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post #301 of 325 Old 02-11-2011, 01:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MovieDad View Post
Crazy_Man2: I ran my contrast on 70 right out of the box and have had no issue. I've even seen some recomendations to run contrast on 100 to break it in. I've also had no issues with IR, and my set is in the family room for the kids to watch whatever they want (Cartoon Network logos up, sitting on the DVR menu page for several minutes at a time). I just tell them to turn off the set if they pause a show to go do something.

I think you are safe to jump right into the calibrations posted here. The sooner you do the sooner you'll really know that you made a great purchase.
Thank you for the reply MovieDad!

So far I have turned up the contrast to 70 kept brightness at 50 and turned the sharpness down to 15 the rest of the settings are default cinema pre-set.
It looks pretty good to me now, once I get some spare time I think I'll try out your settings.

But I do have another question, what is "Film Mode"? And do you suggest turning it on or off for cable TV?
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post #302 of 325 Old 02-13-2011, 04:57 PM
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Crazy_Mac2: I am not smart enough, nor have I done enough research to really understand what Film Mode does. Something about the frame rate when something is shot on film vs. the refresh rate when it's displayed on the TV. I just turn it on for everything. I really have seen no difference one way or the other (but haven't really looked for it either) so I figure I'll just leave it on since it's supposed to do something 'good' when I am watching something film based.
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post #303 of 325 Old 02-14-2011, 12:36 PM
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"Film Mode" is grayed out for me in Expert mode. I have seen others mention this but haven't found the explanation. I am using an HDMI connection.

Thanks to all for the help provided here. I am just starting to try calibration, but coming from an "old" CRT it looked great out of the box. It was quite dark until I turned off the power saving and it IS very reflective which I will have to get used to. There is more of a buzz than I expected, but is basically only noticeable when the volume is low of off.

When I was watching Ep1 of Planet Earth, I noticed highly detailed scenes with motion seemed to flicker until I turned off noise reduction, edge enhancement and dynamic contrast. It is less now.
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post #304 of 325 Old 02-14-2011, 02:13 PM
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Thanks for all the helpful info so far.

I've settled on some sort of combination between MovieDad's settings and will2007's settings.

I have noticed some things, when ever a camera pans with any sort of speed it doesn't seem smooth it seems rather jerky, also some times certain patterns such as a checkerboard table cloth seems to sort of shake/vibrate, and SOME horizontal lines seem to do the same shake/vibrate. Is this just a plasma thing or is it specific to this set? Anyone else notice this happening?
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post #305 of 325 Old 02-15-2011, 06:57 AM
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I am not having the problem with patterned images shaking/ vibrating. I am very happy with the image stability I am getting. Are you having the problem with 1080i/720p source material (blue ray discs/ HD television)? Perhaps it's an up-scale issue with your video source (if you are using a blue ray player or media player that is upscaling SD dics/ video to 1080i/ 720p)

I'm sure if you search around this forum you will find lot's of possible explanations related to source frame rates and pull down, etc. etc. I haven't gone looking for it becaue my 50pj350 has been very clean in this aspect (all aspects really)
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post #306 of 325 Old 02-15-2011, 02:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MovieDad View Post

I am not having the problem with patterned images shaking/ vibrating. I am very happy with the image stability I am getting. Are you having the problem with 1080i/720p source material (blue ray discs/ HD television)? Perhaps it's an up-scale issue with your video source (if you are using a blue ray player or media player that is upscaling SD dics/ video to 1080i/ 720p)

I'm sure if you search around this forum you will find lot's of possible explanations related to source frame rates and pull down, etc. etc. I haven't gone looking for it becaue my 50pj350 has been very clean in this aspect (all aspects really)

I've not noticed the image stability issues while watching blu rays (I really don't have many of these yet so the variety of material I have to choose from is quite limited.) The non smooth panning issue does occur with blu rays but it doesn't seem quite as bad. I mostly watch HD cable via a Moto DCX-3200 set to 720p if i had it set to 1080i the picture seems to have more of a stability issue. I could try setting the DCX to native but if the 50pj350 is anything like my cheapo Sanyo LCD the top half of the picture will scramble. I was thinking the panning issue could be because I am very close to the screen at 6 - 7 feet, I have crammed this set into my very small 9x10 room.

by the way if it matters my blu-ray player is a LG BD550.

