The Official 2010 Panasonic Settings/Issues Thread - Page 19 - AVS Forum
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post #541 of 5012 Old 05-31-2010, 10:59 AM
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Quote:


It sounds like what happens when someone uses a MAC to create the slideshow jumpdrive. It apparently adds a companion file to every JPEG file and the TV doesn't recognize those files.


Thanks buddy!
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post #542 of 5012 Old 05-31-2010, 11:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gaangotto View Post

I just recently purchased this set. Of course, the picture looked great in the store, however, when I got it home, that was not the case. Using the "Standard" settings, without any changes, the picture is way too dark and unimpressive. I know there must be some changes I can make to the "Custom" settings that will improve this situation, so I am asking for help from others who may have purchased this same set. Thanks.

Question like this baffle me, did you even read the first couple of posts and try the Cinema settings for the S2?
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post #543 of 5012 Old 05-31-2010, 05:01 PM
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LOL! Nice one

But keep in mind he's only one man and this is an AVS Forums... So probably not. Sorry.



Quote:
Originally Posted by RandyWalters View Post

D-Nice,

Can you tell us if there will ever be world peace?

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post #544 of 5012 Old 05-31-2010, 05:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Chris_B View Post

If they would just firmware update a way to mitigate the too aggressive 'floating back' issue, Panasonic would have a nice TV with the G25/20. The price point for performance is excellent minus this issue.

So is there a consensus that this matter can be fixed via firmware?

Because this black level issue is really taking away from what is otherwise an incredible tv.
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post #545 of 5012 Old 06-01-2010, 02:13 AM
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I just started the break-in slides after about 10 hours of use. A combination of cable (Standard/THX) and xbox. Made sure there weren't any black bars on the picture at any time. Is it ok to play the slides at night 6-8 hours and use the TV for casual viewing during the day 4-8 hours using the default picture modes? Can I combine the slides and casual viewing together to make 100 hours or does the break-in slides need to run a 100 hours by themselves for the best results?
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post #546 of 5012 Old 06-01-2010, 01:35 PM
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Is the settings for the G20 settings I should input into service menu?
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post #547 of 5012 Old 06-01-2010, 04:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EuroCarFan View Post

I just started the break-in slides after about 10 hours of use. A combination of cable (Standard/THX) and xbox. Made sure there weren't any black bars on the picture at any time. Is it ok to play the slides at night 6-8 hours and use the TV for casual viewing during the day 4-8 hours using the default picture modes? Can I combine the slides and casual viewing together to make 100 hours or does the break-in slides need to run a 100 hours by themselves for the best results?

That is exactly what I done.. I'm not an ISF calibrator so i can't tell you for sure if there was any detrimental effects to this strategy. Using common sense I'd say NO.. and I will say.... It looks pretty damn good to me.
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post #548 of 5012 Old 06-01-2010, 04:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Derek Dean View Post

Just to clarify, it seems that each TV is individually tuned at the factory (via the service menu) so that they all leave the factory performing more or less the same. Since the calibration required to achieve this level of uniformity is slightly different for each set, the numbers you see in your service menu will likely be slightly different than some other G20/25 owner's numbers.

That is why D-Nice has so thoughtfully given his setup as a discreet number of clicks up or down for each setting, and also why it is CRITICAL that BEFORE you change anything in the service menu that you either photograph each of the 8 pages in the service menu or write down all the numbers. That way you can always return to your original settings if you get confused and need to start over.

And of course it's vitally important to do the adjustment for both HD and Std sources because, at least in my case, broadcast TV comes in 2 flavors. Most of my over-the-air primary channels are in HD, but the sub channels (8.2, 25.2, 46.2 etc) are all in Std 480i, so I used my best primary HD channel to set my color for the HD matrix (I used the Tonight show, but Wheel of Fortune or David Letterman works good too), and then switched to a sub channel to set the SD matrix.

