Official Panasonic 2011 TC-PxxST30 Thread [No Price Talk] - Page 148 - AVS Forum
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post #4411 of 8449 Old 09-20-2011, 02:32 PM
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Hello, Just today I was sitting here in the room quietly, and was hearing a buzz. My windows was open in the room and I thought it was one of those tree bugs. So I closed the window... still heard the buzz.

I then thought it was a loud humming computer fan (dusty etc.) it was not. So I stuck my ear to the back of my panel, and it was in fact coming from the ST30 itself.

I don't have any brightness settings jacked... more closer to 'movie' settings if anything. I then proceeded to run the 'burn in image' off the SD card. It seems that BRIGHT colors make the buzz louder.

White / Bright Red / Bright Green

Lower level colors like Black / Gray, hardly any buzz. Is this maybe the TV has been on for a long time, and it is warm? Or would this be a defective issue with the panel ?

Let me know your thoughts... thank you
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post #4412 of 8449 Old 09-20-2011, 02:41 PM
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Home Direct brought it inside, helped me get it on the stand, and made sure it turned on. I gave him a $10 spot because it was all the cash I had in the house, and he seemed grateful.

No tilt indicators, or anything of the sort on the box, but so far so good. All I've done so far is run through the initial setup, and take a quick look at Megamind on HBO after putting the set in Cinema mode. Without any tweaking the set already looks FANTASTIC! I'm super stoked! I'm just so torn on running these damn slides or not, I just can't envision not being able to use my new TV for 100 hours, especially with it already looking so darn good. Do you guys think I'll be good just executing responsible viewing for the first 100 hours? No games, no 4:3 content, brightness turned down, limit logos, etc?

Also, how can I tell what build date my panel is?

Thanks guys!
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post #4413 of 8449 Old 09-20-2011, 03:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by unibombz View Post

Hello, Just today I was sitting here in the room quietly, and was hearing a buzz. My windows was open in the room and I thought it was one of those tree bugs. So I closed the window... still heard the buzz.

I then thought it was a loud humming computer fan (dusty etc.) it was not. So I stuck my ear to the back of my panel, and it was in fact coming from the ST30 itself.

I don't have any brightness settings jacked... more closer to 'movie' settings if anything. I then proceeded to run the 'burn in image' off the SD card. It seems that BRIGHT colors make the buzz louder.

White / Bright Red / Bright Green

Lower level colors like Black / Gray, hardly any buzz. Is this maybe the TV has been on for a long time, and it is warm? Or would this be a defective issue with the panel ?

Let me know your thoughts... thank you


Plasmas buzz, it always will because electricity exciting phosphors does that, however after panel prep on normal viewing settings it should be less noticeable especially when watching content at normal volume levels which will probably drown it out.
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post #4414 of 8449 Old 09-20-2011, 03:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nekro View Post

Home Direct brought it inside, helped me get it on the stand, and made sure it turned on. I gave him a $10 spot because it was all the cash I had in the house, and he seemed grateful.

No tilt indicators, or anything of the sort on the box, but so far so good. All I've done so far is run through the initial setup, and take a quick look at Megamind on HBO after putting the set in Cinema mode. Without any tweaking the set already looks FANTASTIC! I'm super stoked! I'm just so torn on running these damn slides or not, I just can't envision not being able to use my new TV for 100 hours, especially with it already looking so darn good. Do you guys think I'll be good just executing responsible viewing for the first 100 hours? No games, no 4:3 content, brightness turned down, limit logos, etc?

Also, how can I tell what build date my panel is?

Thanks guys!

The build date could be found on a sticker attached to the back of the plasma I believe that s/n should be starting at the 1200 mark and up for Aug build. "s/n xx1200xxxx" I am in the same boat as you with running the slides (break in) With Dnice method you have to start the break in right away for the first 100 hours in order to apply his picture setting. I really dont think I could do this. I'm planning on just been extra careful the first 100 hours. I am coming from a 2005 Sony plasma and I know even out of the box the ST30 will blow me away.
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post #4415 of 8449 Old 09-20-2011, 03:22 PM
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Originally Posted by dazz87 View Post

The build date could be found on a sticker attached to the back of the plasma I believe that s/n should be starting at the 1200 mark and up for Aug build. "s/n xx1200xxxx" I am in the same boat as you with running the slides (break in) With Dnice method you have to start the break in right away for the first 100 hours in order to apply his picture setting. I really dont think I could do this. I'm planning on just been extra careful the first 100 hours. I am coming from a 2005 Sony plasma and I know even out of the box the ST30 will blow me away.

