/7 and use standby will it will extend the power supply life a significant amount?

I dont think I have ever turned it totally off aside from when I moved. Its been in standby since Aug 2008.
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post #4982 of 5273 Old 10-20-2010, 10:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xrox View Post

How many of you 141 owner's keep the display in standby when not in use?

Our 8G Kuro has been on or in standby since November of 2007. I operate on the theory that cold startup is a "shock" to any electronic component.
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post #4983 of 5273 Old 10-20-2010, 05:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xrox View Post

Since my kids have become older the power on/off is being used 4-5 times per day . If I keep the display powered on 24/7 and use standby will it will extend the power supply life a significant amount?

You mean you (or someone) actually presses the mechanical mains interruption (aka power) switch multiple times a day? I would never imagine that anyone would press any buttons on the panel (let alone the power button).
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Originally Posted by htwaits View Post

Our 8G Kuro has been on or in standby since November of 2007. I operate on the theory that cold startup is a "shock" to any electronic component.

My 9G monitor gets cold in standby (per spec the 60" monitor dissipates .3W in standby, the 50" uses .2W). On the other hand using panel mute will keep one warm.
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post #4984 of 5273 Old 10-20-2010, 06:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Parrish View Post

Yeah weekly calibrations would be very nice for a calibrator indeed- all joking aside isn't it true that as plasmas age and the picture becomes more dull that they are designed to compensate for this and as a result the blacks become lighter? If Kuros are immune to this, then can you explain what makes them different than say the Panasonics that everyone has been complaining about? Is it just that the Kuro has low enough black levels from the start that it is less noticeable to kuro owners?

Panasonic black levels rise (This is only happens to Panasonic Plasma TV's) If this was happening to Kuros don't you think that people who own them would be complaining about it?
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post #4985 of 5273 Old 10-20-2010, 07:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bodosom View Post

You mean you (or someone) actually presses the mechanical mains interruption (aka power) switch multiple times a day? I would never imagine that anyone would press any buttons on the panel (let alone the power button).

Actually after reading your post I realize I was not clear. I meant to say that my family tends to switch the TV off and on using the 'monitor' button on the remote. The panel produces a click sound.

I was wondering if anyone just keeps the panel "on" all the time (blue light on) and cycles power to the sources only (eg PVR, BR..etc)?

I've recently started to do this as the panel has a built in standby that shuts power down to the pixels without a signal.

Is this significantly advantageous regarding power supply life?

Over thinking, over analyzing separates the body from the mind
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post #4986 of 5273 Old 10-20-2010, 07:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Parrish View Post

Yeah weekly calibrations would be very nice for a calibrator indeed- all joking aside isn't it true that as plasmas age and the picture becomes more dull that they are designed to compensate for this and as a result the blacks become lighter? If Kuros are immune to this, then can you explain what makes them different than say the Panasonics that everyone has been complaining about? Is it just that the Kuro has low enough black levels from the start that it is less noticeable to kuro owners?

The Kuro panels generate black level via discharge in the middle of the pixel (discharge space). Panasonic generates black level via discharge on the surface (top) of the pixel.

I would speculate that material changes inside the pixel would strongly affect discharge on or near surfaces of the pixel rather than in the middle of the pixel away from the surfaces (called the discharge space).

As for my 141, subjectively it looks to me like the average black level has actually gone down over time as the oval non-uniformity has dissipated.

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post #4987 of 5273 Old 10-20-2010, 07:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xrox View Post

I was wondering if anyone just keeps the panel "on" all the time (blue light on) and cycles power to the sources only (eg PVR, BR..etc)?

Without regard to your underlying question I'd suggest using Panel Mute or Drive Off rather than or in addition to no-signal off. Sadly although I have a Drive Off IR code I don't have a Drive On.
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post #4988 of 5273 Old 10-21-2010, 10:58 AM
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I finally connected my monitor to my network. Now what? Besides viewing hours, etc...what is the point? Am I missing something? I'm a noob for sure so any suggestions welcomed.

