The Official 2010 Panasonic Settings/Issues Thread - Page 22 - AVS Forum
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post #631 of 5012 Old 06-20-2010, 08:42 AM
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Originally Posted by originalprime View Post

I'd like to chime in as another dissastisfied PS3 / VT25 / Yamaha Receiver owner. I don't know what the devil is going on here!

I use the Yamaha RX-V2600, PS3, and now a P65VT25. The only component which changed was my television. I'm coming off of a 62" Mitsu DLP. On the new Panny all of my other sources work (as before) through my receiver: SA 8300HD, Toshiba HD-A2, Xbox 360. I have an automatic Monoprice switch feeding one of the two inputs on my RX-V2600, and my PS3 plugged into the other.

With the new Panny, every source functions properly except for my PS3! I have tested my cabling by straight-plugging the PS3 into the TV, whereby it works fine. As I use my PS3 as my Blu-ray player, it is a critical function. Further, my remote is a Crestron touchscreen, so it isn't easy for me to up and change inputs, switch to a different receiver, etc. Are the new Yamaha receivers having this problem?

Any more input would be appreciated.

Thanks!

I guess by not functioning properly you mean it doesn't display at all? Have you tried plugging the PS3 into a different input on the receiver and away from the switch?
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post #632 of 5012 Old 06-20-2010, 08:47 AM
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Originally Posted by jkcheng122 View Post

I think each TV's original SM settings are different, so someone else's original settings will not match yours. This is why D-Nice gives us the offsets instead of what settings he arrived at.

Now, D-Nice did not have any instructions to change the stuff you changed, so exactly what numbers did you go by when you changed your settings to what you listed?

Yes I realized too late that DNice only wanted me to change the WB-ADJUST OFFESTS in the service menu, but like an idiot I tried to change the PICTURE settings to match what he wanted me to use in the regular scrreen adjust menu. I tried to get them to match this:
Picture:
Picture Mode: Cinema
Contrast: 71
Brightness: 60
Color: 47
Tint: G9
Sharpness: 0
Color Temp: Warm
x.v. Color: Off
C.A.T.S: Off
Video NR: Off
Blur Reduction: Off

Advance Options
MPEG NR: Off
Black Level: Light
3:2 Pulldown: On

Service Menu Offsets

WB-ADJ MENU
R-DRV: +5
G-DRV: -11
B-DRV: -11
R-CUT: -2
G-CUT: 0
B-CUT: +4

Unfortunatly, when I did, I encountered that SOME of them could be adjusted to the specific numbers whild others (most especially the sub-brt) were just an endless pile of numbers mixed with letters that were inpossible to match up. To make matters worse, I didnt write down where I stopped scrolling on them, paniced, thought that if I just got out of the service menu they wouldnt be saved(the new values), couldnt figure out how to get OUT of the service menu, and just unplugged the TV. Now, when I went back to see what I had set the values to, it would seem that they have been simply re-set to these
"Heres what my settings are at now....
Cinema
Color 49
Tint 00
SUB-BRT 8EF
Contrast 000"
I have a bad feeling that the only way I can get a decent picture is the set the main picture values in the Regular Menu to medium ranges on the THX setting, and go in and adjust the picture in the service menu itself. And if everyone agrees that that may be the case for me, does it now seem likely that I cannot use the DNIC break in/calibration system? I ask because I have been running the slides for 15 hours or so now.
YIPES!
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post #633 of 5012 Old 06-20-2010, 10:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smoof15 View Post

Your original offsets for warm should still be preserved if you didn't do what you did for both SD and HD material. So if you were viewing HD material, put on something that is 480i/p and go into the service menu to see the original offsets or vice versa.

My god you could be right. When I switch my cable DVR to output to 480i I get these values..

Contrast 220
YMAX 309
Color 3D
Tint 00
SUB-BRT 800

This is for the G25 BTW
Do these look like they may be the old settings, and if so, would they be the same across all color temps? And if so, should I just reset all of my altered values to these and begin the DNICE procedure from the slides onwards?
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post #634 of 5012 Old 06-20-2010, 10:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by abevigoda View Post

My god you could be right. When I switch my cable DVR to output to 480i I get these values..

