Here is a program that I wrote to manage the display settings and to enable and activate ISF modes on the KRP monitors without patching the firmware..
This is done by switching the model information from a US version to a European or Japanese one. They all run the same firmware but the US version is crippled by a runtime check..
Anyone who runs this program is doing it at their own risk.
I have only tested it on my 600m so far but it should work on 500m's and the Elites as well..
The program requires .Net 3.5 and talks to the monitor over a LAN or a serial connection (no ISF control over the serial port currently).
After connecting it up, here are the steps needed to enable ISF:
1. Enable IP Control in the monitor and then run the program and connect to the IP address that you assigned to it. You should be able to control the tv power by clicking the power button.
2. Change the model from the US version to a European one.
3. The tv will disconnect and reset and tell you to turn the power off when it is done.. after that IP control needs to be re-enabled and the program restarted and reconnected.
5. Select the input on which you want to add the ISF modes
6. Click Start ISF to get into the calibration mode - you can see more information if you toggle the OSD button to show the monitor's onscreen display
7. Choose the ISF memory that you want to use with the ISF Mem drop down.
8. Make adjustments to your settings and the 9 point gamma.
- I am using the raw values in the up/down controls and most of they are different depending on whether or not you are in ISF mode.. In ISF mode, for most of the settings, the value 128 means zero.. In the non ISF modes, for most of them zero is mapped to 30 - this is just the way the TV works and I decided not to hide it - but maybe if I continue working on this I will change it later..
9. At this point you can load and save your settings to and from an XML file - I have attached the ones that I am currently using (I copied the 600m settings that leminhq18 posted and they look pretty good I think)
10. click Save IFS to save the settings - after that you can go back to step 7 and add the other memories.
12. click Exit IFS - now the ISF mode should be available and you should be able to switch to it with the remote or by changing the AVS drop down control.
You will see the commands that are being sent in the status window - let it run and don't worry if some of them fail - in particular, I try to get the 9 point gamma settings each time, but this only works in the ISF mode - I didn't bother writing code to check for this..
Also the color temp controls only work when the color temp setting is on Manual..
Thanks for the input and thanks for uploading the XML files with D-Nice's settings already input. Do you still use these? Which mode do you like the best? Have you had your 500M professionally calibrated or are you happy with D-Nice's settings? (if that is what you use)
I am just reading up on this and taking a look at Control Cal to see what I want to do. I am itching to unlock these ISF modes somehow
Quote:
Originally Posted by powertoold /forum/post/20535650
I used KuroControl on my 500m about a year ago, and I must say it's awesome! Thanks to the OP for programming and providing it free!
Yes, it reset my hours, but I don't care, and the hours don't have anything to do with the display's electronics (at least not for my 500m). Since activating the ISF modes, I've put around 1500 hours on my display.
Yes, I just use it to store the information. It must be my OCD that makes me want to keep track of all that info. There's no way I know of to add the hours back. Not saying it can't be done.
The email notifications are not too hard to set up. I don't remember off the top of my head how do do it, its been a while.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mac13 /forum/post/20535661
Thanks for the input and thanks for uploading the XML files with D-Nice's settings already input. Do you still use these? Which mode do you like the best? Have you had your 500M professionally calibrated or are you happy with D-Nice's settings? (if that is what you use)
I am just reading up on this and taking a look at Control Cal to see what I want to do. I am itching to unlock these ISF modes somehow
I did some minor adjustments to the settings I uploaded. Basically, for ISF-Night, I'm using all of ISF-Day's settings except for the contrast.
Nowadays, I find myself using only ISF-Day and Pure mode.
I haven't had my 500m calibrated, but one of these days, I'll consider it. Although I really enjoy the settings I have now, I still feel they are "off."
Once you have changed your TV to the European model and activated the ISF modes, can you change it back to the North American model? I'm sure this was posted somewhere but I can't find it. Thanks!
Originally Posted by Mac13
Once you have changed your TV to the European model and activated the ISF modes, can you change it back to the North American model?
Right I didn't think you could keep the ISF modes but can you change it back to the North American model period? (at the same time losing ISF modes)
If not, is there really any reason why it would matter if you couldn't switch back to NA? Could someone even tell it had been changed to a different model aside from I assume looking in the service menu and obviously the ISF modes being there (which I don't see why someone would care haha).
I just want to make sure I don't do something that I couldn't reverse or could potentially have a downside. Thanks guys!
Quote:
Originally Posted by bodosom
Not and keep ISF modes.
