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post #10951 of 11930 Old 10-17-2013, 11:00 AM
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Those are empty connectors and crimps. But that was more of an offer for the individuals who want to go the DIY route.

Panasonic plasma black level restoration
Step-by-step guide for restoring the initial MLL on a Panasonic G10 plasma
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post #10952 of 11930 Old 10-17-2013, 03:01 PM
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Originally Posted by mironto View Post

Those are empty connectors and crimps. But that was more of an offer for the individuals who want to go the DIY route.

 

well until mine is ready for mass production, my approach is DIY too!  :p   But yes, I knew you were offering to others wanting to go your arduino route.

 

cheers,

..dane

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post #10953 of 11930 Old 10-18-2013, 07:31 AM
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I have a 58V10 and a 50V10 so I was interested in this fix. Local Radio Shack had the Arduino Uno Rev 3, I had the USB cable. It'll be a while until I will be able to try it on a TV, I was able to make the Blink example program work and edited the values to alter the blink cycle. I have a breadboard and resistors, so I bought some of the EEPROM chips from Mouser that mironto used in his test bed and will mock that up when the chips come (they were only $.91 ea, so I bought a few extra). I want to make sure I have a good handle on reading and writing and loading the script before I go for the TV. I also bought some m/f jumpers like pittsoccer33 used, but a little longer, on the Mouser order. I'll just label the ends and leave them in place, hopefully.

So thanks to all the guys who have helped make this possible. This should really help my only gripe about a couple of otherwise nice TVs. I'll let you know how I make out when I apply the fix.
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post #10954 of 11930 Old 10-18-2013, 02:30 PM
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Exciting PMCv1 Update!  (link to the full update)

 

For those of you not following PMCv1, it's a self-contained plug-in device I'm developing for these plasmas to reset their black levels automagically.

 

In short, PMCv1 is fully operational. Additionally, I have added two very specific polls related to some additional information presented in the update. If any of you following the PMCv1 is interested, please check it out and "vote."  Thanks.

 

edit to add-- This does not mean PMCv1 is ready for sale; but it means it's getting a lot closer.  I am currently working with several suppliers for some components (like the connector) pricing and availability, and I have some internal testing I want to do for at least a week. But a transition from development to testing and pre-production is still a very significant step.  I will continue updating my site as things progress.

 

cheers,

..dane

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post #10955 of 11930 Old 10-18-2013, 04:50 PM
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Dane,

First, let me give a huge THANK YOU for your expertise and hard work! I read the procedure on your web page, and I have one question. Is it possible to put a flashing LED or something on the unit to show it is working? I ask because there have been a few times when my V10 would turn off by itself a few seconds after turning it on (I guess there is a Panny power switch problem?) It would be nice to be able to tell the difference, as in both cases the screen will remain blank. Maybe have the LED stop blinking when it is safe to turn the TV off manually and then back on? Just a suggestion... and put me down for one...! biggrin.gif

Peace... Vader
 

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post #10956 of 11930 Old 10-18-2013, 05:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by audiodane View Post

Exciting PMCv1 Update!  (link to the full update)

For those of you not following PMCv1, it's a self-contained plug-in device I'm developing for these plasmas to reset their black levels automagically.

In short, PMCv1 is fully operational. Additionally, I have added two very specific polls related to some additional information presented in the update. If any of you following the PMCv1 is interested, please check it out and "vote."  Thanks.

