Is it possible to turn a 6020FD into an ELITE? - Page 21 - AVS Forum
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post #601 of 698 Old 02-15-2012, 06:20 PM
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Thank you.

The resistors are smaller than a grain of rice. It is quite difficult to work with these. I am having a friend do a batch of these for me. I had him do my original 1352 board yesterday and it worked perfectly. My 5020 in now a 111FD. You can search for AWW1353 on ebay and buy them from me. This board functions exactly the same as the AWW1353 minus the sensor which most people remove anyway. You can send your board to someone offering to upgrade it, but your set will be down for that time and you will not have a backup board. Your call

Now I am going back to enjoying my Elite set

Gunga Gulunga..... Gunga Kunga Galunga..... On your deathbed you will receive total consciousness. So I got that goin' for me.
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post #602 of 698 Old 02-20-2012, 07:06 AM
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PM me with any questions

Gunga Gulunga..... Gunga Kunga Galunga..... On your deathbed you will receive total consciousness. So I got that goin' for me.
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post #603 of 698 Old 02-20-2012, 11:58 AM
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What does the IR plug do. How is the functionality affected if I get a converted 1352 rather than a real 1353.
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post #604 of 698 Old 02-22-2012, 12:32 PM
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Bought a board from Jano18 & very excited to install it. I already think the picture is great so anything better is awesome. Going in a Kuro 5020.
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post #605 of 698 Old 02-23-2012, 02:40 AM
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I'm looking at the back of my TV, and I don't know how to remove the first white ribbon. I don't see any latches, I just see an extremely small bit of metal on each side where the white ribbon is attached. I took a picture of what I'm seeing. Any advice on how to remove this first ribbon cable? Thanks.
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post #606 of 698 Old 02-23-2012, 08:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caunyd View Post

I'm looking at the back of my TV, and I don't know how to remove the first white ribbon. I don't see any latches, I just see an extremely small bit of metal on each side where the white ribbon is attached. I took a picture of what I'm seeing. Any advice on how to remove this first ribbon cable? Thanks.

jerk it out of there!

bob
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post #607 of 698 Old 02-23-2012, 08:14 AM
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Never "jerk" a ribbon cable out of its seating. He needs to re read the instructions to get the cable out.

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Originally Posted by spongebob View Post

jerk it out of there!

bob

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post #608 of 698 Old 02-24-2012, 03:22 PM
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Anyone?
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post #609 of 698 Old 02-24-2012, 09:00 PM - Thread Starter
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I believe you are at step 8 here http://www.hippotechsolutions.com/?page_id=2693 there is not a latch on that connector so you carefully pull the cable. Since you got the back off I would take some compressed air and clean off all the boards. From the pictures the boards look kind of dusty and will help prolong the life of the electronics regardless if you change the board or not.
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post #610 of 698 Old 02-24-2012, 09:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spongebob View Post

jerk it out of there!

bob


Oh-really great advice! In case you didn't know those ribbon cables are FRAGILE.
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post #611 of 698 Old 02-28-2012, 09:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caunyd View Post

Anyone?

your best option is to wiggle it out. it will be tough to do, but i would pinch the cable at the sides to free it. i remember that one being the hardest to pull out. don't force it, but you DO have to apply a fair amount of pressure.

Pioneer PDP-6020FD E-lite
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post #612 of 698 Old 02-29-2012, 09:47 AM
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From your pics it looks like you are trying to pull off the 'wrong' end of the ribbon cable ??? , ie are you trying to pull the ribbon cable end which is attached to the 'vga connector board' ?, pull out the other end, the end that is attached to the audio board that you are replacing, there is no need to disassembly the other side of the ribbon. There are no latches or anything, it just pulls straight out, it is held in place in the assembly by pressure alone. It is snug, just pull evenly and steadily.

When you replace your board don't forget to install the heat sink that is on
the back of the original board, it looks like a 1" x 1/2" x 1/4" white soft rubber block.

I forgot this and went back in eventually and went through the whole procedure and put this back in.
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post #613 of 698 Old 02-29-2012, 09:57 AM
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also ... first remove the vga board from the back panel by removing 2 nuts beside the vga connector and 1 philips head screw at the other edge of the board, this will allow you to get the black metal back sub panel off that we can see in your pic, ....then you can pull out the ribbon cable ... from the socket which is on the audio board ... so you will be left with the ribbon cable still attached to the vga board socket but the other end free
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post #614 of 698 Old 03-02-2012, 07:05 AM
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Anyone know a source for the AWW1353 boards or someone who is still doing the conversion? I've sent out a couple of PM's but not heard back from anyone yet.

Thanks!
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post #615 of 698 Old 03-03-2012, 01:11 PM
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I will have another batch of these modded and tested in about a week or so. Quantities are drying up so PM me to have one reserved.

Gunga Gulunga..... Gunga Kunga Galunga..... On your deathbed you will receive total consciousness. So I got that goin' for me.
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post #616 of 698 Old 03-03-2012, 11:56 PM
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this is super cool, i dont really come to AVS that often anymore, ever since i bought my 5020, i stayed away to save my wallet.

But i finally moved out of the dorms so i was wanting to get an ISF calibration done, so i pop in real quick and see this thread, now i obviously want to do this first, then get the calibration, probably from Chad B since im just south of him in Dayton OH.

