Panasonic 11G/12G/13G black levels have seemingly doubled overnight? - Page 370 - AVS Forum
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post #11071 of 11217 Old 01-27-2014, 09:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pittsoccer33 View Post

the extent of my electrical experience before doing this was soldering batteries to LEDs for Halloween costumes and wiring up guitars.

the basic premise of the process is

1)upload code to an Arduino unit. easy as loading MP3s onto a phone.

2)connect four wires from the Ardunio to four pins on the tv. easy as connecting speakers to a receiver. I did it just like @samdrlvt did (glad that worked out for you too btw)

3)turn the tv on and press the reset button on the Arduino

4)recalibrate your tv smile.gif

Wow, I'm glad I came to check in on this thread, cuz I was stuck with the cable making part of the guide. If I'm understanding this correctly, I just need to take 4 jumper wires of any color, connect the male ends to the correct spots on the Arduino, and the female ends to the correct pins on the TV. Is that right?

If so, would these cables be the right ones to get?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/40-Wire-Male-to-Female-Jumper-Wire-20cm-40P-Color-Wires-Ribbon-Cable-Arduino-Pi-/161087974593?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2581976cc1
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post #11072 of 11217 Old 01-27-2014, 09:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mindman View Post

Wow, I'm glad I came to check in on this thread, cuz I was stuck with the cable making part of the guide. If I'm understanding this correctly, I just need to take 4 jumper wires of any color, connect the male ends to the correct spots on the Arduino, and the female ends to the correct pins on the TV. Is that right?

If so, would these cables be the right ones to get?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/40-Wire-Male-to-Female-Jumper-Wire-20cm-40P-Color-Wires-Ribbon-Cable-Arduino-Pi-/161087974593?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2581976cc1

Yep, thanks to mironto guide it´s a simplified process.

I have connected the arduino to the service conector pins, using the same cables M/F, but i have to take the plastic cover on the "female" side of it, to connect to the pin on the TV.

Here´s my way to get a funcional cable:




And here´s final result:

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post #11073 of 11217 Old 01-27-2014, 09:54 AM
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I posted about the jumper wires a few posts back so I'll just quote
Quote:
Originally Posted by mironto View Post

It is possible to use the jumper wires (I used them myself during the first reset before I got hold of the JST connector), but the black female plastic won't fit into the connecotr housing so you must remove it first. Also, the crimps are 2.54mm while service connector pins are 2.0mm, so they won't hold in place. You have to squish them a bit with plyers. But pittsoccer33 used different jump wires that fit perfectly to the connector in this post.

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post #11074 of 11217 Old 01-27-2014, 10:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mironto View Post

I posted about the jumper wires a few posts back so I'll just quote

Okay, they have those in stock at my local Radio Shack. If I buy those, I won't have to do any modifications to them at all, or will I still need to remove the housing around the female ends?
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post #11075 of 11217 Old 01-27-2014, 10:53 AM
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I didn't need to do anything.

The male ends stayed stuck in the Arduino and the female ends were snug on the tv service pins - I didn't have to modify anything. If they were slightly longer it wouldve made hooking it up a tiny bit easier, but the wires worked perfectly. Thinking back I suppose I couldve chained several of them together to make longer wires...

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post #11076 of 11217 Old 01-27-2014, 11:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pittsoccer33 View Post

I didn't need to do anything.

The male ends stayed stuck in the Arduino and the female ends were snug on the tv service pins - I didn't have to modify anything. If they were slightly longer it wouldve made hooking it up a tiny bit easier, but the wires worked perfectly. Thinking back I suppose I couldve chained several of them together to make longer wires...

I have just give my example, because it was very easy to me to get some M/F arduine cable jumpers (even on ebay), but, all of them are 2.5mm diameter on the female side, and it needs some simple procedure to retire the plastic around the female conector (it must be 2.00mm). It was very easy, using a little knife, it come out very, very easy :-)

But, i think if i get those radioshack cables it is much more easy and without any need of plastic trimming :-) Problem is, RadioShack stores are a continent (USA) away (im from Europe) :-D

The important is: to get the job done and get back those nice black levels :-)
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post #11077 of 11217 Old 01-27-2014, 05:08 PM
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Hello all-  Tonight's PMCv1 night! Thought I'd check in here before I got started on things.  Hoping to finalize the little PMCv1 custom board tonight.  I really wish I could add more too it and make it far more useful, but some recent research indicates that would add too much delay before getting things done.  So I'm focusing on a simple PMCv1 for now..  More updates on my page later tonight..