Contrast 220
YMAX 309
Color 3D
Tint 00
SUB-BRT 800

This is for the G25 BTW
Do these look like they may be the old settings, and if so, would they be the same across all color temps? And if so, should I just reset all of my altered values to these and begin the DNICE procedure from the slides onwards?

also...when IN Service Menu mode...how do I back out of it? So far I have been simply turning the set off. There has to be a better way.
Thanks for your help so far...I dont feel quite as hopeless now.
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post #635 of 5012 Old 06-20-2010, 11:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by abevigoda View Post

also...when IN Service Menu mode...how do I back out of it? So far I have been simply turning the set off. There has to be a better way.
Thanks for your help so far...I dont feel quite as hopeless now.

If I remember correctly you just press the power button. BTW before you proceed any further, please read the attached pdf until you have a good grasp of what it explains.

Here is another calibration guide for Panny displays: http://www.hippotechsolutions.com/?page_id=788

Though the Hippo one involves using a meter and making measurements but it does go into what to do in the Service Menu.

EDIT: pdf too big to upload, here's the link

Well that doesn't work either, just Google "Guide to Calibration of Panasonic Plasma TC-P42S1" and click on the first pdf link.
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post #636 of 5012 Old 06-20-2010, 11:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Smoof15 View Post

I'm not sure about those other settings you posted but the settings in WB-ADJ MENU will be your originals that you can plug back in when you switch back over to HD. To exit the service menu just turn the set off.

Edit: My contrast and sub-brt values were the same in both SD and HD. Color was different and Tint wasn't available when I was in HD material. I would plug your original WB-ADJ MENU settings back into HD and go from there.

Thats just it Smoof15...I never GOT to the part where I was to change the WB-ADJ values...I changed the ACTUAL Picture settings (contrast,color,tint and sub-brt) IN the service menu. So, my question is...should I change my altered HD values to what my unaltered SD(420i) values were (as seen above) and then go from there? Also BIG QUESTION can I just go ahead and start the break in slides again since I for SURE never messed with the service menu settings for PHOTO, or will it be effected by my altered cinema settings? I am anxious to get the break in finished y'see.
-AbeV.
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post #637 of 5012 Old 06-20-2010, 04:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smoof15 View Post

It looks as though you only messed up Contrast, Color, and SUB-BRT in HD settings, two of which are going to be the same value as your SD Values.

So per your above statement your HD settings for Contrast should be 220, and our SUB-BRT should be 800. I am not sure what your color setting's default for HD was but there probably is not much disparity. Mine is set at 42 by default and yours I think is at 49 if i recall. Are you certain you modified this setting? Put your contrast and sub-brt back to normal and go from there.

THANKS! I will give this a shot in a couple of hours as I have to scram for a while. Until then, do you think it is safe to run the break in color slides before I reset my HD picture settings? Like I say, I DID NOT touch the PHOTO settings.
-A
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post #638 of 5012 Old 06-20-2010, 10:23 PM
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Originally Posted by jkcheng122 View Post

I guess by not functioning properly you mean it doesn't display at all? Have you tried plugging the PS3 into a different input on the receiver and away from the switch?

Correct. No output from the PS3 at all. I have tried multiple cable / port combinations on the 2600 to no avail. I even tried different inputs on the TV.

I did straight plug my PS3 to the Panny using the cable that usually connects my receiver, and it did work. Just not through the receiver. Strange thing is, the only thing that changed is my TV! The existing setup worked when connected to my old Mitsu DLP.

I'm more curious what the cause of this problem is, and if there's any reasonable solution that doesn't involve me spending bunches of money.

Thanks for your reply.

I heart dinosaurs
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post #639 of 5012 Old 06-21-2010, 02:16 AM
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I previously had a Sony Trinitron Wega CRT (that huge beast) and now have the G25 that came a couple of days ago. I knew going in that that old bird was going to handle SD waaay better than my new set. What I wasnt prepared for is the little dissapointment I am feeling about this picture I am getting on my "brand new" Panny. I just need to know the best way to adjust this oversaturation of reddishness and overall purpleish image I get. I feel like I am living in Prince's dreamworld. On top of that...even with the contrast at 100% on VIVID mind you, I am still seeing such dark, dark blacks. It is like watching the film Sin City except with very crisp HD color images. Like a pastel purple film noir. I just want this thing to look as crisp and vibrant as I feel it should do for the money. So many of you are so happy with it, what can I do? ...And yes, I have the D-Nice settings from Post One (including offesets) calibrated exactly as specified. Is there some kinda magic I can do to get these colors to pop and pop accurately? AND pull this out of the blackness whilst doing it? Service menu settings? Voodoo chants? Anything?
Any examples/instructions or advice(save hire a calibrator) would be greatly appreciated.
-A.V.
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post #640 of 5012 Old 06-21-2010, 06:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by abevigoda View Post

