The Official LG xxPK550 Owner's Discussion Thread [no price talk] - Page 30 - AVS Forum
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post #871 of 5218 Old 04-15-2010, 08:44 PM
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I have had the TV on for the past 3 hours. Going to break it in with full screen viewing and no break in slides. So far I feel like I made a great purchase. Full pre calibration measurements coming next weekend and maybe even post calibration as well, depending how much time I log on the TV.
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post #872 of 5218 Old 04-15-2010, 08:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lyris View Post

Even if LG issues a firmware update for the UK/European model, you'll have to get them to do it for the US as well.

The last time I pointed out issues on their LCD range (in 2008) it took until the next model refresh for them to fix the issue. I hope they do fix it, but I wouldn't bet on it!

Thanks for this, I will probably just hold onto my 550 then. It really is a pain in the ass to box these things up and haul them around.

@halokilla: Just referring to the info from avforums that LG engineers are aware of the problems on the 750 and 950
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post #873 of 5218 Old 04-15-2010, 11:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sanguix View Post

My setting are at GAME
Brightness 50%
Contrast 50%
Color 50%
Sharpness 50%

Right now im playing a cd on loop with my PS3 using the ps3 visualisation. Is that good?


Once again thanks

Sanguix

I just want to confirm.

Thanks

You should use GAME mode only for gaming. For all the other contents you should use the THX presets (if they are available on your model) or the Cinema preset, or the Expert presets.

Break-in: Brightness is not a problem. To avoid IR (image retention) you should lower Contrast and Color, and set the energy saving option to "medium". To do the break-in, instead of using DVD patterns you can use the White wash option, which is like using a 100 IRE pattern. 1 or 2 hours for session, then turn OFF the TV and wait for a couple of hours until it is cold. I have explained some days ago more in detail that way or doing the break-in.

About your break-in settings: start to set the energy saving option to "medium" (it looks like you can't set it in Cinema mode, so use the Expert mode), then set the Contrast between 55 to 60 (and don't worry), then set the Brightness to the correct value depending of your input/source (50 is always a good start with the LGs plasma), then set Color to the right value (with those settings, start to set it to about 40 and adjust it a bit). Now, with those settings, you are ready to start your break-in sessions, and to watch your TV normally. During normal watching and gaming you can use the Orbiter option, it helps to reduce IR caused by the TV channels logos and other static images.

Enjoy your new toy, and don't worry
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post #874 of 5218 Old 04-16-2010, 06:11 AM
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My 50PK550 was running great for two days and then I turned it on and the picture was very dark, pixelated, and had a strong red tint on everything. Seems like the darkness is uneven across the screen as well... 1/2 the times I try and turn it on nothing at all shows up on the screen.

Any easy fixes?
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post #875 of 5218 Old 04-16-2010, 06:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluegt View Post

My 50PK550 was running great for two days and then I turned it on and the picture was very dark, pixelated, and had a strong red tint on everything. Seems like the darkness is uneven across the screen as well... 1/2 the times I try and turn it on nothing at all shows up on the screen.

Any easy fixes?

Check your connection/cables. Try different sources. If that doesn't help, your TV has a defect and needs to be repaired.
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post #876 of 5218 Old 04-16-2010, 07:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shamo42 View Post

Check your connection/cables. Try different sources. If that doesn't help, your TV has a defect and needs to be repaired.

Even with nothing connected the menu is like this, repair company coming Sunday, blah.
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post #877 of 5218 Old 04-16-2010, 07:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluegt View Post

Even with nothing connected the menu is like this, repair company coming Sunday, blah.

Why are you having it repaired, instead of returning it, in exchange for a new one?

If they do some work on it, and you still have problems with it, then the store may not let you return it.
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post #878 of 5218 Old 04-16-2010, 08:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mauri View Post

You should use GAME mode only for gaming. For all the other contents you should use the THX presets (if they are available on your model) or the Cinema preset, or the Expert presets.

Break-in: Brightness is not a problem. To avoid IR (image retention) you should lower Contrast and Color, and set the energy saving option to "medium". To do the break-in, instead of using DVD patterns you can use the White wash option, which is like using a 100 IRE pattern. 1 or 2 hours for session, then turn OFF the TV and wait for a couple of hours until it is cold. I have explained some days ago more in detail that way or doing the break-in.