Personally, for those faint-of-heart, or who are not willing to be methodical, follow the directions EXACTLY, and keep good notes as they go, I would recommend NOT going into the service menu. Just use the the Custom Picture mode and adjust the color in the pro-settings menu. You can get very close doing that, and you don't have to worry about doing a separate setup for both HD and SD channels.

However, I love tweaking, so I followed D-Nice's instructions to the letter and got very good results, but not perfect...... so I returned everything back to the original settings. Then I slowly and methodically began playing with each of the cut and drive (drv) settings (Red,Green, and Blue) until I got a good feel for what each did. I found that the cut settings adjust the relative balance between the 3 primary colors, while the drive settings adjust the intensity of each color present in the image. I was formerly employed as a professional color photographic printer, so I already have a good understanding of color. I like using the flesh tones for my color adjustments, while watching both light areas and dark areas for fine-tuning.

After break-in, my G25 exhibited a fair amount of green and yellow tint, so I simply kept slowly dialing out green and adding blue, just a few clicks at a time. Then I would save it by turning off the set, turn it on again and watch for a while, and then adjust a bit more as needed. The first couple of times I got a bit to far off, so I simply adjusted the settings back to the original start points and started over. After about an hour I got the color almost perfectly tuned.

By the way, I found it's very important to get your brightness, contrast, gamma, panel brightness, etc. set correctly first, because that can affect how things look, and make sure that if you are going to be using the Custom Picture mode that you have all the colors in the Pro-settings menu set to 0 before starting the tuning process..... and above all, make sure that your color temp is set where you want it BEFORE you start.

What's neat is, once you understand that each Color Temp has it's own set of service menu adjustments, you come to realize that this gives you 5 separate completely tunable setups. That lets you tune the color differently for 5 different components if you like, but still allows you to use the Custom Picture mode for each component to adjust gamma, panel brightness, etc. Very flexible indeed! Again, not for those who are easily flustered, but lots of fun for those who like tweaking.

Of course, now that I've got it tuned, it seems to look great using that one setting for both broadcast TV and my Blu-ray/DVD player, both day and night. Go figure.

I do love my G25.

Excellent post Derek... So do you know what your offsets are from standard? and at which temp? I wouldn't mind trying out your settings to compare.
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post #549 of 5012 Old 06-02-2010, 01:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EuroCarFan View Post

I just started the break-in slides after about 10 hours of use. A combination of cable (Standard/THX) and xbox. Made sure there weren't any black bars on the picture at any time. Is it ok to play the slides at night 6-8 hours and use the TV for casual viewing during the day 4-8 hours using the default picture modes? Can I combine the slides and casual viewing together to make 100 hours or does the break-in slides need to run a 100 hours by themselves for the best results?

Dude, read the first 4 pages of this forum carefully. No, you should not mix watching with the break in slides. You should do 100 hrs straight of the slides, then you can watch the TV.

I am on here researching before I buy it, but from experience, when these guys like D Nice explicitly say something, they mean it! If you are not patient, you are on your own and may see issues. When you invest this much on something, it is important to get it right the first time.

I am sure you've got another TV in the house, so just let the Panny run until about Sunday. I am sitting here thinking about the same delimma for when I purchase mine, but I will hook the G25 up in another room alone and continue to watch my old unit until the Panny is ready at 100hrs.
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post #550 of 5012 Old 06-02-2010, 01:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EuroCarFan View Post

I just started the break-in slides after about 10 hours of use. A combination of cable (Standard/THX) and xbox. Made sure there weren't any black bars on the picture at any time. Is it ok to play the slides at night 6-8 hours and use the TV for casual viewing during the day 4-8 hours using the default picture modes? Can I combine the slides and casual viewing together to make 100 hours or does the break-in slides need to run a 100 hours by themselves for the best results?