..dane

YOU ROCK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I want one ASAP!!!!! biggrin.gif:D:D:D
I am able to get the plastic door cover off the back of the TV and expose the "pin connector plug in" without removing it from the wall. I should have no trouble plugging this widget in I assume then. Am I correct????
I am avoiding taking the display down off the wall at all costs.....thanks

Main HT Room: Panny TC-P65VT60 (calibrated by Chad B), Denon AVR-4311, Comcast X1 DVR, Apple TV3, Sony BDP-S5100, Speakers: Ascend Acoustics Sierra Towers, Sierra Horizon and HTM-200SE, Dual Power Sound Audio XV15 Subwoofers
Basement HT Room: Panny TC-P58V10 (Black Level Restored!), Denon AVR-E300, Comcast X1 STB, Sony BDP-S590, Speakers: Ascend Acoustics CBM-170SE (L/R), Ascend Acoustics CMT-340SE-C, Wave Crest HVL-1 (Surr) and Dual Power Sound Audio XV15 Subwoofers
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post #10957 of 11930 Old 10-18-2013, 08:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Vader424242 View Post

Dane,

First, let me give a huge THANK YOU for your expertise and hard work! I read the procedure on your web page, and I have one question. Is it possible to put a flashing LED or something on the unit to show it is working? I ask because there have been a few times when my V10 would turn off by itself a few seconds after turning it on (I guess there is a Panny power switch problem?) It would be nice to be able to tell the difference, as in both cases the screen will remain blank. Maybe have the LED stop blinking when it is safe to turn the TV off manually and then back on? Just a suggestion... and put me down for one...! biggrin.gif

 

Hmm, that's a really good idea.  I am currently literally 99.06% full though.  I have worked hard to optimize it but still log the usage during every power-on and power-off.  The board does have an LED in place that currently just stays illuminated to indicate the system is functional.  A blink code to indicate status however is a really useful thing to add.  Next time I sit down with it, I will think hard how I can work that in.. I had thought of blink-codes a couple weeks back but honestly working through the panel eeprom write-protection modes consumed much of my recent efforts and I completely forgot about LED blink modes..  So thanks for the idea/reminder.

 

I'm not aware of the switch problem.  How often does it occur?  What are the symptoms?  I would like to ensure it doesn't interfere with PMCv1 operation.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gov View Post

YOU ROCK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I want one ASAP!!!!! biggrin.gif:D:D:D
I am able to get the plastic door cover off the back of the TV and expose the "pin connector plug in" without removing it from the wall. I should have no trouble plugging this widget in I assume then. Am I correct????
I am avoiding taking the display down off the wall at all costs.....thanks

 

I have mine mounted on the wall using a Monoprice "low profile tilt mount."  It's not the lowest of profiles because it still has a tilt mount, but you can see in some of the pictures on my blog site about how far it is off the wall.  I knew exactly what to feel around for and how to align it and it took me a good full five minutes to install it the second time.  (The first time I got lucky and nailed it in under a minute.)  It can be tricky.  But with that said, my version has the full 20 wires dangling as well as a USB logging adapter and scope probes and everything else, and it isn't insulated from short circuiting to the TV.  The final PMCv1 should be substantially easier to handle, and insulated to protect against short circuits.

 

SO, while it's entirely "possible" to do this, it may take some fiddling.. A small mirror may help too.  I will be writing up a small installation guide with some pictures (orientation matters) that should help, but in the end installing on a mounted TV means getting into a small space at an odd angle.  And if you have large hands and fingers, it may be more difficult.  That said, 10 minutes of fiddling is certainly worth saving taking the TV off the wall. I myself haven't taken the TV off the wall at all through this development effort.  :)

 

 

By the way, while I have the platform.. Big shouts out to miro and clktmr and, gosh, I'm drawing blanks now, for all THEIR hard work. They pioneered the approach, and proved it successful.  I have done an entirely different set of work in regards to timing and automating a solution that lets go of the TV until only those few times that it needs to make  an update. But in regards to the actual procedure to reset the black levels, I'm simply leveraging what has already been done. I myself have referenced miro's site quite extensively early on. It's so easy to follow and much more concise and un-cluttered than this thread.  I encourage everyone to donate to his site as well.  He did this with no intention of making money, and has gone to extensive lengths to make the process easy to understand and follow, and is continually refining it to make it moreso. PMCv1 will certainly not ship until a proper "credits" writeup is ready to include as part of the installation documentation.