Do you have cable or satellite? If cable what setting is your STB on? (720p/1080i/Native)?

According to PTBG the resolution on this set is 1366x768? Could some of the issue be caused by the STB scaling the picture first to 1280x720 and then the TV has to scale it AGAIN to reach the final resolution of 1366x768?
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post #307 of 325 Old 02-16-2011, 05:38 AM
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Crazy_Man2:
I have an LG BD530 and it's set to output at 1080i. It delivers very nice image whether watching blue ray discs, standard DVD's, or watching MPEG4 video files or vob files off a hard drive. So no PQ issues at all.

My STB is an HD DVR from Comcast (I can't remember the brand/ model). Output is also set at 1080i. HD material looks excellent on the TV. SD material is even very acceptable with noise reduction and edge enhancement on. I'm using HDMI to connect to the TV.

I did read somewhere that it's easier for a TV to 'down convert' a 1080i input signal to 768p vs. up convert from 720p to 768p.

I sit about 12' back, so maybe you are just seeing issues that I also have but don't notice.
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post #308 of 325 Old 03-01-2011, 05:00 AM
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Traduction (français > anglais)
Hello everybody,
Happy owner of a 42PJ350, I turn to you, because in France, Pj350 does not win the success it deserves on the forums ....

So if I could Will2007 MovieDad and put their full and final adjustments, I really appreciate

I opened the document doc MovieDad, but .... I do not understand how to read the settings has to ..... : '(

Thank you in advance
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post #309 of 325 Old 03-01-2011, 07:44 AM
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le_chouby: read post #290 for how to read the white balance graph
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post #310 of 325 Old 03-01-2011, 08:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MovieDad View Post

le_chouby: read post #290 for how to read the white balance graph

Traduction (français > anglais)
Thank you for your reply
I read the post 290, but .....
I do not understand: (
I apologize!
Google translate but it is not obvious as literary translation, not word by word ....
"if" you could put your complete settings in this post will be really very kind to you.
Cordially
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post #311 of 325 Old 03-01-2011, 08:23 AM
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Here are my complete settings, without the graphs:

Attachment 203691

 

MovieDad's 50PJ350 Calibrations.doc 57k . file
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post #312 of 325 Old 03-01-2011, 08:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MovieDad View Post

Here are my complete settings, without the graphs:

Attachment 203691

Thank you very much!
I try this in the evening: D
Cordially
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post #313 of 325 Old 03-01-2011, 02:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MovieDad View Post

Here are my complete settings, without the graphs:

Attachment 203691


Traduction (français > anglais)
So I put your settings and did some testing ....
And "I" finds that the faces are, how sayings ... Waxy ...
There are flat areas greenish / yellowish faces.

Did you this??
is this normal contribution to 6500K?
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post #314 of 325 Old 03-11-2011, 11:58 AM
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I did think skin tones looked too green when I first used Will2007's settings, which is why I did not increase the green level/ tint in the color management as he did. I now think my skin tones are very good.

You could try going cooler on the color temperature to reduce the yellowing, or shifting the tint more toward red than green. Or change the green and yellow levels in color management.

At this point you are probably dealing with the differences between one television and another (or input signal characteristices and another) so you will have to tweak your settings to work with your hardware, room environment, input source and personal preferences.