That's OK. Depends on when you plan to calibrate or play with settings. Your dual approch will get you to the same objective. That is to use the display for a couple hundred hours or so before going crazy with boosting your settings up. You'll be fine.
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post #551 of 5012 Old 06-02-2010, 02:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Derek Dean View Post

[snip]

However, I love tweaking, so I followed D-Nice's instructions to the letter and got very good results, but not perfect...... so I returned everything back to the original settings. Then I slowly and methodically began playing with each of the cut and drive (drv) settings (Red,Green, and Blue) until I got a good feel for what each did. I found that the cut settings adjust the relative balance between the 3 primary colors, while the drive settings adjust the intensity of each color present in the image. I was formerly employed as a professional color photographic printer, so I already have a good understanding of color. I like using the flesh tones for my color adjustments, while watching both light areas and dark areas for fine-tuning.

[snip

Your 'findings' are absolutely totally incorrect. Much has be written in this forum about the function of the cuts and drvs. I suggest you do a bit of research.

Larry
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post #552 of 5012 Old 06-02-2010, 06:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BAMABLUHD View Post

Dude, read the first 4 pages of this forum carefully. No, you should not mix watching with the break in slides. You should do 100 hrs straight of the slides, then you can watch the TV.

I am on here researching before I buy it, but from experience, when these guys like D Nice explicitly say something, they mean it! If you are not patient, you are on your own and may see issues. When you invest this much on something, it is important to get it right the first time.

I am sure you've got another TV in the house, so just let the Panny run until about Sunday. I am sitting here thinking about the same delimma for when I purchase mine, but I will hook the G25 up in another room alone and continue to watch my old unit until the Panny is ready at 100hrs.

So what you think a phoshor is set on a special timer or something? It is highly unlikely that if you keep the regular viewing on something like THX and continue to run your slides on the high contrast settings that it's going to make much of a difference.. Maybe if you want to be pedantic 1%.. What happens after your hundred hrs are up? Do your phoshors start to unevenly wear cos you are no longer running the slides? Come on. Based upon the experts yes do run your slides, and yes be careful and use common sense like don't run at full contrast or have 2.35:1 movies playing until you've completed the 100hrs of high contrast slides JUST to be sure.. But is it really going to make that much of a difference? enough for the human eye to tell? I think not.
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post #553 of 5012 Old 06-02-2010, 06:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BAMABLUHD View Post

Dude, read the first 4 pages of this forum carefully. No, you should not mix watching with the break in slides. You should do 100 hrs straight of the slides, then you can watch the TV.

I am on here researching before I buy it, but from experience, when these guys like D Nice explicitly say something, they mean it! If you are not patient, you are on your own and may see issues. When you invest this much on something, it is important to get it right the first time.

I am sure you've got another TV in the house, so just let the Panny run until about Sunday. I am sitting here thinking about the same delimma for when I purchase mine, but I will hook the G25 up in another room alone and continue to watch my old unit until the Panny is ready at 100hrs.

I haven't researched it extensively but I would be very surprised if anyone can prove that not doing the break-in causes "issues".

Remember that the engineers that design these sets do NOT recommend any kind of break in and probably know just a bit more about them than the local AVS experts.

So I would take comments such as yours with a big heaping bucket of salt.
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post #554 of 5012 Old 06-02-2010, 06:49 PM
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The purpose of running the slides given in this thread is to match the same break-in procedure in order to have the suggested settings match better between different sets, not to reduce image retention.
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post #555 of 5012 Old 06-02-2010, 07:22 PM
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I went on the panasonic.net/support website and found the update 2.00 (file named N101_200) here:
http://panasonic.jp/support/global/c...down_navt.html

Is this more recent than the one in my set?

When I go on my TV and check, this is what I see:

TV: 0110-1310
Status 1 : 01010-20202
Status 2: 0000-0000
Status 3: 0.8.6

Can anyone tell me how I'm supposed to know which is the most recent firmware???

Manufacturing date on my set is May 2010.
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post #556 of 5012 Old 06-02-2010, 07:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Orangevee View Post

I went on the panasonic.net/support website and found the update 2.00 (file named N101_200) here:
http://panasonic.jp/support/global/c...down_navt.html

Is this more recent than the one in my set?