 

cheers,

..dane

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post #10958 of 11930 Old 10-18-2013, 09:04 PM
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Originally Posted by audiodane View Post

I'm not aware of the switch problem.  How often does it occur?  What are the symptoms?  I would like to ensure it doesn't interfere with PMCv1 operation

I think it has happened to me all of 3-4 times since I bought the set (March 2009), so very rarely. When it did happen, the red LED would flash, until I shut down by holding the power switch in for several seconds (forced shutdown?). Then after I turned it back on everything was OK again. In hindsight, the set behaved like the power-up sequence got confused, and I just needed to clear it (I hope). I went looking for the threads I thought I remembered, and found that there were several addressing a complete failure within the first couple of years, so that is probably what I was thinking of. If we made it this far without failure, I think we are in the clear... The main thing I am concerned about is inadvertently turning the set off before your device finishes it's work... would that mess anything up (like turning something off in the middle of a firmware update)?

Peace... Vader
 

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post #10959 of 11930 Old 10-18-2013, 09:27 PM
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This is even better now that I shouldn't have to take the display off the wall!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! This widget can't get here soon enough! A huge thanks again, Dane biggrin.gif

Main HT Room: Panny TC-P65VT60 (calibrated by Chad B), Denon AVR-4311, Comcast X1 DVR, Apple TV3, Sony BDP-S5100, Speakers: Ascend Acoustics Sierra Towers, Sierra Horizon and HTM-200SE, Dual Power Sound Audio XV15 Subwoofers
Basement HT Room: Panny TC-P58V10 (Black Level Restored!), Denon AVR-E300, Comcast X1 STB, Sony BDP-S590, Speakers: Ascend Acoustics CBM-170SE (L/R), Ascend Acoustics CMT-340SE-C, Wave Crest HVL-1 (Surr) and Dual Power Sound Audio XV15 Subwoofers
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post #10960 of 11930 Old 10-18-2013, 09:30 PM
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I've been wondering that myself.  I'm thinking we'll be fine.  PMCv1 checks the timecode in bytes 1-2 of the panel eeprom, and if it's higher than ~150hrs, it goes through the clear process.  If that process fails, then the next time the TV turns on, the PMCv1 will follow the exact same procedure.  Read the value, check it, and if greater than ~150 hours, go through the clear process. So if the clear "doesn't take," then it'll occur on the next power cycle.  And with that said, even holding down the power button for a couple seconds is way more than the PMCv1 needs.  In my writeup I said to wait 10 seconds.  That's just for the people that count really fast.  In reality, it occurs within the first 1 second or so of pushing the TV power button.  I'd have to go back and measure it again to be sure, but it's really fast.  If operating as expected, it will have been done "AGES" before you even realize it did anything.

 

..dane

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post #10961 of 11930 Old 10-18-2013, 09:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Gov View Post

This is even better now that I shouldn't have to take the display off the wall!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! This widget can't get here soon enough! A huge thanks again, Dane biggrin.gif


Ha ha ha..  thanks Gov.  I'm sorry, but I cannot rush this.  When I rush things, I make mistakes.  I cannot afford to make a mistake here and mess up someone else's TV.  I would feel so horrible if that happened.

 

Trying to think about how I can work in a blink pattern to the watchdog timer right now..  I have a few ideas..  Small, simple, yet functional is key.  It'll be kind of a wonky implementation, but I think I can make it work.  My logging uart is wonky too, but it takes up so little code space, I'm pretty proud of it.

