The Official Pioneer 9G North American KRP-500M / KRP-600M Owner's Discussion Pt. II - Page 233 - AVS Forum
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post #6961 of 7058 Old 06-08-2014, 03:39 AM
 
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I was doing some viewing on my 600M last night and noticed, for the first time since I purchased it in 2009, some mild buzzing coming from the panel. I'm using it in the "power save 1 mode" and I'm wondering if this has anything to do with the buzzing or is this something I will be hearing from now on. My set has roughly 3500 hours on it and I don't think I have ever heard this until now. It's not very loud, but I can hear it when the movie isn't playing. Thanks.
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post #6962 of 7058 Old 06-08-2014, 05:35 AM
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It is going to explode and burst in to flames…! Quick, sell it to me cheap before it blows up! smile.gif

I am no expert on the sound you are hearing … and I am sure someone more qualified than me will answer.

I have three (3) KUROS and I have never heard an audible buzzing on any of them.

I know this does not help … but I wanted to contribute what I do know based on my experience with these sets.

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post #6963 of 7058 Old 06-08-2014, 04:53 PM
 
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Anyone else care to comment? Turbe?
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post #6964 of 7058 Old 06-09-2014, 06:46 AM
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William,

Is the buzz audible on power save mode two also ?... If yes, then perhaps there is something amiss
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post #6965 of 7058 Old 06-09-2014, 09:04 AM
 
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Originally Posted by Stu03 View Post

William,

Is the buzz audible on power save mode two also ?... If yes, then perhaps there is something amiss
I have never used PowerSave 2 mode, so I don't know. Should I check this? And, if so, what might be amiss? Thanks.
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post #6966 of 7058 Old 06-09-2014, 03:08 PM
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Plasma buzz is normal. It is typically louder during brighter scenes and more quiet during darker scenes.

I'm not aware of any of these models being silent, so it's been there whether you've noticed it or not.
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post #6967 of 7058 Old 06-09-2014, 04:45 PM
 
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Originally Posted by Actionable Mango View Post

Plasma buzz is normal. It is typically louder during brighter scenes and more quiet during darker scenes.

I'm not aware of any of these models being silent, so it's been there whether you've noticed it or not.
Well, if it has been there, it wasn't as loud as it is now..."loud" being a relative term. What's more bothersome right now is my "humming" Ideal-lume bias light which sets on a shelf behind the TV. Don't know if it's a bad ballast in the fixture or the flourescent lamp going bad. It's a little dark at one end (an 18" lamp) so I'm going to replace it first, although 6500K bulbs are a little hard to find locally.
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post #6968 of 7058 Old 06-09-2014, 07:41 PM
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Originally Posted by William Moore View Post

What's more bothersome right now is my "humming" Ideal-lume bias light which sets on a shelf behind the TV. Don't know if it's a bad ballast in the fixture or the flourescent lamp going bad. It's a little dark at one end (an 18" lamp) so I'm going to replace it first, although 6500K bulbs are a little hard to find locally.
You should check with Ideal-lume if you want to maintain the standard that you started with.
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post #6969 of 7058 Old 06-09-2014, 08:07 PM
 
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You should check with Ideal-lume if you want to maintain the standard that you started with.
I'm going to try a cheap bulb locally and see if that cures the humming. If it does, I'll order the RIGHT bulb from Ideal-Lume. I'm hoping it's the bulb, because I don't think I will be able to get some one to replace the ballast in my fixture and the factory no longer makes it. I purchased it about 12 years ago. The new fixture costs about twice what mine did.
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post #6970 of 7058 Old 06-10-2014, 06:38 AM
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I have never used PowerSave 2 mode, so I don't know. Should I check this? And, if so, what might be amiss? Thanks.

I just trying to figure out if you have a faulty power supply unit. Power save mode two is basically silent. Even with volume muted.

But it could be vibration related. If a plasma TV goes in for a MOT then the first thing they do is check all PCB's (and) tighten up all visible screws.

My 500M is only 1200 hrs old or whatever. But because my Pioneer warranty has run out i am free to do as i see fit to keep it ticking over nicely. First thing i have done is order a big can of Deoxit from the US which will be here in a week or two. I am going to take the back off and condition every point and contact i can see/think of. I have also ordered a medical grade 2Amp IEC inlet filter to replace the standard inlet filter that is in all Kuro models. Wasn't all that expensive tbh.