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by samdrlvt View Post

@audiodane - If necessary and if it helps , i have acess to Service Manuals, from Panasonic Plasmas models from 2009-2011 range. I have already send my TX-P42V10E Service Manual to see if my model can be fixed, but i can also send another manuals.

PM if necessary :-)

 

This page on my website lists tons of models that I do not yet have service manuals for -- in case you've got any of them.  There are also likely many others (especially non-US models) that I have no idea about.  The best I can do is go with the (few) service manuals that I have..   Thanks!

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by tpaxadpom View Post

Mironto,thank you for the reply. My 10G panasonic is about 6 years old and I have a total of 324hrs. It's a bedroom tv and not being used that much. I've calibrated the tv after I've got it and mll measured at 0.012fl and now it measured at 0.029ftl. I could see the worsening of the black level with naked eye. It was probably triggered ~300hrs.
th-42pz77u has the eeprom that stores the hours of operation but the service manual doesn't have "eeprom write" next to service connector. Reference designator for that eeprom is even the same as for th-42pz80u which is 11g (though the panasonic part number is different, I haven't looked at the pinout yet). I don't know if I can overwrite that eeprom or not. If I purchase the programmer I may play with it. Perhaps I can decode the number of turn on cycles if I read the first bytes from eeprom. It would be great if someone could take at look at the service manual as the pinout is a bit different. I want to make sure I can disable other devices on I2C bus with the signals routed to service connector. If it was only designed to read the contest of eeprom (unlikely) then it won't be possible. I can e-mail the service manual or it can be downloaded from the elektrotanya website.

PS: I just noticed that 100IRE light output is 23.8ftl versus 14ftl with the same settings. It is possible someone was messing with the settings (myself included) and didn't return them back. But regardless of what happened black level got worse.

 

I would be happy to have a look if you send me your service manual or link it here..

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by mironto View Post


It is possible to use the jumper wires (I used them myself during the first reset before I got hold of the JST connector), but the black female plastic won't fit into the connecotr housing so you must remove it first. Also, the crimps are 2.54mm while service connector pins are 2.0mm, so they won't hold in place. You have to squish them a bit with plyers. But pittsoccer33 used different jump wires that fit perfectly to the connector in this post.
From what I remember, there were reports in this thread that 10G model should stay the same. Atm. I can only think of LarryInRI's measurements, but maybe there are more (but it's still possible, that your set is affected).

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by samdrlvt View Post

just to be on the safe side, i have checked the service manual on my TX-P42V10E, and there´s the following scheme, about the service connector (11 pins):

In that scheme, the pin number 10 has a diferent description from the service connector scheme on your guide.

However, with that in mind and the previous remarks, can i make the connections on the pin connectors, in the same order, as described on your guide?:

Sorry to be a somewhat annoying noob, but i am very curious to follow your project and i am trying to make an effort on following a guide on a "strange" language / procedures... one thing is positive: on my research on this subject i have learned a lot about arduino language and electronics (a subject that previously i don´t read/learn about :-)

 

Indeed, some models list is as GenX7_SRQ, some as GenX6_SRQ, and others IIC_CONT.  Some actually list it with both names..  Based on such information, I am operating under the assumption that they are in fact all the same connection.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by samdrlvt View Post

One last question prior to the reset:

i have my TV with "hotel mode ON", so that it goes direct to HDMI1 when i power it up. Should i "turn OFF hotel mode", or it doesn´t matter?

 

Well now that's cool.  I don't think I knew about Hotel mode.  I'll have to look into that.  How do you put it into that mode?  What other limitations are invoked?  Can you set a default volume level as well?  That would be most handy indeed!

 

cheers,

..dane


 
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post #11078 of 11217 Old 01-27-2014, 06:38 PM
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This is copied and edited from the Z1 service manual, most other models should be the same. Audiodane, I sent you this manual, but didn't say who it's from. I hope you still needed it.


5.3. Hotel mode

1. Purpose
Restrict a function for hotels.

2. Access command to the Hotel mode setup menu
In order to display the Hotel mode setup menu, please
enter the following command (within 2 second).
Vol. [Down] on the TV + [RF REMOTE] : INPUT (3
times)
Then, the Hotel mode setup menu is displayed.

