Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Not very deep in the heart of Texas
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Another satisfied customer.
Just to be different, I ordered mine from Mouser, they are closer to me and usually get the order out the same day and by USPS priority mail it gets here the next day.
I got Nichicon caps, I've had good luck with them on my audio projects, although the Panasonic are good caps too.
Just for reference here's what I ordered.
Qty Part # Desc.
1 - 647-UPM1A471MPD 10volts 470uF
2 - 647-UVZ1A332MHD 10volts 3300uF
2 - 647-UPS1A102MPD 10volts 1000uF
2 - 647-UPS1E102MHD 25volts 1000uF
Kinda wish I had noticed there is also a 47uF in the vicinity that I actually pulled then realized I didn't have a replacement so i just carefully soldered it back in.
But it's working now, so I'm happy
I'll add one little tip,it's a technique I've used over the years on big components you can't cut off first, like electrolytics.
Put a dab of flux on one of the joints, then just heat the joint up real well until all the solder is liquefied.
Then kind of pry or tilt the cap from the bottom until the first lead comes out of the hole.
Then you can do the same thing on the other lead and the whole capacitor will almost just fall out.
Just be real careful it's all heated up good and the solder is liquefied or you will pull the bottom trace, or through hole, or especially the top trace off with the cap!
Then it's real easy to clean up the old solder with solder wick or a solder sucker so you can insert the new part.
After everything's done, clean up the flux and everything with a little brush and some alcohol, (or they sell official flux remover liquid and brushes, lol), and check for solder bridges.
These boards are silkscreened so it's pretty easy to see the positive lead marked, and if I remember the negative lead had a flattened circle on the silkscreen.