About your break-in settings: start to set the energy saving option to "medium" (it looks like you can't set it in Cinema mode, so use the Expert mode), then set the Contrast between 55 to 60 (and don't worry), then set the Brightness to the correct value depending of your input/source (50 is always a good start with the LGs plasma), then set Color to the right value (with those settings, start to set it to about 40 and adjust it a bit). Now, with those settings, you are ready to start your break-in sessions, and to watch your TV normally. During normal watching and gaming you can use the Orbiter option, it helps to reduce IR caused by the TV channels logos and other static images.

Enjoy your new toy, and don't worry

Thanks for the reply
What are the defference between mode if I set the values at the same level?
They look pretty much the same...

After this question I think am all good
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post #879 of 5218 Old 04-16-2010, 08:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mauri View Post

You should use GAME mode only for gaming. For all the other contents you should use the THX presets (if they are available on your model) or the Cinema preset, or the Expert presets.

Break-in: Brightness is not a problem. To avoid IR (image retention) you should lower Contrast and Color, and set the energy saving option to "medium". To do the break-in, instead of using DVD patterns you can use the White wash option, which is like using a 100 IRE pattern. 1 or 2 hours for session, then turn OFF the TV and wait for a couple of hours until it is cold. I have explained some days ago more in detail that way or doing the break-in.

About your break-in settings: start to set the energy saving option to "medium" (it looks like you can't set it in Cinema mode, so use the Expert mode), then set the Contrast between 55 to 60 (and don't worry), then set the Brightness to the correct value depending of your input/source (50 is always a good start with the LGs plasma), then set Color to the right value (with those settings, start to set it to about 40 and adjust it a bit). Now, with those settings, you are ready to start your break-in sessions, and to watch your TV normally. During normal watching and gaming you can use the Orbiter option, it helps to reduce IR caused by the TV channels logos and other static images.

Enjoy your new toy, and don't worry

Are you sure about using the White Wash feature as a break in tool, for 1-2 hr sessions?

In the 2010 LG Owner Guide, they say the following:

"White Wash: White Wash removes
ghost images from the screen. Use sparingly."

"Use sparingly" appears to indicate that there is a downside to over using it, and one should only use it, when absolutely needed. Using it as a prolonged break-in conditioning tool, sound like it might be doing more harm than good.
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post #880 of 5218 Old 04-16-2010, 09:04 AM
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I'm gonna crank the white wash all night long with 100% brightness and contrast. Will still be in the 30day return period. Will report back.
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post #881 of 5218 Old 04-16-2010, 09:06 AM
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Did I miss one of your posts Goatse?? Why are you running white wash all night? Are you having problems?
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post #882 of 5218 Old 04-16-2010, 09:09 AM
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Nope, thats how I'm gonna break the tv in.
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post #883 of 5218 Old 04-16-2010, 09:25 AM
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Would the 550 have a better picture than an edge-lit LED?
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post #884 of 5218 Old 04-16-2010, 09:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ehgz1 View Post

Would the 550 have a better picture than an edge-lit LED?



Edge-lit, I'd say no. Local dimming it may be debatable but you're paying alot per inch for LED to begin with.
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post #885 of 5218 Old 04-16-2010, 09:30 AM
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[quote]Would the 550 have a better picture than an edge-lit LED?/QUOTE]

Hands down yes. Edge lit LED LCD's look horrible in a dark room. I'd take the 550 any day of the week.
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post #886 of 5218 Old 04-16-2010, 09:30 AM
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Well I have a Sony LED 46" (46NX700) that I got from Sony and I really want to trade it for the 550. So you think the LG would have a better PQ right?

Sorry...I posted this right when you did kill
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post #887 of 5218 Old 04-16-2010, 09:32 AM
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I've been running the break-in slides for just over 20 hours now but I briefly paused to watch some normal programming and I noticed something weird. When I flip through the menus with the directional buttons on the remote, every time I hit a button there are flickering blue and green pixels in different areas of the screen. Very odd and it only happens in the instance above, never during regular programming.
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post #888 of 5218 Old 04-16-2010, 09:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greenland View Post

Are you sure about using the White Wash feature as a break in tool, for 1-2 hr sessions?

