The Official Panasonic 12G Settings/Issues Thread - Page 28 - AVS Forum
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post #811 of 4414 Old 05-08-2009, 02:04 AM
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I am about 36 hours into my break in period and was wondering if the "color mgmt" should be on or off?

The default is "on"

BTW it's on a g10.

Thanks.

I have turned off the tv until I get a solid answer. I was running the break-in with the "Color mgmt" on "on".

But I am not sure if that's the proper way.
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post #812 of 4414 Old 05-08-2009, 04:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1200mk View Post

I am about 36 hours into my break in period and was wondering if the "color mgmt" should be on or off?

The default is "on"

BTW it's on a g10.

Thanks.

I have turned off the tv until I get a solid answer. I was running the break-in with the "Color mgmt" on "on".

But I am not sure if that's the proper way.

I leave it off
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post #813 of 4414 Old 05-08-2009, 06:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gridstone View Post

I just received my G10 on Tuesday. It's my first HDTV and I did my research. I'm currently running the slideshow 24/7, turning the TV off for 40 minutes every 12 hours to cool down. I'll have my 120 hours on Monday.

Do we need to let it cool down? I was going to stick my to-be G10 in a guest room and run the break-in for 120 hours straight.
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post #814 of 4414 Old 05-08-2009, 06:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dvarenne View Post

If you look at those 2 images from the above post, you might notice I have a Yamaha center channel speaker on the floor. I had put it right in front of the TV itself, but then it blocked the remote control sensor! The Samsung LCD I had before had the sensor on the right-hand frame of the bezel! Is there a work around? Do they make or sell sensors that I could put somewhere else?!

I'm using an rf remote with an ir emitter attached to the Panny's ir sensor.
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post #815 of 4414 Old 05-08-2009, 06:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adrman View Post

I'm using an rf remote with an ir emitter attached to the Panny's ir sensor.

Thanks for that info. So you can fully control the TV and menus with that rf remote? Can you post a pic or something? Where did you get it?

I think many new owners are going to have this issue! Love the TV otherwise...
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post #816 of 4414 Old 05-08-2009, 06:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dvarenne View Post

If you look at those 2 images from the above post, you might notice I have a Yamaha center channel speaker on the floor. I had put it right in front of the TV itself, but then it blocked the remote control sensor! The Samsung LCD I had before had the sensor on the right-hand frame of the bezel! Is there a work around? Do they make or sell sensors that I could put somewhere else?!


Maybe this would work:
http://www.weaknees.com/rf-remote-details.php

I think many owners will be surprised to find they have this problem of a center speaker blocking the remote sensor on the front of the TV. I love the set otherwise...
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post #817 of 4414 Old 05-08-2009, 07:01 AM
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I've had my 50x1 since early February and have always been extremely careful with everything. Last night I noticed a "problem" on the display. It is down the entire right side of the display, right on the edge, a vertical bar about an inch to inch and a half in width.

Now, you can even see a "difference" when the display is powered off. The rest of the screen looks off, "normal," but this area looks darker. Kind of reminds me of an old calculator screen when it's off. Like something's gone wrong with the pixels.

anyway, when the display is on the problem is not so visible when watching bright scenes, or white background. It's more visible in dark scenes, night etc.

any ideas or suggestions.

Thanks for the help,
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post #818 of 4414 Old 05-08-2009, 07:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daludidi View Post

Do we need to let it cool down? I was going to stick my to-be G10 in a guest room and run the break-in for 120 hours straight.

I ran a fan across the back during the break-in period. The TV will get noticeably more hot running the images than during normal TV viewing.
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post #819 of 4414 Old 05-08-2009, 08:22 AM
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I have an general question about break-in: When I first got my set, I never actually followed a break-in procedure and used vivid for quite a while before I found the AVS forum and settled on Cinema/Warm. My display is currently around 1,200 hrs and I'm wondering if at this point the fact that I did not follow a break-in procedure and also used vivid for more than the first 120 hrs on movies, tv, and video games makes any difference.
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post #820 of 4414 Old 05-08-2009, 09:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeffs386 View Post

I leave it off

would it make a big difference now if I restart using color mgmt "off"?
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post #821 of 4414 Old 05-08-2009, 10:30 AM
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The quote on the bottom of this message is from 2005, but is the advice still good? Would showing just a white screen break in the Plasma as well as the colors?



Quote:
Originally Posted by assJack1
Not meant to be sarcastic, but why wouldn't I just want a white screen all the time? Why would I want any red, green, and blue screens at all. Although unlikely, if the player gets stuck on any of those images that would not be a good thing. But if it gets stuck on white only, then all is fine.

Just curious.
White screen would work just fine, but the "all white" screen does cause the plasma to draw the most current - if you worry about those "green" things.

larry
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post #822 of 4414 Old 05-08-2009, 10:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dvarenne View Post

Maybe this would work:
http://www.weaknees.com/rf-remote-details.php

I think many owners will be surprised to find they have this problem of a center speaker blocking the remote sensor on the front of the TV. I love the set otherwise...

