The Official 2010 Panasonic Settings/Issues Thread - Page 10 - AVS Forum
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post #271 of 5012 Old 04-19-2010, 04:28 PM
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I received my P54G25 today and started the 100 hour break in. I have a quick question. I noticed that during the slide presentation there is about a 1/4 inch black border between the plastic bezel and where the picture image starts. Is this normal or should I change something in the settings? I followed to a "T" all of the settings listed in D-nice's first post to this thread. I'm just wondering if that quarter inch black border between the plastic bezel and the illuminated pixels should be there? Also I'd like to thank D-nice for posting the break in and calibration info.!
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post #272 of 5012 Old 04-19-2010, 04:38 PM
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And just FYI - as far as the "buzzing" issue is concerned it's very negligible on my set. I can hear a slight buzz right behind my set but a foot or two in front of it it's barely discernable.
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post #273 of 5012 Old 04-19-2010, 06:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tevallen View Post

I received my P54G25 today and started the 100 hour break in. I have a quick question. I noticed that during the slide presentation there is about a 1/4 inch black border between the plastic bezel and where the picture image starts. Is this normal or should I change something in the settings? I followed to a "T" all of the settings listed in D-nice's first post to this thread. I'm just wondering if that quarter inch black border between the plastic bezel and the illuminated pixels should be there? Also I'd like to thank D-nice for posting the break in and calibration info.!

Can you zoom out to get rid of the last quarter inch? I am taking delivery of the same set tomorrow, please keep me posted as I expect to do the same break in procedure.
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post #274 of 5012 Old 04-19-2010, 07:58 PM
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I set "slideshow settings" --> "photo size" to "zoom" and I still have the border. It's approximately a 4 pixel border from the end of the plastic bezel to the first illuminated pixel around the entire image. This could of course be entirely natural depending on the design of the television. I'm just trying to confirm this. There may naturally be a "blank" space of a 1/4 inch before the first illuminated pixel around the image. I'm just trying to confirm this and ensure that I'm running the break in slides correctly.

Just a side note though. Just judging from the slides this set displays a gorgeous image! You have to get right up to it and look from the side to discern any anomalies in the slides. I can't wait to see an actual blu ray image on it!
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post #275 of 5012 Old 04-20-2010, 01:51 PM
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Can someone post the method to display the (still hexadecimal?) number of hours of operation that the panel TC-p50g20 has, or a link to it? Thanks.
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post #276 of 5012 Old 04-20-2010, 03:16 PM
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I just ordered tx-p50g20.

I have few guestions:

1. Advanced settings menu you can get with enabling ISFccc and Service menu is different thing, right? What is the difference?

2. If I change my settings in Advanced settings menu can I reset it to default if I want?

3. Can I have good results with Advanced settings calibration and not going in service menu?
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post #277 of 5012 Old 04-21-2010, 09:04 AM
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Ok so i have a 46 s2 and i entered the service menu, wrote down the default settings but as i am a noob at this i got three questions

1. How do you save and exit the service menu is there a right or wrong way?

2. On the settings for the s2 D-Nice has "3:2 pulldown" set to "on" however i cannot enable i on my tv, could someone tell me how to do this?

3. Is there an order to applying the settings for instance doing the settings in service menu first then the regular tv picture settings or vice versa?

I just want to make sure i do it right
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post #278 of 5012 Old 04-21-2010, 10:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DEMORIK View Post

Ok so i have a 46 s2 and i entered the service menu, wrote down the default settings but as i am a noob at this i got three questions

1. How do you save and exit the service menu is there a right or wrong way?

2. On the settings for the s2 D-Nice has "3:2 pulldown" set to "on" however i cannot enable i on my tv, could someone tell me how to do this?

3. Is there an order to applying the settings for instance doing the settings in service menu first then the regular tv picture settings or vice versa?

I just want to make sure i do it right


Did you read through this:

http://kotisivu.dnainternet.fi/marko...on%20guide.pdf
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post #279 of 5012 Old 04-21-2010, 11:04 AM
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Has anyone tried to play a movie with Viera Tools media player? I used a jump drive to try and get an avi to play but it doesnt seem to recognize avi's. Anyone have any suggestions?
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post #280 of 5012 Old 04-21-2010, 04:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fmzip View Post

Did you read through this:

http://kotisivu.dnainternet.fi/marko...on%20guide.pdf

You are the best thanks a lot.
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post #281 of 5012 Old 04-21-2010, 06:37 PM
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Originally Posted by wunderhund View Post

D-Nice -- thanks for the corrected settings! WB looks good. THX flesh tones still a little green to me, so I've nudged the tint four clicks to the red. That may have more to do with the varying broadcast quality on cable, because it's less of an issue with Blu-Ray playback.

42G25 Cinema>HD>Warm
WB-ADJ MENU Original Values New Values
R-DRV: -1 FF FE
G-DRV: -8 FF F7
B-DRV: +4 8A 8E
R-CUT: -8 7E 76
G-CUT: 0 80 80
B-CUT: +3 83 86

Cheers.