I now have the G25 that came a couple of days ago...... I am feeling about this picture I am getting on my "brand new" Panny. I just need to know the best way to adjust this oversaturation of reddishness and overall purpleish image I get. I feel like I am living in Prince's dreamworld. On top of that...even with the contrast at 100% on VIVID mind you, I am still seeing such dark, dark blacks. It is like watching the film Sin City except with very crisp HD color images. Like a pastel purple film noir. I just want this thing to look as crisp and vibrant as I feel it should do for the money. So many of you are so happy with it, what can I do?

...And yes, I have the D-Nice settings from Post One (including offesets) calibrated exactly as specified. Is there some kinda magic I can do to get these colors to pop and pop accurately? AND pull this out of the blackness whilst doing it? Service menu settings? Voodoo chants? Anything?
Any examples/instructions or advice(save hire a calibrator) would be greatly appreciated.

I think you misunderstood D-Nice's first post in this thread and that you have the TV set all wrong. You are NOT supposed to watch TV in VIVID mode with the Contrast set to 100% - that is only to be done while breaking the TV in using the break-in images on an SD card or DVD for the first 100 hours. He specifically says ****UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCE SHOULD THESE SETTINGS BE USED WITH ANY OTHER SOURCE MATERIAL BEYOND THE PANEL AGING THUMBDRIVE FILES****. Watching the TV in Vivid at 100% Contrast is the absolutely wrong thing to do and will look horrible !! Are you dong this???

If you broke the TV with break-in images for 100 hours per his instructions in post #1, then applied his service menu offsets correctly, then you should have been watching TV using his reference settings from post #3, not the Vivid/100% Contrast break-in settings. And it should look fabulous!

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post #641 of 5012 Old 06-21-2010, 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by RandyWalters View Post

I think you misunderstood D-Nice's first post in this thread and that you have the TV set all wrong. You are NOT supposed to watch TV in VIVID mode with the Contrast set to 100% - that is only to be done while breaking the TV in using the break-in images on an SD card or DVD for the first 100 hours. He specifically says ****UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCE SHOULD THESE SETTINGS BE USED WITH ANY OTHER SOURCE MATERIAL BEYOND THE PANEL AGING THUMBDRIVE FILES****. Watching the TV in Vivid at 100% Contrast is the absolutely wrong thing to do and will look horrible !! Are you dong this???

If you broke the TV with break-in images for 100 hours per his instructions in post #1, then applied his service menu offsets correctly, then you should have been watching TV using his reference settings from post #3, not the Vivid/100% Contrast break-in settings. And it should look fabulous!

Well, I am aging the pixels with the slides as we speak under the exact PHOTO settings specified. So what you are sayin (I think ) is that the aging process MUST go first as it will alter the set's picture in such a way that, when finished...the picture will be perfect AFTERWARDS using the DNICE picture settings and offsets? As in, patience is required? I guess I didnt realize that the break in slides improved the picture...is this the case?
And if so should I reset everything back to normal and then run the slides?
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post #642 of 5012 Old 06-21-2010, 11:45 AM
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Originally Posted by abevigoda View Post

Well, I am aging the pixels with the slides as we speak under the exact PHOTO settings specified. So what you are sayin (I think ) is that the aging process MUST go first as it will alter the set's picture in such a way that, when finished...the picture will be perfect AFTERWARDS using the DNICE picture settings and offsets? As in, patience is required? I guess I didnt realize that the break in slides improved the picture...is this the case?
And if so should I reset everything back to normal and then run the slides?

