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post #721 of 1484 Old 12-13-2009, 04:10 PM
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My 50" set has a block of pixels missing that I need to report to
Samsung, but I just haven't gotten around to it yet. I also noticed today as I was browsing my OTA stations that it added some channels that were not in my lineup, that I had to delete. This has happened in the past but not for quite some time. I have the channel lineup set to receive most of the digital channels in my area, and the ones that are added have always been analog channels and they always report "unsupported resolution" or something to that effect. Has anybody else had this happen to them?
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post #722 of 1484 Old 12-14-2009, 11:25 AM
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nm ,

I miss my old Altec 1590 monoblocks ....
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post #723 of 1484 Old 12-15-2009, 02:11 PM
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can any one help with my settings for my ps3, for gaming and bd. i am using stereodanmans settings for the tv. thanks
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post #724 of 1484 Old 12-15-2009, 11:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rage25 View Post

can any one help with my settings for my ps3, for gaming and bd. i am using stereodanmans settings for the tv. thanks

If you are using Dans settings then set display to rgb limited with superwhite on. Set bluray video output to ycbcr.
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post #725 of 1484 Old 12-18-2009, 02:23 PM
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When I bought this TV, and hooked up a PC to it through HDMI (whichever of the HDMI ports the instruction booklet said to use), I found that at the "recommended" screen resolution of 1024 X 768, everything is stretched out horizontally. I assumed that this is due to the rectangular pixel shape of this TV, versus on a traditional 1024 X 768 computer monitor.

If I want to look at webpages and have the photos be at the correct aspect ratio, I can use the "P.Size" button on the remote to select 4:3 mode instead of 16:9, but this puts up the vertical grey bars on the sides of the screen. If I want to watch a video file, I can either do the same thing, or run the set in 16:9 mode, and use the VLC video player's controls to select 4:3 aspect ratio for a 16:9 file, or 1:1 for a 4:3 file. This works, but it's a bit of a pain to have to do it each time I want to play a file.

In the hope of finding some way to have the computer display in full screen AND at the correct aspect ratio, I have tried both nVidia and ATi video cards and drivers. I've looked through the various settings available for these cards to try to find something that will compensate for the fact that the display's native resolution is 1024 X 768, but stretched out to 16:9, but have been unsuccessful. I concluded that this was just a limitation of this kind of TV.

However, I just recently got a PS3. I connected it via HDMI, accepted the default option that lets the PS3 select the best display setting to use, and it displays everything -- Blu-Ray movies, games, computer video and image files -- in full screen, and at the correct aspect ratio.

So now, I am again wondering if there isn't something I can do to get full screen, correct aspect ratio display from the computer. If the PS3 can figure it out, why can't the computer? Can anyone offer any suggestions?
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post #726 of 1484 Old 12-18-2009, 03:14 PM
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It's because 1280x768 is a 16:10 aspect ratio. Televisions have a 16:9 aspect ratio while most computer monitors have a 16:10 aspect ratio. Just output 1280x720 or 1920x1080. As long as you are using a 16:9 aspect ratio it won't look stretched on the tv. It will look stretched on your computer monitor though with those settings.
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post #727 of 1484 Old 12-18-2009, 03:46 PM
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I goofed; the "recommended setting" is 1024 X 768, not 1280 X 768.
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post #728 of 1484 Old 12-18-2009, 03:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harri Patel View Post

I goofed; the "recommended setting" is 1024 X 768, not 1280 X 768.

That is the native resolution of the 42" model.
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post #729 of 1484 Old 12-18-2009, 07:01 PM
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I understand that.

But if the PS3 knows what to do to make 16:9 stuff look right on the TV's 1024 X 768 display, and the TV itself knows how make over-the-air HD signals look right on the 1024 X 768 display, it seems as though there ought to be some way of accomplishing the same thing when the signal is coming from the PC.
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post #730 of 1484 Old 12-18-2009, 08:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harri Patel View Post

I understand that.

But if the PS3 knows what to do to make 16:9 stuff look right on the TV's 1024 X 768 display, and the TV itself knows how make over-the-air HD signals look right on the 1024 X 768 display, it seems as though there ought to be some way of accomplishing the same thing when the signal is coming from the PC.

The PS3 isn't doing anything special. The PS3 is outputting a 16:9 resolution to a 16:9 screen. That is why it looks right. It doesn't matter that the pixel count is that of a typical 3:4 aspect ratio display (1024x768) because the pixels are stretched (rectangles instead of squares) to fill the screen. You need to set your PC to output a 16:9 resolution such as 1280x720 or 1920x1080. Don't set your PC output to 1024x768. The television has a 16:9 aspect ratio regardless of it's pixel count so the image will not show up properly when the screen is filled. The TV will not map the 1024x768 (3:4) pixels to the stretched 1024x768 (16:9) pixels of the display.
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post #731 of 1484 Old 12-19-2009, 08:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soupnuts View Post

I didn't really do any break in either, only had the set for a few days now and jumped striaght in with Stereomandans settings. When watching tv and there's a static logo I adjust it off screen, but the kids have spent a couple of hours playing the new Wii Mario and I've spent a few hours playing burnout paradise on ps3, both have static images and I havent seen any ir at all.