My results were different on the P50G20-

Originals New
R-DRV: -1 ED EC
G-DRV: -8 FF F7 <-match
B-DRV: +4 86 8A
R-CUT: -8 7E 76 <-match
G-CUT: 0 80 80
B-CUT: +3 7F 82

Thats what I came up with, and this is a factory settings TV. I don't know how to reset it all to double check :P
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post #282 of 5012 Old 04-22-2010, 10:00 AM
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I should be getting my 54" VT25 today. Can anyone recommend some settings during the break-in period?

And as a side-note, are D-Nice's settings a "replacement" for actual ISF Calibration, or just his way being nice enough to provide us all with improved settings that don't quite match up to actual ISF calibration?
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post #283 of 5012 Old 04-22-2010, 11:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by archangel37 View Post

I should be getting my 54" VT25 today. Can anyone recommend some settings during the break-in period?

And as a side-note, are D-Nice's settings a "replacement" for actual ISF Calibration, or just his way being nice enough to provide us all with improved settings that don't quite match up to actual ISF calibration?

The latter.


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post #284 of 5012 Old 04-22-2010, 12:48 PM
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The latter.

That's what I thought, thanks!
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post #285 of 5012 Old 04-22-2010, 12:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by archangel37 View Post

And as a side-note, are D-Nice's settings a "replacement" for actual ISF Calibration, or just his way being nice enough to provide us all with improved settings that don't quite match up to actual ISF calibration?

D-Nice hasn't posted settings for VT20/25 yet. What do you mean by "don't quite match up to actual ISF calibration"? He basically performs an ISF calibration and posts the settings he ended up at. Now because each display is different and results vary in each home where the TV resides, his settings will not be optimal for your particular set/place.


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post #286 of 5012 Old 04-22-2010, 12:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkcheng122 View Post

D-Nice hasn't posted settings for VT20/25 yet. What do you mean by "don't quite match up to actual ISF calibration"? He basically performs an ISF calibration and posts the settings he ended up at. Now because each display is different and results vary in each home where the TV resides, his settings will not be optimal for your particular set/place.

What I mean is what nicholc2 suggested - whether his settings were a stand-in for paying for ISF calibration or not. Meaning, is it reasonable to use D-Nice's settings and also pay for separate ISF calibration? If D-Nice's settings are meant to be full out replacements, then he's saving all 2010 Panasonic owners hundreds of dollars. I'd prefer that, of course.

As for the VT25 settings, I'm aware there are no post-break in settings, but I wasn't reading carefully enough to note that the break-in settings (which I wanted) in the first post were for the VT25 as well. That's what I was looking for.
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post #287 of 5012 Old 04-22-2010, 01:09 PM
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Been wondering about this but can't seem to find the answer in the break-in thread. When running the slides, is it bad to run the slides continuously for the duration of the break-in say 100 to 120 hours? Or should the TV but turned off every now and then which would take longer than 100 to 120 hours to actually break in properly?


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post #288 of 5012 Old 04-22-2010, 01:15 PM
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Nevermind, I figured it had something to do with my use of a Mac. I reformatted the card under Windows and put in the slides again and it works fine. Thanks anyway!
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post #289 of 5012 Old 04-22-2010, 01:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by archangel37 View Post

Meaning, is it reasonable to use D-Nice's settings and also pay for separate ISF calibration? If D-Nice's settings are meant to be full out replacements, then he's saving all 2010 Panasonic owners hundreds of dollars. I'd prefer that, of course.

It is reasonable to pay for ISF calibration even if you're currently using D-Nice's settings. Biggest reason being each set from the factory is different so settings for one display will not be as accurate for another display. Sometimes they come close, sometimes they don't. They'll certainly look better than factory default settings but will not compare to having a pro calibration work on your display.

On my Kuro before I started doing my own calibration I used D-Nice's settings. When I calibrated myself the resulting settings I arrived at were fairly different from what he had.


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post #290 of 5012 Old 04-22-2010, 02:11 PM
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There is a long black line that has developed, especially bad during the break-in slides. I also see it during normal TV watching. This is brand new and the IR wipe doesn't fix it.

Ideas? Just got a lemon?

Ok, I just got off the phone with Panasonic and they suggested resetting it by unplugging it. I did so, and then plugged it back into the wall outlet. That worked fine. I unplugged it and put it back into my Tripp Lite home theater surge protector and the line reappeared! Seems to be tied to that, somehow. As of this moment, when it's plugged into the wall, there's no line like in the photo. Boggles my mind.

Guess it's time for a new surge protector.