Darn, my serial is xx1146xxxx! Ah well, here's to hoping I see no FBr, but if I do I know what to do thanks to this forum.

I wasn't going to run the slides, but after reading D-Nice's thread, I'm thinking twice now. If I start tonight, and go non-stop the set would be ready to go in time for NFL on Sunday. Does anyone know if it's ok to run that 100 hours of slides non-stop? Dangit, I wish we knew definitively if this was worth it or not!

Also, should I update the firmware right away if there is a new version available?
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post #4416 of 8449 Old 09-20-2011, 03:43 PM
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Spending a lot of time with my 60st30. So far cant say i see any fbr but even in the videos posted in this thread i cant see it. Might just make a service call for the heck of it so i know it wont be a problem. I looked for it with the video posted a few pages back. Maybe now I should try with real world content? I have Dark Knight, what parts of it should I be keeping an eye on?
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post #4417 of 8449 Old 09-20-2011, 03:48 PM
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D-Nice's break-in procedure seems to be a sort of religion around here, and he himself has said things along the lines of, if you've watched your new TV for a few dozens hours, don't even bother to run the slides or use his settings. Let me try a common sense explanation for what's going on here.

D-Nice calibrated his TV after running his recommended break-in procedure. If you want your TV to look exactly like his did immediately after you enter his recommended calibration settings (with the modest caveat that every screen is going to look a smidgen different), you should follow his instructions for break-in before calibration. But as soon as you start viewing other content post break-in and calibration, your TV will begin to subtly deviate from his, and from every other TV out there. That, plus variation in individual screens, is why anyone who's really neurotic should conduct an individual professional calibration and successive ones over time.

D-Nice's break-in procedure torches the pixels, as a way of achieving maximum pixel aging in a minimum amount of time (100 hours). I'm not technically savvy enough to know whether this is a bad idea, i.e. whether pixels are substantially more vulnerable in the first 100 hours than they are later. If they are, then while D-Nice's procedure won't result in IR/burn-in, it will result in uniform negative effects on the pixels, e.g. possibly reduced brightness.

Manufacturer recommendations, which are to use the TV with non-Vivid, dialed back settings for the first 100 or even 1000 hours, suggest that the pixels are indeed more vulnerable initially (and if they're more vulnerable to burn-in, by definition they're also vulnerable to more uniform negative effects via the prep slides). Takings those recommendations at face value suggests that the panel prep most folks are doing might not be such a good idea. But it's possible those manufacturer recommendations are outdated.

For what it's worth, notwithstanding the above, I decided the follow the prep routine most other folks here have. I figure given how many folks here are following it, and given the evident experience of D-Nice and others, the odds that I'm doing significant damage to my new set are low. And on the plus side, I get a calibration I almost certainly wouldn't be able to achieve on my own, especially since I'm not inclined to invest the funds for an individual professional calibration.

But all that still leaves me curious: how much more vulnerable are pixels to damage in the first 100 hundred hours, and therefore how bad an idea is it to torch them during that period, as so many of us are doing? That's not a question to which I've come across a compelling answer here yet, although I have to imagine the expertise is out there on this forum.

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post #4418 of 8449 Old 09-20-2011, 04:06 PM
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The problematic part is uneven wear. Evenly wearing all the pixels on torch mode is no problem. These TVs are built to be used out of the box, and no damage should occur if a person uses it right away. If you feel the need to break in the set, then run the slides for 100+ hours. If you want to use D-Nice's settings, then you should follow his preparation procedure.
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post #4419 of 8449 Old 09-20-2011, 04:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nekro View Post

Darn, my serial is xx1146xxxx! Ah well, here's to hoping I see no FBr, but if I do I know what to do thanks to this forum.