When I go on my TV and check, this is what I see:

TV: 0110-1310
Status 1 : 01010-20202
Status 2: 0000-0000
Status 3: 0.8.6

Can anyone tell me how I'm supposed to know which is the most recent firmware???

Manufacturing date on my set is May 2010.


Tuner Firmware version: Starting with the second number, read every other number left to right.
0110-1310 = Tuner FW version 1.03

EEPROM Firmware Version: Starting with the 2nd to last number, read every other number right to left.
0110-1310 = EEPROM FW version 1.11


Larry
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post #557 of 5012 Old 06-03-2010, 07:46 AM
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This may be a dumb question and may have been answered previously and i apologize for either, but i am not sure after going through this thread. I plan on using the process and settings, just had a quick question... Is using D-Nice's reference settings more or less calibrating the tv? Or will that still need to be done by using a dvd or hiring a pro?

Thanks.
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post #558 of 5012 Old 06-03-2010, 03:57 PM
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I updated to the latest firmware, did the self check test which resets factory defaults, and still the same issue.

In STANDARD mode, the picture is very very dim. When I switch to custom (which has the same base settings as standard) the image comes to life all of a sudden.

Can any VT25 owners relate to this? Am I the only one?

Again, in standard mode, the picture is very dim and the image will shift in brightness from average to dim, then a bit brighter, and dimer depending on the scene on TV...

No other mode (THX, vivid, custom) seems to do this. Only standard...

Can anyone check to see if their standard mode is fine?
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post #559 of 5012 Old 06-05-2010, 05:15 PM
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Just got my 65VT25 yesterday -- about to plug in and play a 1.78 aspect ratio Blu-Ray (Avatar). Noticed that D-Nice has a space for his settings on the VT25 series on the first page -- can't wait!!

In the meantime, I know others are receiving these 65 inch models and many have the 50 and 54 models -- anyone care to share their settings on these. Would be much appreciated -- even though I know every panel is different it is good to get a ball park idea of where people are at. Seems to be a lot of G20/25 settings on this thread but the VT25's are "under-represented" :-(

Thanks.
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post #560 of 5012 Old 06-05-2010, 08:25 PM
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TC-P54VT25 with ~100 hours viewing time, using Spears & Munsil HiDef Benchmark Blu-ray through an Oppo BDP-83:

Picture Mode: THX
Contrast: +48
Brightness: +55
Color: +50
Tint: 0
Sharpness: +20
Color Temp: Warm1
Black Level: Light

After about 1 week of viewing, the following were tweaked to my personal preference for the average Blu-ray:

Contrast: +45
Brightness: +58
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post #561 of 5012 Old 06-07-2010, 08:41 AM
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hi,
I need an advice,
I want to buy a new Panaonic and I can't decide which one to go for:
TX-P50S10E or TX-P50S20E (I live in Germany so these should be the S1/S2 models).
I heard so many things that it is not possible to calibrate the S20 as good as the S10 and I should go for the S10. But with D-Nice settings (thanks btw!) the S20 should look better?
Now I only need to wait and hope for a German manual for applying the service menu settings for greyscale etc.?
what do you guys think?
thanks for any advide
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post #562 of 5012 Old 06-07-2010, 10:56 AM
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Rbats: Where did you get your 65VT25 FROM? i HEARD NO ONE HAS 'EM IN STOCK.
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post #563 of 5012 Old 06-07-2010, 01:25 PM
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Got it from ABT.
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post #564 of 5012 Old 06-07-2010, 02:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Orangevee View Post

I updated to the latest firmware, did the self check test which resets factory defaults, and still the same issue.

In STANDARD mode, the picture is very very dim. When I switch to custom (which has the same base settings as standard) the image comes to life all of a sudden.

Can any VT25 owners relate to this? Am I the only one?

Again, in standard mode, the picture is very dim and the image will shift in brightness from average to dim, then a bit brighter, and dimer depending on the scene on TV...

No other mode (THX, vivid, custom) seems to do this. Only standard...