In the 2010 LG Owner Guide, they say the following:

"White Wash: White Wash removes
ghost images from the screen. Use sparingly."

"Use sparingly" appears to indicate that there is a downside to over using it, and one should only use it, when absolutely needed. Using it as a prolonged break-in conditioning tool, sound like it might be doing more harm than good.

Yes, I'm sure about it, I have done my break-in in that way

They are right, you must use it sparingly because a 100 IRE pattern full screen requires the maximum power to the TV power supply. For that reason, I said you should set the energy saving option to "medium", lowering the contrast to about 60, and session should be 1-2 hours (each), then turn OFF the TV for about 2 hours until it is perfectly cold, before start a new white wash session.

The advantage to use a 100 IRE pattern (or the white wash option available on the LGs) is that all the 3 phosporos are aging in the same way, because a 100 IRE (white) pattern is R=100 G=100 and B=100.
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post #889 of 5218 Old 04-16-2010, 09:36 AM
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I had a 54" Panny S1 which I just exchanged for the 550 and I also had a 55" Samsung C6500 Edge Lit LED in my home during that period as well and in dark scenes the Sammy couldn't even come close. Not to mention I moved one couch cushion and anyone on the screen instantly became bleach white.

I will never again be lured away from plasma simply for slim cosmetics and a nice bright picture in a show room... I should have known better

Other than the glare off the 550 (it's not MUCH worse than my S1) I'm quite enjoying the LG so far. I've been a Panny/Pio guy for a long time, this is a stop-gap for me until I see an infinite contrast panel from Panasonic... but I'm very much digging this set.

IMO there is no better set on the market for the money.
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post #890 of 5218 Old 04-16-2010, 09:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Goatse View Post

I'm gonna crank the white wash all night long with 100% brightness and contrast. Will still be in the 30day return period. Will report back.

That's a good way to break the TV, not to do the plasma break-in.

Why you want to try to damage your TV?
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post #891 of 5218 Old 04-16-2010, 09:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sanguix View Post

Thanks for the reply
What are the defference between mode if I set the values at the same level?
They look pretty much the same...

After this question I think am all good

They look pretty much the same, but not 100% the same

Trust me, to do the break-in with the white wash option use the Expert preset, and set it as I have told you before. For the break-in with the white wash option, GAME or Expert preset is the same, but not the same to watch normally your TV. THX, Expert and Cinema preset are the best out-of-the-box pre-calibrated from factory (in that order).
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post #892 of 5218 Old 04-16-2010, 09:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mauri View Post

They look pretty much the same, but not 100% the same

Trust me, to do the break-in with the white wash option use the Expert preset, and set it as I have told you before. For the break-in with the white wash option, GAME or Expert preset is the same, but not the same to watch normally your TV. THX, Expert and Cinema preset are the best out-of-the-box pre-calibrated from factory (in that order).

Thank again.

How about the 120 pictures Break in slide from this site.?
Any good. Cause I would like to Burn in over night.


Peace
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post #893 of 5218 Old 04-16-2010, 10:21 AM
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I prefer to use the white wash option, to avoid possible problems that sometimes can occur with DVD players and such kind of "DVD test" (if it stop to a screen, or will stop and showing a fixed logo, it is not good).

Before start the white wash option, if you want to use it togheter with the timer available from the OSD (TV), remember to set the TV to a television channel, otherwise the TV will turn OFF after some minutes if there is no signal on the selected input.
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post #894 of 5218 Old 04-16-2010, 10:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mauri View Post

Yes, I'm sure about it, I have done my break-in in that way

They are right, you must use it sparingly because a 100 IRE pattern full screen requires the maximum power to the TV power supply. For that reason, I said you should set the energy saving option to "medium", lowering the contrast to about 60, and session should be 1-2 hours (each), then turn OFF the TV for about 2 hours until it is perfectly cold, before start a new white wash session.

The advantage to use a 100 IRE pattern (or the white wash option available on the LGs) is that all the 3 phosporos are aging in the same way, because a 100 IRE (white) pattern is R=100 G=100 and B=100.

For how long did you do that. In other words, what was the total number of hours that you ran the White Wash Feature, during the break in period?
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post #895 of 5218 Old 04-16-2010, 11:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greenland View Post

For how long did you do that. In other words, what was the total number of hours that you ran the White Wash Feature, during the break in period?

