The Official 2010 Panasonic Settings/Issues Thread - Page 13 - AVS Forum
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post #361 of 5012 Old 04-29-2010, 11:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hydrogin View Post

Read this thread from the beginning, there is a link reference to SM instructions written by Mistah_G (or a name similar to that).

I wouldn't bother trying to decipher time used from the SM. Just keep track of it yourself with pen & paper. It doesn't have to be exactly 100 hours.

Went into the SM. Not as scary as I thought.

I had a time of 14592:00. I divided it by 256 and it worked out to 57 hours.

I don't know if I did that right, but it works out to being right about what I thought the TV was at.
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post #362 of 5012 Old 04-29-2010, 05:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hydrogin View Post

Read this thread from the beginning, there is a link reference to SM instructions written by Mistah_G (or a name similar to that).

I wouldn't bother trying to decipher time used from the SM. Just keep track of it yourself with pen & paper. It doesn't have to be exactly 100 hours.

Okay, so I've read through Mista_g's service menu guide and I have one outstanding question.

In his guide he has us changing the off-sets in all warm, cool, and normal (for both HD and SD).

Do we have to do that also? Or do we only do it for warm2 (for both HD and SD, of course).
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post #363 of 5012 Old 04-30-2010, 02:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by corksens View Post

Okay, so I've read through Mista_g's service menu guide and I have one outstanding question.

In his guide he has us changing the off-sets in all warm, cool, and normal (for both HD and SD).

Do we have to do that also? Or do we only do it for warm2 (for both HD and SD, of course).

Just for the warm2 color temperature. See my post #310 for background info.


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post #364 of 5012 Old 04-30-2010, 06:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hydrogin View Post

Correct. The big picture that is important to understand is ... D-Nice calibrated his G20/G25 for the Warm color temp and is offering the resulting white balance settings for that temp only. I seem to recall D-Nice saying somewhere that warm is the only temp he/she uses.

The PDF, on the other hand, contains settings resulting from calibration of a different Panasonic model at three (not one) color temps because that's what the calibrator chose to do. This is why you see steps for changing settings for three color temps. The information you want to take away from the PDF is how to operate the G20/G25 SM in order to set the values D-Nice came up with. The specific post-calibration settings in the PDF should be ignored.

By the way, there is no reason why anyone shouldn't change D-Nice's settings if they don't please you. Most folks have no way of knowing objectively what the "right" settings are anyways, so you might as well use D-Nice's settings as a baseline to tweak from to get something that you subjectively like, IMO.

Well shoot.

So I really only needed to do it for warm because that would cover (warm and warm2).

Good thing I took pictures of everything, because I applied the offsets to HD and SD for all three temperature settings.

Any harm in just leaving them as is?
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post #365 of 5012 Old 04-30-2010, 03:50 PM
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Is it just me or do the American G20's have a superior amount of settings to alter? I have a EU G20 and sure, I can change a lot. But we EU-guys don't have settings to adjust things like:

Tint
C.A.T.S
Blur Reduction
Color temp adjustment in THX mode
No Warm2 color temp, only Cool, Normal, Warm are present
Color Management switch
x.v. Color
Photo enhancement
Black Extension
Panel brightness (only a normal brightness slider in the EU picture menu)
Contour Emphasis
ACG
Block NR
Mosquito NR
Black level
3:2 pulldown

I really can not find any of these things in menu's and as you can see it's quite a list! Maybe some of these settings are there under different labels but most are definately missing.

It just seems like our G20's are dumbed down when it comes to making adjustments, heck we don't even have 100 step sliders, ours go to 60 max so it's impossible to base the settings on the NA G20's to begin with. It's really annoying that the menu's differ to greatly because apparently D-nice's settings are great for most people. Such a shame...

And for the record: Yes I did activate the ISF menu for the advanced options but that menu only add's options for RBG color correction and white balance (in custom mode, which is Professional1 and Professional2 for EU G20's).