Can anyone check to see if their standard mode is fine?

Mine hasn't arrived yet; but I've read that "Standard" is designed to be significantly dimmer because it is the mode they used to get their Energy Star rating.
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post #565 of 5012 Old 06-08-2010, 11:03 PM
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I know D-Nice said any setting not mentioned on Pg. 1 should be left as default but I just wanted to confirm that:

Color mgmt. = On
Photo enhancement = On

Pro settings:
0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 2.2, Mid, Off, +7

HDMI/DVI RGB range = all Auto

Advanced picture = all gray or Off

I'm using the Media Viewer since I only have a USB drive and not SD card.

Is this all okay? Thanks.
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post #566 of 5012 Old 06-09-2010, 12:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Nice View Post

TC-PxxS2 Reference Settings

Picture:
Picture Mode: Cinema
Contrast: 71
Brightness: 60
Color: 47
Tint: G9
Sharpness: 0
Color Temp: Warm
x.v. Color: Off
C.A.T.S: Off
Video NR: Off
Blur Reduction: Off

Advance Options
MPEG NR: Off
Black Level: Light
3:2 Pulldown: On

Service Menu Offsets

WB-ADJ MENU
R-DRV: +5
G-DRV: -11
B-DRV: -11
R-CUT: -2
G-CUT: 0
B-CUT: +4

Note: These offsets must be entered for both Color matrixes. You access the different matrixes by using a 1080i/p signal for the HD matrix and 480i/p signal for the SD matrix. The WB Method Select option should be set to 00 instead of 03.

Calibration Report

When going into the service menu offset, i can't get negative numbers for the setting. The lowest it goes is 0.

What am i doing wrong? I know how to get into the service menu (volume- and press info 3 times) but am i in the wrong menu. How do i get it to the same exact setting in the service menu set up that D-nice has set up?

Thanks.
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post #567 of 5012 Old 06-09-2010, 05:32 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markstar55 View Post

When going into the service menu offset, i can't get negative numbers for the setting. The lowest it goes is 0.

What am i doing wrong? I know how to get into the service menu (volume- and press info 3 times) but am i in the wrong menu. How do i get it to the same exact setting in the service menu set up that D-nice has set up?

Thanks.

Those are offsets not the acutal numbers you plug in. If you see +5, it means increase whatever your setting is by 5 click. 0 means don't change it. And so forth.
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post #568 of 5012 Old 06-09-2010, 05:33 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by morlan View Post

I know D-Nice said any setting not mentioned on Pg. 1 should be left as default but I just wanted to confirm that:

If that is what I said, what exactly is there to confirm?
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post #569 of 5012 Old 06-09-2010, 07:55 AM
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Huge thanks to all the people who have devoted time and expertise here.

So i have the p50s2 and i'm in day 2 of running the slides. I will say that i see a couple of issues that have me somewhat concerned:
  • Color around the edge of set seems to be brighter/lighter than color in middle of set for a specific color slide (ex: if on one of the green slides, the very outer edge seems to be slightly more yellow)
  • There is a "splotchiness" on the display when some of these images are displayed that sort of creeps around
  • basic level of background noise in video evident in picture mode

I did watch a little of content when i took it out of the box just to make sure everything was working properly.

HD video directly from my camera into HDMI3 looked spectacular
720p video from my HD DVR (watched some of "Wall-E") was really nice
upscaled DVD (HDMI, upscaled to 720p) is noisy and not great (looked better on my old th-50px60u

Thanks again to everybody here for any thoughts.

Ultimately, should these slides look like PURE, MOTIONLESS, UNIFORM color?
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post #570 of 5012 Old 06-09-2010, 10:14 AM
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Any problem if I turned these two off?

Color mgmt. = Off
Photo enhancement = Off

I didn't want to have any video processing done on the images on Pg. 1 so I turned these off as the user manual seemed to say that these functions do some processing.

Thanks again D-Nice!

I'm on hour 12 and won't be back to the TV until later tonight which will be hour 24.

~Mor
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