Going to have a look at all ribbon cable also, spray/clean these with Deoxit and tighten up any screw or contact that may have loosened.

I am with this 500M for the long haul and will clean her up once a year inside the back - oh i keep the fans running constantly also to the point i don't notice them anymore.

I won't buy LCD over 32" - it (doesn't) work imo. So god knows when a reliable OLED 4K or 8K will be here. So i'm with the KURO monitor as long as it takes. LCD can take a jump off a bridge as far as I'm concerned

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post #6971 of 7058 Old 06-10-2014, 06:52 AM
 
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You're a braver man than I, old buddy. I don't think I'll be taking mine apart anytime soon. Besides, from what I'm hearing, plasma buzz is somewhat normal and to be expected at some point. If this leads to some part failing, I'll call a service tech to make a repair. Thanks for your concern, though.
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Originally Posted by Stu03 View Post

I just trying to figure out if you have a faulty power supply unit. Power save mode two is basically silent. Even with volume muted.

But it could be vibration related. If a plasma TV goes in for a MOT then the first thing they do is check all PCB's (and) tighten up all visible screws.

My 500M is only 1200 hrs old or whatever. But because my Pioneer warranty has run out i am free to do as i see fit to keep it ticking over nicely. First thing i have done is order a big can of Deoxit from the US which will be here in a week or two. I am going to take the back off and condition every point and contact i can see/think of. I have also ordered a medical grade 2Amp IEC inlet filter to replace the standard inlet filter that is in all Kuro models. Wasn't all that expensive tbh.

Going to have a look at all ribbon cable also, spray/clean these with Deoxit and tighten up any screw or contact that may have loosened.

I am with this 500M for the long haul and will clean her up once a year inside the back - oh i keep the fans running constantly also to the point i don't notice them anymore.

I won't buy LCD over 32" - it (doesn't) work imo. So god knows when a reliable OLED 4K or 8K will be here. So i'm with the KURO monitor as long as it takes. LCD can take a jump off a bridge as far as I'm concerned

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bit over the top that stu lad lol:D

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post #6973 of 7058 Old 06-10-2014, 12:28 PM
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Anyone in the market in Chicagoland for a used KRP-600M? Not sure what the market is like for used panels like this...
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post #6974 of 7058 Old 06-12-2014, 12:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stu03 View Post
Quote:Originally Posted by William Moore 

I have never used PowerSave 2 mode, so I don't know. Should I check this? And, if so, what might be amiss? Thanks.


I just trying to figure out if you have a faulty power supply unit. Power save mode two is basically silent. Even with volume muted.

But it could be vibration related. If a plasma TV goes in for a MOT then the first thing they do is check all PCB's (and) tighten up all visible screws.

My 500M is only 1200 hrs old or whatever. But because my Pioneer warranty has run out i am free to do as i see fit to keep it ticking over nicely. First thing i have done is order a big can of Deoxit from the US which will be here in a week or two. I am going to take the back off and condition every point and contact i can see/think of. I have also ordered a medical grade 2Amp IEC inlet filter to replace the standard inlet filter that is in all Kuro models. Wasn't all that expensive tbh.

Going to have a look at all ribbon cable also, spray/clean these with Deoxit and tighten up any screw or contact that may have loosened.

I am with this 500M for the long haul and will clean her up once a year inside the back - oh i keep the fans running constantly also to the point i don't notice them anymore.

I won't buy LCD over 32" - it (doesn't) work imo. So god knows when a reliable OLED 4K or 8K will be here. So i'm with the KURO monitor as long as it takes. LCD can take a jump off a bridge as far as I'm concerned

I wonder if setting a reset panel to power save mode 2 is a viable way to know if its being over-volted.

How do you activate the fans? I could't find the command in the service manual.
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post #6975 of 7058 Old 06-13-2014, 02:41 AM
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Originally Posted by makaveddie81 View Post
I wonder if setting a reset panel to power save mode 2 is a viable way to know if its being over-volted.

How do you activate the fans? I could't find the command in the service manual.

Doubt it. All its doing is lowering VOL SUS and ABL.