I take it back, during a bright scene I noticed some IR last night. Ran the screen wash thing for about 2 hours, watched some regular tv for a bit then had it off all night, now in the morning I'm running the wash again. Looks like it's faded some but can still see it, the ir is from a game I havent played in 3 days. At what time period is it no longer ir and considered burn in?
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post #732 of 1484 Old 12-19-2009, 11:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soupnuts View Post

I take it back, during a bright scene I noticed some IR last night. Ran the screen wash thing for about 2 hours, watched some regular tv for a bit then had it off all night, now in the morning I'm running the wash again. Looks like it's faded some but can still see it, the ir is from a game I havent played in 3 days. At what time period is it no longer ir and considered burn in?

I wouldn't worry. As the set is still quite new and phosphors still burning brighter. It's just a little more persistant. It will keep fading. That happened to me once when I first bought mine(a400). Kids played with contrast accidentally on torch mode. It went away, and now I have no problems. The set is now over a year old and looks great.
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post #733 of 1484 Old 12-19-2009, 11:15 PM
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Fry's gave this TV to me as a warranty replacement for my 52 LCD RP Mitis. I couldn't be happier.

It's only tv.
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post #734 of 1484 Old 12-21-2009, 12:54 PM
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Hey guys, just bought me a 42b450 about a week ago and would love some help. I mainly use this for gaming ( 360 ) and noticed most people here it seems have the ps3 settigns down, but is anyone have a recommendations and settings I should use for my 360? Also what about the setting on the black level option in the 360 display option? Also, on a side note, I use my 360 for netflix streaming and I noticed when during a scene transition or if the movie ends the screen goes to black for a couple of seconds the screen will like flash and flicker then when the credits start rolling its fine..

What would cause this issue and how do I resolve it? Thanks for the help guys appreciate it.
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post #735 of 1484 Old 12-22-2009, 07:21 AM
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Hey after some extensive troubleshooting and testing, I have determined what causing (my display combo atleast...xbox and tv) to flicker. I would force the xbox to go to an all black screen like when starting a new game or going back to the dashboard and would tweak each setting and test again.. .After a bit of that I have fully come to the conclusion that (again atleast for my display) if I would happen to turn up the brightness past 45 the flicker would happen. It did not matter about any other setting.

I tried alot of configs as well...tv mode (ie standard..movie..) gammaj, contrast, black level, auto nr...you name it... After trying each setting the brightness is what triggerd the flicker when it went to an all black screen. Maybe someone else who has exp the flicker can confirm my findings, but thought I would help fellow sammy owners. Thanks!
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post #736 of 1484 Old 12-30-2009, 11:23 PM
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I'm going to be picking up the 42B450 at BestBuy tomorrow...finally. It's not going to be my main display anyways, just something to have on the side to play around with ect.

Anyways, once i get it hooked up and get the picture settings to my liking i'll be posting up tons of pictures!

Mainly for Bluray(HDMI/PS3), Wii games(Component/480p) and PS3 games.
And while I'm at it I can actually do comarisons with the B450 and my Sony wega trinitron as far as Color and Black levels go and of course how wii games look in comparison. Of course the B450 will have Widescreen and ProgressiveScan which will be great for the wii...BUT the CRT will have the advantage in motion(slightly) no upscaled image, no lag and i'm guessing it will have the edge in black levels. I'm hoping this sammy can match my CRT regarding color...Because apperantly everybody is raving about Samsungs color when it comes to plasmas.

Anyways, I need to play around with my new camera, expect tons of pictures in a few days
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post #737 of 1484 Old 01-01-2010, 02:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CruelInventions View Post

Not all that uncommon and what's worse for you.. it might not actually be dead at all. Sometimes new plasmas will have a few misbehaving pixels which eventually settle down and start behaving as they should (pixel might start out as working then stop or it decides to display only one color, but then, it springs back to permanent normal operation again, all within the first 100 hours or so).

That's why it's always best not to freak out and act hastily until you know for sure, giving it a week or two. The replacement might turn out to have one or more truly dead pixels and then what? Will Amazon keep replacing at your word with no restock charge?

I searched on "Dead" and saw your post from a few months back.

