vizio VP322 no power; caps already replaced - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 17 Old 05-05-2011, 05:44 AM - Thread Starter
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Few threads on this already, and almost all faults were the caps. I have replaced caps on this power board and still no power to TV. Yes I used correct values, and yes proper polarity installed.

One thing I have noticed in recent discussions were the values people used. I did do the (2) 3300uF, and (1) 1000uF. My others were 470uF, other people were saying there is more than (1) 1000uF. Are there different revs for this model? Should I be looking into a relay issue? No clicking heard, No vizio light.

Thoughts/Suggestions....
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post #2 of 17 Old 09-29-2011, 07:16 PM
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Have same problem I do have 5v at connector.
Vizio light is amber and turns white when turned on,but no back light or picture.
All caps have been either changed or checked w/ ESR meter.
Thought I'd check if this has been repaired.
Thanks
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post #3 of 17 Old 10-25-2011, 10:09 AM - Thread Starter
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Sorry its been soo long.
Yes, I ordered replacement power PCB online. Didnt have time to chase down the issue. Believe I used shopjimmy.

Looking back, im thinking possible relay failure?
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post #4 of 17 Old 10-25-2011, 02:07 PM
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Thanks for the reply,I have relay click and all the caps have been replaced.
Just dont have the 12v or the 16.5v.
Jimmys all out...
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post #5 of 17 Old 10-13-2012, 09:52 PM
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i wish I had a service manual... I have replaced the typical 9 suspect caps. I also have C801 bulging. It's one of the two blue plastic cased caps. I can't get a value on it...says 33n J 2000v Pilkor MWKP and some other stuff. The J seems to indicate 5% tolerance. MKWP the temp rating...I'm guessing 33n is the value...33 nano farads? I've looked over world products .com and the manufacture site... It's crazy. I feel like the high voltage is good and the three filter caps are ok...I'm hoping to I'd and replace this cap I've described and get he set working again. Thoughts?
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post #6 of 17 Old 10-14-2012, 09:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by macon View Post

i wish I had a service manual... I have replaced the typical 9 suspect caps. I also have C801 bulging. It's one of the two blue plastic cased caps. I can't get a value on it...says 33n J 2000v Pilkor MWKP and some other stuff. The J seems to indicate 5% tolerance. MKWP the temp rating...I'm guessing 33n is the value...33 nano farads? I've looked over world products .com and the manufacture site... It's crazy. I feel like the high voltage is good and the three filter caps are ok...I'm hoping to I'd and replace this cap I've described and get he set working again. Thoughts?

You can download the Service Manual here:

http://elektrotanya.com/vizio_vp322_hdtv10a_pdp-tv_sm.pdf/download.html
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post #7 of 17 Old 10-14-2012, 06:30 PM
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I appreciate it...this document is more a trouble shooting chart. Helpful, but i need the circuit diagram and parts list. I need to spend some time familiarizing myself with the different power supplies, what they supply and they are activated. I have years of experiece repairing car audio and a few years on the road doing initial evaluations on good old projector sets in folks homes....these units seem pretty straight forward and have plenty of voltages - just when they are supposed to be present and what circuits supplies them are not easy for me to follow. Anyway thanks for the link.
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post #8 of 17 Old 10-15-2012, 01:03 PM
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Originally Posted by iBrad View Post

You can download the Service Manual here:
http://elektrotanya.com/vizio_vp322_hdtv10a_pdp-tv_sm.pdf/download.html



Anyway to get the service manual without all the BS?
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post #9 of 17 Old 10-15-2012, 05:44 PM
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That document, which is NOT A COMPLETE, service manual is available if you google for it. It is a 24 page trouble shooting flow chart. I'm a veteran electronics bench tech looking for the schematics. I guess it's super secret info. It sure seems difficult to get ahold of... I noticed LG on the power supply board. Really is full of cheap components. Oh we'll...
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post #10 of 17 Old 11-04-2012, 10:21 AM
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If anyone has a power supply board and C801 (blue boxed shaped) and marked on the board looks good and the have a DMM that reads capacitance or a similar device that can read the value of a cap. If you would take the time to unsolder it and let me know the value I'd be able to save a lot of money. I'm trying to reach out to the manufacturer of the device and Visio - but my emails go seeming unnoticed. It's a busy world. I bought an EL 321 ? 250$ Visio since money is really tight right now AFTER trying an Element 31.5 "....I guess I'm let down that my 322 was but with such cheap components - but man I miss my plasma !! Stay away from Element (Polaroid?) sets - save the extra 50$ for the 32" Visio. Anyway any help would be really appreciated. Btw - remember to vote Tuesday !!
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post #11 of 17 Old 11-05-2012, 09:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by macon View Post

