Panasonic 11G/12G/13G black levels have seemingly doubled overnight? - Page 369 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #11041 of 11930 Old 01-17-2014, 02:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hermeslyre View Post

It's a TC-P54VT25. The pinout was the same.

Enjoy your new set and thanks again, It's almost like getting a new TV!
Thank you, I will expand the guide to include 13G sets with 11-pin GH connector. Could you please snap a photo or two of the back of the TV to show location of the service connector as well as some close-up? From your info I see that the connector is JST GHR-11V-S and the crimps are SSHL-002T-P0.2 or MINI-SSHL-002T-P0.2 (from what I understand the difference is only in packaging - big reel vs. mini reel).

Panasonic plasma black level restoration
Step-by-step guide for restoring the initial MLL on a Panasonic G10 plasma
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post #11042 of 11930 Old 01-17-2014, 06:18 PM
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I posted this close up pic earlier. As for location, can't get a good picture, but it's low right basically the same as the older models. Here's a pic I grabbed from google,

http://www.your3dcenter.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/Panasonic-Viera-TC-P58VT25-back.jpg

The crimps are very tiny. I couldn't get them to work and didn't use them.
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post #11043 of 11930 Old 01-18-2014, 10:39 AM
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One last question prior to the reset:

i have my TV with "hotel mode ON", so that it goes direct to HDMI1 when i power it up. Should i "turn OFF hotel mode", or it doesn´t matter?
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post #11044 of 11930 Old 01-19-2014, 02:47 AM
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I would say it does not matter as when connected to I2C bus, the panel remains shut after you power up the TV.

Panasonic plasma black level restoration
Step-by-step guide for restoring the initial MLL on a Panasonic G10 plasma
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post #11045 of 11930 Old 01-19-2014, 07:51 AM
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This is great work mironto. I'm new to the software hours reset. Is it possible to reset a tx-p37x10b?

Also, I've seen a hardware fix regarding r607. I have only seen..this fix on a german website. I would like to know more as the sc board in my plasma differs from the examples given...on the german website.

Thanks
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post #11046 of 11930 Old 01-19-2014, 10:08 AM
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European/British TX-PxxX10E/B should be pretty similar to North American TC-PxxX1 model (the same way as S10 is similar to S1). X1 has already been reset successufully so the same should work on X10.

The r607 fix has been discussed here as well but from what I remember you will not get the same black level as with the reset (and seems more dangerous fiddling with a screwdriver inside powered on TV).

Panasonic plasma black level restoration
Step-by-step guide for restoring the initial MLL on a Panasonic G10 plasma
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post #11047 of 11930 Old 01-19-2014, 02:34 PM
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Thanks, Mironto. I'm a bit of a novice when it comes to software changes on the epprom. I've been through your guide. From what I can see, there is no need to remove the rear panel. All that is required is access to the service port via the blanking plate on the back panel. The aurdinio reads the output from the service port and the output text can be modified and inputted (overwrite) the epprom.
I had confirmation from the german site, which confirmed the location of r607. I have been involved in maintenance of broadcast monitors, which involved hardware issues, back in the good old crt days. So, am aware of the high voltages in the displays.
I am going to go through your reset as well, as using the aurdinio will be a learning curve.
Thanks

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post #11048 of 11930 Old 01-20-2014, 10:52 AM
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Sucess!!

I done the reset on my TX-P42V10E with sucess and finally i have the black levels from day1 purchase!!

I cannot thank enought mironto with the continuous help on this forum and excelente guide to follow! Afters years of frustration, finally the solution! My set is finally with is deserved black levels!

there´s a solution to us, owners of Panasonic 11G/12G!

THANK YOU!!
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post #11049 of 11930 Old 01-20-2014, 11:16 AM
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After an absence of several years from this thread, I rediscovered the thread after returning to AVS Forums to research Panasonic's ZT 60 TV. After purchasing the ZT60, I can readily see the difference between the ZT and my 54" V10. I'm considering reseting my V10 but had some questions:

How easy would it be to brick the TV when doing the reset?
Is there any known damage that can occur to the TV at a later point after the reset is completed?
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post #11050 of 11930 Old 01-20-2014, 12:41 PM
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If you follow the instructions, it should pretty safe. Steve Kuester did the reset on the exact same model as yours, maybe he will be willing to help you along (of course you can ask the questions here on the forums or send me a PM).