Just picked up a 50B450 a few days ago. All pixels started out fine (not dead) when I ran the Break-In images, then I noticed 2 pixels that appear to be stuck on green. They are most evident when displaying the red images, and not really visible with any other image.

Did not know they can come back to life, so I'll give it some time. Thanks...

-T
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post #738 of 1484 Old 01-01-2010, 02:56 PM
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Deleted. Moved question to general Samsung Plasma thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...ghlight=smooth
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post #739 of 1484 Old 01-01-2010, 10:00 PM
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Can someone please post the best settings for break-in and after break-in?

Thank you and happy new years.
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post #740 of 1484 Old 01-02-2010, 07:50 AM
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You can use my settings. These sets really don't need much in the sense of break-in.

Movie Mode, Warm 2 setting
Cell Light: 10
Contrast: 85
Brightness: 50 (this can vary from 48 to 52 depending on what input or source you are using)
Sharpness: 20 for standard definition content. I use 5 for HD content (Blu-Ray, or High Def Channels)
Color: 38
Tint: G42/R58

Advanced: Everything off or zero except:
Gamma: 0 (or -1 if you like)
Color Space: Auto

White Balance:
Red Offset: 21
Green Offset: 25
Blue Offset: 15
Red Gain: 25
Green Gain: 0
Blue Gain: 27

Dan
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post #741 of 1484 Old 01-02-2010, 08:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stereomandan View Post

You can use my settings. These sets really don't need much in the sense of break-in.

Movie Mode, Warm 2 setting
Cell Light: 10
Contrast: 85
Brightness: 50 (this can vary from 48 to 52 depending on what input or source you are using)
Sharpness: 20 for standard definition content. I use 5 for HD content (Blu-Ray, or High Def Channels)
Color: 38
Tint: G42/R58

Advanced: Everything off or zero except:
Gamma: 0 (or -1 if you like)
Color Space: Auto

White Balance:
Red Offset: 21
Green Offset: 25
Blue Offset: 15
Red Gain: 25
Green Gain: 0
Blue Gain: 27

Dan

Thanks, will give them a try when I pick up my TV on Monday.
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post #742 of 1484 Old 01-04-2010, 04:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stereomandan View Post

You can use my settings. These sets really don't need much in the sense of break-in.

Movie Mode, Warm 2 setting
Cell Light: 10
Contrast: 85
Brightness: 50 (this can vary from 48 to 52 depending on what input or source you are using)
Sharpness: 20 for standard definition content. I use 5 for HD content (Blu-Ray, or High Def Channels)
Color: 38
Tint: G42/R58

Advanced: Everything off or zero except:
Gamma: 0 (or -1 if you like)
Color Space: Auto

White Balance:
Red Offset: 21
Green Offset: 25
Blue Offset: 15
Red Gain: 25
Green Gain: 0
Blue Gain: 27

Dan

Hi, I just got a PN42B450 for Christmas and so far, I've been doing regular viewing on it in Standard mode with full screen, but varying channels and inputs as I saw recommended on another thread, and being careful not to pause my Wii games, Blu-Ray movies, or TV shows if I can help it. Should I calibrate as you recommend above until I reach 200hrs, or is what I am doing okay for break-in? I've only had it mounted a couple of weeks. Also, do I need a calibration disc and/or break-in DVD? Or can I just use your settings for break-in (and the ones I saw posted for viewing)? My room has two small windows with white mini-blinds and is a little dark, even on bright days, unless I open the blinds. Both windows are on the adjacent wall where the TV is mounted, but neither seems to cause a reflection problem when I open the blinds (admittedly, I haven't watch much TV during the day).

Finally, it noticed that when a scene is completely black (such as when The Bride is buried alive in "Kill Bill Vol. 2"), the set "blinks" in a cycle from black to grey to lighter grey (or white) repeatedly until the scene changes. Is that normal, or something I need to have fixed?

I tried to find an official thread for this set, but couldn't. Thanks for any and all help!
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post #743 of 1484 Old 01-04-2010, 05:57 PM
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Dezbot whats your brightness set at? If its to low it will either do that or appear to shut off on an all black screen
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post #744 of 1484 Old 01-04-2010, 09:02 PM
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Kanpol, I'm running it in Standard mode, which has brightness set at 45.
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post #745 of 1484 Old 01-04-2010, 11:32 PM
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try movie mode and see what happens, also do you notice it on regular tv or using a bluray or ps3? Also raise brightness up a few notches and see what happens
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post #746 of 1484 Old 01-08-2010, 02:58 AM
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I resolved the flickering on black picture with setting brightness on 50 or more.
That's on Standard.

And a question:
Does anybody know if it's possible to activate Warm 1 & 2 on Standard picture mode through the service menu?
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post #747 of 1484 Old 01-08-2010, 07:58 AM
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I read over the manual yesterday and found a few things that I wanted to review here before I mess with them.