Oh and I havent been watching the set with 100% contrast for long. I just wanted to test his picture settings and offsets. And found them super darkish, so I have the contrast crank to watch last nights True Blood (m y wife would've FREAKED iffin I didn't). However, I did just realize that I had the contrast at on 100% in the main picture mode (however...the instuctions say to have the photo setting for contrast set to 100 as well) overnight with the slides. Did I destroy the set?
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post #643 of 5012 Old 06-21-2010, 12:06 PM
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Is the break-in process truly necessary as listed by D-Nice in post#1 (or anyone else for that matter)? If it is, then why is it not listed in the user manual? Can someone shed some light on this subject. Thanks.
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post #644 of 5012 Old 06-21-2010, 12:12 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by ukdb9113 View Post

Is the break-in process truly necessary as listed by D-Nice in post#1 (or anyone else for that matter)? If it is, then why is it not listed in the user manual? Can someone shed some light on this subject. Thanks.

Thoroughly read post 1 of this thread to see what my panel aging precedure is for.
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post #645 of 5012 Old 06-21-2010, 12:34 PM
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Why does the manufacture not address this procedure/issue in the manual? Do they not care about "equally and evenly age all pixels" and "provide maximum satisfaction"? I'm not trying to be difficult just trying to understand.
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post #646 of 5012 Old 06-21-2010, 02:25 PM
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So I am about 40 someodd hours into the slideshow, and I was walking past my screen while the "red" was up. There seems to be one pixel on my screen, that cannot display red, or any of the "shades" of red. When green or blue cycle through, it lights up just fine, but when red comes up, there is this tiny dot on the screen.

Granted, when you are sitting 10 feet away from the TV, you can't see anything, you need to be up there and looking for it. Is this a concern?

Let me elaborate on my "concern". Obviously I can't see it when watching TV, and as a result, don't really care. But, should this pose a problem for future use or is it a sign of things to come?
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post #647 of 5012 Old 06-21-2010, 02:34 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ukdb9113 View Post

Why does the manufacture not address this procedure/issue in the manual? Do they not care about "equally and evenly age all pixels" and "provide maximum satisfaction"? I'm not trying to be difficult just trying to understand.

If you do not understand post 1 of this thread, please ignore it and the settings listed in the subsequent post.
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post #648 of 5012 Old 06-21-2010, 02:54 PM
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Originally Posted by D-Nice View Post

If you do not understand post 1 of this thread, please ignore it and the settings listed in the subsequent post.

So what you are saying is that (if I get it correctly) is that the only, true purpose of running the slides is to improve the color and overall picture quality of the set...provided that you run them FIRST, then adjust the settings/offsets you specify.
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post #649 of 5012 Old 06-21-2010, 10:54 PM
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See title.

Thank you for your instructional posts, and for putting up with us noobs and all our questions.

And not getting (too) cantankerous as all hell in the process.

You da Man.

Thank you.

Again.
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post #650 of 5012 Old 06-21-2010, 11:02 PM
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Originally Posted by sjpagano View Post

So I am about 40 someodd hours into the slideshow, and I was walking past my screen while the "red" was up. There seems to be one pixel on my screen, that cannot display red, or any of the "shades" of red. When green or blue cycle through, it lights up just fine, but when red comes up, there is this tiny dot on the screen.

Granted, when you are sitting 10 feet away from the TV, you can't see anything, you need to be up there and looking for it. Is this a concern?

Let me elaborate on my "concern". Obviously I can't see it when watching TV, and as a result, don't really care. But, should this pose a problem for future use or is it a sign of things to come?

And... I'm gonna piggy back. I also have a "stuck" pixel, and I've noticed that it intermittently fixes itself (but is stuck or dead more often than not).

Someone replied on another thread that this thing can sometimes work itself out. But I'm also worried. Someone with reassurance? Warning? Try to exchange/return?

Thanks!
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post #651 of 5012 Old 06-22-2010, 06:21 AM
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hi, my VT20 has just been delivered, I set it up and I want to start the break-in procedure now, I am from Germany and have the European model, I chose English as language but now I have some problems with setting up everything for the slide show, PLEASE help
Contrast: 100 it should be - does this mean 100 percent so my value would be 60?
Brightness: 50 - does it mean percentage so I just leave it in the middle (default)?
Color: maximum on my scale is 60 so D-Nice settings with 75 (percent?) would mean 45 on my TV?
Sharpness: same thing: just the middle?
Tint: I don't see that option ?!
Color temp: I don't have Cool 2, just Cool, will this do?
C.A.T.S.: I don't see this option, any other name for it?
Blur reduction: can't find this one either...
Blur Reduction: I don't see this option either
Slideshow intervall: my slowest would be 120 seconds, is this the correct value?
transition effect: off
Eco mode: I turned it off
IFC: off
P-NR: off

and here are some other options I don't exactly understand:
vivid color (I turned it off)
reversal film (I turned it off)
super recolution
16:9 overscan
3d comb

