I have a Vizio VP322 HDTV10A, p/n: 10123020022. The neighbor was throwing it away so I figured what the heck. I'll try to fix it. The initial symptoms that were given to me are the TV wouldn't power on at all. No orange stand bye Vizio light, no nothing. After reading several forums I took the back apart and sure enough there were two bulging 3300uF 10v capacitors (C233 and C234). I ordered two replacement caps and changed them out. After getting everything back together the stand bye Vizio light would come on/turn orange and everything returned to normal. IT WORKED!!! Unfortunately, my confidence was cut off as the Vizio light below the screen stayed white like the TV is on, but the picture goes away/turns black after 10-20 mins of operation. (Not sure about sound). There were no other visibly bulged/damaged caps on the power supply. So again hitting the forums I ran across a repair kit offered by LCDAlternatives http://lcdalternatives.com/Repair-Kit-Vizio-VP322-Plasma-TV-Capacitors-P1699285.aspx that comes with all the following caps (C233 and C234 3300uF 10v, C236 1000uF 10v, C201 47uF 100v, C206 100uF 16v, C241 470uF 10v, C204 and C205 1000uF 25v capcitors). The kit is good, but now after replacing all these caps the display will not even turn on for the 10-20 mins like before.
My current symptoms are the Vizio light turns orange in stand bye mode, once the power button is pushed the Vizio light turns white, a relay clicks, the D104 LED on the main logic board turns solid Green/yellow, followed by the D201 turning Green/yellow blinking once/second 3x, the display attempts to turn on/flashes grey, the Y-sustain board starts to buzz like power is there, within 1 second the relay clicks again, the display quickly goes black/blank, both the D104 and D201 LED's on the the main logic board go out, the Vizio light below the screen stays white. It's almost like the picture trys to load, it can't, and therefore a safety shut down occurs? Any help moving forward would be appreciated. Or there might be a video post on here of a 32" Vizio tv flying from a second story balcony. Thanks!
Any luck with this set?
I have one with the same trouble and symptoms.
Let me know if ya find any thing,its been siting for awhile sort of gave up for awhile.
My current symptoms are the Vizio light turns orange in stand bye mode, once the power button is pushed the Vizio light turns white, a relay clicks, the D104 LED on the main logic board turns solid Green/yellow, followed by the D201 turning Green/yellow blinking once/second 3x, the display attempts to turn on/flashes grey, the Y-sustain board starts to buzz like power is there, within 1 second the relay clicks again, the display quickly goes black/blank, both the D104 and D201 LED's on the the main logic board go out, the Vizio light below the screen stays white.
The sticker located on the plasma shows Va is rated at 60 VDC and Vs is rated at 195 VDC.
When Y sustain is plugged in. Set voltmeter to VDC and check voltage at the two Vs pins and one Va pin.
With the Y sustain board plugged in mine was getting 0 VDC on all 3 pins as soon as the power button was pressed. Or you could say it never got to the rated values indicated by the manufacturers sticker.
With the 9-pin Y sustain cable removed from the power supply I re-tested. This time after pushing the power button I got the following stable and continuous voltages left to right while looking at the power supply.
VS = 195.5 VDC, VS = 195.5 VDC, NC = Not used, GND = good, GND = good, GND = good, VA = 58.7 VDC, GND = good, and M5V = 5.09 VDC.
Ordered a replacement Y sustain Friday night and will have an update after getting it installed tonight.
*to check grounds (pins 4,5,6 and 8) just put the voltmeter on the ohm setting and see if there is an open circuit between each pin and the ground screw used by the power cord.
It sounds like your y-sustain is driving a shorted y-buffer board. You can inspect the y-buffer board by doing a careful visual examination, normally when the chips go (vertical series of square ones on the left hand side) they short and the chip's casing is breached. The old y-sustain is probably toasted from trying to drive a shorted buffer, and the new one may already be damaged as well.
The thing is with these plasmas is that there is so much high current, high voltage and interconnection inside the set that when one board goes, the power surge usually takes out others or they become weakened and fail soon after. Normally the Y-Buffers/Sustain go and both have to be replaced, most people will look at the price tag and scrap the whole set.
9-pin results after testing each pin for resistance to ground.
11-pin results after testing each pin for resistance to ground. *Note: this actual pic shows the connector removed so you can visually see what each pin is labeled as.
Also with everything physically disconnected from the Y-sustain except the 9-pin that goes from the power supply to the sustain board itself. I am getting this shut down behavior. Thinking I got hosed on the replacement Y-sustain board.
You could also disconnect one of the Y-Buffer boards at a time and see if the set fires up with half the picture missing. If it turns on it works, just turn it off immediately and replace that buffer board. Don't allow the set to run with only one buffer board as this can cause the remaining good one to blow after about 30 seconds (never mind how I know).