First is the "Screen Burn Protection" that shifts pixels in the horizontal and vertical position every 1-4 minutes. Has anyone enabled that and seen any improvement? Or is scrolling still necessary?

How does the "Energy Saving" affect the picture? Anyone try that? I was going to set it to Low. Maybe higher for break-in?

I checked samsung.com and found it published a firmware update. I didn't notice any release notes that explained what that update fixed. It's dated 9/2009. Has anyone tried it?

Thanks.
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post #748 of 1484 Old 01-08-2010, 08:00 AM
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About the IR issue I was having a few posts back, that's not a problem anymore. Anytime I've been gaming or whatever for to long and notice it I run the break in images overnight and it's gone the next day. Nut I have a new question.

Anybody have any advice for using this as a computer monitor. Won't be a regular thing but trying it out now with laptop hooked up to it via HDMI and I can't get it just right.

The manual says the recommended res setting is 1360x768, If I set the tv as main display, 1360x768 isnt even an option as a res. If I set the laptop monitor as main and the 450 as the secondary , it becomes a selectable res and looks fine on the laptop, but on the tv it goes to a little square in the middle of the set and the it shows the incoming signal as being 1980x1020. ONly way I've really found to do it is to set the comp to output 1024x720 which causes it to overscan on the tv but in the grafx options there is an aspect ratio adjustment that I can use to get everything in the display.

This is a content medium but I would like to optimally set the res to match the tv at 1366x768. I have it hooked to hdmi 2 like the manual says. Only issue might be that the hdmi cable is running through my av reciever but it just passes the signal along, don't really see why it would alter it.

Another thing according to the manual it shows an auto adjust and screen option which it says is for optimizing video quality from pc's. I dont see these menu options anywhere.
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post #749 of 1484 Old 01-08-2010, 08:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rockugg View Post

I read over the manual yesterday and found a few things that I wanted to review here before I mess with them.

First is the "Screen Burn Protection" that shifts pixels in the horizontal and vertical position every 1-4 minutes. Has anyone enabled that and seen any improvement? Or is scrolling still necessary?

How does the "Energy Saving" affect the picture? Anyone try that? I was going to set it to Low. Maybe higher for break-in?

I checked samsung.com and found it published a firmware update. I didn't notice any release notes that explained what that update fixed. It's dated 9/2009. Has anyone tried it?

Thanks.

Well, from a very non-technical standpoint, I purchased this television over the summer (mid-August) and have had no troubles at all thus far. After a while I used stereomandan's settings with no trouble (you can search for these through the forum). I now use Dallows's settings as I have a large window in my living room and the brighter screen helps during daytime watching. I have my pixel shift on the default setting as well. I did see minimal image retention after several hours of watching black barred television (before many hours of watching) but the scrolling took care of it. Keep in mind this was right after I received the set and kept it on the Standard/Default picture settings (until I found this forum). The only thing I've noticed about Energy Saving is it decreases the brightness of the picture relating directly how aggressive you set the Energy Saving (mine is currently off). I also have seen no noticeable difference in my electric bill either, I believe with just regular watching this is negligible. Oh, and I did install the new firmware update, no noticeable difference. There's a list of exactly what it does online, perhaps I saw it in this forum but I cannot remember the specifics.

Honestly in summary, for this television, it's a great buy. I have Comcast HD service and it's a great picture for my 9' viewing. As are Blu-Ray movies. Perhaps I should've taken more precautions with the break-in but in the beginning I used no real precautions: all default settings, watched black barred programs, and played video games for hours. I have thankfully noticed no image quality difference or any burn-in/image retention recently with the now 5+ months of usage.

I hope this helps, if you can take into consideration a budgeted college student's advice. You have a great set and I'm now off to watch mine as I'm currently snowed in.
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post #750 of 1484 Old 01-10-2010, 09:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danny_w View Post

My 50" set has a block of pixels missing that I need to report to
Samsung, but I just haven't gotten around to it yet. I also noticed today as I was browsing my OTA stations that it added some channels that were not in my lineup, that I had to delete. This has happened in the past but not for quite some time. I have the channel lineup set to receive most of the digital channels in my area, and the ones that are added have always been analog channels and they always report "unsupported resolution" or something to that effect. Has anybody else had this happen to them?

Danny_w, did you ever contact Samsung for a panel replacement? My 2 dead pixels are light green in color, and are only visible when the screen is red.

Doe anyone know what the Samsung policy on on dead pixels? Bought mine from Best Buy, and am still within the 30 days return policy. Did not have it delivered, so I'd hate to box this up and replace it with a possible buzzer. I'd prefer Samsung to replace the panel within the 30 day return period.

-T
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