Have you tried the picture wizard? that may be a good way to achieve the final settings for tint and color temperature that you like.
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post #315 of 325 Old 03-14-2011, 05:01 PM
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how do I adjust the 20 point scale?
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post #316 of 325 Old 03-15-2011, 05:49 AM
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To adjust the 20pt greyscale, go to:
1. menu
2. Picture
3. select 'Expert 1' or 'Expert 2' for the Picture Mode
4. scroll down and select 'Exper Control'
5. scroll down past Dynamic Contrast, Color Gamut, etc. to 'Method'
6. Select '20 Pt IRE' in the 'Method' box
7. scroll down to the 'IRE' box. Scroll right or level to move up and down the IRE scale and select on of the 20 points, in increments of 5
8. once you've selected one of the 20 IRE points, scroll down to the Red, Green, or Blue boxes to adjust the levels of those colors for the chosen IRE point
9. repeat for each of the 30 IRE points that you want to change
10. when finished, you can choose to apply the greyscale settings to all your inputs (so you don't have to repeat the tedious task) by selecting 'Apply to all inputs' directly below the 'Blue' box.
11. when done, scroll to the bottom and select 'close'

my 20pt settings, as well as Will2007's are shown in the attachment to post #311 in this thread
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post #317 of 325 Old 03-15-2011, 06:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MovieDad View Post

To adjust the 20pt greyscale, go to:
1. menu
2. Picture
3. select 'Expert 1' or 'Expert 2' for the Picture Mode
4. scroll down and select 'Exper Control'
5. scroll down past Dynamic Contrast, Color Gamut, etc. to 'Method'
6. Select '20 Pt IRE' in the 'Method' box
7. scroll down to the 'IRE' box. Scroll right or level to move up and down the IRE scale and select on of the 20 points, in increments of 5
8. once you've selected one of the 20 IRE points, scroll down to the Red, Green, or Blue boxes to adjust the levels of those colors for the chosen IRE point
9. repeat for each of the 30 IRE points that you want to change
10. when finished, you can choose to apply the greyscale settings to all your inputs (so you don't have to repeat the tedious task) by selecting 'Apply to all inputs' directly below the 'Blue' box.
11. when done, scroll to the bottom and select 'close'

my 20pt settings, as well as Will2007's are shown in the attachment to post #311 in this thread

okay, i wasn't sure if i was supposed to do it for each one. once i'm done with that, does it matter which IRE level it is left on?
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post #318 of 325 Old 03-16-2011, 05:24 AM
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no, as far as I know it does not matter which IRE point the picutre menu is left on when you close it
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post #319 of 325 Old 03-16-2011, 08:17 AM
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It's been a while since I've read this thread. I'm glad to see it's still going and that many others have discovered this terrific bargain of a plasma TV. I've got 2 of them now. Also, I'm glad to see that some of the other posters are using or building upon my initial 20-pt greyscale settings and yours as well.

I will remind you and others that although I think using them may be better than the out of the box stock settings for improving your white balance and black levels, simply inputting my settings or yours isn't calibrating your own set. There is a lot of variance in physical components and their tolerances among one plasma panel to another, even within the very same make and model. Those variances alone can account for big differences in readings you might get. There is also a lot of variance in sensor readings among inexpensive colorimeters like the one I used to get my settings.

Keep in mind that I did not adjust my TV by eye. I used a colorimeter and the readings I got were determined by it and the software I used. Admittedly, my colorimeter's red sensors were under-reporting the red levels, so I had to make allowances for that (and it is very common for that model of colorimeter to under-report red, especially as it ages). Nevertheless, my settings were not exactly subjective; they were determined by measuring and adjusting the settings to zero out levels based on the readings my meter gave from the panel. The numbers I input were based precisely on those readings.

Also keep in mind that the inputs on each IRE level interact with the neighboring IRE levels. Therefore, the greyscale adjustment process is highly iterative. Each iteration of the entire greyscale adjustment will likely help you zero in on a more accurate white balance, and correspondingly, black levels across the board. Your third or fourth iteration is likely to look better than your first.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MovieDad View Post

I did think skin tones looked too green when I first used Will2007's settings, which is why I did not increase the green level/ tint in the color management as he did. I now think my skin tones are very good.

I adjusted red and blue luminance levels only (except for the green level at 40 IRE due to an anomalous reading at that IRE level) in order to adjust the greyscale. I did not adjust or report adjustments to the CMS, which would include adjustments to the saturation and tint of each individual primary and secondary color. The greyscale adjustments are for setting your white point and your black levels only. They are not intended to be adjustments to the color (saturation) and tint of the primary and secondary colors that can be made in the CMS.

