I posted my calibrated settings earlier, please refer to that post. I have no done some more calibrating in 1366*768 native mode from an HTPC. Altough this mode is seriously off at start, it actually becomes even better than 720p/1080p modes once it is calibrated.
I stated earliert that you should avoid expanding levels becasue of gamma change. Well, I think i need to adjust that. The TV seem to automatically expand levels anyway in 720p and 1080p, so it actually works best with expanded levels in native (1366*768) too, but you have to adjust brigthness and contrast accordingly. I find that you can go no higher than 75 i contrast or the gamma starts to dip at 80IRE. This is no biggie because the picture is really bright at contrast 75 (and gamma -1) if you feed the tv expanded (0 - 255) levels. Expanding the levels do, unfortunately, introduce some banding, but this is hardly noticeable.
You can get better gamma and avoid banding if you feed the tv 16 - 235. However, this will reduce peak luminace by roughly 30%. So it is a trade-off.
Now, using color correction through pixel shaders in MPC-HC
I was able to reduce the Delta E on red to 0.9, Green to 3.3 and blue 3.7. The secondaries were excellent as well: yellow 0.8, cyan 2.5 and magenta 1.2
Delta E below 5 is good, below 3 is almost impossible to spot the difference if you dont compare side by side with another TV set, and below 1 is so little deviance that our eyes simply cannot tell.
This means that the color reproduction on this set, once properly calibrated by an external CMS which in this case is done on the HTPC, is simply stunning.
The greyscale will also have Delta E around 2-4 across the entire scale. It is close to perfect apart from a slight nonlinearty of blue and red that makes blue a little to high in the lower and higher part, and red (in contrast) a little to high in the middle part.
The PQ is simply stunning in this mode. 1080p that is dowsized through simple bilinear scaling (which is the standard if you dont change anything in EVR in windows 7) does not remove much detail at all and without a native 1080p set next to it noone will be able to spot the diffrerence without having their nose touching the screen. (the tvs interal scaler from 1080p works equally well!)
To be blunt, on the viewing distance where 1080p resolution of the display would matter, the TV is to noisy too look at (plasma tend to be) so there is really nothing to gain from a higher resolution... Further, compared to a 1080p LCD this TV will show a LOT more detail because of better motion resolution.
Those LCD or LCD-LED sets (if not the soap-opera effect of IFC are added which makes me wanna throw up) will only give you about 400 lines of resolution when things are moving (which is the whole point of movies...) while this set retains details during movements.
However there are two downsides of this set.
First, the out-of-box color and greyscale is not very good at all. If you ar not going to calibrate you will be MUCH better of with a lower Panasonic plasma that are fairly accurate out-of-box. However, once calibrated this set will be even better than even a high-end panasonic (out-of-box).
The second dowside is that 24p does not work very well at all. I have tried it a lot but it gives some weird kind of judder that i just cant stand. This is why i use the set at 60hz which leaves us with the normal, tolerable, 3:2 judder we are all used to.
So for those that don't mind a little 3:2 judder (24p@60hz) and can get their hands on a colorimeter, this TV is simply fantastic. However, i cannot recommend it to people who know nothing about calibration because there are so many settings that can seriously mess you PQ up on this set, and you need to know where to look for it to get it right. You can get a fairly good PQ by eye-balling it using a disc with calibration patterns. But to get it really good you need a colorimeter.