Anyway if referring to the Kuro monitors for fan activation if no service remote and using the supplied remote all you have to do is press and hold the INFO button (Display) for approximately four seconds - then release and quickly press the HOME MENU button.

That takes you to the handy INTEGRATOR layer where the fan control option is.
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post #6976 of 7058 Old 06-13-2014, 02:56 AM
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Originally Posted by craigyboy View Post
Quote:Originally Posted by Stu03 

I just trying to figure out if you have a faulty power supply unit. Power save mode two is basically silent. Even with volume muted.

But it could be vibration related. If a plasma TV goes in for a MOT then the first thing they do is check all PCB's (and) tighten up all visible screws.

My 500M is only 1200 hrs old or whatever. But because my Pioneer warranty has run out i am free to do as i see fit to keep it ticking over nicely. First thing i have done is order a big can of Deoxit from the US which will be here in a week or two. I am going to take the back off and condition every point and contact i can see/think of. I have also ordered a medical grade 2Amp IEC inlet filter to replace the standard inlet filter that is in all Kuro models. Wasn't all that expensive tbh.

Going to have a look at all ribbon cable also, spray/clean these with Deoxit and tighten up any screw or contact that may have loosened.

I am with this 500M for the long haul and will clean her up once a year inside the back - oh i keep the fans running constantly also to the point i don't notice them anymore.

I won't buy LCD over 32" - it (doesn't) work imo. So god knows when a reliable OLED 4K or 8K will be here. So i'm with the KURO monitor as long as it takes. LCD can take a jump off a bridge as far as I'm concerned



bit over the top that stu lad lol
Perhaps mate.

But it makes/keeps me happy

Not finishing there though...
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post #6977 of 7058 Old 06-13-2014, 12:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stu03 View Post
Doubt it. All its doing is lowering VOL SUS and ABL.

Anyway if referring to the Kuro monitors for fan activation if no service remote and using the supplied remote all you have to do is press and hold the INFO button (Display) for approximately four seconds - then release and quickly press the HOME MENU button.

That takes you to the handy INTEGRATOR layer where the fan control option is.
Thanks, Stu.

I went ahead and tried Power Save 2 with an all white field and noticed a dramatic reduction in panel brightness and a reduction (but not elimination) in buzzing. The reduction in buzzing was not worth the change in picture.
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post #6978 of 7058 Old 06-13-2014, 01:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stu03 View Post
Anyway if referring to the Kuro monitors for fan activation if no service remote and using the supplied remote all you have to do is press and hold the INFO button (Display) for approximately four seconds - then release and quickly press the HOME MENU button.

That takes you to the handy INTEGRATOR layer where the fan control option is.
I didn't know about this. Where are things like this documented?
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post #6979 of 7058 Old 06-13-2014, 08:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stu03 View Post
Doubt it. All its doing is lowering VOL SUS and ABL.

Anyway if referring to the Kuro monitors for fan activation if no service remote and using the supplied remote all you have to do is press and hold the INFO button (Display) for approximately four seconds - then release and quickly press the HOME MENU button.

That takes you to the handy INTEGRATOR layer where the fan control option is.
I activated the fan using the integrator menu. Figured it cant do any harm - in fact, it might lengthen the life of the display / electronics. Im surpised my fan has never kicked in even after 12 hour aging sessions in which the room gets uncomfortably hot.

The whirring sound from the fan isnt too bad... certainly not as bad as the fan noise of my brothers vt60.

Is it normal for my picture presets to reset after exiting the integrator menu? Im aging with dnices sports settings and realize the preset reverted to factory defaults after exiting the integrator menu.
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post #6980 of 7058 Old 06-14-2014, 03:56 AM
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I activated the fan using the integrator menu. Figured it cant do any harm - in fact, it might lengthen the life of the display / electronics. Im surpised my fan has never kicked in even after 12 hour aging sessions in which the room gets uncomfortably hot.

The whirring sound from the fan isnt too bad... certainly not as bad as the fan noise of my brothers vt60.

Is it normal for my picture presets to reset after exiting the integrator menu? Im aging with dnices sports settings and realize the preset reverted to factory defaults after exiting the integrator menu.
Unfortunately it is normal.