3. To exit the Hotel mode setup menu
Disconnect AC power cord from wall outlet.
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post #11079 of 11217 Old 01-27-2014, 08:51 PM
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Here's the service connector on the back of my TC-P50G25:

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post #11080 of 11217 Old 01-27-2014, 10:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roderick Munch View Post

Here's the service connector on the back of my TC-P50G25:


Same connector as on my VT25. If you want to try it, you'll need this connector and these are the matching pin crimps. Only a couple bucks shipped.

I didn't use those pins though, too tiny, I ripped apart two of those 3 pin fan connectors you see in pc's, like here. Left the cables connected. Just took a couple minutes vs the 20 minutes I spent failing trying to get the correct pin crimps to work. I bought this Arduino board.
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post #11081 of 11217 Old 01-28-2014, 02:43 PM
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Hello!!!

I perform the reset today and everything seems to went well, but in the hours of the TV still display 1218 hours...why??

When I did the reset, the values are 0x00 0x00 0x00 0x00 0x02, is correct?
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post #11082 of 11217 Old 01-28-2014, 03:49 PM
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The hours shown in the factory menu are kept in the PEAKS data, if I recall correctly.  The value used for the anti-aging algorithm is kept in the PANEL data.  You would need to clear both to have them stay in sync, but the method that mironto and I are currently using are leaving the PEAKS data alone, so no change in the factory menu.  I don't recall if the PEAKS data has a separate power-on counter as well, or just an hour counter.


 
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post #11083 of 11217 Old 01-28-2014, 04:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bendergender View Post

Hello!!!

I perform the reset today and everything seems to went well, but in the hours of the TV still display 1218 hours...why??

When I did the reset, the values are 0x00 0x00 0x00 0x00 0x02, is correct?
My explanation from the guide (you need to read the guide more thoroughly, do you?):
Quote:
Originally Posted by http://panasonic.mironto.sk/restoring_black/reset_eeprom/ 
Note: There are two EEPROM chips, where panel age is stored. One is on the A-board, which drives the panel and increases MLL with time. The other is on the peaks circuit, which can be reset through service menu. Note that this peaks counter does not affect MLL (despite what the author of that linked post might suggest). If you reset A-board EEPROM value through this guide, the hours in peaks EEPROM will stay unchanged. Thus you can still track the number of hours your TV has been running. If you want, you can reset the peaks EEPROM as well so that you can check the number of hours since the reset without connecting the service cable and Arduino. But I prefer to keep the actual hours in peaks and reset A-board EEPROM. If you note the actual hours through the service menu prior to the reset, you can compute with basic math skills how many hours passed since the last reset.

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post #11084 of 11217 Old 01-28-2014, 04:37 PM
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Dane:  Great news on the update, good luck finishing up and I'll be one of the first ones in line to grab one of these little genius devices and get my G10 back to looking it's best.  Thanks again.

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post #11085 of 11217 Old 01-28-2014, 05:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by audiodane View Post

The hours shown in the factory menu are kept in the PEAKS data, if I recall correctly.  The value used for the anti-aging algorithm is kept in the PANEL data.  You would need to clear both to have them stay in sync, but the method that mironto and I are currently using are leaving the PEAKS data alone, so no change in the factory menu.  I don't recall if the PEAKS data has a separate power-on counter as well, or just an hour counter.

Thanks Dane!!!

wink.gif

Is also quite possible that I purchase a PMCv1!!!smile.gif

Greats updates in your blog!
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post #11086 of 11217 Old 01-28-2014, 05:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mironto View Post

My explanation from the guide (you need to read the guide more thoroughly, do you?):

Thanks Mironto!!!

You are right, In the guide explains this...zorry.
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post #11087 of 11217 Old 01-28-2014, 08:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by audiodane View Post

I would be happy to have a look if you send me your service manual or link it here..
Audiodane here is the link to th-42pz77u service manual. http://elektrotanya.com/panasonic_th-42pz77u_ch_gp10dhu.pdf/download.html
Thanks.
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post #11088 of 11217 Old 01-29-2014, 07:47 AM
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Hey Dane:

Believe it or not, my TC-P65V10 panel is approaching 16,000 hours, and its rising black levels are annoying - to say the least.