All connected to Network now:
TV: Pioneer Elite Pro-141fd (6k hours now)
Viewing Source: Dirctv HD-DVR (HR-21)
XBOX 360 (1st Gen) with Netflix (I wish it did better sound)
AVR: Integra DTR-5.1 (upgrade someday...no hdmi)
DVD: Panasonic DVD-S77 (upgrade very soon)
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post #4989 of 5273 Old 10-21-2010, 01:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mohillian View Post

I finally connected my monitor to my network. Now what? Besides viewing hours, etc...what is the point?

Not a great deal.

Quote:
Originally Posted by the KRP FAQ View Post

Q. Why did Pioneer include a web interface? It seems useless.
a. The web interface has some utility but for day to day operations your remote is superior. You cannot use the standard remote to check hours (see Service Remote below). Something everyone (impatiently waiting for their panel aging/break-in to finish) wants to do.

Q. How can I check my usage time (hours on), power count, serial number or retrieve the SD/PD Failure code?
a. You have to configure your KRP for network access, attach it to a network or directly to a PC and then open this link: http:///cgi/service_right.cgi where is replaced with the IP address of your KRP -- EZ Hours. You can also check the hours with jdbimmer's KuroReader program (see below) and via the serial port with Chelsea_Fan's piotime.

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post #4990 of 5273 Old 10-24-2010, 09:45 AM
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I picked up a second Pioneer 101 fd on 10-22-2010 , "Demo unit" ,looked decent in the BB showroom . I got it home and it has some minor IR/BI not sure which , along bottom of the screen ,I was /am hoping that goes away ,it is very very hard to see with images on the screen , that is not the major issue however.

The Black level on this DEMO 101 is not even close to my other 101FD and if there is a large display of black on the screen it has a RED tint , so poor black levels are my major issue , if that cannot be corrected it will go back to Best Buy . I have the 101s side by side to compare and have copied the settings .I think this 101 may be toast Any suggestions before I load it up?

Thanks Mark
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post #4991 of 5273 Old 10-24-2010, 11:44 AM
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how were the black levels in the store?

The 101 is soooo very nice!!!
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post #4992 of 5273 Old 10-24-2010, 12:53 PM
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not to bad ,in the store , under the lights ,againt the other brands it looked good .. I knew I would have to chk it out when I got home . Run some test Blurays and chk it in the dark , side by side with my other 101. IR is not to bad ,it may fade , if not I guess that would be burn in , the lack of very low black level is puzzling , I did not expect that would be an issue . I have it hooked up to the same source as the other 101 .

Thanks Mark
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post #4993 of 5273 Old 10-24-2010, 02:03 PM
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Wow this is odd. The only thing I can think of is maybe it is in the wrong color space in Input Setup. However, I would think that that would be extremely obvious on this model. I say this because I have the same set.

The 101 is soooo very nice!!!
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post #4994 of 5273 Old 10-24-2010, 02:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by qwknuf6 View Post

The Black level on this DEMO 101 is not even close to my other 101FD and if there is a large display of black on the screen it has a RED tint

Even if you accurately transfer the settings there may be issues but you could use KuroControl to copy the settings. If you want to be completely confident you should get it calibrated by a competent 9G calibrator.

If it is defective and comes with a Pioneer warranty you could get it fixed.
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post #4995 of 5273 Old 10-24-2010, 07:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by qwknuf6 View Post

I picked up a second Pioneer 101 fd on 10-22-2010 , "Demo unit" ,looked decent in the BB showroom . I got it home and it has some minor IR/BI not sure which , along bottom of the screen ,I was /am hoping that goes away ,it is very very hard to see with images on the screen , that is not the major issue however.