 

But more importantly, Indiana Jones and the Raiders of the Lost Ark is on cable tonight.. but I'm thinking about LEDs during the commercials at least.. :)

 

..dane

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post #10962 of 11930 Old 10-18-2013, 09:43 PM
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Originally Posted by audiodane View Post

I've been wondering that myself.  I'm thinking we'll be fine.  PMCv1 checks the timecode in bytes 1-2 of the panel eeprom, and if it's higher than ~150hrs, it goes through the clear process.  If that process fails, then the next time the TV turns on, the PMCv1 will follow the exact same procedure.  Read the value, check it, and if greater than ~150 hours, go through the clear process. So if the clear "doesn't take," then it'll occur on the next power cycle.  And with that said, even holding down the power button for a couple seconds is way more than the PMCv1 needs.  In my writeup I said to wait 10 seconds.  That's just for the people that count really fast.  In reality, it occurs within the first 1 second or so of pushing the TV power button.  I'd have to go back and measure it again to be sure, but it's really fast.  If operating as expected, it will have been done "AGES" before you even realize it did anything.

..dane

That is absolutely awesome! Like Gov, I am biting at the proverbial bit to get one of these!....biggrin.gif

Peace... Vader
 

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One sub to rumble them all. One sub to shake them. One sub to humble them all. And in the darkness break them....

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post #10963 of 11930 Old 10-18-2013, 09:59 PM
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A humongous THANK YOU to mironto and the other members who spent the time investigating and developing this solution for restoring the black levels on these Panasonic models. I bought a 54G10 early on back in June of 2009. After about 300 hours of usage I had it professionally calibrated by Chad B, and I was thrilled with this TV for awhile.. Then the rising black levels began and like most everyone else I was disappointed (and somewhat disgusted by Panasonic's response to the matter calling it a "feature" instead of a "flaw"). Regardless, I lived with it and still enjoyed the TV and the picture.........but the loss of the deep inky blacks still bothered me.

I was almost ready to go ahead and buy a new plasma model, but still had reservations about doing that as I liked the G10 in every way except for the black levels. I just happened to come here to this thread again and read all the latest information on a fix that would reset the hours that the TV uses as part of it's algorithm for adjusting the mll. I read mironto's guide a couple times, and then went to Radio Shack tonight to pickup the Arduino Uno Rev 3, as well as the Male to Female jumper cables that were posted a few threads up to connect the board to the service connector on the TV (I think it was a member named pittsoccer who posted the Radio Shack catalog numbers.....so thank you for that bit of information). I took my time to make sure I had everything setup correctly, and I was able to do the reset without any problems (other than having to reinstall the Windows device driver for the Arduino board, as it did not install the first time).

I honestly feel like I have a new TV now, even though it is physically the same exact unit. The black levels are back to where they were originally as far as I can tell, and I am ecstatic about it. The pictures that mironto has at the end of his guide showing the same screens after increasing hours on the TV, and then a final picture after the reset occurs are dead-on accurate of what a person can expect when doing this reset. The dark scene he uses from one of the Batman movies is probably the best example....just pull the last two pictures up in separate windows side by side on your monitor and you will easily see the huge difference pre and post reset. It's quite amazing IMO the difference.

Thanks to all again.....I am signing off to go and watch more content on my "new" TV.
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post #10964 of 11930 Old 10-19-2013, 12:00 PM
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Are the 46" PZ80 and 42" PZ80 affected by this?
I have one with 8,000 hrs and one with 4,500 hrs and black level is worse than a new LCD!
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post #10965 of 11930 Old 10-19-2013, 01:36 PM
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According to other people's findings yes, they are.

Panasonic plasma black level restoration
Step-by-step guide for restoring the initial MLL on a Panasonic G10 plasma
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post #10966 of 11930 Old 10-19-2013, 05:05 PM
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According to other people's findings yes, they are.

Looks like I have a project to do then!

I did tweak my 42" PZ80 black levels by voltage adjustment seen here http://www.avsforum.com/t/1472893/black-level-tweaking-2008-pannys

And it looked nice! But I decided to reverse it because of the higher maldischarge (dead pixels) could be more noticed in my closer viewing position (ended up putting it at the end of my bed...)

And I swear it started drifting and getting worse but I can't prove it without a light meter.