Looks like I am going to also not get a Aug build.... We order what a day apart from amazon...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fahrenheit85 View Post

Spending a lot of time with my 60st30. So far cant say i see any fbr but even in the videos posted in this thread i cant see it. Might just make a service call for the heck of it so i know it wont be a problem. I looked for it with the video posted a few pages back. Maybe now I should try with real world content? I have Dark Knight, what parts of it should I be keeping an eye on?

What I heard that its harder to see fbr on the ST30 vs. seeing it on the GT and VT.
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post #4420 of 8449 Old 09-20-2011, 04:30 PM
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Well, I'm the end of my rope with Panasonic. Despite my attempts to reason with them in regard to my now constant problem of illuminated edge lines with HD Size 2 and brightness above 54, they are insisting that the set is in "normal operating condition" and will not discuss the matter further. Today, in order, I spoke to a "technical manager" and another "manager" and they both parroted the company line, saying that their engineers had made their decision and would not reconsider it. I did note to both that if this "normal" condition had appeared on the new sets of many buyers, the return rate would be record-setting. When I mentioned the possibility of my contacting my state AG's Consumer division, they each, as though reading from a script, said something like "if your going to seek legal representation, I have to terminate this call and hand this matter to our legal division". I tried to explain to one of these clods that merely making contact with such an office met no definition of "legal representation" that I was aware of (maybe they'll sue me?). This, alas, led to a rereading of the canned response. Again, to all of my fellow ST30 owners without any significant problems, I hope that your sets remain that way. If not, good luck dealing with this company. In the meantime, does anyone want a permanently overscanned 50ST30 cheap?
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post #4421 of 8449 Old 09-20-2011, 04:34 PM
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Has anyone with an ST30 tried out the Viera Remote for iOS devices?

I'm mostly interested in whether or not the app requires a handshake with the TV the way the Sony iOS remotes do. The reason I ask is because I'm trying to determine the feasibility of uncovering the IP control protocol. Since the ST30 line doesn't have an RS-232 port, I'm hoping I can use IP to control the display with my Crestron controller.

If anyone has any first hand experience with the Viera Remote, I'd really appreciate it, or even better if someone has managed to control their ST30 via IP.

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post #4422 of 8449 Old 09-20-2011, 05:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nekro View Post

Darn, my serial is xx1146xxxx! Ah well, here's to hoping I see no FBr, but if I do I know what to do thanks to this forum.

I wasn't going to run the slides, but after reading D-Nice's thread, I'm thinking twice now. If I start tonight, and go non-stop the set would be ready to go in time for NFL on Sunday. Does anyone know if it's ok to run that 100 hours of slides non-stop? Dangit, I wish we knew definitively if this was worth it or not!

Also, should I update the firmware right away if there is a new version available?

yes you can run them 100 hours straight, that seems to be what is recommended to get the best wearing.
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post #4423 of 8449 Old 09-20-2011, 05:50 PM
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Originally Posted by bdraw View Post

...If anyone has any first hand experience with the Viera Remote, I'd really appreciate it, or even better if someone has managed to control their ST30 via IP.

I've got the viera (and the bluray) app on my iPhone and on an iPad. Both work great but I don't really need them since my Directv remote controls everything beautifully. The iOS app is good for entering all the user id info for the viera tv apps like twitter/pandora etc.

They are free so just download them and try it. They work via wifi and the tv will just pop up on the app. Very easy.
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post #4424 of 8449 Old 09-20-2011, 05:59 PM
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Originally Posted by bdraw View Post

Has anyone with an ST30 tried out the Viera Remote for iOS devices?

I'm mostly interested in whether or not the app requires a handshake with the TV the way the Sony iOS remotes do. The reason I ask is because I'm trying to determine the feasibility of uncovering the IP control protocol. Since the ST30 line doesn't have an RS-232 port, I'm hoping I can use IP to control the display with my Crestron controller.

If anyone has any first hand experience with the Viera Remote, I'd really appreciate it, or even better if someone has managed to control their ST30 via IP.

Yup. Works awesome on the app. I use it to control some of the functions but there are a couple of things I needed the tv remote for. You will see. But yes, the app works pretty well.
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post #4425 of 8449 Old 09-20-2011, 05:59 PM
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A couple of other questions, if I do experience FBr, would the 100hr slide break-in period be wasted if I have to get the board replaced or the set patched? That may be a stupid question, but waned to be sure.