Does anyone have any idea why these large differences are there in the first place? I really have the feeling that I'm missing some essential stuff for correct calibration and that kinda sucks.
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post #366 of 5012 Old 05-01-2010, 03:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Forsakeneyes View Post

Is it just me or do the American G20's have a superior amount of settings to alter? I have a EU G20 and sure, I can change a lot. But we EU-guys don't have settings to adjust things like:

Tint
C.A.T.S
Blur Reduction
Color temp adjustment in THX mode
No Warm2 color temp, only Cool, Normal, Warm are present
Color Management switch
x.v. Color
Photo enhancement
Black Extension
Panel brightness (only a normal brightness slider in the EU picture menu)
Contour Emphasis
ACG
Block NR
Mosquito NR
Black level
3:2 pulldown

I really can not find any of these things in menu's and as you can see it's quite a list! Maybe some of these settings are there under different labels but most are definately missing.

It just seems like our G20's are dumbed down when it comes to making adjustments, heck we don't even have 100 step sliders, ours go to 60 max so it's impossible to base the settings on the NA G20's to begin with. It's really annoying that the menu's differ to greatly because apparently D-nice's settings are great for most people. Such a shame...

And for the record: Yes I did activate the ISF menu for the advanced options but that menu only add's options for RBG color correction and white balance (in custom mode, which is Professional1 and Professional2 for EU G20's).

Does anyone have any idea why these large differences are there in the first place? I really have the feeling that I'm missing some essential stuff for correct calibration and that kinda sucks.

Here in Spain C.A.T.S. is called Eco Mode... May be the rest have another name too.
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post #367 of 5012 Old 05-01-2010, 05:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Super Rey View Post

Here in Spain C.A.T.S. is called Eco Mode... May be the rest have another name too.

You are right, it's indeed eco mode. And I guess 'Blur Reduction' might be 'Intelligent
Frame
Creation' over here but I'm not sure. And 'x.v. Color' is probably the 'Vivid Colors' setting over here. But that still doesn't change the fact a lot of other options simply have no EU equivalent like 'Black Level', 'Tint'. 'Panel Brightness' (not to be confused with the normal brightness setting) and a Warm2 color setting.

Also the 60 step sliders are an issue. You can't simply convert them to american value's by deviding them through 100 and then multiplying with the american number. If I do that I end up with really muted colors, moreso than in the unadjusted THX mode (I tried it at night with no lights).

I'm really thinking of returning the set because I notice the flickering a lot and I'm probably too picky to cope with floating blacks, possible rising blacks and excessive phosphor trailing. Sin City suffers greatly from yellow flashes and it ruins the otherwise *excellent* PQ for me.

It's such a shame because even though regular cable TV looks dull, HD PQ on this set is quite amazing. And no noticeable input lag either! There just doesn't seem to be a good 1k plasma alternative to the Panasonic except for the LG's but they suffer from input lag via HDMI a great deal. I game quite a bit so that would be unacceptable.
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post #368 of 5012 Old 05-01-2010, 06:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by msmCutter View Post

Me too.

I must say, I really like the picture after folling the D-Nice procedure. The woman thought I was crazy not using a TV for 4+ days but running it the whole time. I don't know what it looked like before breakin/calibration, and I'm probably bet off that way!

If you lost your default settings someone posted them earlier. I wrote mine down and they matched what was posted.

Do you also have a G20 NA model. would you be so kind to posting the default settings in the SM. I wanna make sure everything is at its original settings. Thank you.
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post #369 of 5012 Old 05-02-2010, 07:12 PM
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So here's something really weird. I have a new G20, went through the 100+ hour break-in, adjusted the SM to D-Nice's offsets, taking photos of the before and after or everything... I did the offsets a week ago. Today, I went into the SM just to make sure everything had saved correctly...and the #s for B-CUT, R-DRV, all of them are all different. Not back to where they'd been originally, not where I'd set them...but they'd adjusted themselves to some third setting. For both Cinema and Custom.

For example, B-CUT had originally been at 7F. +3 took it to 82. Today it's at 85. R-CUT was originally at 7E. -8 took it to 76. Today it's at 6E.

Did I not save it correctly or something? I followed mistah_g's guide, which says you save it by holding down the power button on the TV itself...

Anyone have any idea what's going on here?
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post #370 of 5012 Old 05-02-2010, 07:15 PM
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I was following along until I read this:

The WB Method Select option should be set to 00 instead of 03.