I hope some kind soul can help me out

thanks so much
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post #652 of 5012 Old 06-22-2010, 06:31 AM
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Can someone please help me understand reading the hours on my 50 g25, mine reads 00162:20, i have seen this question asked before and its either ignored or answered vaguely, plz help.
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post #653 of 5012 Old 06-22-2010, 07:10 AM
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Originally Posted by DEMORIK View Post

Can someone please help me understand reading the hours on my 50 g25, mine reads 00162:20, i have seen this question asked before and its either ignored or answered vaguely, plz help.

Actually it's been explained in detail more than a few times, but if i remember correctly you basically take that whole number (remove the colon) and divide it by 256 to reveal the hours used. So 16220 divided by 256 should be 63.34 hours. Does that figure sound about right?

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post #654 of 5012 Old 06-22-2010, 07:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by olli66 View Post

hi, my VT20 has just been delivered, I set it up and I want to start the break-in procedure now, I am from Germany and have the European model, I chose English as language but now I have some problems with setting up everything for the slide show, PLEASE help
Contrast: 100 it should be - does this mean 100 percent so my value would be 60?
Brightness: 50 - does it mean percentage so I just leave it in the middle (default)?
Color: maximum on my scale is 60 so D-Nice settings with 75 (percent?) would mean 45 on my TV?
Sharpness: same thing: just the middle?
Tint: I don't see that option ?!
Color temp: I don't have Cool 2, just Cool, will this do?
C.A.T.S.: I don't see this option, any other name for it?
Blur reduction: can't find this one either...
Blur Reduction: I don't see this option either
Slideshow intervall: my slowest would be 120 seconds, is this the correct value?

As you see your European model has completely different menus so there's no way you can use D-Nices settings or SM offsets as they don't fully correspond to your model, and attempting to do so would be futile.

Our Contrast, Brightness, Color, and Sharpness settings go from 0% to 100%. Zero on the tint setting is basically halfway between red and green.

However if you insist on breaking the panel in to age the panel, then just play the slideshow images with your TV in the Vivid picture mode (i think the Euro equivalent is DYNAMIC) then set your Contrast all the way up, set the Brightness at the halfway point, Color at 75%, and tint at 50%. The slideshow interval should be 30 seconds per slide. These settings are only to be used while running the color images on a slideshow - DO NOT use them for watching TV. They're just to accelerate the initial aging of the panel for the first 100 hours or so.


Quote:


transition effect: off
Eco mode: I turned it off
IFC: off
P-NR: off
and here are some other options I don't exactly understand:
vivid color (I turned it off)
reversal film (I turned it off)
super recolution
16:9 overscan
3d comb
I hope some kind soul can help me out
thanks so much

None of that really matters for the type of break in you'll be doing.


Here is a good forum that covers the UK and Euro models:

http://www.avforums.com/forums/plasma-tvs/

Randy
TC-P55ST60, TC-P50GT50, TC-P46G10, TH-42PZ700U, TH-42PX50U, HP LC2600N, TiVo Series3, TWC Cisco 8742HDC DVR, Onkyo TX-SR605, URC R40 Remote.
Pic of My A/V setup - http://cdn.avsforum.com/f/f1/900x900..._Img_4867.jpeg
Gallery - http://www.avsforum.com/g/a/2082686/randywalter...
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post #655 of 5012 Old 06-22-2010, 07:41 AM
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Originally Posted by originalprime View Post

Correct. No output from the PS3 at all. I have tried multiple cable / port combinations on the 2600 to no avail. I even tried different inputs on the TV.

I did straight plug my PS3 to the Panny using the cable that usually connects my receiver, and it did work. Just not through the receiver. Strange thing is, the only thing that changed is my TV! The existing setup worked when connected to my old Mitsu DLP.

I'm more curious what the cause of this problem is, and if there's any reasonable solution that doesn't involve me spending bunches of money.

Thanks for your reply.

I am having the EXACT same issue.