If I can get it with software tweaks and no maldischarge I'll be onto a winner.
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post #10967 of 11930 Old 10-20-2013, 07:44 AM
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haha, so after all these years you guys finally got a fix smile.gif
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post #10968 of 11930 Old 10-20-2013, 12:18 PM
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haha, so after all these years you guys finally got a fix smile.gif

haha, looks like it wink.gif

Main HT Room: Panny TC-P65VT60 (calibrated by Chad B), Denon AVR-4311, Comcast X1 DVR, Apple TV3, Sony BDP-S5100, Speakers: Ascend Acoustics Sierra Towers, Sierra Horizon and HTM-200SE, Dual Power Sound Audio XV15 Subwoofers
Basement HT Room: Panny TC-P58V10 (Black Level Restored!), Denon AVR-E300, Comcast X1 STB, Sony BDP-S590, Speakers: Ascend Acoustics CBM-170SE (L/R), Ascend Acoustics CMT-340SE-C, Wave Crest HVL-1 (Surr) and Dual Power Sound Audio XV15 Subwoofers
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post #10969 of 11930 Old 10-21-2013, 07:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by audiodane View Post

Exciting PMCv1 Update!  (link to the full update)

For those of you not following PMCv1, it's a self-contained plug-in device I'm developing for these plasmas to reset their black levels automagically.

In short, PMCv1 is fully operational. Additionally, I have added two very specific polls related to some additional information presented in the update. If any of you following the PMCv1 is interested, please check it out and "vote."  Thanks.

edit to add-- This does not mean PMCv1 is ready for sale; but it means it's getting a lot closer.  I am currently working with several suppliers for some components (like the connector) pricing and availability, and I have some internal testing I want to do for at least a week. But a transition from development to testing and pre-production is still a very significant step.  I will continue updating my site as things progress.

cheers,
..dane

Dane, you are the best!!!
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post #10970 of 11930 Old 10-22-2013, 07:41 AM
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That is absolutely awesome! Like Gov, I am biting at the proverbial bit to get one of these!....biggrin.gif

 

Me too! :-)

 

I'm having to say "no" many nights to the equipment sitting under our TV.  It sits there, calling me..  I think I have a very "code efficient" way to implement multiple blinking patterns, but I haven't been able to sit down and try it yet.  There is one byte of log data I can still trim too which gives room for just a couple more bytes of instruction (yes, it's that tight).  I also thought the other night, while driving home, a way to trim a few more instructions.. Tonight or tomorrow night I'm hoping to sit down and try some stuff.

 

I am also looking into a larger device, but that would require more effort on assembly.  There are pros and cons that I will be considering very shortly.  From another forum search I stumbled across a custom PCB house that is loads cheaper than I've seen before (Futurlec), so I am also weighing a fully custom design with a larger chip.  This gives me a clean slate to put on there exactly what I want, but the only way to keep costs low is still to make a large initial order (costing me several hundred dollars up-front) and then hoping I sell enough units to recover my expense.  Unfortunately my blog site is not getting enough traffic to convince me that there are enough PMCv1 customers to devote such a large up-front expense. What seems more likely is that I'll start with a small run of hand-made v1's as the design currently exists, and if all of those sell, then go back and consider a custom design.  I don't want to have to raise the price again.  The connector costs are already killing me (again, unless I buy 100 at a time). 

 

In the end, I have to remain practical.  What *I* want as an engineer isn't necessarily what everybody else wants.  But, first things first..  blinking LEDs.  That's next on my list.

 

cheers,

..dane

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post #10971 of 11930 Old 10-22-2013, 10:07 AM
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Thanks Dane. This is great work! Im patiently waiting for the finished product.
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post #10972 of 11930 Old 10-23-2013, 08:07 AM
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Just a short update.. so I'll post it here..  I have some basic blinking in place now, and I also had a chance to work on code cleanup.  It looks so much better..  Properly organized now.  Still need to go through and verify code comments are still valid, but having organized code makes a dramatic difference to finalizing a project and making sure it's maintainable in the long run (in case I need to re-visit code in a few months and have no clue what I was originally thinking)..  I also thought about a neat way to potentially make a 'fancy' blink ..  For now I just have a slow blink and a fast blink, but if you only see one blink pattern, how do you know if it's fast or slow? (You could switch between normal and undo modes to see the two blink speeds, but that's just a hassle.)