I'll be watching this thread along with your blog, and as soon as you are shipping I'll be purchasing your PMCv1 reset device.

Many thanks in advance!

Best regards,
Lloyd C.

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post #11089 of 11217 Old 01-29-2014, 11:09 AM
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Thanks everone. I am hoping to get the board information off to Advanced Circuits this week for quote, and getting updated quotes for the connector. I will get quotes for both 11pin connectors as well (the ones labeled "Hopeful (5V)" on the site have a different connector than everybody else). Maybe I can get both versions without having to pay double the price.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by tpaxadpom View Post

Audiodane here is the link to th-42pz77u service manual. http://elektrotanya.com/panasonic_th-42pz77u_ch_gp10dhu.pdf/download.html
Thanks.

 

Thanks!  Looking it over, it does have an 11pin connector, but it's unclear if the I2C communication lines are the right ones.  It also has a 30pin connector (rather than a 20pin) that most certainly seems to have the right connections, but it's a completely different connector.  Also keep in mind, I do not know which models actually exhibit this problem, and which models actually support the fix.  I'm just working on custom hardware.  Somewhere in this thread discusses which models actually are fixable using this method.  I will try to dig up the list (unless someone else beats me to it).  So for now, I have to put it in the "Don't Know Yet" category.  I will revisit it however once PMCv1 is out the door.

 

thanks,

..dane

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post #11090 of 11217 Old 01-30-2014, 05:46 PM
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Ok guys, I just need a little clarification on one step in moronto's guide, then I'll be ready to do this reset with the Radio Shack jumper wires. It's on the page referring to disabling the pull-up resistors. I've commented out the two lines to disable the resistors, and saved the twi.c file with the changes, making sure it didn't have a .txt extension added on the end. I'll quote the paragraph and bold the part where I am confused:
Quote:
Save the file close it (make sure the file is saved as twi.c, because notepad sometimes adds .txt extension and you will end up with twi.c.txt file and the original twi.c will not contain the changes, thus you will not have the pull-up resistors disabled). Open Arduino IDE, load the sketch, re-compile, and upload the code to the Arduino board. As verification that the pull-ups are really disabled, when you try to read from our test EEPROM, you won’t be able to read anything. To get the testbed working again, you’ll need to connect two pull-up resistors as described on next page.

What sketch is this referring to? twi.c is not a sketch file and won't upload to the board, unless I'm missing something here. I'm guessing this means upload eeprom_read.ino? Just want to make sure I do this absolutely correct...
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post #11091 of 11217 Old 01-30-2014, 10:50 PM
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Sketch = .ino file wink.gif

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post #11092 of 11217 Old 01-31-2014, 08:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mironto View Post

Sketch = .ino file wink.gif

Right, I got that much figured out. smile.gif What I want to know is, which .ino file am I uploading for this step? eeprom_read.ino? Or something else?
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post #11093 of 11217 Old 01-31-2014, 08:59 AM
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the "read" file isn't a mandatory step. If you upload that to the ardunio board and then run it with the software open you can get a hexidecimal readout of what is currently written on your tv (number of hours, number of power cycle, etc).

I skipped it entirely since none of that meant anything to me. I just:

-loaded the "write" file

-connected the jumper wires to the tv

-powered on the tv (it powered on to a blank black screen)

-pressed the reset button on the arduino.

at this point if I had pressed and held in the power button on my tv (2009 S1) it would shut off and kick right back on, again to the blank black screen. you need to remove the wires from the arduino first

at that point it was done

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post #11094 of 11217 Old 01-31-2014, 09:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mindman View Post

Right, I got that much figured out. smile.gif What I want to know is, which .ino file am I uploading for this step? eeprom_read.ino? Or something else?
There only two .ino files mentioned in the guide (besides the blink test). If you want to read the EEPROM, you choose eeprom_read.ino. You want to write? Load the other one.
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post #11095 of 11217 Old 01-31-2014, 11:33 AM
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Ok guys, I just got done doing the reset and it WORKED!! smile.gif OMG, I am so incredibly happy right now! I'm still in shock, the TV feels new again and its lifespan will be greatly increased for me as a result of this. This fix is so easy, it really is as easy as connecting speaker wires, but seemed difficult at first because I was unable to craft a service cable like the one mironto used. Maybe the guide could be updated with mention that jumper wires will work fine in place of a dedicated service cable? That might be obvious to those with experience, but it wasn't to me.