Originally Posted by Mac13
Thanks for the input and thanks for uploading the XML files with D-Nice's settings already input. Do you still use these? Which mode do you like the best? Have you had your 500M professionally calibrated or are you happy with D-Nice's settings? (if that is what you use)
I am just reading up on this and taking a look at Control Cal to see what I want to do. I am itching to unlock these ISF modes somehow
I've also been running my KRP over a year with this and no issues whatsoever. This isn't like a firmware mod. It is something these are designed to be able to do. The ONLY reason that it's normally disabled in the NA version is that there were no Pro-101's or 141's in Europe so they just had KRP's w/ISF unlocked (and cost more than KRPs did stateside as a result).
ControlCal is doing something very similar to this, if not the exact same thing. The main difference is that ControlCal is more official and they give you support and some free profiles. And of course you pay them money. KuroControl works fine for me. Also KuroReader is another handy free tool to check out your settings (although I'd still use KuroReader to do anything with ISF).
Originally Posted by Mac13
Right I didn't think you could keep the ISF modes but can you change it back to the North American model period? (at the same time losing ISF modes)
If not, is there really any reason why it would matter if you couldn't switch back to NA? Could someone even tell it had been changed to a different model aside from I assume looking in the service menu and obviously the ISF modes being there (which I don't see why someone would care haha).
I just want to make sure I don't do something that I couldn't reverse or could potentially have a downside. Thanks guys!
As long as the set is functional, you should be able to change the code back. If something goes wrong so badly that you can't access things, whether it's set to EU or NA isn't gonna matter much.
Originally Posted by dlplover
Also KuroReader is another handy free tool to check out your settings (although I'd still use KuroReader to do anything with ISF).
Did you mean to say you would still use KuroReader or KuroControl to do anything with ISF?
Quote:
Originally Posted by dlplover
The main difference is that ControlCal is more official and they give you support and some free profiles.
I knew they give you profiles but what are these profiles? I thought they were just the ISF modes. If KuroControl unlocks these then how are the profiles different? Thanks!
No, KuroControl = unlocking and setting ISF. My recollection is that KuroReader may not play properly with ISF settings on these models, but it's good for seeing a clean readout on all your settings or tweaking your non-ISF modes.
Quote:
I knew they give you profiles but what are these profiles? I thought they were just the ISF modes. If KuroControl unlocks these then how are the profiles different? Thanks!
KuroControl doesn't come with any profiles, you have to either calibrate yourself or use someone else's settings. ControlCal unlocks ISF modes and additionally gives you some starter profiles which should be pretty good. For me, I just went with KuroControl since I didn't foresee any significant benefit to ControlCal. Went with someone's posted calibrated settings and adjusted them slightly for my set.
got the grayscale taken care of well with this program, but i cant get my gamma anywhere higher than 1.6. taking the 9point gamma to the extreme and plugging 1 across the board still wouldnt lower the light output enough. not sure if 0 does anything but i tried that too.
the numbers certainly do something since i can see the image changing on the screen, and Y value drops some as i try to raise the gamma, but the overall gamma is still 1.6.. comes out of black too fast and the Y values increase over their goal throughout the range.
contrast set to 32 (was having blue fizzle out on me at 40, even 36.. 33 shows me the bars i need and lets the blue stay in line). Ive also had to boost blue by 20. toying with the blue setting made no appreciable difference on the Y, but the gray scale looked decent atleast. brightness at 0 (130)
Looking at the gamma patterns the gradients were all smooth at least, and the bar/gamma pattern did not show an appreciable discoloration throughout the bars.
using displaylt, warmed up for an hour on screen. re-calibrate regularly. I leave it suctioned to the screen. do you think that it raising the Y values vs suspending it? the 100% is also measured on the screen so i cant imaging it makes a big difference.
from my understanding, if at a level of 4 in the 9point gamma, if that is too low gamma/toohigh illumination, then going in the direction of 1 should reduce the light output, correct? Am I misinterpretting something? setting 1 across the board should reduce light output between 10-90 right?
EDIT: I should have posted this in the Kuro 600m thread, which i just did, ignore the post here.
Your numbers sound strange. Most of the properly calibrated settings I saw posted had lower contrast (even than your adjusted settings). Also, gamma should not be one number across the board. The first several are slightly higher than the rest. If you're not sure what you're doing, it's probably better to just stick with someone else's settings and make minor adjustments.
If you really want to limit light output, you can put the set in power save 1 or 2. Also, if you're looking for a more "contrasty" image you're probably better off using DRE and Enhancer to boost the image rather than using some wack calibration settings.