I don't remember now, I have done it more than 1 year ago.

There could be two reasons to do the break-in:

1. You are scared about IR, and you are a gamer. In that case, and taking in the consideration that these new models have less IR than my old PG, I think that about 40-45 hours (in total) of a white wash breaking-in could be enough before start gaming. But I suggest to use the break-in settings during normal watching/gaming until the display has about 100 hours or so, and use the Orbiter option. I would always use the Orbiter option during gaming, not only during the first 100 hours.

2. You will get the display professional calibrated, or you will calibrate it by yourself with a meter, and your idea is to share (later) your settings with other people on the forum. In this case, if you want to be really picky and precise, I suggest to do the white wash break-in for about 90-100 hours, then calibrate the display for the first time with the meter, post the complete settings and warn people to do the break in that way (white wash option and using the other settings) and for the same numbers of hours you have done it. Later, when the display will have about 250 hours or more, you can calibrate it again and post the "final" settings.

There could be other considerations/situations... those are 2 examples.

'sorry for my bad english
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post #896 of 5218 Old 04-16-2010, 11:44 AM
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What does the orbiter option do vs normal? I currently have mine set to factory default normal.
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post #897 of 5218 Old 04-16-2010, 11:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dudg View Post

What does the orbiter option do vs normal? I currently have mine set to factory default normal.

The Orbiter will move all the screen of a small number of pixel every 2 minutes.
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post #898 of 5218 Old 04-16-2010, 01:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greenland View Post

Why are you having it repaired, instead of returning it, in exchange for a new one?

If they do some work on it, and you still have problems with it, then the store may not let you return it.

Oh, repair is through the store, they said they could replace it but they would take up to a month unless I haul the TV back to a store myself. They have a lemon policy though so if the thing keeps breaking they will just give me a new TV, I'm not too worried
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post #899 of 5218 Old 04-16-2010, 01:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mauri View Post

I don't remember now, I have done it more than 1 year ago.

There could be two reasons to do the break-in:

1. You are scared about IR, and you are a gamer. In that case, and taking in the consideration that these new models have less IR than my old PG, I think that about 40-45 hours (in total) of a white wash breaking-in could be enough before start gaming. But I suggest to use the break-in settings during normal watching/gaming until the display has about 100 hours or so, and use the Orbiter option. I would always use the Orbiter option during gaming, not only during the first 100 hours.

2. You will get the display professional calibrated, or you will calibrate it by yourself with a meter, and your idea is to share (later) your settings with other people on the forum. In this case, if you want to be really picky and precise, I suggest to do the white wash break-in for about 90-100 hours, then calibrate the display for the first time with the meter, post the complete settings and warn people to do the break in that way (white wash option and using the other settings) and for the same numbers of hours you have done it. Later, when the display will have about 250 hours or more, you can calibrate it again and post the "final" settings.

There could be other considerations/situations... those are 2 examples.

'sorry for my bad english

How did you determine that your running the White Wash during the break in period resulted in less I.R. What did you compare it too?

Your English skills are not a problem. I understand that you are Italian, but your English is fine.
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post #900 of 5218 Old 04-16-2010, 02:47 PM
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greenland,
it is not a question of the system used to do the break-in (white wash, 100 IRE pattern, DVD with different patterns, etc.).

The point is that almost all plasma display are more "sensitive" to IR during the first hours of use, and also they will not give you the best picture quality. That's because the phosphors/gas should stabilize, and so it is necessary to use the display and wait until they are OK. It usually takes about 100 hours of use to get them 90-95% stabilized. That process will happen in any case, during the normal aging of the panel, nevermind if you are only watching normal contents (TV channels and so) or doing a particular break-in.

The idea of using the white wash option present on the LGs is because it is the same thing of using a 100 IRE pattern, but you have that feature available from the TV OSD and you can use it togheter with the TV timer to do the 1-2 hours sessions and turn OFF automatically the TV without having to remember that thing. The advantages are that all 3 phosphors will aging exactly in the same way, and with a full-white 16:9 screen you will not have logos or other stuff showed on it, so it is impossible to have IR problems like those, instead, that you could get while watching some broadcasting channels, or during gaming. That's all
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