If anyone has a power supply board and C801 (blue boxed shaped) and marked on the board looks good and the have a DMM that reads capacitance or a similar device that can read the value of a cap. If you would take the time to unsolder it and let me know the value I'd be able to save a lot of money. I'm trying to reach out to the manufacturer of the device and Visio - but my emails go seeming unnoticed. It's a busy world. I bought an EL 321 ? 250$ Visio since money is really tight right now AFTER trying an Element 31.5 "....I guess I'm let down that my 322 was but with such cheap components - but man I miss my plasma !! Stay away from Element (Polaroid?) sets - save the extra 50$ for the 32" Visio. Anyway any help would be really appreciated. Btw - remember to vote Tuesday !!



I check C801 on my board and it reads 34.2NF.
Sounds like you have the same problem as I do.
Amber Visio light cahnges to white on power button pressed but No picture.
Let me know if you find anything,thanks......
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post #12 of 17 Old 11-06-2012, 11:07 AM
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Thanks.... That value makes sense... I think the cap has 33n or something close printed on it. Yes - same problem. After I replace that cap I'm going to look for voltages marked on the pins of the connectors. I suspect I'm missing one of the 5 v or 12 v inputs to the power supply board to allow it to turn on...anyway thanks for taking the time to verify that cap. Should be able to find a replacement cap from Digikey. I'll scour the manual I have and post any luck getting this thing going.
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post #13 of 17 Old 11-06-2012, 11:42 AM
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Yes mine is marked 33n so a reading of 34 nf is about right.
Would like to get this thing running as it has been siting around for awhile.
If I remember I did have the 5V and 12V,will have to check again.
Keep me posted Macon Thanks.....
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post #14 of 17 Old 11-08-2012, 07:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hdman97 View Post

Yes mine is marked 33n so a reading of 34 nf is about right.
Would like to get this thing running as it has been siting around for awhile.
If I remember I did have the 5V and 12V,will have to check again.
Keep me posted Macon Thanks.....

Well I found a great replacement from Mouser for 7$ shipped. When it arrives the fun begins. Thanks again for taking the time for verifying the value.
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post #15 of 17 Old 11-14-2012, 05:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hdman97 View Post

Yes mine is marked 33n so a reading of 34 nf is about right.
Would like to get this thing running as it has been siting around for awhile.
If I remember I did have the 5V and 12V,will have to check again.
Keep me posted Macon Thanks.....

Ok - good news for me C801 was the bad component. I replaced the "typical" 10 or so caps mostly located around P813 for the voltage regulator and bridge rectifier mounted nearby that come as a pack off E-bay which made that an easy buy. The cap you helped me with (C801) was indeed a 0.033 uF Pilkor cap. I used a Mouser Kemet Film Capacitor 2000 V 33nF (0.033uF) 5% - it has the same 22.5mm pin sizing and is even blue in color. Replaced it and she popped right on. I appreciate it...now to remember how it goes back together. lol.
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post #16 of 17 Old 11-14-2012, 06:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by macon View Post

Ok - good news for me C801 was the bad component. I replaced the "typical" 10 or so caps mostly located around P813 for the voltage regulator and bridge rectifier mounted nearby that come as a pack off E-bay which made that an easy buy. The cap you helped me with (C801) was indeed a 0.033 uF Pilkor cap. I used a Mouser Kemet Film Capacitor 2000 V 33nF (0.033uF) 5% - it has the same 22.5mm pin sizing and is even blue in color. Replaced it and she popped right on. I appreciate it...now to remember how it goes back together. lol.


Good job! glad to hear you got it fixed.
Do you remember what your voltage reading were,and on which pins?
I had mine up for a short time and then it failed again
I think I may have a bad cap in there yet .Thanks
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post #17 of 17 Old 11-15-2012, 11:39 AM
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I just went by voltages on pins listed on board... 5 volt and 12 volts all seemed ok. My first thought if it didn't power back was checking the trio of filter caps that are all installed together at the high voltage (I think?) part of the p/s board. I've had it on/off several times and so far, so good. I hope it lasts. I did s visual check on about every electrolytic cap on the p/s board fwiw. Gave my son the Vizio 321 LCD I got to replace the 322... Ill never get it back.
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