Should I upgrade the firmware before beginning slides, would that make any difference?
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post #4426 of 8449 Old 09-20-2011, 06:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nekro View Post

A couple of other questions, if I do experience FBr, would the 100hr slide break-in period be wasted if I have to get the board replaced or the set patched? That may be a stupid question, but waned to be sure.

Should I upgrade the firmware before beginning slides, would that make any difference?

As long as you don't get a replacement set the aging that occurs with the slides will be unaffected by a patch or a-board swap. The only thing that will be gone is the settings which you can just punch back in. A firmware update before running slides won't effect anything.
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post #4427 of 8449 Old 09-20-2011, 06:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dackz View Post

Yup. Works awesome on the app. I use it to control some of the functions but there are a couple of things I needed the tv remote for. You will see. But yes, the app works pretty well.

When you first set it up, did you have to pair the remote to the TV, or did it just discover it and start working? I don't suppose you know how to do a packet capture? If so, I'd like to analyze it so I can try to determine the IP control protocol.

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post #4428 of 8449 Old 09-20-2011, 07:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Rich_SC View Post

They are free so just download them and try it. They work via wifi and the tv will just pop up on the app. Very easy.

Thanks, but I haven't bought the TV yet. I'm trying to verify that I can reverse engineer the IP protocol the Viera remote app uses before I pull the trigger.

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post #4429 of 8449 Old 09-20-2011, 08:28 PM
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Originally Posted by bdraw View Post

When you first set it up, did you have to pair the remote to the TV, or did it just discover it and start working? I don't suppose you know how to do a packet capture? If so, I'd like to analyze it so I can try to determine the IP control protocol.

It just found it on the app and started working right away.

I have no idea what a packet capture is though. I do know alot of the network IP stuff shows up on the tv under one of the settings in the menu functions?? I have my tv directly wired into the router though, since the box is all of about 2 feet from it.
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post #4430 of 8449 Old 09-20-2011, 10:09 PM
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Took back my 65st30 cuz the speakers cracked & popped so bad it became inaudible (set was only 2 weeks old). I wanted to get the 60" because where the t.v is going to be located a 65" will not fit. Best Buy said that the 60" is no longer available in their system and they can't get that set any more. Has anyone heard of Panasonic discontinuing the 60ST30???
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post #4431 of 8449 Old 09-20-2011, 10:41 PM
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Originally Posted by niccolo View Post

Yeah, I'm guessing it won't be noticeable with content, unless I have some sort of very unusual scene with fairly even gray tone displayed. I raised it out of concern that it might be a defect and indicate a problem with either the phosphors or the board, and perhaps get worse over time. It seems a bit strange, though, I can't really explain why it would be there in the first place.

Finished burn in, dialed in D-Nice's settings, and watched some Planet Earth. Overall, extremely happy with this TV, much more so than the Sharp Quattron panel I had beforewhich had really unnatural colors, even tweaked, and serious clouding. The one caveat is that the darker upper half, lighter lower half with a dividing line through the middle is visible in contexts like cloud scenes, though of course I'm looking for it now. It's subtle, now I'm debating whether to exchange as defective.

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post #4432 of 8449 Old 09-20-2011, 10:47 PM
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Originally Posted by niccolo View Post

Finished burn in, dialed in D-Nice's settings, and watched some Planet Earth. Overall, extremely happy with this TV, much more so than the Sharp Quattron panel I had beforewhich had really unnatural colors, even tweaked, and serious clouding. The one caveat is that the darker upper half, lighter lower half with a dividing line through the middle is visible in contexts like cloud scenes, though of course I'm looking for it now. It's subtle, now I'm debating whether to exchange as defective.

Also, my unit was manufactured in May 2011, does that mean I need to update firmware or be worried about FBR?

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post #4433 of 8449 Old 09-21-2011, 03:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Norske View Post

Took back my 65st30 cuz the speakers cracked & popped so bad it became inaudible (set was only 2 weeks old). I wanted to get the 60" because where the t.v is going to be located a 65" will not fit. Best Buy said that the 60" is no longer available in their system and they can't get that set any more. Has anyone heard of Panasonic discontinuing the 60ST30???