What does this sentence refer to?
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post #371 of 5012 Old 05-02-2010, 09:23 PM
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Loving the G20 after using the 100 hour break-in slides and D-Nice's calibration settings. Avatar on BD was incredible!!!

However, I did run into the AVSHD download on this site. Burned it and checked it out. It showed some improvements could be made to avoid "clipping". Needed to adjust the contrast and brightness a little bit. Also noticed a bit of adjustment could be done for the red, blue and green.

So, a couple questions:

1. Do you think these minor adjustments are just because each configuration is TV specific? Personally, I'm not sure I notice a huge difference, but psychologically I know that I have a few more shades of gray and white that are not clipping anymore.

2. If I get pairs of red, blue and green filters, what settings would I adjust to dial those colors in?

I feel like I'm turning into a 1080p junky!!! I love this site! Thanks for all the insight.
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post #372 of 5012 Old 05-03-2010, 01:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fmzip View Post

I was following along until I read this:

The WB Method Select option should be set to 00 instead of 03.


What does this sentence refer to?

Are you asking what that function does or how you change its value??

If you meant the former, see post #25.

If you meant the latter, its right there in the service menu (see attached, use button 0 to select). Mine was already set to 00 so didn't need to to be changed.
LL


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post #373 of 5012 Old 05-03-2010, 02:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by corksens View Post

Well shoot.

So I really only needed to do it for warm because that would cover (warm and warm2).

Good thing I took pictures of everything, because I applied the offsets to HD and SD for all three temperature settings.

Any harm in just leaving them as is?

Probably not if you're like me and don't use Coo1, Cool2, and Normal. If you hang on to the photos, you can always backtrack later.


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post #374 of 5012 Old 05-03-2010, 05:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hydrogin View Post

Are you asking what that function does or how you change its value??

If you meant the former, see post #25.

If you meant the latter, its right there in the service menu (see attached, use button 0 to select). Mine was already set to 00 so didn't need to to be changed.

Thank you! Will be adjusting the settings tonight!

Ran the slides for the 100 hours, finally finished installing my recessed articulating plasma wall mount! Hung the 54g25 and watched some HDTV on Directv in THX mode....all I have to say is WOW! Can't wait to see the final improvements from the tweaking
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post #375 of 5012 Old 05-03-2010, 11:46 AM
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This thread is like Deja Vu from D-Nice's G12 settings thread... Wow.

empty placeholder post for "V10 / VT25 settings" and all...


1) you dont have to run breakin slides. In fact after seeing how blacklevels went to scheiss on 2009 models, i would totally recommend you DONT run the slides. That's 100+ hours of less enjoyment before it changes.

2) any accesses to the service menu _MAY_ void your warrenty. So unless you are a calibrator with a photo device, you should NOT change the colors in the service menu. One screw up, and you will be SOL. Some people with 2009 models had their warrenty revoked due to them playing in the service menu.

3) any settings posted on here are 'for their set at that point in time".
we already know that blacks get brighter after as few as 100 hours.

4) Looking at LArry's greyscales images, it looks exactly the same as the 2009 models (where there's a green push). How can that be ? Whatever the case, the proper answer is to hire a calibrator to fix greyscale. Emails and calls to panasonic will get you no-where. Even on the modes that are NOT user-serviceable like THX mode.

5) Enjoy it before your blacks become bright...

6) Eye 1 Display LT is a great purchase.
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post #376 of 5012 Old 05-04-2010, 06:41 PM
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Hi I'm a noob and I've just ordered my TC-P50G25... I pretty much understand most of what D-Nice is advising. I'm going to run the slideshow for 100 hrs straight from pulling it out the box.. (gonna be hard !!!! but i'm going for it!) Then after that, just set the reference settings as advised in the 'TC-PxxG20/25 Reference Settings' post.



OK now for my noob question... How do i get into the service menu... AND what does this mean?

Note: These offsets must be entered for both Color matrixes. You access the different matrixes by using a 1080i/p signal for the HD matrix and 480i/p signal for the SD matrix. The WB Method Select option should be set to 00 instead of 03.

I just need a little clarification on that Note: above, so i can confidently know I'm doing the right thing.
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post #377 of 5012 Old 05-04-2010, 09:52 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by defdog99 View Post

This thread is like Deja Vu from D-Nice's G12 settings thread... Wow.

empty placeholder post for "V10 / VT25 settings" and all....