My system consists of a Yamaha RX-V465, PS3 (hdmi), HD DVR (hdmi) and xbox 360 (component). I made no changes to anything except replacing the old Viewsonic 720p LCD with a Panny G25.

Everything used to work perfectly with my old Viewsonic 720p LCD that the G25 replaced, but now I get video drop out on the PS3 when attempting to play blurays. I can hear the sound, but the screen is not getting a video signal (can only see the TV's HDMI 1 info pane window in the top left). Games work fine, but all my games are native 720P resolution, so I think I can safely say the issue is the hdmi cables not delivering enough bandwidth (or signal.... or whatever its called) to the receiver and then to the TV. Too much distance.

I also tried bypassing the receiver and plugging the PS3 straight into the TV's hdm1 port and it worked perfect. I tried it with multiple hdmi cables and each one worked perfect. I can usually 'force' TV to accept the handshake by flipping to HDMI 2 and then reverting back to HDMI 1, but sometimes the image is all garbled and jittery. But most of the time this works though and the picture is unbelievable (watched Avatar last night with my jaw on the floor).

I believe this to be a hdmi cable length or quality issue. I only have problems when trying to view true 1080p from bluray and all the other lower resolution items work perfect every time. I'm going to buy better quality and shorter cables to test with and will report back.

Speaking of which.... which version of hdmi cable should I be after? 1.3, 1.3a, 1.3b, etc... I have a 2nd gen 40gb PS3 (the fatty). And whom has the best deals? I've bought from monoprice in the past, but that was years ago and not sure they're the best deal around.

Thanks!



**Edit: I turned off the HDMI pass through control on the receiver and tested 3x.... worked perfect every time.
Try this and report back if you would please.

** Edit 2: I tried the game Uncharted (720p) and the handshake dropped. When I forced it to recover it was very static like and unviewable. AAAGGGGGHHHHHHH!
Now I'm back to my HDMI not delivering enough signal conspiracy theory. Need to test with new (and decent quality) cables.
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post #656 of 5012 Old 06-22-2010, 08:28 AM
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thanks Randy,
I have the Vivid option so I turned it on, but I left the picture mode in "photo" or should I change this one to dynamic, too?
nowhere I can find the tint option...
so I cannot apply d-nice's settings once they are out? this sucks...
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post #657 of 5012 Old 06-22-2010, 09:34 AM
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Originally Posted by tiggr View Post

And... I'm gonna piggy back. I also have a "stuck" pixel, and I've noticed that it intermittently fixes itself (but is stuck or dead more often than not).

Someone replied on another thread that this thing can sometimes work itself out. But I'm also worried. Someone with reassurance? Warning? Try to exchange/return?

Thanks!

So I just got off the phone with Panasonic. They said since it is only one pixel it's not a major problem to warrent service. I'm fine with this answer. Like I said, you need to be standing like inches away to notice it. They noted my serial number, and gave me a case number. They said if the problem spreads for some reason that they have it noted and I will be covered, but otherwise to just ignore it (which is easy enough).

I would suggest you contact Panasonic as well, the phone number is on the last page of the owners manual (under your language/location).

One pixel out of how many million?
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post #658 of 5012 Old 06-22-2010, 09:44 AM
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Originally Posted by sjpagano View Post

so i just got off the phone with panasonic. They said since it is only one pixel it's not a major problem to warrent service. I'm fine with this answer. Like i said, you need to be standing like inches away to notice it. They noted my serial number, and gave me a case number. They said if the problem spreads for some reason that they have it noted and i will be covered, but otherwise to just ignore it (which is easy enough).

I would suggest you contact panasonic as well, the phone number is on the last page of the owners manual (under your language/location).

One pixel out of how many million?

2,073,600?

Here to help and learn. Thanks AVS.
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post #659 of 5012 Old 06-22-2010, 10:12 AM
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Originally Posted by RandyWalters View Post

Actually it's been explained in detail more than a few times, but if i remember correctly you basically take that whole number (remove the colon) and divide it by 256 to reveal the hours used. So 16220 divided by 256 should be 63.34 hours. Does that figure sound about right?

Thank you very much for explaining it to me it sounds right, my fault in missing the actual posts where it was explained but i could not have never asked for a better answer thanks a lot.
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post #660 of 5012 Old 06-22-2010, 10:17 AM
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2,073,600?

So I think it rounds up to a 0.0% failure rate
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