Is it possible to turn a 6020FD into an ELITE? - Page 24 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #691 of 716 Old 03-02-2014, 10:50 AM
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Looking for AWW1353 board to perform swap on 5020 panel. Tried contacting Jano18 but was unsuccessful. Anyone have one, or know where I can find this board? Thanks.
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post #692 of 716 Old 10-29-2014, 02:26 PM
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Hi, do you still have any modified boards for sale? Do you offer a mod service for the AWW1352?
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post #693 of 716 Old 11-06-2014, 09:45 AM
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"how to"

I just purchased an IO assembly board from ShopJimmy, and in a few days my 5020 should become an E-Lite. Hooray!

The problem I'm having now is I can't seem to locate the actual instructions for how to perform the swap. You know, a step-by-step guide with lots of pictures so that I don't destroy my panel. I have tried the links from post #1 in this thread, but they don't seem to work. I would appreciate it greatly if a forum member could provide a link, or point me in the right direction. Thanks all.
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post #694 of 716 Old 11-06-2014, 09:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madtapper View Post
I just purchased an IO assembly board from ShopJimmy, and in a few days my 5020 should become an E-Lite. Hooray!

The problem I'm having now is I can't seem to locate the actual instructions for how to perform the swap. You know, a step-by-step guide with lots of pictures so that I don't destroy my panel. I have tried the links from post #1 in this thread, but they don't seem to work. I would appreciate it greatly if a forum member could provide a link, or point me in the right direction. Thanks all.
I think i saved something on my laptop at home, i'll try to upload it when i get home.
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post #695 of 716 Old 11-06-2014, 09:59 AM
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I just have the PDF file which is already in the first post, I suggest getting a 5020FD service manual (not sure if I'm allowed to share that here or not, but it can easily be found through google), it's even more detailed when it comes to how to disassemble the panel properly.

KRP-500M | Kuro 9G 5020FD + e-lite mod | B&W 683 Fronts | B&W 685 Center | B&W DM601 S3 Rears | HSU VTF3 MK3 Sub | Yamaha RX-V663 AVR
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post #696 of 716 Old 11-06-2014, 12:29 PM
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thanks

Wow! Ask and you shall receive! Thanks guys for the uber-quick replies.

I made a rookie mistake and overlooked the "rundown" link initially but see it now. Looks like a simple process according to the pictures, but feel free to share any tips/tricks from your own experiences which may help things go more smoothly.
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post #697 of 716 Old 11-06-2014, 12:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madtapper View Post
Wow! Ask and you shall receive! Thanks guys for the uber-quick replies.

I made a rookie mistake and overlooked the "rundown" link initially but see it now. Looks like a simple process according to the pictures, but feel free to share any tips/tricks from your own experiences which may help things go more smoothly.
I may also just have the PDF in the first link however i never actually got around to doing the swap because i went projector

Now my 5020 is regulated as a "backup" in case the projector breaks.
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post #698 of 716 Old 11-12-2014, 09:29 AM
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Success

Received the board yesterday and installed last night. Very easy but time consuming as there are many small screws which need to be removed. Other than dropping said screws repeatedly, I didn't encounter any problems. TV behaves normally, and I now have access to pure picture mode and pro adjustments.

I found the part from ShopJimmy.com and recommend others looks there as well. It took a couple months on the waiting list but payed off in the end. Thanks fellow AVS members for all your help.
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post #699 of 716 Old 01-23-2015, 02:17 PM
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Hey guys wondering if the E-Lite conversion enables IP Control in addition to Pure mode.
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post #700 of 716 Old 05-04-2015, 09:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Kevin Barcellos View Post
Hey guys wondering if the E-Lite conversion enables IP Control in addition to Pure mode.
I have one available if needed. Pulled from a 151FD. PM me

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post #701 of 716 Old 05-12-2015, 11:53 AM
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Looking for AWW1353 board to perform swap on 5020 panel. Thanks.
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post #702 of 716 Old 06-22-2015, 05:58 PM
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Hi all,

I know I'm late to the party, but I'm looking for a AWW1353 board to do an E-LITE conversion on my 6020. Greatly appreciated if anyone has one to sell or otherwise knows where I can find one.