It's available on their website, so they can get it. You can go to their website, look for the tv and punch in your zip code to do a locate on it. My store says 3 to 5 days out. So they just have to order it. If I can see it they can.

Make sure you don't crank the speakers with the bass turned up. At the slightest hint of distortion start turning down the bass.
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post #4434 of 8449 Old 09-21-2011, 04:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by niccolo View Post

Also, my unit was manufactured in May 2011, does that mean I need to update firmware or be worried about FBR?

If it's an August build then it's been fixed. So you should look for it and have it fixed if you see it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by niccolo View Post

Finished burn in, dialed in D-Nice's settings, and watched some Planet Earth. Overall, extremely happy with this TV, much more so than the Sharp Quattron panel I had beforewhich had really unnatural colors, even tweaked, and serious clouding. The one caveat is that the darker upper half, lighter lower half with a dividing line through the middle is visible in contexts like cloud scenes, though of course I'm looking for it now. It's subtle, now I'm debating whether to exchange as defective.

It should have a uniform panel, so not worth keeping.
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post #4435 of 8449 Old 09-21-2011, 06:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Dackz View Post

It just found it on the app and started working right away.

I have no idea what a packet capture is though. I do know alot of the network IP stuff shows up on the tv under one of the settings in the menu functions?? I have my tv directly wired into the router though, since the box is all of about 2 feet from it.

Thanks so much for the information. If it just works without a handshake I should be able to determine the IP control protocol. I guess I'll just bit the bullet and buy the TV and find out the hard way.

Thanks!

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post #4436 of 8449 Old 09-21-2011, 06:37 AM
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I just picked up a 60st30 Yesterday from Bestbuy on a Price Error. Manufactured in June. So far I couldn't be happier the set looks amazing and I haven't noticed any FBr issues. Definitely a nice step up from my old 42" Samsung.
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post #4437 of 8449 Old 09-21-2011, 08:47 AM
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Hey guys,

So I opted to run the slides, so hopefully I can get through the 100 hours without cracking, but I noticed a potential problem.

I can very faintly see a perfectly straight vertical line running down the set about 6 inches from the left edge of the panel, which is bluish-white in color. It's most prominent on the blue tinted slides, and to a lesser extent the grey tinted slides, but I cannot see it at all on red/green slides so far that I can tell.

Like I said, it's very faint, but noticeably defined when you are up close, and up to 6ft away if you are looking for it. Also, I only noticed it after I killed all the lights in the house, and started to inspect the panel more closely.

Has anyone ever seen anything like this before? Is this something to be concerned about? I cannot say for sure whether it would be visible in normal viewing circumstances, but I only watched Megamind on HBO for about 10 minutes before shutting off the set in preparation of running the slides. So I didn't notice anything during that time, nor when I was in the menu system.

I'm mainly worried that after running through this 100 hours, I will see this line, and have to do this all over again if a return comes into play. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
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post #4438 of 8449 Old 09-21-2011, 09:03 AM
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Maybe it's image retention from the edge of the menu screen? If so, this is no issue. If not, then this sounds like a problem. Wait for the 100 hours to end, watch some regular content, and see if it's faded/gone.
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post #4439 of 8449 Old 09-21-2011, 09:17 AM
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Maybe it's image retention from the edge of the menu screen? If so, this is no issue. If not, then this sounds like a problem. Wait for the 100 hours to end, watch some regular content, and see if it's faded/gone.

This is my plan. If I cannot detect during normal viewing, but know it's still there, would you call a tech out?

tfoltz, did you run the slides, or just jump right in?
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post #4440 of 8449 Old 09-21-2011, 09:47 AM
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This is my plan. If I cannot detect during normal viewing, but know it's still there, would you call a tech out?

tfoltz, did you run the slides, or just jump right in?

I ran slides for a continuous 100 hours on my first set, and ran slides in between movies/TV/video games on my second set.

If you are sure there is a line on your TV on some content, and it's not just image retention, then I would return the TV and get a new one. But you need to be sure that it's not image retention.
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