To think that this was all because I searched for "Panasonic black level fix" in Google a few months back, hoping against hope that the community had come up with some kind of fix, and was surprisingly they had. I am in debt to all who made this happen and helped me out, especially mironto. Thanks again, you guys are my heroes. wink.gif I will be checking back for updates on dane's auto reset tool as well.

Cheers. biggrin.gif
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post #11096 of 11217 Old 01-31-2014, 12:19 PM
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hey everybody,
i've been a long-time follower of this thread even though i never contributed anything. but now i felt i had to :-)
by following mirontos guide just 15mins ago i successfully reset the panel hours in the eeprom on my TX-P42S10E (European/German Model). biggrin.gif
I used an arduino uno together with some male/male jumper cables i had lying around. i just cut off one end, striped the insulation off about 4mm and appllied the crimps described in mirontos guide (didnt have a crimp tool and carefully used ordinary pliers from a leatherman-multitool-replica with a rather narrow tip to get the crimps in place). after pushing the individual cables into the connector housing (again, same connector as in mirontos guide), i attached the assembled cable to the panny's service connector.

for the software i used arduino ide 1.0.5 on my macbook (os x). cause i didn't want to fiddle around with the twi.c (or rather: i didn't bother with locating the libraries on osx / mess around with the .app file) i disabled the internal pull-up resistors locally in my code as described here by simply adding the lines in both eeprom_read.ino and eeprom_write.ino right after the line wire.begin() in the setup() function.
the resulting function looks like this (eeprom_read.ino example):
Code:
//---- ORIGINAL CODE ----//
void setup() 
 {
Wire.begin();         // initialise the connection

//---- ADDED CODE to disable pull-up resistors----//
#ifndef cbi
#define cbi(sfr, bit) (_SFR_BYTE(sfr) &= ~_BV(bit))
#endif

  #if defined(__AVR_ATmega168__) || defined(__AVR_ATmega8__) || defined(__AVR_ATmega328P__)
    // deactivate internal pull-ups for twi
    // as per note from atmega8 manual pg167
    cbi(PORTC, 4);
    cbi(PORTC, 5);
  #else
    // deactivate internal pull-ups for twi
    // as per note from atmega128 manual pg204
    cbi(PORTD, 0);
    cbi(PORTD, 1);
  #endif
//---- END ADDED CODE ----//

//---- CONTINUE WITH ORIGINAL CODE ----//
Serial.begin(9600);   // set baud rate[/INDENT]
//---- eeprom_write.ino continues with more instructions from here----//
}


After resetting the panel age, i immediately noticed the difference eek.gifeek.gifbiggrin.gif
i can wholeheartedly recommend everybody to do the treatment on their own set. The overall process was really easy with the help provided by everyone in this thread and in particular the really extensive guide by mironto.

now i'm back to enjoying my good-as-new tv smile.gif
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post #11097 of 11217 Old 01-31-2014, 12:27 PM
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So happy to see there is more people enjoying their nice black levels back on their TV´s! biggrin.gif

I think this is a great progress after 4 years of "silence"! Cannot stop saying thanks to mironto, dane and other people who has "solving the puzzle" on this reset smile.gifsmile.gif
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post #11098 of 11217 Old 01-31-2014, 12:33 PM
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I'm assuming nobody knows yet, but is this an issue with the vt60 or zt60?
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post #11099 of 11217 Old 01-31-2014, 12:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by onefatsurfer View Post

I'm assuming nobody knows yet, but is this an issue with the vt60 or zt60?

I don't think it was an issue after 2009.
Quote:
According to Panasonic, the black levels of its plasma TVs are no longer programmed to incrementally lighten over time.

http://news.cnet.com/8301-17938_105-20066427-1/panasonic-plasma-black-levels-no-longer-worsen/

My HTPC front end set up
Integration for whole home ATSC, CableCARD, FM radio, Blu-Ray, HD-DVD, DVD, VHS control & capture, video games, and archived & streaming media playback
Mironto's Panasonic plasma black level restoration guide
Restore the initial MLL on a 2009 Panasonic plasma
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post #11100 of 11217 Old 01-31-2014, 12:41 PM
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Ok, excellent. I'll be sending this thread to a buddy of mine that has multiple older Panasonic plasmas. Thanks everyone
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