But the good thing about the integrator menu is you can calibrate all your av modes (in) under picture settings - and the integrator saves them permanently until changed again under picture settings in the past integrator menu. And when going back into the usual AV modes when you press (manual) colour and colour management - it automatically puts back what your settings are/were in the integrator menu. It's available for all AV modes - (even) 'Dynamic' mode can be calibrated in there.

In regard to power save mode 2 - i noticed as i'm sure others have is PWM noise is more prominent. Power save mode 1 very slight but on either mode it only noticeable from 3ft and under. Best to leave it on standard where it's sterile looking if fed clean power, calibrated and fabulous material if the material allows even with nose up at screen

Also i have noticed very rarely on PSM2 that the odd misfires can be visible - perhaps (imo) due to an under-driving of perhaps vol sustain. Others have noticed this too in the past on untouched Kuro's also from older reading.

Like you say leaving the fans on won't do any harm. I have just left mine on constantly since i ran the 500M with D-Nice's ageing settings last summer.

Doesn't seem to matter how long the panel is running - it keeps the Y board and X board areas cool to the touch and the plate area above the PSU in the middle luke warm.

Will without doubt keep the major power components going for a long time. I also read recently about the importance of keeping plasma displays running cool as if they overheat (components) it can cause voltage fluctuations of between 2V and 5V - which could be enough to make things go wonky perhaps.

These fans in the Kuros are very effective undoubtedly

Last edited by Stu03; 06-14-2014 at 04:04 AM.
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post #6981 of 7058 Old 06-14-2014, 03:57 AM
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I didn't know about this. Where are things like this documented?
It's in the KRPM manual user/owner manual bud. Couple of nice tricks in the integrator layers
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post #6982 of 7058 Old 06-15-2014, 04:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by makaveddie81 View Post
I activated the fan using the integrator menu. Figured it cant do any harm - in fact, it might lengthen the life of the display / electronics. Im surpised my fan has never kicked in even after 12 hour aging sessions in which the room gets uncomfortably hot.

The whirring sound from the fan isnt too bad... certainly not as bad as the fan noise of my brothers vt60.

Is it normal for my picture presets to reset after exiting the integrator menu? Im aging with dnices sports settings and realize the preset reverted to factory defaults after exiting the integrator menu.
Unfortunately it is normal.

But the good thing about the integrator menu is you can calibrate all your av modes (in) under picture settings - and the integrator saves them permanently until changed again under picture settings in the past integrator menu. And when going back into the usual AV modes when you press (manual) colour and colour management - it automatically puts back what your settings are/were in the integrator menu. It's available for all AV modes - (even) 'Dynamic' mode can be calibrated in there.

In regard to power save mode 2 - i noticed as i'm sure others have is PWM noise is more prominent. Power save mode 1 very slight but on either mode it only noticeable from 3ft and under. Best to leave it on standard where it's sterile looking if fed clean power, calibrated and fabulous material if the material allows even with nose up at screen

Also i have noticed very rarely on PSM2 that the odd misfires can be visible - perhaps (imo) due to an under-driving of perhaps vol sustain. Others have noticed this too in the past on untouched Kuro's also from older reading.

Like you say leaving the fans on won't do any harm. I have just left mine on constantly since i ran the 500M with D-Nice's ageing settings last summer.

Doesn't seem to matter how long the panel is running - it keeps the Y board and X board areas cool to the touch and the plate area above the PSU in the middle luke warm.

Will without doubt keep the major power components going for a long time. I also read recently about the importance of keeping plasma displays running cool as if they overheat (components) it can cause voltage fluctuations of between 2V and 5V - which could be enough to make things go wonky perhaps.

These fans in the Kuros are very effective undoubtedly
The back panel area that covers the two large capacitors in the power supply gets extremely hot on my reset 101FD. I never touched that area until after I reset, so not sure if its normal. The fans have never kicked in, despite that area being very hot to the touch. I wonder if the excessive heat is a result of having my VOL SUS too high (its currently at 178) as it needed to be increased to remove misfires. I could also remove all misfires by keeping VOL SUS at 128 and reducing YSUSB by 3 ticks. Not sure which method is best/cooler at this point.