Not sure what everybody's room layout is, but a faily cheap and easy solution is to pick up a shelf(various sizes, mine was 17" W x 9.5" D) from Lowe's/Home Depot and hang it just above & behind the TV, facing the speaker downward towards the listening postion using small rubber stoppers.

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post #823 of 4414 Old 05-08-2009, 11:43 AM
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I can't recall much but I heard from this thread that there was this small issue (regarding the differences between American and European versions of the 12th generation Viera sets in regards to how it handled 24 fps content..........or something like that)

What was it about really?
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post #824 of 4414 Old 05-08-2009, 01:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Nice View Post

Not true. That is the prime reason why there is a specific break-in period. The variance between these sets are very small and you can control how they deviate during the first 100+ hours by using the same controlled content. This procedure has proven accurate results with Pioneer sets per mulitple sources.

Are the effects of following the specific break-in procedure permanent or simply a way to get your posted settings to look best ASAP (like for the X1)?

In other words I don't have an X1, but if I did and didn't do any break-in would the TV look as good as if I did the break-in as specified on page one of this thread eventually (say after 1000-1500 hrs)? This assumes I'm using your full posted settings.
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post #825 of 4414 Old 05-08-2009, 01:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PlasmaPZ80U View Post

Are the effects of following the specific break-in procedure permanent or simply a way to get your posted settings to look best ASAP (like for the X1)?

In other words I don't have an X1, but if I did and didn't do any break-in would the TV look as good as if I did the break-in as specified on page one of this thread eventually (say after 1000-1500 hrs)? This assumes I'm using your full posted settings.

The idea is to do it exactly the same as him to get the closest possible results. So no it wouldn't be the same. How different of a result you would get would have to be tested with numerous sets and settings.
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post #826 of 4414 Old 05-08-2009, 05:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dvarenne View Post

Thanks for that info. So you can fully control the TV and menus with that rf remote? Can you post a pic or something? Where did you get it?

I think many new owners are going to have this issue! Love the TV otherwise...

I'm using a URC MX810 with the MRF350 base station. All menus and functions work properly. I've come up with a work around, but the only issue I have is there is no discrete remote code to select the OTA Antenna input on the Panny. As far as aesthetics, I actually have my rf antenna module hiding right behind the center channel. The other nice thing is my center channel hides the red power led on the panny. I'd recommend reading the Remote Control Area forum here or remotecentral.com for purchasing options. Also, it's not the only rf option out there. I'll try to post a pic or two over the weekend.
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post #827 of 4414 Old 05-08-2009, 06:19 PM
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My break in period for my Panny 46G10 consists of Blue Ray versions of BENJAMIN BUTTON, THE READER, and any other BR movies I can get my hands on. I am also watching some of NBA (HD) through ESPN HD and TNT HD. Go Lakers! I am staying away from 4/3 programming. I watched THE READER on THX (DEFAULT SETTINGS) and BENJAMIN BUTTON in Chad's Custom calibrated settings. Thanks Chad! Amazing!! Now, how do I access the 24fps so I can see what the "flicker" controversy is all about? By the way, am I glad I discovered AVS. Great forums.
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post #828 of 4414 Old 05-08-2009, 06:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adrman View Post

I'm using a URC MX810 with the MRF350 base station. All menus and functions work properly. I've come up with a work around, but the only issue I have is there is no discrete remote code to select the OTA Antenna input on the Panny.

In case you don't know, you can use the Channel + (or Channel -) command as a sort of discreet; that switches the TV to the OTA tuner no matter what input the TV is on.

On my MX500, i created a two step Macro: TV/Video then #1 which switches the TV to the OTA tuner (input #1).

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post #829 of 4414 Old 05-08-2009, 07:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RandyWalters View Post

In case you don't know, you can use the Channel + (or Channel -) command as a sort of discreet; that switches the TV to the OTA tuner no matter what input the TV is on.

On my MX500, i created a two step Macro: TV/Video then #1 which switches the TV to the OTA tuner (input #1).

Basically that's what I'm doing as well. I have a "power up" macro activity that gets me past the 10 or 11 seconds the Panny needs before it will accept another command, then I fire a secondary activity depending on what I want to do. The channel + is my fake discrete to take me to the ANT input. Why Panasonic has discrete codes available for every input except the ANT is beyond me.
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post #830 of 4414 Old 05-08-2009, 08:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adrman View Post

Basically that's what I'm doing as well. I have a "power up" macro activity that gets me past the 10 or 11 seconds the Panny needs before it will accept another command, then I fire a secondary activity depending on what I want to do. The channel + is my fake discrete to take me to the ANT input. Why Panasonic has discrete codes available for every input except the ANT is beyond me.