You can pretty much stfu because there will be VT20/VT25 settings posted.... on my time not yours.


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post #378 of 5012 Old 05-04-2010, 10:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Nice View Post

You can pretty much stfu because there will be VT20/VT25 settings posted.... on my time not yours.

Is there a way you can block him from seeing your posts? He doesn't deserve your settings. Granted it appears he won't be accessing the SM anyways. My brother's G20 is still being broken-in, will be looking forward to comparing settings.

What meter are you using for calibrating the Panny's with?


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post #379 of 5012 Old 05-04-2010, 11:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thedoc46 View Post

Hi I'm a noob and I've just ordered my TC-P50G25... I pretty much understand most of what D-Nice is advising. I'm going to run the slideshow for 100 hrs straight from pulling it out the box.. (gonna be hard !!!! but i'm going for it!) Then after that, just set the reference settings as advised in the 'TC-PxxG20/25 Reference Settings' post.



OK now for my noob question... How do i get into the service menu... AND what does this mean?

Note: These offsets must be entered for both Color matrixes. You access the different matrixes by using a 1080i/p signal for the HD matrix and 480i/p signal for the SD matrix. The WB Method Select option should be set to 00 instead of 03.

I just need a little clarification on that Note: above, so i can confidently know I'm doing the right thing.

Congratulations. See post #48 for SM instructions. I highly recommend you skim this entire thread, that's what I did. Most of the answers to your Q's are in perhaps the first 7 or 8 pages. Your last Q was answered by me just a page or two back! Use the thread search function!


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post #380 of 5012 Old 05-05-2010, 02:36 AM
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Probably a dumb question, but i've been watching my slides go by for a while now and they are very grainy/staticy, is this normal? They aren't just big blocks of the color, they are all pretty staticy/grainy. I think the one that suffers the most from this is the Gray slide.


edit* also under the g20/g25 reference settings I don't understand why you have a THX mode as well as a Custom mode. which one do you want us to use?
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post #381 of 5012 Old 05-05-2010, 05:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hydrogin View Post

Congratulations. See post #48 for SM instructions. I highly recommend you skim this entire thread, that's what I did. Most of the answers to your Q's are in perhaps the first 7 or 8 pages. Your last Q was answered by me just a page or two back! Use the thread search function!

OK, for the ease of all the noobs, so you all don't have to drill down 5 threads and then go through the hassle of a mega download site that incidendly tries to trick you into thinking you have a virus so that it uploads some ransomware.. just to get to the calibration guide,

Here is how to get into the service menu.

Hold down the -VOL on your TVand press the INFO button three times on your remote.
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post #382 of 5012 Old 05-05-2010, 11:15 AM
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Sounds like something is wrong Turk. If you have it setup for calibration like the first post says and run those slides, they should be whole screen flat colors.
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post #383 of 5012 Old 05-05-2010, 11:29 AM
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Can someone is laymans terms explain what exactly these options do in the SM ? What exactly is an Offset? From what I'm understanding using D-Nice's configuration, this will get you to about 90% of the sets maximum potential... What I'd also like to know is out of that 90% how much of that is the slides / referernce settings / Service Menu Offsets? What I'm trying to figure out here is if i should risk messing things up by going into the SM, if it only polishes off the final 5% of the 90 %, if you get where I'm coming from? If it only messes around with the color and if you are happy with the color then should you even bother messing with it?

Service Menu Offsets

WB-ADJ MENU
R-DRV: +5
G-DRV: -11
B-DRV: -11
R-CUT: -2
G-CUT: 0
B-CUT: +4
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post #384 of 5012 Old 05-05-2010, 11:36 AM
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Don't let it scare you. It's easy.
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post #385 of 5012 Old 05-05-2010, 11:45 AM
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Just received my TC-P50G20 this morning from BB's. All went well, no buzzing, updated FW no problem. No dead or stuck cells. An hour after receiving the set, I put D-Nice's break-in slides on, 4hrs now.
Thanks to D-Nice and all for this great info..........