I am going to continue aging the panel with fans activated and disable the fans after aging is completed. I think the fans are going to attract a lot of dust to the display's insides, similar to desktop computers. The fan on the bottom left (if looking at the back of the display) seems to be pulling cold air in, while the fan on the upper right is removing warm air. My 101fd had no dust when I removed the back panel and I'd hate for it to be a new home for dust bunnies.
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post #6983 of 7058 Old 06-17-2014, 10:17 AM
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It's in the KRPM manual user/owner manual bud. Couple of nice tricks in the integrator layers
As I was writing the question there was a nagging thought in the back of my head, "if he says it's in the manual, I'm going to feel stupid".
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post #6984 of 7058 Old 06-23-2014, 10:49 PM
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I have now created a program that allows the user to run commands on any of the below Kuro models:

101fd
141fd
500m
600m
111fd
151fd
5020
6020
Non-US model equivalents to the above

What does this mean? For starters, service menu access (by executing the proper commands) on any of the above models in one simple program.

Kuro Command Program
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post #6985 of 7058 Old 06-25-2014, 07:35 AM
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The back panel area that covers the two large capacitors in the power supply gets extremely hot on my reset 101FD. I never touched that area until after I reset, so not sure if its normal. The fans have never kicked in, despite that area being very hot to the touch. I wonder if the excessive heat is a result of having my VOL SUS too high (its currently at 178) as it needed to be increased to remove misfires. I could also remove all misfires by keeping VOL SUS at 128 and reducing YSUSB by 3 ticks. Not sure which method is best/cooler at this point.

I am going to continue aging the panel with fans activated and disable the fans after aging is completed. I think the fans are going to attract a lot of dust to the display's insides, similar to desktop computers. The fan on the bottom left (if looking at the back of the display) seems to be pulling cold air in, while the fan on the upper right is removing warm air. My 101fd had no dust when I removed the back panel and I'd hate for it to be a new home for dust bunnies.
It's normal. Plasma power supply components by default produce lots of heat, and if there was an issue it would go into automatic shutdown mode. Therefore it's better to be kept as cool as possible (normal operating temperature) for as long as possible. In my case they are staying on - period. They will attract dust inside back - but i will be re-applying Deoxit D100 every six months conditioning every electrical contact point back there so will be cleaning up any excess dust as i go. On the subject of Deoxit - i ordered some from an ebay California supplier nearly two weeks ago and i'm still waiting. Perhaps that's normal as it has to make it's way across the Atlantic to London - then up to Scotland from there.

Plasma manufacturers know fine well fans should be on but too many complaints about noises (and perhaps) knowing fine well it shortens the components lifespan which equals more money in the long run. It's all a moot point basically now though as plasma has all but had it.

Recent Panasonic consumer plasmas with their super slim backsides left the manufacturer no choice but to leave the fans on constantly regardless of how noisy. Or the failure rates due to heat stress would have been immense presumably.
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post #6986 of 7058 Old 06-25-2014, 07:36 AM
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As I was writing the question there was a nagging thought in the back of my head, "if he says it's in the manual, I'm going to feel stupid".
Lol
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post #6987 of 7058 Old 06-26-2014, 11:30 AM
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Question Power supply KRP-500A vs KRP-M any difference?

Does anybody know if the 500A and the 500M share the same power supply? I have a 500M that will not power up any more. After pressing the power button it jumps into a two times blinking red light mode.

A friend of mine has a 500A for spare parts but i can't seem to find the power supply number on the internet (500A)

The part number of the 500M power supply is : AXY 1203-A

Thanks in advance
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post #6988 of 7058 Old 06-27-2014, 06:23 AM
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Originally Posted by denon a1xva View Post
Does anybody know if the 500A and the 500M share the same power supply? I have a 500M that will not power up any more. After pressing the power button it jumps into a two times blinking red light mode.

A friend of mine has a 500A for spare parts but i can't seem to find the power supply number on the internet (500A)

The part number of the 500M power supply is : AXY 1203-A

Thanks in advance
Yep they do.

The (A) at the end of the part number is simply a part number revision.

Any revision AXY-1203 will do the job
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post #6989 of 7058 Old 06-27-2014, 11:13 AM
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Thanks a lot !!



Quote:
Originally Posted by Stu03 View Post
Yep they do.

The (A) at the end of the part number is simply a part number revision.

Any revision AXY-1203 will do the job
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post #6990 of 7058 Old 07-01-2014, 07:54 AM
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Thanks a lot !!
Did you get hold of the part ?
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