The long term effect of the reset is yet to be seen. So far after 6 months after I did a reset on my G10 I see no issues. But you should always be able to restore the EEPROM values if you find anything out of regular.

Panasonic plasma black level restoration
Step-by-step guide for restoring the initial MLL on a Panasonic G10 plasma
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post #11051 of 11930 Old 01-20-2014, 04:25 PM
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Thanks for your response. Will consider completing the reset on my V10.
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post #11052 of 11930 Old 01-21-2014, 12:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eaayoung View Post

Thanks for your response. Will consider completing the reset on my V10.

Now that i look back, even with the initial fear with strange Arduino codes, hand-made connections, and all... i now consider the process very simple and pretty safe, regarding the brick possibilitie and if you follow the guide carefully, there´s a great chance of sucess.

I must say, regarding mironto´s guide, that i have skipped the "test parts" described on it (and the material used) and just focus on the real-deal :-)

Here´s my colorfull connection:



and

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post #11053 of 11930 Old 01-21-2014, 05:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by samdrlvt View Post

Now that i look back, even with the initial fear with strange Arduino codes, hand-made connections, and all... i now consider the process very simple and pretty safe, regarding the brick possibilitie and if you follow the guide carefully, there´s a great chance of sucess.

I must say, regarding mironto´s guide, that i have skipped the "test parts" described on it (and the material used) and just focus on the real-deal :-)

Here´s my colorfull connection:



and


I've read the guide once and it seem complicated. I guess if I follow it step by step not that hard. I never done anything like this in the past. Plus, I don't watch the TV in a dark room. But I remember how nice the blacks were on my V10 which is pushing me to do it.
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post #11054 of 11930 Old 01-21-2014, 06:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eaayoung View Post

I've read the guide once and it seem complicated. I guess if I follow it step by step not that hard. I never done anything like this in the past. Plus, I don't watch the TV in a dark room. But I remember how nice the blacks were on my V10 which is pushing me to do it.

Yep, the nice V10 blacks are back! I have re-watched yeasterday "The Hobbit" BlueRay, and i have really see the diference with a before/after reset. With the time, along the years, i get used with the washed-out blacks (grey, i mean!), but with the initial black levels back, i can now see what we are losting on image quality.

Believe me, the first time i have read the mironto guide, i have tought myself: auch! That´s over-the-top complicated to my head not used to this "electronical" world! I would never do something like this! But, then, i have read the guide, again and again, and then i started to realize that the really necessary steps are really not that hard...

The process itself is very simple. I have made my reset without the "tests" steps

In a very simplified version of the guide:

- Get Arduino Uno Rev. 3
- Get 4 jumper/wire M/F (or ask mironto for a connector/crimp)

- Install Arduino software on PC and test connection with it ("basic" test described on mironto´s guide)
- Follow the steps on disable internal pull-up resisters (easy, is just, open twi.c file on notepad and search for 2 lines starting with "digitalWrite" and put "//" prior to them)
- Disconect TV
- Connect the wire on the TV + Arduino correctly, according with image provide on guide
- Upload Code for Read to Arduino (mironto has the "read code" ready for download from his guide)
- Connect TV and check the data that appears on "serial monitor" (arduino software)

- Disconnect TV
- Upload Code for Write to Arduino (mironto has the "write code" ready for download from his guide)
- Connect TV
- Press reset button on Arduino and check the data that appears on "serial monitor" (bunch of "zero´s")
- Disconnect TV and unplug Arduino from TV service connector

- Connect TV - Black Levels are Back!
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post #11055 of 11930 Old 01-21-2014, 06:45 AM
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If you still find it too complicated, you can always wait for audiodane's PMCv1. TC-P54V10 is on the list of supported models.

Panasonic plasma black level restoration
Step-by-step guide for restoring the initial MLL on a Panasonic G10 plasma
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post #11056 of 11930 Old 01-21-2014, 12:19 PM
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the extent of my electrical experience before doing this was soldering batteries to LEDs for Halloween costumes and wiring up guitars.

the basic premise of the process is

1)upload code to an Arduino unit. easy as loading MP3s onto a phone.

2)connect four wires from the Ardunio to four pins on the tv. easy as connecting speakers to a receiver. I did it just like @samdrlvt did (glad that worked out for you too btw)

3)turn the tv on and press the reset button on the Arduino

4)recalibrate your tv smile.gif

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Mironto's Panasonic plasma black level restoration guide
Restore the initial MLL on a 2009 Panasonic plasma
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post #11057 of 11930 Old 01-21-2014, 02:09 PM
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Great! Just re-read mironto instructions and is a lot clearer without reading the testing section. Only hardware is the arduinio board and cables! Power is provided via the usb port. The only problem is, I cannot find an 11 pin jst connector. But not an issue, I could fabricated it out of a number of 2pin jst.