Thanks
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post #703 of 716 Old 02-13-2016, 11:55 PM
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anyone have a working AWW1353 board to sell? Looking for one...
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post #704 of 716 Old 11-03-2016, 12:03 AM
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Looking for an AWW1353 board, if anyone has one.
Thanks.
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post #705 of 716 Old 11-12-2016, 07:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Patios View Post
Looking for an AWW1353 board, if anyone has one.
Thanks.
I have an AWW1352 board, it came from my 6020 when I changed mine to an "Elite".
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post #706 of 716 Old 12-02-2016, 08:15 AM
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I managed to get my hands on an aww1353 and will perform the elite swap on my 6020 soon. The problem is that it looks like the site that hosted the guide written by wrinklefree is no more. Can anyone send me the guide directly or send a new link? I'm hoping somebody saved it locally on their computer.
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post #707 of 716 Old 12-15-2016, 11:13 PM
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No idea if anyone still frequents this thread but just in case there's someone out there I have a question about the conversion. I received my AWW1353 board in the mail and it wasn't packaged ideally (packed in a small bubble mailer rather than a hard box like I had hoped). It seems like it's probably okay but the last thing I want to do is put a damaged board in to the TV and then pull my hair out trying to figure out whether it's the board or installation error when my TV doesn't power on.

Upon close inspection I noticed 3 possible problems. I'm hoping that none of them are real problems:

1. One of the two small capacitors right next to the two big tall ones is bent and touching the other small capacitor. Is this okay?
2. The two big capacitors were exposed from the plastic wrap over the board and and sitting right up against the bubble mailer. They look okay though. Are these things easily damaged by bumps or weight?
3. The optical port is not flush with the board - in fact the entire block port moves pretty easily up and down like a lever and is only half-attached to the board. This may be normal, or it may be broken.

Can anyone who has done the swap chime in on whether I should be worried with these? Or am I just looking for problems? It was definitely a used board, apparently pulled from a cracked screen.

Last edited by Patios; 12-15-2016 at 11:16 PM.
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post #708 of 716 Old 12-16-2016, 06:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Patios View Post
No idea if anyone still frequents this thread but just in case there's someone out there I have a question about the conversion. I received my AWW1353 board in the mail and it wasn't packaged ideally (packed in a small bubble mailer rather than a hard box like I had hoped). It seems like it's probably okay but the last thing I want to do is put a damaged board in to the TV and then pull my hair out trying to figure out whether it's the board or installation error when my TV doesn't power on.

Upon close inspection I noticed 3 possible problems. I'm hoping that none of them are real problems:

1. One of the two small capacitors right next to the two big tall ones is bent and touching the other small capacitor. Is this okay?
2. The two big capacitors were exposed from the plastic wrap over the board and and sitting right up against the bubble mailer. They look okay though. Are these things easily damaged by bumps or weight?
3. The optical port is not flush with the board - in fact the entire block port moves pretty easily up and down like a lever and is only half-attached to the board. This may be normal, or it may be broken.

Can anyone who has done the swap chime in on whether I should be worried with these? Or am I just looking for problems? It was definitely a used board, apparently pulled from a cracked screen.
I have the same board sitting in front of me, now. It came directly from Pioneer many years ago and was not in a box, only bubble wrap. To help answer your questions...
  1. You should be able to just straighten the bent capacitor without any issue, they should be standing parallel to each other. The leads should be visible, just make sure they are not broken or touching anything.
  2. There shouldn't be any problem with the large capacitors as long as they are still tight to the board. There should be some white stabilizing goo at the base of these capacitors to keep them upright and steady.
  3. The optical port should be flush with the board. It actually has pins that snap through to the bottom and three solder pads on one side. It's possible that it just popped out and may need to be snapped back in.
If you have a multi-meter, you can do a quick check to see if any of the leads have separated from the solder pads on the board.
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post #709 of 716 Old 12-17-2016, 10:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Dago Red View Post
I have the same board sitting in front of me, now. It came directly from Pioneer many years ago and was not in a box, only bubble wrap. To help answer your questions...
  1. You should be able to just straighten the bent capacitor without any issue, they should be standing parallel to each other. The leads should be visible, just make sure they are not broken or touching anything.
  2. There shouldn't be any problem with the large capacitors as long as they are still tight to the board. There should be some white stabilizing goo at the base of these capacitors to keep them upright and steady.
  3. The optical port should be flush with the board. It actually has pins that snap through to the bottom and three solder pads on one side. It's possible that it just popped out and may need to be snapped back in.
If you have a multi-meter, you can do a quick check to see if any of the leads have separated from the solder pads on the board.
Thank you for the response, this is great! I'll look over the capacitors to make sure the leads are OK. I guess something is definitely not right with the optical port. Yesterday I did try to put some pressure on it to see if it would snap in to the board and it didn't, but now I'm going to look for the pins and solder to see if anything is broken. If it looks okay I'm going to try a little more pressure to see if I can get it to snap in.

