The Official Pioneer 9G North American KRP-500M / KRP-600M Owner's Discussion Pt. II - Page 234 - AVS Forum
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post #6991 of 7057 Old 07-01-2014, 11:18 PM
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Not yet. I will give an update asap, time and distance is the problem right now




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Originally Posted by Stu03 View Post
Did you get hold of the part ?
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post #6992 of 7057 Old 07-15-2014, 09:22 AM
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My KRP-600M has stopped working after a pretty severe Thunderstorm. By that I mean it turns on but flashes a message in the panel while on either input 5 or 6 (HDMI) that "No Signal Detected" The set was not turned on during the storm and I have always used surge protectors. Has anyone else ever run into this problem and/or know of the fix?
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post #6993 of 7057 Old 07-15-2014, 11:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Stickgs View Post
My KRP-600M has stopped working after a pretty severe Thunderstorm. By that I mean it turns on but flashes a message in the panel while on either input 5 or 6 (HDMI) that "No Signal Detected"
Check all the inputs.


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post #6994 of 7057 Old 07-16-2014, 07:31 PM
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Originally Posted by bodosom View Post
Check all the inputs.
Thanks for the suggestion. I systematically tried every component seperately and the 600M is working fine. The problem appears to be with my Onkyo TX-NR1007 AV Receiver's HDMI board. I can get audio out through my Blu-ray but no picture on the 600M. I get nothing, neither audio or video out from the comcast cable DVR box. After some research it appears that Onkyo has a history of bad HDMI board issues. Have contacted them to see what if anything can be done. Thanks again!
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post #6995 of 7057 Old 07-18-2014, 05:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Stickgs View Post
Thanks for the suggestion. I systematically tried every component seperately and the 600M is working fine. The problem appears to be with my Onkyo TX-NR1007 AV Receiver's HDMI board. I can get audio out through my Blu-ray but no picture on the 600M. I get nothing, neither audio or video out from the comcast cable DVR box. After some research it appears that Onkyo has a history of bad HDMI board issues. Have contacted them to see what if anything can be done. Thanks again!
Yep, my Onkyo TX-SR606's HDMI started to go out. Replaced with a Yamaha AVR and all is good again.
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post #6996 of 7057 Old 07-20-2014, 08:16 AM
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I changed the power supply (with the right tools an easy job) it took me 45 minutes, but the 500M does exactly the same: 2 blinking lights and doesn't start up.

Edit: the part number is the same (power supply 500A or M)


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Did you get hold of the part ?
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post #6997 of 7057 Old 07-20-2014, 08:28 AM
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Originally Posted by denon a1xva View Post
I changed the power supply (with the right tools an easy job) it took me 45 minutes, but the 500M does exactly the same: 2 blinking lights and doesn't start up.

Edit: the part number is the same (power supply 500A or M)
2 red or 2 blue blinks?
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post #6998 of 7057 Old 07-20-2014, 08:34 AM
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Hi Tom. 2 red blinks.

After plugging the power cord, and pressing the power button (on the panel) there is one red steady light. Then i press the power button of the remote controle, the Kuro wants to start up but enters some sort of protection mode and then i get 2 red blinks.



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2 red or 2 blue blinks?
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post #6999 of 7057 Old 07-20-2014, 08:49 AM
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Ok, try unplugging the Y DRIVE and X DRIVE assemblies from the power supply. Does the fault code change to 3,4,6,7,10 or 11? (I don't know for sure which one it will change to, but it should be one of these.)

Leave the TV unplugged for several minute before doing this. Do not disconnect/reconnect anything unless power has been off for more than a few minutes.

If it goes to one of those fault codes try with Y DRIVE only, then see if code is 3,8,10 or 11... if it goes to 2 blinks = bad YDRIVE (short at VSUS)
If it goes to 3,8,10 or 11 try with X DRIVE only, if you get 2 blinks = bad XDRIVE (short at VSUS)

If neither board eliminates 2 blinks it may be VADR short = probably dead plasma panel if this is the case (I really hope not!)

Last edited by tom669; 07-20-2014 at 09:06 AM.
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post #7000 of 7057 Old 07-20-2014, 08:58 AM
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Hi Tom, thanks again for trying to help me.

I will give it a try later this week because i dont have any more time at the moment. What i know from the previous owner ( i bought the panel damaged for 100 euro) is that before the Kuro died it started to buzz and suddenly did not want to start up any more.

This seems to be the same problem but with a different model:


http://www.avforums.com/threads/pion...nking.1542076/



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Originally Posted by tom669 View Post
Ok, try unplugging the Y DRIVE and X DRIVE assemblies from the power supply. Does the fault code change to 3,4,6,7,10 or 11? (I don't know for sure which one it will change to, but it will be one of these.)

Leave the TV unplugged for several minute before doing this. Do not disconnect/reconnect anything unless power has been off for more than a few minutes.

