Philips 42PF5321D-37 no picture/no sound. HELP! - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 9 Old 02-22-2010, 12:32 PM - Thread Starter
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Hi everyone, new to this forum and i have a problem, like the title states. I just recently picked up this Philips plasma set from a guy who posted this on Craigslist. He said he was watching it one day, it was perfectly fine and turned it off to go to sleep and he woke up and went to go turn it on and it had no picture and no sound. He decided he didnt wanna deal with it so i figured i'd give it a shot.

So i got it home and fired it up. It turns on fine, the green light comes on and stays on the entire time. It clicks on, sounds like its going to fire up, the sound cuts in for about 2 seconds, then goes back off and you can hear it "click" like its turning off. The green light stays on the entire time the TV is on though. No red LED's at all. So i flipped it around, took the back off and took a look. I turned it on and a few green LED's click on, then after the 2 seconds of sound, they click off. Then there is one green LED on the PSU that blinks. It blinks 3 times, and underneath the LED it has the codes for each blink. The 3 blink that i have refers to "VSCAN". Which i honestly have no idea. I have no sound and no picture at all. I decided to turn the system on while the light was blinking and took all the connections to the PSU (SX, SY, BUFFERS, ect.)off to see if the blinking would stop, nothing. Kept blinking, the only thing that made the blinking stop was disconnecting the AC connection.

Now what i did do was i turned the system off. I took the connection that goes to the "Main Logic Board" to the PSU off at the PSU. I then turned the system on and waited a couple minutes, then plugged the connection back into the PSU and i had sound, perfectly. I could even change the volume and the channel with the remote, but still...no hint of a picture at all. Thats as far as i have gotten at this point.

Now the last thing id like to say is, there are some empty connectors. I have no clue if there is something supposed to be plugged into these empty ones or not so that is why i took some pictures (below) so you can kind of get an idea of what i mean.

i hope someone can help figure out what the problem is, this is a nice TV and would love to be able to fix it, especially if i can do it myself.
Thanks.



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post #2 of 9 Old 02-22-2010, 06:18 PM - Thread Starter
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bump

anyone have any ideas? im stumped!
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post #3 of 9 Old 02-23-2010, 07:58 AM - Thread Starter
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anyone?
any thoughts or opinions are greatly appreciated, i do not want to have to take this thing into a shop and get over priced to fix it.

thanks
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post #4 of 9 Old 02-23-2010, 10:36 AM
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If your Tv is turning on with a green light and does not go to a blinking read light then the power board should be a assumed to be working. I would not worry about the empty connectors as the power boards are universal for a bunch of different models that would require different cables to be there.
The model you have has Samsung panel and boards other than the power and video board. Since you are getting no picture I would bet you need a new Y-Main board. Listen carefully from behind the set when its on, listen for a light repetative clicking noise.. thats a symptum of a bad board. If you were getting a light fuzzy speckle on the screen or some picture that may show up after 5-10 mins of staying on. then you would need the X-main board.. the X-main and y-main are the boards on the left and right of the panel with the big heat sinks on em..

Mad
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post #5 of 9 Old 02-23-2010, 03:21 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maddigital View Post

If your Tv is turning on with a green light and does not go to a blinking read light then the power board should be a assumed to be working. I would not worry about the empty connectors as the power boards are universal for a bunch of different models that would require different cables to be there.
The model you have has Samsung panel and boards other than the power and video board. Since you are getting no picture I would bet you need a new Y-Main board. Listen carefully from behind the set when its on, listen for a light repetative clicking noise.. thats a symptum of a bad board. If you were getting a light fuzzy speckle on the screen or some picture that may show up after 5-10 mins of staying on. then you would need the X-main board.. the X-main and y-main are the boards on the left and right of the panel with the big heat sinks on em..

Mad

thanks a lot.
Yeah there is no blinking red light at all, and i assumed the power supply was good since the light was coming on green and staying on. It clicks like its going to come on but nothing happens. The set turns on and you can hear the sound for a split second so i figured the power supply wasnt bad. Do you think its just the Main Y Board and not the buffers as well? Like i said before though, there is no picture at all, no fuzzyness, no pixels, nothing. And i will check to see if i can hear the clicking noise in the board to see if the board is bad like you said.

Anymore opinions on this at all?
greatly appreciated, thank you.
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post #6 of 9 Old 02-24-2010, 08:25 PM - Thread Starter
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anyone else got anything on this?
I wasn't able to hear any faint "clicking" noises while the TV was on coming from the boards. The only noise i heard was from the alarm code, LED flashing 3 times for the VSCAN thing. I've had another person on another forum say that it could possibly the X board, but im with the guy above me...i'd rather take my chances and go with the Y board instead.

I need some more opinions on this, if not in a week or so im going to be buying a new Y board of the internet and trying it, would really like to have more of a reassurance that i am right about it being the Y board.

Thanks guys.
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post #7 of 9 Old 02-25-2010, 03:39 PM
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You wont know if the buffers are bad until the Y board is replaced to at least produce a picture. Ive repaired 5 Phillips with the same issue. 2 of them wound up having bad buffers after bringing the picture back by replacing the y board.
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post #8 of 9 Old 02-28-2010, 06:24 PM - Thread Starter
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thanks a lot Mad.
found a Y bored on shopjimmy.com for around $110 shipped, so hopefully thats what will do it. Im hoping if this brings the picture back, that im not gonna have to buy new buffers as well. But if it does then so be it, their not too expensive.

Appreciate all the help Mad.
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post #9 of 9 Old 04-09-2010, 03:20 PM
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Did the changing of the Y board work?
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