Also I wouldn't mind grabbing a multi-meter and giving it a test before I dismantle my massive 60" kuro. Any way you can explain how this is done? Sorry, I've never really worked with circuit boards beyond basic swaps inside a computer (ram, video cards etc).

Thanks again.
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post #710 of 716 Old 12-18-2016, 09:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Patios View Post
Thank you for the response, this is great! I'll look over the capacitors to make sure the leads are OK. I guess something is definitely not right with the optical port. Yesterday I did try to put some pressure on it to see if it would snap in to the board and it didn't, but now I'm going to look for the pins and solder to see if anything is broken. If it looks okay I'm going to try a little more pressure to see if I can get it to snap in.

Also I wouldn't mind grabbing a multi-meter and giving it a test before I dismantle my massive 60" kuro. Any way you can explain how this is done? Sorry, I've never really worked with circuit boards beyond basic swaps inside a computer (ram, video cards etc).

Thanks again.
I tried to take a picture of the board below the optical port. You can see the two black plastic clips that protrude through the square holes in the board that hold the port flush with the surface. The three solder pins are to the right of the clips and correspond to the leads on the end of the port housing.



To check the connections with a multi-meter, either set it for continuity test or ohm test and touch a lead to the solder pad on the bottom of the board and to the corresponding component lead. Either a beep or zero ohms should indicate that the lead is still making contact with the board. If the leads look intact and the solder pads are clean and tight to the board, this shouldn't be an issue.
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post #711 of 716 Old 01-08-2017, 03:59 AM
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Arrow

where are you guys getting these AWW1353 boards now. Seems like all the sources have dried up. Found used one on ebay, got lucky.

So from what I read is that if we just add this resistor to the org. board instead of replacing we'd get the same results.

add resistor here in red;



use this resistor; (10K 0402 resistor 1/16th wattage)

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/500p...440746360.html

can someone thats completed this confirm this!?!

Last edited by Pir8pete; 01-09-2017 at 11:16 PM.
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post #712 of 716 Old 01-09-2017, 11:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Patios View Post
I managed to get my hands on an aww1353 and will perform the elite swap on my 6020 soon. The problem is that it looks like the site that hosted the guide written by wrinklefree is no more. Can anyone send me the guide directly or send a new link? I'm hoping somebody saved it locally on their computer.

I'm looking for the same if someone could upload it please or past a new link
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post #713 of 716 Old 01-16-2017, 02:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pir8pete View Post
where are you guys getting these AWW1353 boards now. Seems like all the sources have dried up. Found used one on ebay, got lucky.

So from what I read is that if we just add this resistor to the org. board instead of replacing we'd get the same results.

add resistor here in red;



use this resistor; (10K 0402 resistor 1/16th wattage)

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/500p...440746360.html

can someone thats completed this confirm this!?!

c'on guys someone must know this question? I even msged this guy -> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pioneer-IO-C...o/112208108838 and he won't reply.
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post #714 of 716 Old 01-26-2017, 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by DailyWest View Post
I have an AWW1352 board, it came from my 6020 when I changed mine to an "Elite".
Dear DWest,


Do you still have the AWW1352 from your 6020 for sale?


Regards, GS
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post #715 of 716 Old 01-30-2017, 06:11 AM
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Dear Pir8pete,


Thank you for the offer, however I was able to find a board on ebay (used from an old pdp5020). Received it last Friday, replaced it and 'voilá'! TV is running perfect.


G
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post #716 of 716 Old 01-30-2017, 08:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gugasilveira View Post
Dear Pir8pete,


Thank you for the offer, however I was able to find a board on ebay (used from an old pdp5020). Received it last Friday, replaced it and 'voilá'! TV is running perfect.


G

yeah but where you looking to have all the Elite picture adjustments or just to replace the one in your TV cuz it was faulty ? then yeah those board / tv's are easier to find!!!! ;/ point of this thread/ and mod is to have more adjustments
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