TopperMcFly youll be getting a PM shortly

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post #617 of 698 Old 03-22-2012, 09:52 PM
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I am victorious! got the modded board from TopperMcFly yesterday and installed it tonight


Pioneer PDP 5020-Pioneer BDP 51fd-Toshiba XA2-Yamaha DSP A1-Emotiva ERM-1's-Paradigm Monitor 7's-Epik Sentinel
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post #618 of 698 Old 03-30-2012, 09:21 AM
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Just completed my PDP-5020HD IO board swap last night. Took around 2 hours as I took my time.

Used a folding wood TV table to lay out the screws in the same configuration as they came out. Made it so easy at a glance to know exactly where they belonged during the reassembly.

Was slightly leary about doing this project for fear of either cracking the screen or messing up a connection and not being able to go back to stock.
But it was really an easy task. Just took my time as the instructions and everyone advised.
Re-installed the IO metal cover and main back cover with just a few screws so that I could test it before installing the multitude of the rest of the screws.

Fired up and no problems or flashing blue lights.

Now just need to get a calibrator over to make it the best it can be.

Have a PRO-111 Elite in my living room main setup and now a PDP-5020 E-lite in my bedroom setup.
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post #619 of 698 Old 04-20-2012, 08:27 AM
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Add me to the list. Did the board swap (thanks TopperMcFly, who by the way, is a GREAT guy to deal with) and things worked out well. I thought I had more buzz after swapping the boards, but, after putting everything back together (especially putting the back panel back on), it was evident to me that there was no difference. I did the board swap with the TV in place on top of the large cabinet where it usually sits instead of moving it to another location. I'm glad that I didn't end up laying it on the floor because, at least in my case, it would have just been a lot of extra work but it wouldn't have made the job any easier (and I also was worried about having the TV laying face down, even on a comforter). I used scotch tape and taped each screw I took out right next to the hole it came out of so reassembly was child's play. The only thing to watch out for is the ribbon cables but you just have to take your time with them. Otherwise, there was nothing difficult about it at all.
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post #620 of 698 Old 04-24-2012, 04:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xxxxxx View Post

Add me to the list. Did the board swap (thanks TopperMcFly, who by the way, is a GREAT guy to deal with) and things worked out well. I thought I had more buzz after swapping the boards, but, after putting everything back together (especially putting the back panel back on), it was evident to me that there was no difference. I did the board swap with the TV in place on top of the large cabinet where it usually sits instead of moving it to another location. I'm glad that I didn't end up laying it on the floor because, at least in my case, it would have just been a lot of extra work but it wouldn't have made the job any easier (and I also was worried about having the TV laying face down, even on a comforter). I used scotch tape and taped each screw I took out right next to the hole it came out of so reassembly was child's play. The only thing to watch out for is the ribbon cables but you just have to take your time with them. Otherwise, there was nothing difficult about it at all.



it's a tricky procedure especially with that ribbon cable, but it is well worth the effort. the improvement in pq after tweaking the settings in pro is truly amazing just from this one little board.

neflixis our nemesis
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post #621 of 698 Old 04-29-2012, 11:56 PM
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Hi guys, I'm having a really difficult time pulling the white connector up, as shown below.

http://www.hippotechsolutions.com/wp...side-cable.jpg

As it says in the directions in step 10, you just pull up on the white connector right? Is there any latch that I should be flipping? Or something else that I should be doing? Because I have been pulling as hard as I feel comfortable, but I can't get the white connector off. What am I doing wrong?
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post #622 of 698 Old 04-30-2012, 10:39 AM
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post #623 of 698 Old 04-30-2012, 10:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caunyd View Post

Anyone?

For the one shown in the pic you pull straight up. The two wider ribbons above have the latch mechanisms.
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post #624 of 698 Old 04-30-2012, 11:21 AM
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fishinbob,
I tried doing that, but it seems to be stuck. I tried using a decent amount of force pulling up, but it seems that it is lodged there. Any suggestions on how to remove that stuck white connector without damaging the board that it's on?
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post #625 of 698 Old 04-30-2012, 11:35 AM
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Is there some kind of lubricant that I can safely use on an electronic board? Because if all you have to do is pull up on the white connector, then my connector is STUCK.
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post #626 of 698 Old 04-30-2012, 11:40 AM
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Ok I got it. I had to take a sewing pin and pry it apart slowly. Thanks guys
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post #627 of 698 Old 05-12-2012, 11:27 PM
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I have a 141fd and 151fd with broken panels and when I remove both backs all the parts are the same as 6020fd parts except the I/O boards.
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post #628 of 698 Old 05-14-2012, 03:52 PM
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Ive done the swap in my 6020fd but the picture quality isn't that great after the swap. Anything else I should do? I have the 6010fd and picture quality on my 6010fd seems better.
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post #629 of 698 Old 05-14-2012, 09:10 PM
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I have several of the Elite I/O boards part# AWW1353 available for sale. If you are interested you can see my ad in the classified section. Feel free to PM me or use my contact information below.

Jan Simonsen
586-855-1305
jansimonsen@comcast.net
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post #630 of 698 Old 05-14-2012, 11:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by locdog33 View Post

Ive done the swap in my 6020fd but the picture quality isn't that great after the swap. Anything else I should do? I have the 6010fd and picture quality on my 6010fd seems better.

Have you enabled the ISF modes? They are significantly better than Pure, which resembles Movie on the non-Elites. Calibrated ISF day combines the accuracy of Pure and brightness/pop of Standard, it is quite nice.
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