The Official Pioneer 9G North American KRP-500M / KRP-600M Owner's Discussion Pt. II - Page 235 - AVS Forum
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post #7021 of 7057 Old 08-03-2014, 02:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by denon a1xva View Post
I have noticed that in the last part of the report, there is something written:


37 Subcategory of 8th latest shutdown: Stop of the fan for the drive system

Could this be a fault in the Kuro? The rest of the report is empty.
Interesting. So the program is talking to your Kuro and your Kuro is just responding to one command.

If you have kuro control, if you have kuro control (and it works on your tv) issue the qpd and qps commands and reply with their output.
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post #7022 of 7057 Old 08-03-2014, 02:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by denon a1xva View Post
I have noticed that in the last part of the report, there is something written:


37 Subcategory of 8th latest shutdown: Stop of the fan for the drive system

Could this be a fault in the Kuro? The rest of the report is empty.
Actually that is the shutdown log that is generated by the qsd command. So the error message that you posted might shed some light into what ails your kuro.

The program is working as intended. Your kuro is simply not responding to any commands due to its current status.
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post #7023 of 7057 Old 08-03-2014, 02:45 AM
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I have downloaded the program Kuro control, but what do you mean with "issue the gpd and gps commands" ? I only see ISF settings? Do i have to enter the commands somewhere?


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Originally Posted by makaveddie81 View Post
Interesting. So the program is talking to your Kuro and your Kuro is just responding to one command.

If you have kuro control, if you have kuro control (and it works on your tv) issue the qpd and qps commands and reply with their output.
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post #7024 of 7057 Old 08-03-2014, 02:50 AM
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I missed this post. Yes there might be a problem with a cooling fan as far as i read it.


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Originally Posted by makaveddie81 View Post
Actually that is the shutdown log that is generated by the qsd command. So the error message that you posted might shed some light into what ails your kuro.

The program is working as intended. Your kuro is simply not responding to any commands due to its current status.
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post #7025 of 7057 Old 08-03-2014, 04:36 AM
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151D - 2100 Hrs - Calibrated -
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post #7026 of 7057 Old 08-03-2014, 05:47 AM
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151D - 2100 Hrs - Calibrated -
your point is?

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post #7027 of 7057 Old 08-03-2014, 05:55 AM
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Originally Posted by craigyboy View Post
your point is?
Thts just it - 2008 - 2014 adios Kuro
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post #7028 of 7057 Old 08-03-2014, 10:08 AM
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Thts just it - 2008 - 2014 adios Kuro
Selling it or?
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post #7029 of 7057 Old 08-21-2014, 07:08 PM
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What is the reccomendation to set the color and tint when calibrating? I have read that both blue only mode and blue filters with the AVS 709 disc are not accurate. I have an i1Pro, can I use it and Calman to set the color and tint?
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post #7030 of 7057 Old 08-23-2014, 11:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Y2JDMBFAN View Post
What is the reccomendation to set the color and tint when calibrating? I have read that both blue only mode and blue filters with the AVS 709 disc are not accurate. I have an i1Pro, can I use it and Calman to set the color and tint?
Yes.


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post #7031 of 7057 Old 08-23-2014, 03:10 PM
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Originally Posted by bodosom View Post
Yes.
Any hints on which pattern or parts in Calman to use?
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post #7032 of 7057 Old 08-29-2014, 04:49 AM
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A 600M, stand, manual, remote, no speakers with one HDMI not working.
No idea of the hours. No visible image burn or red tint

.....worth $1400?


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post #7033 of 7057 Old 08-29-2014, 05:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dsskid View Post
A 600M, stand, manual, remote, no speakers with one HDMI not working.
No idea of the hours. No visible image burn or red tint

.....worth $1400?
I bought me the 500m for 1,000 euro a week ago. No stand and no speakers. Not much usage, less than 2000 hours i think. No burn-in or red tint. So i was in a similar boat.

Anyway it is very risky to buy a Pioneer Plasma since it is five years out of bussiness and lots of their Plasma's have lots of hours on them. I would only buy one if it has less than 5000 hours, no visible image burn or red tint. One inactive HDMI input is less relevant imo. To me $1,400 sounds like a good deal, more than 5000 hours is a dealbreaker for me.

Last edited by 8mile13; 08-29-2014 at 05:58 AM.
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post #7034 of 7057 Old 08-29-2014, 06:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dsskid View Post
A 600M, stand, manual, remote, no speakers with one HDMI not working.
No idea of the hours. No visible image burn or red tint

.....worth $1400?

You buying or selling?

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post #7035 of 7057 Old 08-29-2014, 07:30 AM
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Buying


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Displays are like 100% cotton t-shirts. Always buy a size larger than you think you'll need, as they tend to shrink over time.
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post #7036 of 7057 Old 08-29-2014, 09:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8mile13 View Post
I bought me the 500m for 1,000 euro a week ago. No stand and no speakers. Not much usage, less than 2000 hours i think. No burn-in or red tint. So i was in a similar boat.