The Black level on this DEMO 101 is not even close to my other 101FD and if there is a large display of black on the screen it has a RED tint , so poor black levels are my major issue , if that cannot be corrected it will go back to Best Buy . I have the 101s side by side to compare and have copied the settings .I think this 101 may be toast Any suggestions before I load it up?

Thanks Mark

What are all the settings you are using on your new 101?

ss
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post #4996 of 5273 Old 10-25-2010, 12:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sillysally View Post

What are all the settings you are using on your new 101?

ss

I used settings from another forum , although I did try different settings just to see if it made a difference , I am running an all white screen to try and get rid if the IR/BI ,I will run this white screen for up to 7 days or until the IR is gone .

Picture
AV Selection: Pure
Contrast : 37
Brightness : 1
Color : 4
Tint : 0
Sharpness : -12
Color Temp : Manual
Red High : -7
Green High : 0
Blue High : -2
Red Low : 0
Green Low : 2
Blue Low : 3
Gamma : 2

Pure Cinema
Film Mode : Advance
Text Optimization: Off

Intelligent Mode: Off

Picture Detail
DRE Picture : Off
Black Level : Off
ACL : Off
Enhancer Mode: Hard

Color Detail
CTI: Off
Color Management
R (RED) : 0
Y (YELLOW) : 0
G (GREEN) : 0
C (CYAN) : 0
B (BLUE) : 0
M (MAGENTA): 0
Color Space : 2

Noise Reduction
3DNR : Off
Field NR : Off
Block NR : Off
Mosquito NR: Off

Other
3DYC : Middle
IP Mode : 2 (Standard)
Drive Mode : 1 (75Hz)
Game Control : Off
Blue Only Mode: Off

Power & Options
Energy Save Mode : Standard
Light Sensor : OFF

Thanks Mark
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post #4997 of 5273 Old 10-25-2010, 02:21 AM
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I would use a brake in disc, one that keeps changing the colors. IR can take a long time to go away but you may see some improvement in 7 days.

Start by lowering contrast to 28, brightness to -1, color to 0. If your black levels improve you can raise contrast by 2 or 3 and brightness by 1.

RGB Controls
R High:-4
G High: 0
B High:+3
R Low: -2
G Low: 0
B Low: -2

I take it you use low lighting. You really want to avoid changing your Green low and high settings, leave Green H/L at 0.

Also try setting your magenta at -2 and yellow at +1.

These settings are just to see what happens with black and the red tint.

ss
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post #4998 of 5273 Old 10-25-2010, 05:53 AM
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Thanks

Will give it a try

Mark
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post #4999 of 5273 Old 10-25-2010, 01:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by qwknuf6 View Post

The Black level on this DEMO 101 is not even close to my other 101FD and if there is a large display of black on the screen it has a RED tint , so poor black levels are my major issue , if that cannot be corrected it will go back to Best Buy . I have the 101s side by side to compare and have copied the settings .I think this 101 may be toast Any suggestions before I load it up?

Thanks Mark

If the panel was calibrated by BB that maybe the issue.

I bought my 141 from BB and it included a free calibration. When they calibrated the panel they did not use the ISF settings or the settings from the home menu but rather changed settings in the service menu so that hey could not be accidently adjusted. To set the greyscale they adjusted the actual drive levels for each of the three primary colors.

When they had finished my panel had exactly what you are describing, a raised black level with a red tint with a mainly black screen. I lived with it for a few days to make sure it wasn't just my eyes and then had them come back and reset the panel to the factory levels which cured the problem. I suspect the meter they were using (a Chroma 5) had a color shift or poor color temperature calibration.

I suspect a professional calibration may solve your issue but they may want to look in the service menu incase there is not enough adjustment range from the ISF menus for the primaries.
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post #5000 of 5273 Old 10-25-2010, 02:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jackdebass View Post

When they calibrated the panel they did not use the ISF settings or the settings from the home menu but rather changed settings in the service menu so that hey could not be accidently adjusted.