JuS a KiL'n tImE, MayHaPs Me tHiNks, TiS kIl'n Me...
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post #386 of 5012 Old 05-05-2010, 12:06 PM
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I have this set on order, and after reading this thread I just have one question so far regarding the picture and SM settings. Do I have to apply these settings to each input that I will be using? ( I'll pretty much just use one of the back hdmi's for cable, side hdmi for my laptop and the SD card slot for AVCHD home videos), I remember I had to do that with my old Sony, is it the same for this set?

Thanks
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post #387 of 5012 Old 05-05-2010, 12:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by msmCutter View Post

Don't let it scare you. It's easy.

Even so, it still would be nice to actually know what exactly we are changing.
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post #388 of 5012 Old 05-05-2010, 01:25 PM
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does the service menu record how many times that it has been accessed?

how does it void warranty if you change it back to what the default settings were?

thanks
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post #389 of 5012 Old 05-05-2010, 01:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thedoc46 View Post

Can someone is laymans terms explain what exactly these options do in the SM ? What exactly is an Offset? From what I'm understanding using D-Nice's configuration, this will get you to about 90% of the sets maximum potential... What I'd also like to know is out of that 90% how much of that is the slides / referernce settings / Service Menu Offsets? What I'm trying to figure out here is if i should risk messing things up by going into the SM, if it only polishes off the final 5% of the 90 %, if you get where I'm coming from? If it only messes around with the color and if you are happy with the color then should you even bother messing with it?

Service Menu Offsets

WB-ADJ MENU
R-DRV: +5
G-DRV: -11
B-DRV: -11
R-CUT: -2
G-CUT: 0
B-CUT: +4

DRV, or drives, commonly are associated with the upper whites. So if you have a white image on screen that is say, 80-90 IRE (crude meaning of IRE is the brightness of a given image) and it is too red, bringing down the R-DRV (red drive) may help alleviate this problem.

CUT, or cuts, refers to the lower end of the IRE spectrum. Meaning, if you have a screen that has a 30 IRE pattern and it is too red, bringing down the R-CUT may alleviate the problem.

Offsets just refer to the amount of button presses on your remote. Because service menu settings differ from set to set, it's often easier to supply people with the amount of button presses. Using the above settings that you posted, go to your R-DRV settings and press Volume (+) on the remote 5 times. It doesn't matter if your values end up on the same as the person you got the settings from, what does matter is that you entered the same amount of button presses. The end result should be similar.

I would recommend making the changes in the service menu simply because the greyscale is typically off out of the box. You'd be amazed at what you considered normal after changing it. Make sure to write all the original settings down in case you ever need to revert back to them. I wouldn't suggest venturing outside of the DRV and CUT areas unless you are checking hours.

Hope that helps.

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post #390 of 5012 Old 05-05-2010, 02:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Big Brad View Post

DRV, or drives, commonly are associated with the upper whites. So if you have a white image on screen that is say, 80-90 IRE (crude meaning of IRE is the brightness of a given image) and it is too red, bringing down the R-DRV (red drive) may help alleviate this problem.

CUT, or cuts, refers to the lower end of the IRE spectrum. Meaning, if you have a screen that has a 30 IRE pattern and it is too red, bringing down the R-CUT may alleviate the problem.

Offsets just refer to the amount of button presses on your remote. Because service menu settings differ from set to set, it's often easier to supply people with the amount of button presses. Using the above settings that you posted, go to your R-DRV settings and press Volume (+) on the remote 5 times. It doesn't matter if your values end up on the same as the person you got the settings from, what does matter is that you entered the same amount of button presses. The end result should be similar.

I would recommend making the changes in the service menu simply because the greyscale is typically off out of the box. You'd be amazed at what you considered normal after changing it. Make sure to write all the original settings down in case you ever need to revert back to them. I wouldn't suggest venturing outside of the DRV and CUT areas unless you are checking hours.

Hope that helps.

Thanks, the hardest part for me is to leave it on the slides for 100hrs.. I'm just not sure i'm going to have the will power to unbox my brand new toy and leave it flasing colors for the next 100hrs while i carry on with normal life..

Is it feasible to just to do 10 sessions of 10hrs? With watching bluray and TV / games inbetween.....Or is it a must that you run it all in one go...
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