UPDATE: There is definitely something wrong. Even when plugged into the wall, the line reappeared. Bummer. So much for breaking this one in.
LL
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post #291 of 5012 Old 04-23-2010, 05:52 AM
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That doesn't look good or normal at all. I have had my G20 for a month now and have never seen a black line like that. I'd day you got a bad one.
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post #292 of 5012 Old 04-23-2010, 07:49 AM
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Could someone please tell me why i cant turn 3:2 pulldown on, its greyed out on my 46 s2, i have tried switching through the different picture modes and even switching from ps3 to bluray player. From what i understand this should help with the horrible motion judder i have been experiencing with this set even while gaming, could someone guide me please.
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post #293 of 5012 Old 04-23-2010, 08:02 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DEMORIK View Post

Could someone please tell me why i cant turn 3:2 pulldown on, its greyed out on my 46 s2, i have tried switching through the different picture modes and even switching from ps3 to bluray player. From what i understand this should help with the horrible motion judder i have been experiencing with this set even while gaming, could someone guide me please.

What resolution are you sending the panel as it is only available for certian resolutions?


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post #294 of 5012 Old 04-23-2010, 08:10 AM
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Originally Posted by jkcheng122 View Post

Been wondering about this but can't seem to find the answer in the break-in thread. When running the slides, is it bad to run the slides continuously for the duration of the break-in say 100 to 120 hours? Or should the TV but turned off every now and then which would take longer than 100 to 120 hours to actually break in properly?

I personally wouldnt run my set for 100 hrs straight , i ran the slides in between regular use which added up to 5 hrs of use per day, all i did was separate my regular watching hours from the hours running the slide(i logged the hours). After 100 hours of the slide i applied the settings D-Nice posted and i was stunned, everything looks so real, like he said it wont compare to a real calibration but i wont need a real one thanks to him.
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post #295 of 5012 Old 04-23-2010, 08:11 AM
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Originally Posted by D-Nice View Post

What resolution are you sending the panel as it is only available for certian resolutions?

I am sending 1080p to the panel.
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post #296 of 5012 Old 04-23-2010, 08:14 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by DEMORIK View Post

I am sending 1080p to the panel.

Thats your problem. Try a different resolution.


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post #297 of 5012 Old 04-23-2010, 08:16 AM
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Originally Posted by D-Nice View Post

Thats your problem. Try a different resolution.

Ok im doing that right now, do you think it would help with the motion judder?
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post #298 of 5012 Old 04-23-2010, 08:29 AM
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Ok so i tried different resolutions and the 3:2 pulldown switched to auto for a second then went back to the off position, but i noticed the info on it says " non-hdmi " so i am assuming that it wont work for hdmi inputs, guess im screwed.
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post #299 of 5012 Old 04-23-2010, 11:11 AM
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(I also posted this in the S2 thread, but hardly anyone reads it).

As of late, I'm less and less enjoying the picture on my TC-P42S2. I calibrated my TV already to get the best picture I can out of it, but last night was the worst. I don't have an picture processing features on like DRE or CATS, etc. The TV is in my bedroom with little to no light on. I was watching 30 Rock through my DirecTV HD receiver and the picture was very dark and drowned out. I lost 50% of the detail of the picture because it was so dim. It was if I had taken a TV and reduced brightness and contrast to zero. It was bad enough that the only way I could get any sort of decent picture back was to switch to VIVID mode and do my best to balance the contrast and brightness. Not all channels and programs were this bad, but they weren't that much better either.

Also, when watching a commercial or news spot, I would see a great detailed picture for a split second when the news spot faded out to go to commercial. Suddenly the detail returned, but only for that one second.

I've never had a TV look this awful naturally. I'm just not happy. It's making me want to return it for an LCD.

Also, something I noticed about my tc-p42s2 is that if I switch picture mode to STANDARD, the brightness fluctuates and flutters. This is even with CATS turned off. I'm trying to think of what I should do. Worth swapping out at the retail store or is this a "feature" of this model of Panasonic TV?
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post #300 of 5012 Old 04-23-2010, 05:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shears View Post

(I also posted this in the S2 thread, but hardly anyone reads it).

As of late, I'm less and less enjoying the picture on my TC-P42S2. I calibrated my TV already to get the best picture I can out of it, but last night was the worst. I don't have an picture processing features on like DRE or CATS, etc. The TV is in my bedroom with little to no light on. I was watching 30 Rock through my DirecTV HD receiver and the picture was very dark and drowned out. I lost 50% of the detail of the picture because it was so dim. It was if I had taken a TV and reduced brightness and contrast to zero. It was bad enough that the only way I could get any sort of decent picture back was to switch to VIVID mode and do my best to balance the contrast and brightness. Not all channels and programs were this bad, but they weren't that much better either.

Also, when watching a commercial or news spot, I would see a great detailed picture for a split second when the news spot faded out to go to commercial. Suddenly the detail returned, but only for that one second.

I've never had a TV look this awful naturally. I'm just not happy. It's making me want to return it for an LCD.

Also, something I noticed about my tc-p42s2 is that if I switch picture mode to STANDARD, the brightness fluctuates and flutters. This is even with CATS turned off. I'm trying to think of what I should do. Worth swapping out at the retail store or is this a "feature" of this model of Panasonic TV?

I feel your pain, maybe its a defective set? i have a s2 it has not done anything like what you have described so it would be hard to say if its a problem with the model, keep searching around the forum and online if you could find anyone with the same problem.
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