If it goes to one of those fault codes try with Y DRIVE only, then see if code is 3,8,10 or 11... if it goes to 2 blinks = bad YDRIVE (short at VSUS)
If it goes to 3,8,10 or 11 try with X DRIVE only, if you get 2 blinks = bad XDRIVE (short at VSUS)

If neither board eliminates 2 blinks it may be VADR short = probably dead plasma panel if this is the case (I really hope not!)

Last edited by denon a1xva; 07-20-2014 at 09:06 AM. Reason: Added some extra info
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post #7001 of 7057 Old 07-29-2014, 08:06 AM
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I have both the X board, and the Y board with me as a spare part. For now i have replaced just the X drive Assy and now the Kuro blinks 4 times. I didn't have time to change both boards.


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Originally Posted by tom669 View Post
Ok, try unplugging the Y DRIVE and X DRIVE assemblies from the power supply. Does the fault code change to 3,4,6,7,10 or 11? (I don't know for sure which one it will change to, but it should be one of these.)

Leave the TV unplugged for several minute before doing this. Do not disconnect/reconnect anything unless power has been off for more than a few minutes.

If it goes to one of those fault codes try with Y DRIVE only, then see if code is 3,8,10 or 11... if it goes to 2 blinks = bad YDRIVE (short at VSUS)
If it goes to 3,8,10 or 11 try with X DRIVE only, if you get 2 blinks = bad XDRIVE (short at VSUS)

If neither board eliminates 2 blinks it may be VADR short = probably dead plasma panel if this is the case (I really hope not!)
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post #7002 of 7057 Old 07-29-2014, 11:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by denon a1xva View Post
I have both the X board, and the Y board with me as a spare part. For now i have replaced just the X drive Assy and now the Kuro blinks 4 times. I didn't have time to change both boards.
I have replaced the power supply, the two boards and also the ac input with the filter. The 4 times blinking had to do because i forgot to reconnect a flat cable. Now after replacing i have the two times blinking led back again. What is there left to do? There are also some other boards in the tv.
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post #7003 of 7057 Old 07-29-2014, 12:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by denon a1xva View Post
I have replaced the power supply, the two boards and also the ac input with the filter. The 4 times blinking had to do because i forgot to reconnect a flat cable. Now after replacing i have the two times blinking led back again. What is there left to do? There are also some other boards in the tv.
Do you have a digital multimeter? To check voltages, rather than shot gun replacing boards, which will cost you nearly as much as a 2nd hand Kuro.
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post #7004 of 7057 Old 07-29-2014, 01:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tom669 View Post
Do you have a digital multimeter? To check voltages, rather than shot gun replacing boards, which will cost you nearly as much as a 2nd hand Kuro.

No i don't. It didn't cost me much, just a system cable and a couple of Euro's. For that money i almost have all the parts that are inside. Once i opened the Kuro up again i was like let's change these parts which i have. But there are still some boards that can be changed.
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post #7005 of 7057 Old 07-29-2014, 02:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by denon a1xva View Post
I have replaced the power supply, the two boards and also the ac input with the filter. The 4 times blinking had to do because i forgot to reconnect a flat cable. Now after replacing i have the two times blinking led back again. What is there left to do? There are also some other boards in the tv.
Have you tried clearing the shutdown and power down logs and unplugging the set for 5 minutes? This worked for me when my Kuro failed to power up after it shut down due to me over adjusting one of the pots on the power supply.

I don't recall the number of blue LED flashes, but its worth the shot.
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post #7006 of 7057 Old 07-29-2014, 02:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by denon a1xva View Post
No i don't. It didn't cost me much, just a system cable and a couple of Euro's. For that money i almost have all the parts that are inside. Once i opened the Kuro up again i was like let's change these parts which i have. But there are still some boards that can be changed.
There is a risk with swapping parts when you do not know if they are bad. On some plasmas one board can kill another. For example the bonded Y-buffer board can potentially damage the Y-drive board. That is rare, but the possibility must be considered. So I would highly suggest your acquire a meter (they can be bought for less than 8 euro) and learn how to use it. You can check for VSUS and VDA, to see if there is a panel short or Y-/X-drive short, also you can check the KNOFSAD voltages for example.
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post #7007 of 7057 Old 07-29-2014, 10:54 PM
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How do you clear the shutdown and power down logs?


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Originally Posted by makaveddie81 View Post
Have you tried clearing the shutdown and power down logs and unplugging the set for 5 minutes? This worked for me when my Kuro failed to power up after it shut down due to me over adjusting one of the pots on the power supply.

I don't recall the number of blue LED flashes, but its worth the shot.

Thanks i will give that a try!