You can also check the fuses on the y-sustain by doing a resistance check. Just look for any component labeled with F followed by a number. They can be very tiny or large and are typically placed near power connectors.I think I see one in your first picture hiding underneath the aluminum heat sink.
Here is a better pic of the entire Y-sustain.
Or do you mean the two chips (XRLBT and XRRBT) on the bottom of this pic? If so, they appear to be daisy chained in the middle by a similar 4 wire connector that is found when going from the actual Y-sustain to the XRLBT chip (two grounds and two Va). Also, these (XRLBT and XRRBT) chips have six ribbon style connectors on the bottom of each chip that I am assuming goes to the screen and one connecter that goes directly to the main logic board via a ribbon style cable. Also FYI, I just unburied the (XRLBT and XRRBT) chips today. In all of my past troubleshooting the ribbons and 4-pin cable between the two bottom chips have never been completely disconnected while trying to power on the tv.
One day this past July, this Vizio TV had trouble turning on. It quickly clicked right back off. I tried it again, and again.
Finally, it did stay on. It did power-up somewhat normally for about a week until finally it would not turn on at all. There is no amber VIZIO glow.
“It’s dead, Jim!”
I searched and found this thread. Therefore, I opened up this Vizio VP322 TV, located the power supply board, and saw five caps bulged on their tops.
I purchased a capacitor replacement kit from LCDalternatives. The kit comes with 9 caps. I replaced all 9 caps, bulged or not, leaking or not (I did not have any visible leakage).
The VP322 has been working once again for the past two weeks now!
Update: It is March 2013. All is well, as far as the PS fix! Thanks to all who posted the fix with this model!
I have this other issue on pinks and greens showing up in the brightest parts of an image with B&W programs. This has been there before the PS gave up.
I will search the forum, and if need be, post about this 'color' problem. It goes away upon reset of the Menu items. But, it comes back over time.
 Cry-Babies Don't Always Get Their Way.  Refurbished Vizio 4K TVs.
I got the VP422 42" from a family member; they said they were watching a movie and it just stopped working.
First thing i did was check fuses; the main fuse by the input was good; but there in the center towards the top the T4amp 250v fuse was blown. I've replaced it and applied power (plugged it in) there are 2 clicking sounds come from the PS unit when it gets power; the visio light is Orange; no reaction or clicking when i press the power button. One green LED on sub-board off the PS board.
I can't find an exact match where someone had similar problem I'm still TS the issue with multimeter to insure the PS is the issue or not before i waste money. Caps are all good; no bulges. Rev of the PS board is 1.1
So far this is my Power outputs.
AC_Det = 5 v
Lamp (top one w/ orange wire) =.4v
5vsb = 5.2v
No other power.. no power at all when you press the Power button from the PS_on.. no power output from either side vS or anything. All other fuses good. Only that center one was blown (Which I've replaced and has not blown again. Does this sound like a problem PS board or Main board> ? IMG00301-20130402-1044.jpg 285k .jpg file IMG00302-20130402-1044.jpg 453k .jpg file IMG00303-20130402-1044.jpg 153k .jpg file IMG00305-20130402-1107.jpg 691k .jpg file
Any input would be great. See attached photos.
There are also two more "thingies" that are halfway broken off on the left side buffer logic/ scan board. They are the (2) 84hk 33 100v thingies in the C21 / C22 spots on the board. Not sure if I broke them taking off the back cover or what.
What are they called? Not sure how to find them online to order them, or should i just order a new board?
So I cracked it open and there were two leaky caps.
Two 3300uf capacitors, a few burns, and a few curse words later and it's working like new. Thank you so much.
For the first timers I hope this helps.
Used: soldering tool, electric solder wire, and I replaced the two 3300uf caps that were warped and leaking.
I had to change the 2 3300 mfd caps and the 1000 mfd cap. it fixed the problem....... i too had 5 screws left over......not bad for over 50 some screws to take out. The repair cost me about 8 dollars plus some time.
Well after reading all the post I didn't find anyone tha my had the same problem that I am having.My problem is that I have no Audio everything else is fine. I replace the caps that you guys talk about and I even replace the audio board and still same problem..Hope someone can help me fix my problem..please
any suggeestion what to do before replacing these 2 caps?
Were they 10 Volt caps?......The voltage is just as important as the mfd. size. More than 10 volts should be ok but not less than 10 volts. As I recall the 1000 mfd. cap was rated at 25 volt. One other question that I gave is. Did you make sure that the orientation was right when u soldered them in. I am no expert but I do have some electronic experience. Good Luck.........hope this helps.
Thank you all for such an informative thread. You helped me fix this thing for $12 and an hour or so of my time. Thank you!