Elites are not adjusted in the Factory menu. All advanced non-ISF controls are in the Pro Adjust menu.
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post #5001 of 5273 Old 10-25-2010, 03:22 PM
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I have read post in the past about geek squad getting into the service menu and screwing things up . This could be the case ,although I did not get mine calibrated it was a demo display @ BB for who know how long ,I will chk with geek squad to make sure the service menu is set to factory settings , thanks for the help .

Mark
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post #5002 of 5273 Old 10-25-2010, 04:01 PM
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If it was used as a shop floor demo they almost certainly had it "calibrated".

It is scary but Geek Squad do not use the Pro Adjust menu, that is the point, they adjust the individual color drives in the service menu which screws up the factory set white balance (done for the Signature Series) and causes poor color performance over the luminance range. It looks really bad at low luminance levels just where these sets normally ou perform the competition making the black levels look worse than my old Elite PRO 1130 and with a red cast.

You should be able to get the original drive settings from Pioneer. Good Luck.
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post #5003 of 5273 Old 10-25-2010, 04:16 PM
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post #5004 of 5273 Old 10-31-2010, 08:27 AM
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I returned the Pioneer 101fd to Best Buy,the one with burn in and poor black levels ,also red tint on black screen .This was a display unit .

The manager located another display 101 and had it delivered to my home,this one has no burn in and the black level is close to the 101fd I have had for almost a year ,so it looks like a keeper .

My question is why the diff in black levels between the 2 101s?
Do I have freak 101, the blacks are so dark I can not see the bezel with letterbox movies,even after sitting in complete darkness for over an hour ,even with dark scenes, I.e. .....how to train your dragon.

Mark
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post #5005 of 5273 Old 10-31-2010, 11:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by qwknuf6 View Post

Do I have freak 101, the blacks are so dark I can not see the bezel with letterbox movies,even after sitting in complete darkness for over an hour ,even with dark scenes

It's you. The ECC panel was purported to do 0 MLL but the 9G panels do not. The only way to get 0 is to have the power off.
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post #5006 of 5273 Old 10-31-2010, 12:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bodosom View Post

It's you. The ECC panel was purported to do 0 MLL but the 9G panels do not. The only way to get 0 is to have the power off.

I understand the 9 Gs are not 0 mll,I own three 9 G pioneers,and have owned 2 other 9 Gs in the past ,so I can compare them side by side. One of the 101s has much lower mll than my 151 or the 111 , also lower than the 2 101s I recvd Best Buy,The MLL did not change after calibration BTW.

Mark
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post #5007 of 5273 Old 10-31-2010, 04:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by qwknuf6 View Post


I understand the 9 Gs are not 0 mll,I own three 9 G pioneers,and have owned 2 other 9 Gs in the past ,so I can compare them side by side. One of the 101s has much lower mll than my 151 or the 111 , also lower than the 2 101s I recvd Best Buy,The MLL did not change after calibration BTW.

Mark

It is probably a combination of placebo and build dates.
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post #5008 of 5273 Old 10-31-2010, 04:41 PM
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Does anyone know if the 101's with earlier build dates have lower blacks than the ones with later build dates?

The 101 is soooo very nice!!!
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post #5009 of 5273 Old 10-31-2010, 06:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Nice View Post

It is probably a combination of placebo and build dates.

D-Nice

If one needed a PDP replaced for a 101 under factory warranty ,would one need to be concerned that the replacement PDP whould have a higher MLL ?
If so ,how can one ensure the replacement PDP would have the same MLL?

Thanks.

Mark
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post #5010 of 5273 Old 10-31-2010, 06:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by qwknuf6 View Post

D-Nice

If one needed a PDP replaced for a 101 under factory warranty ,would one need to be concerned that the replacement PDP whould have a higher MLL ?

Yes


Quote:


If so ,how can one ensure the replacement PDP would have the same MLL?

Pay attention to the part number. Get an original one and not a substitute.
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