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Originally Posted by tom669 View Post
There is a risk with swapping parts when you do not know if they are bad. On some plasmas one board can kill another. For example the bonded Y-buffer board can potentially damage the Y-drive board. That is rare, but the possibility must be considered. So I would highly suggest your acquire a meter (they can be bought for less than 8 euro) and learn how to use it. You can check for VSUS and VDA, to see if there is a panel short or Y-/X-drive short, also you can check the KNOFSAD voltages for example.
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post #7008 of 7057 Old 07-30-2014, 02:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by denon a1xva View Post
How do you clear the shutdown and power down logs?





Thanks i will give that a try!
You have to enable factory mode by issuing the FAY command, then issue the CSD and CPD commands.

If you don't have software to issue commands to your Kuro, I suggest you check out my program. The first post includes the required hardware.

Kuro Command Program
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post #7009 of 7057 Old 07-30-2014, 10:38 PM
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Thank you. I only have the "Kuro tool" written by a dutch formum member and I do have the usb-RS 232 cable. Can the software communicate with the Kuro while it's not turned on?



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Originally Posted by makaveddie81 View Post
You have to enable factory mode by issuing the FAY command, then issue the CSD and CPD commands.

If you don't have software to issue commands to your Kuro, I suggest you check out my program. The first post includes the required hardware.

Kuro Command Program
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post #7010 of 7057 Old 07-30-2014, 10:40 PM
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Thank you. I only have the "Kuro tool" written by a dutch formum member and I do have the usb-RS 232 cable. Can the software communicate with the Kuro while it's not turned on?
As long as the red led is on yes it will communicate with it.
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post #7011 of 7057 Old 08-02-2014, 09:04 AM
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I have tried the Kapture tool to see if it connects but here it doesn't. I need to select com port 13 correct?

About your new tool: sended you a pm.


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As long as the red led is on yes it will communicate with it.
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post #7012 of 7057 Old 08-02-2014, 09:34 AM
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I have tried the Kapture tool to see if it connects but here it doesn't. I need to select com port 13 correct?

About your new tool: sended you a pm.
No. You must enter the com port that your computer assigned to your usb to serial adapter (usually 3, 4 or 5). You have to go into device manager and locate your adapter to get the correct com port number, but try 3, 4 and 5.
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post #7013 of 7057 Old 08-02-2014, 10:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by makaveddie81 View Post
No. You must enter the com port that your computer assigned to your usb to serial adapter (usually 3, 4 or 5). You have to go into device manager and locate your adapter to get the correct com port number, but try 3, 4 and 5.

Thanks it did work but i must be doing something wrong because there seem to be values in the report.
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File Type: txt KRP-500M_08-02-2014_191614.txt (14.8 KB, 9 views)
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post #7014 of 7057 Old 08-02-2014, 11:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by denon a1xva View Post
Thanks it did work but i must be doing something wrong because there seem to be values in the report.
The report is empty so you might be communicating with a device other than your Kuro.

Go to device manager > ports (com&lptp) and locate your usb to serial adapter to get the right COM port.
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post #7015 of 7057 Old 08-02-2014, 11:22 AM
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It really says COM port 13 and it did run once but not anymore.






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The report is empty so you might be communicating with a device other than your Kuro.

Go to device manager > ports (com&lptp) and locate your usb to serial adapter to get the right COM port.
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post #7016 of 7057 Old 08-02-2014, 12:18 PM
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Quote:
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It really says COM port 13 and it did run once but not anymore.
What type of cable are you using?
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post #7017 of 7057 Old 08-02-2014, 11:33 PM
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I use these cables that work just fine with the Kuro tool connected to a KRP-500A/600A

https://www.mycom.nl/product/5176/ic...rial-cable-18m


http://www.falconcomputers.co.uk/hq/...ld-plated.html




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What type of cable are you using?
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post #7018 of 7057 Old 08-02-2014, 11:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by denon a1xva View Post
I use these cables that work just fine with the Kuro tool connected to a KRP-500A/600A

https://www.mycom.nl/product/5176/ic...rial-cable-18m


http://www.falconcomputers.co.uk/hq/...ld-plated.html
Are you unzipping the program before running it?

If you a 100 percent sure the cables and your adapter work with other Kuro programs and you are decompressing the file before running, then I'm afraid I can't help you.
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post #7019 of 7057 Old 08-03-2014, 01:05 AM
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Yes i did, it unzipped to an automatic.exe and a manual.exe file

I think my Kuro is really F**ked up and you helped me a lot so thanks again!!




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Are you unzipping the program before running it?

If you a 100 percent sure the cables and your adapter work with other Kuro programs and you are decompressing the file before running, then I'm afraid I can't help you.
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post #7020 of 7057 Old 08-03-2014, 01:41 AM
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I have noticed that in the last part of the report, there is something written:


37 Subcategory of 8th latest shutdown: Stop of the fan for the drive system

Could this be a fault in the Kuro? The rest of the report is empty.






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Originally Posted by makaveddie81 View Post
The report is empty so you might be communicating with a device other than your Kuro.

Go to device manager > ports (com&lptp) and locate your usb to serial adapter to get the right COM port.
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