 

Logging had to come out (just wouldn't fit), but I realized it's mainly for me.  For everyone else, understandable blinks are far more important.  I also added a read-back verification stage, just as one more layer of precaution against messing up someone's set. It's not entirely done yet, but basically after I complete a panel eeprom update, I go back and re-read what I just attempted to write.  If it doesn't match, I will try again.

 

I have some things that need to get done tonight around the house, but if I'm lucky I'll have time to sit back down and try the pattern idea and continue cleaning up the code and tie up some loose ends on the read-back verification, and start to get ready for an alpha build.

 

cheers,

..dane

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post #10973 of 11930 Old 10-23-2013, 01:01 PM
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^^^^Thanks for your updates!!!! I will admit that much of what you post about this I am ignorant of, but I look forward to reading about your progress! I am looking forward to a post of yours soon that will say THEY ARE READY FOR SHIPPING!!!!! biggrin.gif
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post #10974 of 11930 Old 10-24-2013, 07:32 AM
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Originally Posted by audiodane View Post
 

Hmm..  Now I'm going to have to go through more service manuals to see if the part numbers are changing.  I decided on A17/20pin for convenience of 3.3V, but if different models have different connectors, that's not a good thing for a "unified solution".  I'll have to check each one and develop a spreadsheet on which models list which part numbers..  <sigh..>

 

..dane

You wrote, you chose A17/20 pins connector, because of 3.3V. In P50G10 model there is 3.3V at pin no 2. But in others TV’s (for example P50VT20) pin no 2 is described as FACT_SDBOOT. Following the thread to the end – there is also 3.3V (through some resistors). But it is not pure STB3.3V. The pin is connected to ADIN2 System MPU too. I hope you know about this.

Fortunately pins 8, 9 (for A18) and 5, 6 (for A17) remain unchanged – it is IIC BUS for panel eeprom. I hope it is Panasonic’s standard. But I’m not sure. We have to check it.

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post #10975 of 11930 Old 10-24-2013, 09:22 AM
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Hi guys, firstly thanks to everyone that has contributed in finding a solution to Panasonic's design flaw.

I have purchased and put together everything from Mironto's blog site and was able to read from my TV's chip. My TV is a TC-P65S1 that I purchased in the US around Oct. 2009. I haven't set everything to zero yet because I am waiting to spend some quality time with a nice dark movie to see what difference it makes.

In the meantime, can someone help me decipher my runtime and on/off cycles from the data I pulled? Here it is:

0x01 0x0D 0xBD 0x3D 0xB0 0x09 0x9D 0xFF 0xFF 0xFF
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post #10976 of 11930 Old 10-24-2013, 09:37 AM
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Originally Posted by keramt View Post
 

You wrote, you chose A17/20 pins connector, because of 3.3V. In P50G10 model there is 3.3V at pin no 2. But in others TV’s (for example P50VT20) pin no 2 is described as FACT_SDBOOT. Following the thread to the end – there is also 3.3V (through some resistors). But it is not pure STB3.3V. The pin is connected to ADIN2 System MPU too. I hope you know about this.

Fortunately pins 8, 9 (for A18) and 5, 6 (for A17) remain unchanged – it is IIC BUS for panel eeprom. I hope it is Panasonic’s standard. But I’m not sure. We have to check it.

 

Hmm, no, I did not know this. I do not have service manuals for so many models.  I need to start gathering them, but have not yet.  If you (or anyone else) has a service manual, I can give you an email address over PM to send it to.  I've been focusing on the device and getting it rock solid.  Soon I will be working on an initial alpha test run, so the time to research service manuals is coming fast.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by jmvar View Post

Hi guys, firstly thanks to everyone that has contributed in finding a solution to Panasonic's design flaw.

