Originally Posted by montanaman
I notice this too on the warm with offsets applied. Just an idea...have not tried it yet...but what if the cuts and drives were all raised by the same amount; maybe 10, 20, or even 30 (not any higher as the green drive would be at its max of FC/FD)?
EDIT...on second thought one could only raise the values by about 5 because the red drive is getting near its max...It was mentioned the drives should not exceed FC per the service manual (though someone had a default of FD on their green drive).
Maybe could just raise the "allcut" and "alldrive" to achieve the same?
EDIT...This would accomplish the same but again could only go about 5 on each because of the red drive.
I have edited my post...on second thought could only raise the values by about 5 to keep the same "ratio" established with these settings and avoid getting a drive too high. And really, 5 is not going to matter much for screen brightness. I do not have a service manual but it was stated not to exceed FCh on any drive.
As mentioned, if anyone "bricks" their set (myself included) while in the SM it is on their own dime. AVS'ers may or may not help, but repair shops have dime collections...
The Samsung LCD's of 2008 had a tricky SM. The first screen when you went in was for "calibration" and if not careful it was easy to push "enter" a couple times and start a calibration sequence which would fail if the right test pattern was not hooked up. Owners then had to find a proper crosshatch test pattern to hook up and run the calibration again. Almost every day for awhile someone was making this mistake.
I would like to someday get the service manual for this set...
Originally Posted by hydroponik
The calibrated warm temp does look very good, but it seems too dark in the darker scenes, and not sure if it's correct, on my set at least.
In the meantime, I have just raised the user brightness and contrast settings, but I believe adjusting the service menu offsets might offer a better picture.
Raising brightness and contrast works to gain back the shadow detail. Changing the offsets could yield a better picture to one's own eyes, it would just not be a D65 calibrated picture. Again, the only caution I am aware of is raising a drive value above FCh.
To adjust WB by eye (loosely termed the calibrated eye method
),one needs a sense of what a "cut" and "drive" do. I am not absolutely sure but I think the "cuts" adjust the low level intensity of a color, and the "drives" adjust the high level intensity of a color (that is how Samsung describes it and they have WB/greyscale adjustment in their user menu. But they use the terms "offset" and "drive").