Quote:


You could try going cooler on the color temperature to reduce the yellowing, or shifting the tint more toward red than green. Or change the green and yellow levels in color management.

You could try that, but most professional calibrators will probably suggest that you may do more harm than good if you try adjusting a CMS by eye alone. Our eyes are terrible at "calibrating" without reference to a known and accepted standard. This is partly because our eyes adapt very quickly to the changed colors and soon accept them as "normal." That's why professionals use a known, objective standard and meters to read output by your television panel. A calibrated meter that is working will report consistent results; your eyes will not.

Most of the responses I've read from professional calibrators in the video calibration forum suggest leaving the CMS alone unless you have a good colorimeter and you really know what you're doing. I haven't touched mine yet.

Quote:


At this point you are probably dealing with the differences between one television and another (or input signal characteristices and another) so you will have to tweak your settings to work with your hardware, room environment, input source and personal preferences.

Yes indeed. I would add that when adjusting the greyscale you are also probably dealing with variance among individual TV panels, even when comparing two TVs of the same make and model, as well as differences in room lighting conditions and surrounding color environments.

Also, TV panels tend to "drift," such that they need re-calibrating every few months or so, depending on usage.

Quote:


Have you tried the picture wizard? that may be a good way to achieve the final settings for tint and color temperature that you like.

I've never tried it, but it's probably an improvement over the out of the box settings.

I suggest anyone who truly wants to get a better picture out of their set at least do some reading in the video calibration forum at AVS. There are several sticky threads in there that will give you a good idea of the basics of greyscale calibration and color management and how they affect the quality of the picture you perceive. It's pretty eye-opening.

Anyone who doesn't care to go to that trouble can input your settings or mine, or some combination of them, and take their chances at improving their picture over the stock settings. The results are likely to vary a good bit for each poster. Without a meter and software to go with it, however, don't kid yourself that what you are doing is "calibrating." At best, you are guessing by using someone else's readings and inputs.

You're right that it's easy to get caught up in calibrating and adjusting and to forget to enjoy the program material you're watching.
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post #320 of 325 Old 03-16-2011, 08:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MovieDad View Post

no, as far as I know it does not matter which IRE point the picutre menu is left on when you close it

That's correct. Whatever you leave it on will come up as the default first adjustment the next time you pull up the IRE settings. I believe it begins with the 100 IRE level the first time you pull it up. After that, it doesn't matter what you leave it on.
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post #321 of 325 Old 03-16-2011, 11:30 AM
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Used moviedad on my 42pj550 and they look pretty good thank u moviedad for the settings and also my blu-ray player is lg's bd550c.
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post #322 of 325 Old 03-17-2011, 05:46 PM
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If I connect my BD player to my LG 42PJ350 via HDMI can I then connect the TV to an AVR via the Digital Audio Output and have both TV sound and sound from the BF player passed to the AVR?

Will the 42PJ350 output sound that originated from an HDMI input or only sound that originated from its internal tuner/QAM/OTA HD etc???

BD -> TV -> AVR?
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post #323 of 325 Old 04-17-2011, 04:01 PM
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has anyone seen the XXPT350 (2011)? what are the main improvements over this 2010 model?
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post #324 of 325 Old 06-06-2011, 01:58 PM
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has anyone seen the XXPT350 (2011)? what are the main improvements over this 2010 model?
According to HD Guru, "These entry level models are virtually unchanged from the 2010 PJ350 series." More info here:

http://hdguru.com/lgs-plasma-tv-pric...223/#more-4223
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post #325 of 325 Old 06-21-2011, 02:20 AM
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From what I know, at least for the E.U. models, the new PT series are using the (almost) "new" Saturn 7 processor, instead of the Saturn 6 of the PJ series. The Saturn 7 was used on some medium-range LG LCD 2010 models, and it should be a bit better of the 6 version.

ps. the "FILM mode" setting is working (and it is enabled) only with Interlaced sources, and it should be always set to ON. It detects the "film" flags, and so the video-processing will do the right deinterlacing. You should see the differences (ON vs OFF) at the end of a movie (from an interlaced TV channel), when are scrolling the final titles with small characters.
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