I have purchased and put together everything from Mironto's blog site and was able to read from my TV's chip. My TV is a TC-P65S1 that I purchased in the US around Oct. 2009. I haven't set everything to zero yet because I am waiting to spend some quality time with a nice dark movie to see what difference it makes.

In the meantime, can someone help me decipher my runtime and on/off cycles from the data I pulled? Here it is:

0x01 0x0D 0xBD 0x3D 0xB0 0x09 0x9D 0xFF 0xFF 0xFF

 

byte 0 is unknown (to me at least)

bytes 1-2 are hours

bytes 3-4 are believed to also be additional hour data (in some format)

bytes 5-6 are cycles

 

Bytes 1-2 are 0x0dbd, or 3,517 hours, plus some amount which are in bytes 3-4 (0x3db0).  Bytes 5-6 are 0x099D, or 2,461 cycles.  :)

 

..dane

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post #10977 of 11930 Old 10-24-2013, 09:39 AM
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Glad it works on your S1 model. You have over 3517 hours (my guess would be 3581h) and 2461 on/off cycles on your set. Could you please check through the service menu the actual hours anddo another reading from EEPROM as closely as possible to service menu readout?

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Step-by-step guide for restoring the initial MLL on a Panasonic G10 plasma
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post #10978 of 11930 Old 10-24-2013, 12:26 PM
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Glad it works on your S1 model. You have over 3517 hours (my guess would be 3581h) and 2461 on/off cycles on your set. Could you please check through the service menu the actual hours anddo another reading from EEPROM as closely as possible to service menu readout?

I watched a couple of hours last night after the info from the chip was pulled.

Taken from the service menu:

TIme: 04066:45, count: 2468

I used this procedure to pull up the service menu:

http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/hdtv-video-displays-processors/23475-how-check-hours-used-your-plasma.html

I will report back on how the reset goes, thanks for your help and putting all of this info together.
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post #10979 of 11930 Old 10-25-2013, 04:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmvar View Post

I watched a couple of hours last night after the info from the chip was pulled.

Taken from the service menu:

TIme: 04066:45, count: 2468

I used this procedure to pull up the service menu:

http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/hdtv-video-displays-processors/23475-how-check-hours-used-your-plasma.html

I will report back on how the reset goes, thanks for your help and putting all of this info together.
I am not able to correlate that time with EEPROM reading in any way. Guess we need more sample data...

Panasonic plasma black level restoration
Step-by-step guide for restoring the initial MLL on a Panasonic G10 plasma
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post #10980 of 11930 Old 10-28-2013, 10:31 PM
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Blog update posted..  Per keramt's post above, I've had to put some things on hold.  I need to start checking service manuals in earnest.  I've checked four tonight, and sure enough, only one of them have 3.3V on the service connector.  The other three only have 5.0V on their service connectors.

 

The blog post above includes other updates regarding software and custom hardware progress, but with a compiler bug finally worked around and code working once more, I have now shifted to service manual verification.

 

I'm going to need some help though.  I don't even know how many model numbers exist out there.  I'm not a panasonic employee, or a TV service technician. Just a EE with some spare time and a 2009 G10 plasma.

 

So I'm looking for model numbers AND service manuals.  PMs are great, or emails to my username at hotmail.com  (audio.. @ hotmail . com) are just as great -- maybe better actually, than trying to use the forum as a service manual repository..   At this point I don't even know if all of the sizes within a particular family have the same service connector pinouts, or the same physical connectors.  Ugg..

 

Any help that can be provided would be fantastic..

 

thanks,

..dane

 

ps.- I figure it's also about time to mimic miro's layered image of various hour modes on my set and their black levels..  I can tell it's making a difference on my set, but it would probably be good to show people that in fact PMCv1 is doing what it's supposed to be doing.  I'll try to work on that in the coming week while I look at service manuals.. 

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