Anyway it is very risky to buy a Pioneer Plasma since it is five years out of bussiness and lots of their Plasma's have lots of hours on them. I would only buy one if it has less than 5000 hours, no visible image burn or red tint. One inactive HDMI input is less relevant imo. To me $1,400 sounds like a good deal, more than 5000 hours is a dealbreaker for me.
5000 hours is nothing, wouldn't worry about that,its the image that counts

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post #7037 of 7057 Old 08-29-2014, 11:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by craigyboy View Post
5000 hours is nothing, wouldn't worry about that,its the image that counts
Well. It is my money. I would not feel comfortable buying a five year old heavy usage TV..
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post #7038 of 7057 Old 08-30-2014, 05:41 AM
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please help with this question.

When adjusting brightness it is helpful but not essential if your display can display below black when using a test disc.
how do you display below black on a krp-500/ krp-600m. even if i go below 0 on brightness, i don't see below black bars on test discs.
My real old panasonic plasma could easily do this.
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post #7039 of 7057 Old 08-30-2014, 06:00 AM
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Originally Posted by umass66 View Post
how do you display below black on a krp-500/ krp-600m.
Not to agree with your premise but the simplest way to see below 16 is to change quantization to IT. The difficulty should be on a par with your "real old panasonic".


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post #7040 of 7057 Old 08-30-2014, 09:53 AM
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Not to agree with your premise but the simplest way to see below 16 is to change quantization to IT. The difficulty should be on a par with your "real old panasonic".
could you explain above in less technical language. thanks.
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post #7041 of 7057 Old 08-30-2014, 10:25 AM
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could you explain above in less technical language. thanks.
Change the (HDMI) input signal type from 3 (RGB16-235) to 4 (RGB0-255).

However if you're just trying to set the black-level ("brightness") without regard to overall gamma then get a test pattern with 1%, 2%, 3%, 4% etc. bars and use the difference between 0% and 1% or 2%.

I'd suggest the Spears and Munsil disk (either edition) but in any case you should read their adjustment documents.
E.g. http://www.spearsandmunsil.com/portf...tness-control/

Poynton's black level note is also useful background although, strictly speaking, it's about analog not digital devices.

Greater depth regarding all this and more can be found in Poynton's columns for SpectraCal.



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post #7042 of 7057 Old 08-30-2014, 04:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by umass66 View Post
please help with this question.

When adjusting brightness it is helpful but not essential if your display can display below black when using a test disc.
how do you display below black on a krp-500/ krp-600m. even if i go below 0 on brightness, i don't see below black bars on test discs.
My real old panasonic plasma could easily do this.
Using RGB16/235 will give you the best image quality and it's neither helpful or essential to see below (16) black, KRP's are usually 0 or +1 for brightness.
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post #7043 of 7057 Old 08-31-2014, 11:23 AM
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I have a sony str dn1040 receiver and would like to know if I can force feed the rgb 16-235 signal type. I have the monitor currently set to auto and when I use my pc the picture is washed out unless I switch it to rgb 16-235. So I'm wondering if there's a way to set the actual receiver to rgb 16-235.
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post #7044 of 7057 Old 08-31-2014, 12:14 PM
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... if there's a way to set the actual receiver to rgb 16-235.
You have to force at the KRP. That's the "bug". See the FAQ for more information.


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post #7045 of 7057 Old 08-31-2014, 02:33 PM
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When I set the krp to 16-235 the tv is way off I think? I'll have to wait till I get back home
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post #7046 of 7057 Old 09-01-2014, 04:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bodosom View Post
You have to force at the KRP. That's the "bug". See the FAQ for more information.
can you avoid the bug by setting the blu ray player to 16-235 rgb and the krp-500m to 16-235 rgb
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post #7047 of 7057 Old 09-01-2014, 06:50 AM
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Colorspace issues? See the FAQ.

Quote:
Originally Posted by umass66 View Post
can you avoid the bug by setting the blu ray player to 16-235 rgb and the krp-500m to 16-235 rgb
Yes. There are various choices, the optimal one depends on the upstream (stb/player/avr) capabilities.


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post #7048 of 7057 Old 09-04-2014, 06:53 PM
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Yes. There are various choices, the optimal one depends on the upstream (stb/player/avr) capabilities.
The bug never seemed to affect me unless I played my PS3, then I had to make sure the PS3 was set to Full or Limited (can't remember which one).
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post #7049 of 7057 Old 09-05-2014, 07:21 AM
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Will the 6020 speakers fit/work on a 600M?


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post #7050 of 7057 Old 09-05-2014, 08:35 AM
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I had to make sure the PS3 was set to Full or Limited (can't remember which one).
RGB input has two quantization choices. CE (16-235) or IT (0-255). If the quantization bit isn't set the display manufacturer picks one. Typically you'd pick CE if was HDMI, IT if it was VGA and flip a coin if it was DVI. For the 9G monitors Pioneer opted to always select IT. So if both ends are AUTO and the source sends RGB-CE but doesn't set the quant. bit then you get a color-space mismatch and grey blacks.

So don't use AUTO or set the quant. bit when sending RGB-CE and (almost) nobody sets the quant. bit.

The problem is some devices (e.g. DirecTV HR-24) will only send RGB-CE and some devices will only send YUV flavors. I previously dealt with this by having a dual output AVR, by setting one HDMI port to AUTO, the other to RGB-CE and using remote control macros to to match everything up. Currently I have no* RGB only devices so all sources are set to YUV and I only use the AUTO input.

*Okay so that's a lie but just barely.


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