As a side note, that color meter is pretty cheap as far as they go and probably isn't going to get you anything close to an accurate calibration. Just read the reviews of it over at amazon: http://www.amazon.com/X-Rite-EODLT-E...DateDescending
You're likely doing more harm than good using it. A proper calibration usually costs on the order of $300 and I would spend at least that on a color meter if you're trying to calibrate yourself. This is a great display and an inaccurate meter will screw you up more than it will help you.
Even this meter should be reasonably accurate in the mid to top end readings. And I prefer to DIY... nothing in here is going to cause permanent damage.
Quote:
Originally Posted by dlplover /forum/post/20549529
For me, I just went with KuroControl since I didn't foresee any significant benefit to ControlCal. Went with someone's posted calibrated settings and adjusted them slightly for my set.
I was thinking about using KuroControl to unlock my ISF modes but I may get my set professionally calibrated in the future and I have heard some calibrators say they will not do it using KuroControl. I guess they only want to use ControlCal. If I use KuroControl to unlock my ISF modes now, could a calibrator also use ControlCal on my set in the future to do the calibration? I didn't know if you could just go ahead and use ControlCal or if you would have to set the 500M back to a NA model and then use ControlCal or if it isn't even possible once you have used KuroControl. This is the last thing holding me back from using KuroControl.
Honestly KuroControl seems much easier to use and it does the same thing as ControlCal. I went to ControlCal's website and it was very confusing. I had a hard time finding the threads for the 500M and it seemed like a more risky procedure and I feel like I would screw something up. KuroControl just seems like the easier (plus cheaper!) route...
The cost is of no consequence and it's seems easier if you have a specific goal in mind however that's largely an illusion.
Where KuroControl is a clear win is using it over the network -- an extension which was requested a few times for ControlCal. However in the context of the recent conversation, where the goal is a professional calibration, if the calibrator will work with ControlCal and not a KuroControl style unlocked panel then the differences are irrelevant.
I got the first public ControlCal ISF unlock, naturally I've used KuroControl, contributed to the independent discovery of the ISF unlock and use my own tools (written in Perl) to fiddle my 500M. I think I have a reasonable understanding of the pros and cons.
Oh ok so you have used both. I may go ahead and do that. Who knows if I will ever get around to having my set professionally calibrated which at that time I could get ControlCal. For now it seems KuroControl is the way to go
Guys I unlocked my ISF modes and had a question about the ISF-Auto mode. How does this work? Should I set these settings to match my ISF-Day settings? Does Auto start at ISF-Day and then depending on light adjust down to ISF-Night? Also, is there any way to check the current settings of Auto? (contrast, brightness, etc..) I tried to check the current settings using KuroReader but it just listed the values that I input when I set the mode up when I knew that wasn't actually what was displaying at the moment because the display was much darker.
I just want to thank Xsiv4ce for sharing this little program. It worked like a charm to unlock the built-in ISF modes in my KRP-500M. I'm currently using D-Nice's settings for Day and Night, and will decide later, if I want a professional calibration. I don't mind paying someone a few hundred dollars for their time and expertise in calibrating my display, but I just couldn't justify paying $100 for a simple patch to unlock the ISF modes, first.
So quick question. I just noticed my 500M has a reddish tint when it is black. I never noticed this until a couple days ago so I think it just popped up. It seems kind of odd that I just used Kuro Control to change my model and unlock the ISF modes a couple weeks ago. Could this have messed something up in the set? Does anyone else notice their blacks having a reddish tint to them? I really notice it when there are black bars for movies and it seems to be worse on my upper right corner. I assume it could be in different spots for different people but it is definitely more noticeable with black bars. Please let me know if anyone else notices this on their set or if you have any info about this or a possible fix
If this started after you unlocked with KuroControl, you should probably try fixing the settings. Make sure you entered everything properly for the offsets etc..
If I recall I think there were one or two different sets of off-sets so make sure that you're dialing in the numbers right. If you've dialed them in wrong, that could be a good reason why you have red tint. Not automatic that that's what the problem is, but it'd be the first thing I would check.
Quote:
Originally Posted by dlplover /forum/post/20716589
If this started after you unlocked with KuroControl, you should probably try fixing the settings. Make sure you entered everything properly for the offsets etc..
If I recall I think there were one or two different sets of off-sets so make sure that you're dialing in the numbers right. If you've dialed them in wrong, that could be a good reason why you have red tint. Not automatic that that's what the problem is, but it'd be the first thing I would check.
I just loaded someone else's XML file that contained D-Nice's settings. I haven't verified all of the settings in KC myself though. I checked most of it on the TV and it looked fine though. What makes me think it isn't just a setting is that it seems like the upper right corner and to a lesser degree the right side have a more noticeable red tint then the rest of the TV.
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