Looks fairly straight forward.
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post #11058 of 11930 Old 01-21-2014, 03:59 PM
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One other query, is it possible to roll back the reset by putting the hours back on. I wonder about side effects.

I know that panasonic plasma models pre 2009 were afflicted by the dreaded green blob discoloration on bright images. This was worse than black level increase. So, what I'm thinking is the voltage increase with age was panasonic's crude way of addressing the green blob issue. I say crude, as a time counter doesn't take into account how the display is used.

The above is just my assumptions as to why panasonic designed a clock cointer on ost 2009 plasma's.

Many thanks for the good work mironto!
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post #11059 of 11930 Old 01-21-2014, 04:04 PM
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If you put down the HEX numbers from the reading prior to reset, with a small change in eeprom_write.ino code you can write back the old values instead of zeroes.

Panasonic plasma black level restoration
Step-by-step guide for restoring the initial MLL on a Panasonic G10 plasma
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post #11060 of 11930 Old 01-21-2014, 04:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by samdrlvt View Post

Yep, the nice V10 blacks are back! I have re-watched yeasterday "The Hobbit" BlueRay, and i have really see the diference with a before/after reset. With the time, along the years, i get used with the washed-out blacks (grey, i mean!), but with the initial black levels back, i can now see what we are losting on image quality.

Comparing a ZT60 to my V10 is what did it for me. I could really see a difference but remembered how good the blacks were whey I purchased the TV. I probably do it. Not a big of an issue since my ZT has become the set to watch.
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post #11061 of 11930 Old 01-25-2014, 08:40 AM
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I have a question, what would a 46g10 connector 1 and 11?

This is a picture:
2cxgtao.jpg
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post #11062 of 11930 Old 01-25-2014, 10:25 AM
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Not quite sure what your question is. If you are asking about the position of pin 1, I need a better picture.

Panasonic plasma black level restoration
Step-by-step guide for restoring the initial MLL on a Panasonic G10 plasma
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post #11063 of 11930 Old 01-25-2014, 12:31 PM
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I was curious if there has been any success in resetting the MLL of the G25. If there's any kind of assistance I can provide in finding a solution, please let me know.
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post #11064 of 11930 Old 01-25-2014, 01:50 PM
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It should be possible but apparently Panasinic changed the 11-pin connector on 13G models. Could you please provide the detailed picture of your service connector?

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Step-by-step guide for restoring the initial MLL on a Panasonic G10 plasma
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post #11065 of 11930 Old 01-25-2014, 04:07 PM
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Does anyone know how to access the service connection on a UK G20B? Do I have to take whole back panel off? I can't see any easy access panel.
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post #11066 of 11930 Old 01-26-2014, 08:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mironto View Post

Not quite sure what your question is. If you are asking about the position of pin 1, I need a better picture.

This picture is more closer, my tv is a 46g10



¿The pin 1 is the first of the right o left?

Thanks.
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post #11067 of 11930 Old 01-26-2014, 11:08 AM
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Pins 1and 11 use to be printed on the PCB (e.g. check this picture with numbers on the left side of the connector) but it's not possible to tell from your blurry picture. But judging from the connector orientation, pin 1 is at the left and pin 11 at the right.

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Step-by-step guide for restoring the initial MLL on a Panasonic G10 plasma
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post #11068 of 11930 Old 01-26-2014, 03:42 PM
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I think I found it on the G20B. It's either next to the HDMI like the other models (I see a peel off bendy plastic thingie but it probably will not stick back on without glue. I prised up a small corner to see but won't take it fully off until I am sure I will get the reset dongle). Or it's a silver metal plate above the stand (Not so likely). If anyone can confiim though let me know.
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post #11069 of 11930 Old 01-26-2014, 05:39 PM
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On my vt25 it was next to one of the HDMI ports covered with glued on hard plastic.
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post #11070 of 11930 Old 01-26-2014, 06:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mironto View Post

Pins 1and 11 use to be printed on the PCB (e.g. check this picture with numbers on the left side of the connector) but it's not possible to tell from your blurry picture. But judging from the connector orientation, pin 1 is at the left and pin 11 at the right.

Thanks!
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