Their discrete codes originated with the Industrial models (which as you know have no tuner input to switch to) and they were never intended for the consumer market. The input codes that are available just happen to work on the consumer models.

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post #831 of 4414 Old 05-09-2009, 06:49 AM
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Paging D-Nice

Cool 1 or Cool 2 for the g10 breakin slideshow..Does it make a difference?
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post #832 of 4414 Old 05-09-2009, 09:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dvarenne View Post

Thanks for that info. So you can fully control the TV and menus with that rf remote? Can you post a pic or something? Where did you get it?

I think many new owners are going to have this issue! Love the TV otherwise...

Dvarenne, here are a few pics for you. The first shows how it looks at night. The second is a daylight view and the third is the attached ir emitter (upper left) and my rf antenna that are hidden behind the center channel. Hope these help.
LL
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LL
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post #833 of 4414 Old 05-09-2009, 10:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pjack22 View Post

Paging D-Nice

Cool 1 or Cool 2 for the g10 breakin slideshow..Does it make a difference?

paging the "Search this thread" function

doesn't really matter, pick the one that looks a little brighter

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post #834 of 4414 Old 05-09-2009, 02:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by batpig View Post

paging the "Search this thread" function

doesn't really matter, pick the one that looks a little brighter

D-nice has not stated what he is going to use when he does this but for uniformity purposes to get the exact same results as D-nice this actually does matter as the aging will probably be different because cool 1 and cool 2 display slightly different colors.

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post #835 of 4414 Old 05-09-2009, 08:09 PM
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Hello, I have had my G10 for about two weeks and have finished my conditioning using the DVD images. So far a love the picture quality of this TV but I think its a little dark on some material especially TV broadcasts, is there any way to control the Gamma settings within the service menu for at least the TV input?

Mark S
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post #836 of 4414 Old 05-10-2009, 12:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by suprememilo View Post

D-nice has not stated what he is going to use when he does this but for uniformity purposes to get the exact same results as D-nice this actually does matter as the aging will probably be different because cool 1 and cool 2 display slightly different colors.

D-nice choose cool 1 please

I have already started my break in on my G10. Only 24hrs into it and dont want to start over (probably not possible anyway.) This was already stated in the thread somewhere but G10 owners should run the slide show on medium ... slow is to slow more than 1 minute between slides...
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post #837 of 4414 Old 05-10-2009, 01:30 AM
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I'm pretty sure you're incorrect. As I recall, D-nice specifically stated to run the slideshow on the slow setting multiple times. It's turns out to be a little more than 30 seconds per slide.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mediaboy View Post

D-nice choose cool 1 please

This was already stated in the thread somewhere but G10 owners should run the slide show on medium ... slow is to slow more than 1 minute between slides...

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post #838 of 4414 Old 05-10-2009, 04:17 AM
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Hey guys. I just bought a S1 yesterday and began the break-in process. I don't have an SD card to put in, so I had to use the DVD. The thing is, the DVD images have the black bars on the top and bottom. So I used the zoom function on my DVD player to create a full screen image.

I set my DVD player to loop the DVD, but I didn't even stop to think that it would go back to normal view after the first loop.

Anyway, I went to sleep during the first cycle. Needless to say, my heart was bounding when I went in the room to see the black bars were there. I switched it back, but there's definitely some image retention/burn-in there. I'd say the black bars were there for 5 hours. And this is on a BRAND new TV...

Am I screwed? I'll have to get an SD card today and run it through there from now on, but should I even bother? Are the bars burnt into the screen or should they eventually fade?

Man am I scared...

EDIT: Damn dvd player was set to 4:3 view. Just changed it to 16:9 view and everything should be fine from now on. The image retention isn't that noticiable, but the colors are "slightly" lighter at the bottom and top. I just hope that a long enough break-process will allow them to catch up.
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post #839 of 4414 Old 05-10-2009, 06:13 AM
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thechancellor, they should fade totally away over time.
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post #840 of 4414 Old 05-10-2009, 07:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smsnsimba View Post

I'm pretty sure you're incorrect. As I recall, D-nice specifically stated to run the slideshow on the slow setting multiple times. It's turns out to be a little more than 30 seconds per slide.

I think you misunderstood my comments on the slide speeds...

The G10 Medium slide speed IS 30 seconds... If you use SLOW on a G10 you will see the slides on screen for WAY more than 30 seconds. It is more like a minute or a minute and a half. I timed the transitions (transition effects are OFF) and observed it was much longer than the recommended 30 secs if you used Slow. The software did change and one cannot blindly use the settings exactly. Not sure if it will matter or not in the case of the slide show speed - I was not comfortable with the SLOW setting putting the images on the screen for upwards of a minute...

The slide show settings D-nice provided were not based on a G10 / S10.. hence the differences I and others have noted. Different slide speeds (and a change to a previously provided speed i.e Slow) and multiple Cool Color temps are available on the G10 / S10's....
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